I have a Kobelco excavator grey market SK03. Right now it is stuck in one place. The problem is, my right side track will not move? I used the arm to lift up the left side track off the ground this tilts the machine so the track in free in the air, I use the left track control, I push forward and back, the track works just fine, I do the same thing for the right side lifting the right track so it is free in the air and using the right track control, what happens is the track will move, barely in reverse a few feet then gets stuck, if I try to move it forward, it gets suck after only a few inches. Hydraulic fluid level is fine. All other machine hydraulic functions work fine. Any ideas on what my problem might be? Thank you.
Glad I am Not alone Change your post to Komatsu PC75UU-2E and we seem to have same problem, you hope. My problem was in the valving , not the drive, and it cost $3000 to fix. If your problem is the drive itself, just shoot the machine and sell for scrap. Hope the problem is a simple one.
Welcome to HEF redline808! :drinkup
Buy a Volvo!
:beatsme Not yet DirtySouthTruck... sounds most likely to be a travel motor failure, but it could be the final drive planetary, a travel spool not shifting or even the rotary swivel but this would really have to be hooped to give the symptoms described. I'm not sure of the construction of the SK03 and whether the motor is separate from the final drive or whether they are unit construction like most modern excavators. Hopefully you already checked the final drive oil for signs of gear failure. Some other things you could do would be to check travel pressure, if its low then blank off the travel lines to the motor and check it again. Check motor case drain pressure and if you don't know the spec, compare with the good side. If oil is being supplied to the motor and its not rotating then it must be leaking somewhere which will probably generate noise and heat so check the lines for abnormal noise, pulsation and high temperature. One good thing is that as you have one good motor you can swap the lines on the swivel to change oils supply left to right etc to eliminate the pump, control valve and swivel from the equation.
I took 2 videos of what is happening. Please check it out and tell me your thought. I think something is broken in the travel motor? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE7a2O2xObc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvgITbjwLM4 Thanks.
That final drive is no good. A final drive on the minis that size are about 6-7K from the OEM . minimax
drive how much does the sko3 weigh? what class? it looks like a hydash motor on it now
keep disassembeling, and see how the problem changes. If in fact your planetary is the problem there is a possibility that a good machinist might be able to save the day. Also depending on what you need I know a guy that restores heavy equipment like clark airborne crawlers and stuff. That man is the smartest parts man that I have ever known, he might be able to locate you either parts for, or maybe a used planetary or something.
Welcome to HEF stumper120! :drinkup
That is a Hi Dash final with the three fingers and lots of needle bearings. By the way you were jambing it both ways there isn't much more than scrap metal inside there now. You might try to find a used one. Search excavator parts in Google and go from there. Some names of used parts companys are H&R, Langley Excavator Parts, DomEx and FP Smith. Most Japanese excavators use that final but there might be differences in gear ratios between them so be careful and get a warranty before you send any money for a used one.
That was a great idea to post a video... it does look fatal but did you check the final drive oil for debris? Those final drives often show signs of particle contamination but in this case you may see fragments or major contamination especially when compared with the other side. My bet would be that the final drive is toast and is not economical to repair. Here is a link to one of Johns suggestions for a replacement hy-dash final drive assembly: http://www.hrparts.com/hrwest.html
It looks like your front idler berings are out too.
Good idea on the video ! I would start by pulling the final drive apart and i am quite sure you will find the problem. Show us the insides. doug
i,d be checkin that front idler. with a tight track it could be enough to stall your final.
Welcome to HEF xcvator! :drinkup
We have a 70SR kobelco, the thing has never had an abundance of power in hills, it always goes just very slowly. The right side drive seems to make a small noise now.
I don't know exactly how much it weights. I assume around 10 tons, it smashes my 11 ton trailer pretty good. it is a HI-Dash.
What, jambing it both ways is not good? Ummm, Yea. My fault. It wouldn't go, so force it mentality set in. at first I thought there was a rock stuck in the track. Volcanic rock here in Hawaii is brutal. Now I know something is broken inside.
Something is toast. In fact, after pain getting it off the machine, the oil that came out was metallic looking with small bits of metal and smelled so bad, I mean really really bad like you cannot believe.
Front idler bearings not even present, its just a shaft and a big hole. All the small ones on the bottom are done too. I will be rebuilding all of that before the track goes back on. Its going to ride like a Cadillac when its done. I wont have a pesky wallet to sit on either, sense I'll be broke. lol.
Thanks, a video was the best way I could think of showing you guys what was going on.
I think that bad idler was the culprit.
