Anyone have some tricks/ideas on how to get final drive installed. I cannot get it to go back in the hole... it goes right up to the shoulder and no further. I've greased it poured oil on it, tightened the bolts till i'm afraid the flange will break off, beat on it, jacked it up and it just won't go. If anyone knows a trick i'd really appreciate it. It's on a takeuchi tl140 ctl.
Is that’s the one that was there?
Yes. I'm guessing it's just cocked a bit but I'm out of ideas. Bore is clean, shoulder is clean, just can't get it started.
OK, I need to talk to you some more’why did you remove that final drive?
Try to install two al threads one on top one on bottom, as a guides, to help you keep that thing straight. But I need to talk to you about reason why did you removed it.
Little cocked will get you jammed, and the more you trying to push that thing in - the more effort it’ll take to take it out.
Had a bad face seal. I haven't jammed it yet, i can still easily break it loose.
Any hydraulic fluid in the planetary?
Not sure what you mean. I put gear oil in the gearbox section.
Do you mean when I initially disassembled did i find hydraulic fluid in the gearbox? I don't think so... how would I tell the difference between hydraulic and gear oil?
The hydraulic oil a lot thinner, I just wanna make sure that your not having case drain issues you don’t even suspect!
Check the breather on top the hydraulic tank, it must not be plugged. I know that TL 130 doesn’t have case drain filters but it would be good idea to check your machine and if you have it you need to inspect them.
How hard did it come out? I'm wondering if something inside the final shifted and its not lining up right, is the planetary off?
The oil was thick like gear oil and the level hadn't risen so i think i'm good.
Came out pretty hard which i thought was due to corrossion. I've got the planetary and motor completely assembled together and just trying to get it mounted back to ctl.
possible to use a red dragon to heat up the housing to a couple hundred degrees?
Maybe give the inner bore a brush with a flap wheel to polish it up a bit, maybe it has a rock ding?
Not really. I'm by myself and it takes me bout 45 mins to get the drive in place so i think any heat would've cooled in that time. Thanks though
well, barring creating a fire big enough that the FD shows up to help install your final, how about a precision look over, really go over the bore with a close eye and find where its hanging up, polish a few thou off that area and try again, drive should have some scratches too.
Did you plugged all holes right after you pulled the hoses off? If you didn’t you gonna need to clean everything! It is closed loop system the oil is not really goes back to tank, it’s goes around, the loopflush has very small flow to tank. If you have dirt in motor or hoses you will damage both motor and pump! And unless you have pressure washed the location of fittings spotless you will contaminate the system - it’s impossible not to! Believe me I gust replaced pump on TL130 Wright after replacing motor.
First, flap wheel polish both the chassis hole and the companion area of the gearbox assembly. Secondly, how are you lifting, balancing, installing the assy? The idea is to present it to the chassis as square as possible. Once at the bore, you need to square it as you set it. A lever is needed, whether a long pipe wrench on gear, or anything else that will help you rock it in, as opposed to pulling it in. The fact that you said it came out tough says that you may need to remove material in, rather than polish, the chassis hole. Slip fit is ideal, but, certainly not necessary. You can get a better idea of where to remove more material by looking at the mating scars when you pry it out again.
Success. It looks like when the drive is pulled up tight there's a 0.090" gap ... confirmed by looking at other side, I was thinking it would pull up tight. Does anyone know if I have to bleed anything before firing it up?
I spent a lot of time cleaning (no pressure washer), plugged holes and hoses with paper towels.
Nope. It is good practice to not work the replaced part until it has been operated slowly in each direction long enough to ensure that it has received oil. 30 seconds each way, engine idling, is sufficient. The verify hydraulic oil level, and lack leaks.
Really appreciate ya'lls help.
When you start the engine the charge pump on that system should send enough oil to the motor to lubricate the hydraulic motor. In future fill the hydraulic motor with oil before refitting it.
Drive running smoothly, no leaks, track on and the friggen tension cylinder won't take any grease. Took the fitting out and it lets grease through it but something in the cylinder is frozen or blocking the grease. Track back off, idler off, tensioner next to woodstove for the night.