These two hammers are on Craigslist not too far from me. I have a Hoe-Pac but have zero experience with hammers. Can I use the same plumbing for the hammer as a Hoe-Pac? I suppose it would depend on the flow and pressure requirements. Based on a small picture do you think these would be worth having a look at? What can you tell from an inspection as to condition? Do you need to see it work? Would one of these work on my Case 135, mostly for concrete, some rock? Hydraulic hammer for 75-120 size excavator. Make a great Post pounder Can deliver. $1,800.00 ea. OBO or trade?
It is a worry that they are on their side, if they have been like this for a while, it is likely that the seals have flat spots. Try and find out what brand and model they are and then get quotes for rebuilding them. No a visual inspection won't tell you much, about all you can do is grab the tool and move it to see how much wear is in the tool bushing but the only real way to know the condition is to run them for a while. They may be a bit small for your ex but should work alright, you may have to get the side plates adapted to fit your machine, which is not that difficult.
Talked to the fellow. They haven't been used for 3 years since he bought them. He is supposed to send me model numbers etc.
When I looked at iron Planet and Richie Bros all the hammers up for auction were stored on their side on pallets. This is not good for them?
An $1800 hammer that fits a 120 size machine that hasn't been used in 3 years = a VERY large rebuild bill... Buy with caution.:cool2
Any ideas on rebuild costs? Rough estimate?
The orange one in the first post is an NPK H4XL which is rated for 12-19,000lb machines. Too small. Mine is 30,000lbs. I will pass. Price seems right though. Richie Bros sold these 1st sold for $2750 US 2nd sold for $4000 US.
The blue one in your pic looks like the NPK 2 which I have on my CAT E70B. Its a great little hammer and matches good to my machine. I'm not shure the weight of your machine. But I've seen this hammer on a backhoe before.
For the size hammer and depending on local parts and labor prices, you could easily reach the $5K or more range to rebuild one.
$5k = Wow! So buying without seeing one operate is a big risk. Thanks for the replies.
Yeah, just do your homework and check the hammer out throughly - including operating it. Hammers are a necessary evil better rented than owned, if rental fits in your operation. Some folks need to own one for many reasons, me personally I prefer to rent when I need one and I hate renting anything.
Do you rent one to fit your machine or rent a machine with hammer?
The few times I have needed one, I rented a machine with a hammer and operator. If it breaks while on the job, pun intended, then they get to deal with it. For the work I have done, I didn't use a hammer very often except for one project. It was a big (for me anyway) 150K CY cobble/boulder excavation and as we would dig and remove the boulders, we would stack them to the side until there was a big enough pile. Then hire in a Kobelco 210 with NPK IIRC hammer on it for a few days to reduce the pile. This process went on many, many times. On the demo jobs I have done (residential and commercial, no industrial), I never ran across any concrete that couldn't be handled in different ways. My method of choice for removing a concrete slab 4-8" deep is to saw cut it into squares. The thicker the concrete, the smaller the squares. Use the 420, 334 or 315 to pick the squares up and place in a dumpster or truck. Actually the old Gradall forklift is pretty good at this once you get the first piece out. Did several slabs and commercial driveways this way. No hammering, much quicker and you can re-use the slabs if you want to. So the point of my rambling is that my philosophy works for what I do. You may have different ideas/needs.
Hammers take a ton of abuse. I have a Stanley that has worked for 20 years and only needed a rebuild one time. It is always stored on it's side. That being said DO NOT BUY one unless you work it hard to see the condition. Rebuild cost's can be more than what you buy it for. Rent a machine with the breaker and let the rented machine take the abuse if you don't need one all the time.
we are located in seoul aouth korea and we are producing hammer breaker with high quality furukawa type and soosan type . BRAND : STORM Made in Korea
You really cant use the price paid at RB auctions as any type of guide. The reason is everyone is basically rolling the dice that breaker will run at least for a while. My experience is this, yesterday at a RB auction in Boise I watched an internet buyer pickup a BC branded breaker to fit a 435, not sure but I would guess it was a 500-750 pound hammer. There was without exaggeration an inch of movement in the tool in both directions inside the carrier. So bushings where in order at a min. It went for 1800 I think. I sold a Stanley some years ago at an RB sale, it was a skid steer mounted model about 500 pound hammer. I got 2500 for the hammer it was worn out. I bought an Esco some years ago at a RB sale. I had to rebush it and some other work, cost me 2K to refurbish and 1000 at the auction. That 1500 pound hammer hit like a freight train. Overall very good buy. Its a role of the dice. You dont have the opportunity to run them before you buy them (such as at auctions) you really need to get them cheap.
X2 on this. In my experience most attachments go cheap at auctions and, IMO, you have illustrated the reason. Unfortunately even a cheap buy can still cost a lot to bing up to spec. Which in the end can end up not being cheap at all. There is a lot more that can wear out than bushings. Small hammers are less risk because they usually endure less stresses than bigger hammers. Big hammers can be more than $10k to rebuild correctly. As KSSS says "It's a roll of the dice."
When you rent a machine with a hammer, are the tips included in the rental fee or do you have to pay per inch of wear, or do you just have to buy your own tips?
I have no idea how they do it in NS but down here the tip wear is included in the rental. A broken tip is replaced by the renter though.
Yep, and I come out on site and see a snapped off chisel, my glasses will be low on my nose and I'm gonna be looking over top of them because it's likely you been prying with that chisel. :cool2
Hi all, My 30 years plus experience using rockbreakers (hammers) has taught me to buy from a dealer who will give a limited warranty on a used/re-built hammer.Some people will flame cut the bushes from the chuck housing, this causes expansion of the bush due to localised heat and this will crack the chuck housing, the cracks may not be clearly visible. This may result in the new bushing becoming loose, only fix is a new chuck housing-expensive! My company used to wreck the refractory linings from steelworks ladles for 22 years, we had to work with the chisel up in the roof of the ladle, the dust was very abrasive some chuck bushings only lasted for 4 months, even though the hammer was greased every hour. The most effective way of keeping out the dust was to cut a piece of pit belting (conveyor belt) and press the chisel through it so it gripped the chisel.The piece of belting probably only lasted long enough to wreck a couple of ladles - if the ladles were hot the belting sometimes caught fire.