Ok, it's out. First let me start by saying I am not a mechanic, secondly, taking the travel motor out is a big pain in the A_s. 13 bolts hold it on. 6 came out normal, 5 needed a 3/4 impact with a snap on extractor, which broke and 2 needed to be torched off as you can see. then it did not want to part with the machine, I wraped a chan around it and hooked the other end to my bucket, fired up the machine and yanked it out, it took several trys to free it, i thought the chain was going to snap. well it's out. Now I cannot figure out how to get it apart. I got the valve body off the back, from there I dont know where to go. I flipped it over, using a scraper, and scraping out almost 20 yrs of dirt, rocks and sand, I found a wire clip that goes all the way around the out side of the housing, I got the clip out. I cannot get that front cover off? I have heated it, hit it, pried it, tried screwing a bolt in the drain hole to try and press it up, while heating and hiting. I don't know. Any Ideas. btw, how do you post photos? I tried, but could not seem to find the right code. Thanks.
Drive motor cover removal I have a very slight leak on my Komatsu cover. My dealer told me it is near a day to get the thing apart because the cover is installed with a slight press. A "special fixture" needed to be made. So I figure checking the oil level every 100 hours is bettewr than a $1000 to repace an o-ring. I suggest you ask a dealer how to remove the cover amd use lots of penetrating oil. The covers are tight to reduce the housing flex.
See the second red line (no pun intended ) in my signature below. If that doesn't help then just let me know.
Sorry , this is a thread hyjack. The Spool valve on the right side of my Kamatsu PC75UU2E is galled up. $2700 for a new one with a long wait! Where can I try to find a used one? Help! Anyone Thanks
Alright here are pictures of my machine.
My new/used travel motor is here. Fresh from Thailand, costed $1100. We carried it on as luggage, Japan airlines only chared $120 for it being over weight. It weighted in at 180 lbs.
Where did you order it through? As far as the stink of the oil, all motors turn the oil rancid. The first time I changed mine I thought I was going to puke. Since then I have swapped to Amsoil and change it every 300 hours or so and have much cleaner less stinky oil. For the cost and hassle of a track motor, Amsoil is cheap.
Originally the excavator was from Vietnam, and I shipped it to Hawaii. We went to Thailand for a vacation, they have a used parts area in Bangkok, everything you can imagine used from cars, bikes, to dozers and excavators. Area is called Pathumwan.
SJ83 with a bit of social skills make that man your new best friend I have met but a few thusfar that posess these wonderful talents unfortunately almost all now are deceased In Canada most of the early immigrants were from Europe and it would be a disservice to call these people tradesman as they were craftsman in their skills and expertice. Unfortunately in todays techno assembly and disposable world doesn't readily promote this anymore:beatsme Had I displayed a little less arrogance/ignorance of youth I could have learned more from the masters.:Banghead
Cover Removal Looks like you have it handled , in case you wanted to get that cover off the old planetary to see what failed and possibly keep it as something to rebuild if needed in the furtire , I start with a fitting welded to a nut to screw onto a slide hammer , screw it into the hole for the oil plug , this works in most cases but yours looks very rusted and will probally not come out easy , AeroKroil is the best penetrant I have every used and could help , if the plug adaptor pulls the threads off the fitting , I would weld a large nut to the cover , which can be cut off and grinded clean afterwards and make an adaptor to the slide hammer for it , some heat around the out side of the housing may help , have seen cases where I have had to destroy the cover to get it out , as long as the teeth on the outer ring of the housing are good you could posiblly get away with some sun and or spur gears and bearings which is probally what has it jammed up , if that ever happens to you again it isn't a good idea to keep jammed it forward and reverse as that is how you crank off the teeth and trash any chance of cost effecent rebuild , as far as the smell , I know it well , it's wiecked and stays with you , makes me think it hasn't been changed in a long time , have actually been on job and drained and flushed the planetaries ( which is a good idea to do ) and had them thinking someone hit a gas line or something
Bobcat 320 please help Hi, I'm a newbie here and cant post a new thread so searched for track motor and this is the thread I found....so here goes, I have the Bobcat 320 roughly 1996 model, I need to know if a 322 two speed motor would be operational in my single speed 320. Please help here as I'm having real trouble finding an answer to this question. Cheers :Banghead
It works. Finally installed the new drive motor. It took so long because I found out that the front "idler wheel" I don't know if that is what it is called, but the axle that goes through it was all that was there, the bearing was so destroyed it was not even present. I wish I had a picture of it. What happened is while I was driving forward, the front wheel locked up the track, I guess with the weight of the machine and the drive motor pushing forward, it caused the drive motor to blow up. The front idler wheel is what caused this whole mess. So then I had to repair that front idler wheel, sense I cannot get any parts for the grey market machine, I took it to a local heavy equipment machine shop. They charged $140 to press out the axle and then estimated it to cost $1500-2000 to fab up a new bearing for one side. Well forget that, time for another vacation, back to Thailand, Japan Airlines ticket $750. Once there, I bought both sides for $300. I am still in it for less then the machine shop wanted for one side and I go a vacation too. Again hand carried it back as baggage. Almost ready to install, needed bolts. No one on our island has metric bolts the sizes I needed. I ordered them from Caterpillar, awesome, they have free shipping, next day air. Now I am ready, I install the drive motor and go to hook up the hydraulic lines, damn, different connection fittings, my old drive motor had compression style, the new unit used another style, and to top it off my old fittings were to small and would not fit, as the fitting holes were quite a bit larger then my old unit. Of course, no one here has the fittings I need. Next best thing cut the fitting in half, use half of my fitting and half of the new fittings and tig weld it together. Just that simple, no, the new motor was missing a fitting. I hunted around for a bolt with the same threads, or something, I almost resorted to turning one on a lathe, luckily we found a hydraulic line plug that had the same thread. The pictures below show what I did to make it work.
