Hey, Here is my problem, I am new to the backhoe world. I started last year snow clearing, had a great year....now I am after picking up a few small hobbles around the town I am from. I have to say I find spreading topsoil and class A stone such a pain in the ass!!! I am never satisfied with how it looks....keeping her level is damn near impossible. Is their a book of some sort that gives you the how to steps on how the heck to tackle such jobs? Like a heavy equipment school book? or does anyone have any good tips?? I'd really like to hear em. Please any help at all is greatly apreciated. I love digging but I know I aint that great at it, but I know with practice it'll get better...I hope! Come on people share your knowledge!!! Thanks Rampking
I don't know about any one else but i think it just takes time , paractice and finding your own techneak, spreading anything with the backhoe will be a little hard because you have tires that are moving up and down when you grade unlike a track machine that has less movement. when i spread topsoil in a yard i do the big stuff with the backhoe but do my fine tunning with the bobcat.
back dragging is best to get level.
sorry rampking for jumping your thread but new here and cant post new thread it says my BB code is on anybody know what that is?
yes you could do that too but if the ground is up and down you kinda get the same resaults unless you put it in float mode.
Hey cat new here too got a case 580c mid 70 model, what is float mode i think that would work do i have it? never heard of it
A good eye and experience ,i tend to look around a lot to my surroundings ,hard to explain because i'm that used to doing it(if that makes sense)
If needing to level going forward- Push with a full bucket. I ain't very good at it but have watched several that are.
Grizzly700, Welcome to the Forums!:drinkup It takes three posts before you can start your own thread, it's to keep the spammers out. Now that you have 3 posts and you are a junior member, your ready to go. If you have any other questions check out the link in my signature line.
Greg has it... It's a lot easier to grade with a fullish bucket, forwards or when backing. The weight helps and the little bit of spillage fills low spots.
I had a '76 580c it was a solid machine . to float it you pull all the way back or forward on the stick and it should lock into float if that sounds right . i have done it with dirt in the bucket and they are right it does work good too. .
The "jack of all trades" the rubber tire backhoe - is a master of none. Now don't get me wrong I have one and it's used pretty often. A skid grades better, a mini-ex digs faster but if you need or are only able to send only one machine to load trucks, dig ditches or clean-up in tight places, then a TLB is the machine. It's tough to grade with the loader and it is easier to grade with a full or near full bucket, as the others have stated. It just takes a while to get the rhythm and that just takes time and practice like any piece of equipment.
I rarely use float.I do use a full bucket though.I like keeping the downpressure when back dragging.I keep downpressure and rol the bucket.When the heel of the bucket is square to the ground,it pulls material very well.I have a 580k
The float position is pushed all the way forward. The lever will lock into a detent and stay there until you pull it back out. IMO you will do better if you do not put the bucket into the float position. When back dragging I find it's best to use the bucket curl to help control fill vs cut. Curling the bucket lip up (like if you were trying to scoop up dirt) will make it cut more. Tipping the bucket forward will raise the heal and allow the spoils to fill. This will work either in, or out, of float.
Over here in Scotland the (backhoe)as you guys call it ,is the main stay on house construction sites and other sites come to that ,the machine i operate is the JCB 3cx contractor powerslide wouldn't have anything else due to be renewed (been on them all).And it's the jack of all trade and IS master of most jobs around the site,from shifting pallets to landscaping back gardens ,drains around the property,grading pavements ,final grading of the roads .....if you can't do any of those it's a case of grab your lunchbox your outa here ..... The "jack of all trades" the rubber tire backhoe - is a master of none.....totally disagree it's all down to the man in the seat!!!
Maybe I work in a different environment to some of you commercial operators, but I use a tractor with a scrape blade. I'm sure several other machines with the ability to tilt would be better. Sometimes I move some dirt with the hoe, then quickly use the scrape blade to somewhat level the dirt just so the hoe has a more level area to ride on. Then all the final dirt leveling is done with the scrape blade before raking to sew grass. Because the backhoe is so long and without the ability to tilt the bucket sideways, I just dont't have room to work in all four directions. And with top soil the heavy hoe packs down the dirt before I am ready for this.
no matter what you use full bucket, empty, float or 4-n1 using the blade it all takes time and practice till you get comfortable gradding with it.
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Grading with a backhoe I do all my finish grading with a backhoe (like DGODGR posted earlier). Establish your grade and attitude and stay on it. A foot at a time. If the hoe dips or bumps stop, back up and fill or cut and proceed foreward on grade with desired attitude(cross slope). Use 4/1 to cut high, hard spots if you have one or to spread fill material quickly. Use short back and forth passes to keep material firm if not working with roller. Water if material is stringing. I try to achieve 1/2 a tenth variance on grade on a flat pad with a reciever on a mast.(sometimes hard to do) for bottom of footing. I can just get crowned or cross sloped roads close and then have to call the grader guy (Cat 140H with blade control). I hope this contributes.
IMO Topsoil and Gravel are the most difficult materials to spread with a backhoe because they are typically light and granular in nature. I try to remind myself of that and make small moves with the bucket as I find it yields the best results. I also try to remind myself not to get in a hurry... you rarely see a grader WFO when making finishing passes on granular materials. I think its most important to make a pass and get your grade going the way you want it, then ease over from there. Keep it up though... there is no substitute for seat time! Just keep a good rake with you in the mean time.
Oh Man. I should have read rampkings post better! Gravel is difficult to spread/grade aggreed! It can seem like you are trying to grade water. Lot of backdragging and yes, bring a rake. Please excuse the irrelevance of my previous post.
Well with a rubber tired backhoe you grade with the rear wheels, tire pressure must be checked and maintained to keep the front cutting edge level. lock up the rear hoe if there is no overhead issues (tree branches/building over hangs/wires) this brings the weight to the front end and helps to control your gradeing (hoe lowered in the rear makes front light). I have 4 differant backhoes at work and all handle differant due to the way they are set up, mostly have 4x4 with the 4x1 bucket but all will do the same just takes more skill switching all the time. I ruff grade first then pick my start point, lower loader frame down,open clam about 5 inches, roll bucket foward untill edge hits the ground, bladeing material, shaveing and moveing where needed, returning to the start point and go again, I work the whole area bringing that starting point with me. It takes some time to get the feel and you will get it with time.
Three things you need to know about grading Practice Practice practice. each individual must develop their own technique and when you think you have it work on it some more...........................
Everyone has mentioned good ideas, all that work. The biggest factor mentioned is seat time. Until you have alot practice under your belt, there will be some difficulties. The hardest part is learning the machine and what angles work. How to start of, when to curl, when to dump. Matching the angle of the bucket to the ground keeping in mind the bucket might be were you want but theres still 10ft of tractor behind it. The best way to learn is to watch other good ops work and get right in the seat see what works for you. No one is the same.