A couple of years ago I put a brand new chisel in a jcb/ rammer breaker tracked back to where I was working half way there the tip fell off just behind the taper, the surface was as smooth as a baby bum ............. the supplier said it was a manufacturing fault something to do with the hardening process and it happen quite a bit..................
Aye, it does happen stock, very hard piece of steel. I was referring more to the habits of rental operators. I have been on so many sites and done a repair to a hammer, wait around to make sure it's working proper, operator will drive it into rock, then, without letting up, move arm in/out and adjust bucket cylinder changing the angle on the chisel while it's in the hole. I just cringe.
How about the knuckleheads that penetrate the point into the rock and then keep dry firing even after the foot is against the rubble!? Have you got a point that you have had more success with than others? Chisel, cone, dust chisel, elephant foot etc? How about wear?
I'v read threw this thread and have a question for ya. We don't buy our hammers at auction. We rent to own. Run it for a while and if it's good we buy it. Now back to my original question if you buy a hammer at acution for lets say 5000 get it home and find it needs rebuilt. Cost of rebuild is 10,000 but buying new is about 25,000. Arn't you still ahead? I was in the understanding that as long as the casing is good once you rebuild it it's the same as new. Or have i been misinformed.
The limestone we have around here, doesn't take long for a new chisel or cone to be an elephant foot. I'm not into hammer sales so I have no real clue what they cost, but I've been told they are very expensive. What brand of new hammer are you pricing at 25K? And that's relatively true, as long as the power cell housing is good inside, new parts pretty much make it like a new unit. On the other hand, if the housing is bad, big money to replace that.
"Dry firing" is very bad. Sometimes it is un-avoidable, like when sizing rock, but one can usually time things perfectly for the last pop to take place just as the rock breaks. Just a little experience, CONCENTRATION, & EFFORT, is all it takes. The type of point that works best will depend on what you are doing and what type of rock/material you are breaking. You have answered your first question (as long as all your numbers apply to whatever hammer you may buy). My point is that one would best assume a rebuild, when buying at auction or from an unknown seller, and make sure you don't spend too much on the front end. The second question is not a simple one. A lot depends on the make, of hammer, and how it is designed. Some components are not cost effective to rebuild/replace, and some have components/designs that render the unit a throw away when that component wears out. Homework, homework, homework....still can't get away from it.
I know the feeling but cash sooths the pocket........................... Same as here Atco /Willie 59er put the point down and watch the dust rise even on a wet day................worst I had was granite we had barrels of water to cool the tips they were getting so hot...................
I hear ya stock. After all...there's a reason they called for a breaker. :yup
Atco/ Willie59 but who getting broken, breakers do take their toll on man and machine ....................
Tis true my friend. My best description of a hyd breaker is "a necessary evil".
And just imagine having to go back to the old air fired breakers. The noise and the things shook you so hard you were thinking about getting a mouth guard.
Although i don't have any idea about use of hammer but i heard from one of my uncle about storm brand which is good in quality.
Anybody has had any experience with INDECO hammer/breaker or Sandvik? regards.
Sandvik were formerly rammer and a lot of machine manufacturers rebadge them as their own. Probably the best breaker made.
Thanks for your info @stock, Where do you recomend to buy hammer parts in the US? I need to fix my montabert V55.
I would PM Willie 59 I'm 5000 miles away from the states so I would be of little use to you in that respect.
I've been using Allied Construction Products lately for parts for various brands. There will be a technical rep at our place on Wed to set up an Atlas Copco HB4200, I can ask him if they do parts for Montabert. http://www.alliedcp.com/
I will appreciate it willie59, best regards.
Was informed that Montabert is now Tramac, you should be able to get some distributor info from their website. > http://www.tramacbymontabert.com/
Anybody here can help with the price of a Rammer/Sandvik BR3288 breaker? thank you
Agreed, a rebuild can be cost effective. I think the risk is the cracked housing that only NDT my indicate rendering it a super duper expensive overhaul?
I have an Indeco 2000lb hammer and have been very pleased with it. Their HQ is in Stratford, Ct which is very close to where I operate out of and since the dealer it came from went out of business I can deal with them direct for service and parts. They have been nothing but outstanding with the attention and service I have gotten from them and they have been very reasonable with their pricing. The hammer hits well and seems fairly simple to service so far.
We are looking to buy a 5000# impact class hyd hammer soon, and have contacted several dealers of different brands. They all tend to "pump" their own brand over others. I'm wondering if any of you guys know which brand is best in terms of uptime, parts and service support, and ease of rebuilding? We currently own a Kent KF27 QT which has been a good hammer so far. We also own an Esco ES80A which was probably the hardest hitting hammer we ever had with very little downtime. Problem with the Esco is they don't make em anymore. Impact class on hammers is very misleading due to everyone classing hammers differently. We have tried various hammers supposedly in the same class and some hit like a little girl compared to others. It's for sure a confusing area of our industry, especially when you are talking that kind of money and getting the most bang for the buck. I figured it couldn't hurt to ask you all which brands stand out in the long run?
Here is one of my new Cat H160 fitted to a 336EL, it weighs 3,200kg
Can anyone tell me what Model hammer this is. I have my doubts that its even a Furukawa brand. Has a 5" chisel, guy had it on a 320cat.