After I made the fittings, we we installed the drive motor, sprocket and front idler wheel. attached the hydraulic lines, popped the track back on and here it is. going to try and drive it tomorrow, if the weather permits. It has been storming here in Hawaii for the past week and yes believe it or not, we have had several feet of snow fall on our mountains. Tomorrow I am taking a half day to go snow boarding.....wu-hu.
Nice follow up. Thats a heck of a parts run you made!
Alright, I drove it today. New problem?? The new drive motor, on the right track is a lot slower then the left track? do drive motors have left and right? there was 4 ports on the drive motor for hydraulic lines. 3 were used one is plugged. When I installed the unit, the top one was plugged and the next 3 were open. I needed to put my small line in the top port, so I took that plug out and moved it to the bottom port. The bottom port was plugged on the original motor. Could I have that wrong? My machine is low on hydraulic fluid to, could that be a problem? I would think both tracks would be slow if it was fluid level related. Any ideas please
Hi...I need a radiator and shroud for a Clarke Airborne and you mention a party that restores, etc. them. Can I find out who that is or where you talking about Syltech in NY? thanks!! Robert Moline in Nashville, TN or- [email protected]
I have removed one of the plugs on the HyDash motors and used a little compressed air to pop the cover off, use low PSI.
track I had the same thing, with a Komastu, it had a bad bearing in the final drive. Im not sure about your model, but most of them are easy to take apart, just take the track off and remove the bolts in the circle pattern, some of them has a few threaded holes, in the circle flange to screw some off the bolts in, so you can press the flange off. A way to check for bas bearings, is remove the oil drain plug and see if there is any metal. Hope this helps
We have a grey market Kobelco Sk40SR mini excavator and had the same problem. You can not get parts for a grey market excavator in the states at least we couldn't. It was our final drive that went out and I found one in the UK. the gear ratio was different but we had no problem with it after we put it together. It worked great. The company in the UK if you would like to check it out is Planet Parts the telephone number is+44 (0) 1473 827145 The email address is [email protected] . At the time about 3 years ago it cost us $5,000 for the part. I hope this information is helpful.
I fixed it. When I had purchased the drive motor, I purchased a match set. So I just installed the other one we had and now it travels at the same speed. What happened is I didn't know there were different gear ratios. My machine came with 64:1 ratio, which at the time I didn't know because the tags were missing. The new drive motors I had purchased were 102:1. I am a little disappointed because that has killed some of my travel speed (I like to work fast, jobs are by the bid not the hour) but now with that ratio and the blade down, nothing stops it. We now call it the EXCA-DOZER...... I ended up getting my drive motors out of Thailand for $1100 each. much better then the $5k we were quoted out of the states.
That is great that you found one much cheaper. If we need another drive motor can you tell me how you located that dealer and how you got it. Also do you know if they have other parts for Kobelco mini excavators.
Basically I flew to Thailand $750 for the flight. In Bangkok there is a section of the city that has parts yards for everything. I went to one place, told them what I needed, they did not have it but sent a person out to find it and with in a few hours that person came back with the 2 drive motors. I then brought them back as luggage. the airlines charged me an extra $50 because of it being over 70 lbs. plus I got a vacation out of the deal. I had to repeat the whole process because I later found out I needed front idlers. found two for $300 and another vacation. worked out well.
Hello All, Redline808, how did you take the cover off that Final Drive, I mean the cover for the Planetary Gears? I have HyDash Final Drive (on mini Sumitomo excavator 1000J) which I need to remove the planetary gear cover to inspect the noise the gears are making inside. Thanks so much. Zul Malaysia
i would have you check the simplest thing first. the hyd travel motor likely has a brake spool either built-in the casing or a seperate manifold bolted untop. the side that does not work maybe the caps that thread into the brake spool casing have loosenede and backed off which will apply the brake. remove the end caps and slide spool out. cap will have an o-ring and a hole that you can place a rod of sorts thru in order to torq back into spool casing tightening threads. repeat on opposite side of this spool. if has loosended off the other side will not be long to follow. cheers!
Having a similar problem with my sk270lc mark iv excavator. one track works fine the other is non operational. Hoping for a busted line but looking for possible valve issue. Any suggestions?
Probably better to start a new thread listing SK270LC travel problem. This thread is from 2011.