Hi there - finally at final stages of replacing my seal on hub behind the planetary gears and want to make sure I do this right given its my first time using a gasket sealer (Permatex Ultra Black is what I'm using). I'm thinking i need to run a bead about 1/8" thick around the inside of the flange and that i should do the following based on my reading 1. make sure both flanges are clean and free of any previous gasket material 2. run 1/8" bead on side of flange as outlined with my red path (questions: should i run it on both flanges ? ; should i cirlce the bolts; should i run a bead near the outside of the flange? 3. leave bead alone for 10 minutes (i've read anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour) 4. hand tighten screws (i.e. don't squish all the gasket material quite yet 5. Let it stand for an hour 6. tighten screws/bolts to spec 7. wait 24 hours before filling with gear oil. Can anyone confirm I got this right ? Thx Ron Here is the product I'm using
Ron, I guess you got your new plate, how many million $$$ was it? Does everything go together now without having to force it? As to how to seal it, I have sealed hundred of Jaguars over the years as I owned a Jag repair shop for 30 years. Step one is CLEAN. In the picture it looks preggy grungy, what is all that stuff on there? All old gasket and sealer off then clean both surfaces with carb spray if you have it, or something like lacquer thinner. No oil or it won't stick. You probably don't need 1/8", once it's together there should be only a thin film maybe a couple thousands of an inch thick. If you spread it with your finger you'll be sure it's covered. Then together, waiting is not necessary and you don't want it to skin over. Joe H
Hey Joe - thanks for the reply. Yes, i got a new plate. New they were $695 CAD new but i was able to get a used one out of Montreal for $250 so painful but could have been worse. But i didn't want to do all this work and then potentially have the seal go again because the hub was "wobbly". Yes, with the new hub, as you said everything went together nicely without have to force it which made me feel good. Thanks for making me think about it to the point of taking it apart so see what the heck was going on. Yes, the stuff you see is the gasket residue i put on from yesterday....but then took the plate off today because i essentially sealed the outside of the flange and then lying in bed i thought that was stupid because fluid is just going to come through the bolts. So I'll clean it up good with brake cleaner - i just want to get confirmation of where I should spread the gasket stuff - should i just sort of smear it all of the flange with my finger ? Or just concentrate on the inner part of the flange ? Thx Ron
I would do the entire flange. Like Joe said, extremely thin and, do not let it get a skin on it or it will not adhere to the flanges. The two no no's are too thick and torqueing the bolts too soon.
Torque immediately. You're right about the bolts, it will come up the threads if you don't get them sealed. No offense to Tinkerer, but I fixed Jaguars for 30 years, one of the leakiest things on the planet. Tighten it now, not later and it won't leak. If I can make a V12 stop leaking I'm doing something right. Joe H
Thanks guys for all your help - much appreciated. I think I'm now good for my final step which I'll tackle tomorow
I concur with Joe, clean the surfaces well. If there is any oil on them the silicone will leak. I have been fixing vehicles for 37 years. Everything from Austin Healeys to Jags, to Volvos and anything else you can think of. The biggest mistakes using silicone: 1. Using too much. Smear it paper thin. 2. Waiting too long to torque things down. Apply it and torque it right way. 3. Surfaces not clean from oil Good Luck!
Thanks guys for the help. Followed the steps (solid cleaning, paper thin, torque right away) and its been running a few weeks with no leaks ! Yeah
I rarely use silicone now, but I used to use it a lot. But I never had any real instruction on it by anybody, this forum was not around then. Why torque right away? I did torque right away back in those days. But now I read the tube and it says torque lightly and wait 1 hour, or so. I guess to keep a little thickness in between the flanges.
Can't think of any reason to not torque immediately, I know what I did and it worked for me. If you don't use silicone, what are you using? Joe H
Most equipment I work on now has paper gaskets for whatever reason. I used to coat some with a thin film of silicone for a security blanket. But I dislike the idea of bits of silicone getting loose in the engine. I have switched to High-Tack for coating gaskets now. It is not slippery and really thin and sets within minutes instead of hours. I work on generators and usually they need to be back in service as soon as humanly possible and sometimes are remote so you don't want to come back after the gasket has set 24 hours. One and done. But for whatever reason, mostly they have not gone with silicone all over like modern stuff.
Silicone and gskts don't go well, sometimes it acts as a lube and the gskt will tear and slide out. I never had any trouble with Jags needing to wait, together and fire it up worked fine. Always used GE hi-temp. Orange stuff, good stuff. Probably discontinued as it worked well. Joe H
Yes, that is why I stopped putting it on gaskets, the squeeze out was a potential problem. There is another issue, adhesive vs non adhesive. Some of that stuff glues the parts together so that you might as well break them to get them apart again.