This is probably a simple job for alot of the old-timers here, but since I started running into some problems I thought I would post some pictures of what I am going through......and hopefully end up with the cylinders off and new ones installed. Here is a pic of the power steering cylinder on the left side: And the cylinder on the Right side: These may be the original cylinders, now over 50 years old. I have been soaking the threads/joints with PB Blaster for the past few weeks. Then I used a wire brush/tooth brush (my girl-friends, of course), and some old gas to clean the threads/bolts. Pulled out the cotter pins (or nails) and was able to remove those castle nuts on the Right side with no issue (I think it was a 13/16th socket). On the Left side, the lower nut causes the entire ball joint shaft to turn when trying to remove it.......so, I will deal with that after I get the Right side off. (Maybe using a pickle fork/joint removal tool to put some pressure on it will allow the nut to come off......other suggestions will be appreciated). So, here is the ball joint removal tool that I tried to use on the Right side: Got the wrench on and torquing away: (continued in next post)
Torquing away on the ball joint removal tool: POW!!!!!!! Ka-Boooooooom!!!!! Pop Goes The Weasel! Poor tool could not handle the task, and blew apart into 2 pieces. Continued......
An expert on this site suggested using a big hydraulic jack to apply upward pressure on the ball joint end (and I had the same idea come to me in one of my nightmarish dreams).......so, my next step is to get out the hydraulic jacks, sledge hammers, blocks, and wait to hear the bell ring "Round 2". Will post more pics. as the work continues..........
If you didn't need to replace the end you could just unscrew the cylinder rod from the end and leave it in place. I did mine like that and it worked fine. On the one that is not coming off you would hit the knuckle the taper goes through with a hammer as you pry up. On the one the nut won't loosen on you can try hitting down on the top to seat the taper. If that doesn't work try holding down on it with a large pair of channel lock pliers while loosening the nut.
When the dam tapered bolt comes loose and turns n turns it is time to use a cutting torch to cut the nut. The NUT not the bolt.
NH57........Great replies and suggestions for sure. As I will show in the following pics/posts, your were right about "apply pressure downward on the ball joint to get the nut loose". Tinkerer.....Well, I had been thinking of bringing out the HEAT, but managed to get that thar nut off........will now post pics/comments:
So the bell sounded, and Round 2 of the match started......me against those stuck power steering cylinders. I got out the large hydraulic jacks and first jacked up the front end so I could pivot the tires far enough so that the jack would crank up against the threaded portion of the ball joint: I put alot of jack pressure up against the ball joint bolt, and then used the pickle fork tool and gave her a few good smacks: And the ball joint end popped right up, no problems: Continued..........
Did the same trick on the other end of the steering cylinder: I had loosened the power steering lines before busting loose this end, and gave it a few wacks, and she came loose: Got her off......no runs, no drips, no errors, as Johnny Bench would say: Continued.................
Moving to the Left side with that nut that would just spin on the ball joint shaft: I tried tapping the pickle fork in to make the ball joint tight, and then tried turning the nut. The nut seemed to move a bit before the entire shaft started turning. I also tried again using a punch into the cotter pin hole, but the punch would just bend: Even tried a small set of vice grips, but that did not work either: So, I then popped loose the other end of the cylinder: Continued..............
I then realized that maybe if I tapped down on the top of the ball joint, it might make it tight in the tappered hole. Did this, and the nut came off without any issues. (This was suggested by NH57 above). Then the jack and pickle fork combo did the trick: Got both off, and will be ordering replacements from Dale at Tractor Stuff. Best place I have found to buy tractor used and new parts......best price and incredible personal service........(800) 428-8183 or (765)378-3396. Will continue this thread after I have the new cylinders installed. Hope it helps someone else down the road.
I'm glad you didn't have to cut the nut on that one that was turning. You got lucky by pounding on the top. I can't say that, that ever worked for me. As far as I know you cannot buy just the piston ring. It comes on the piston as an assembly. If you buy new pistons, you better be sitting down when you hear the price of them. If they are available.
Tinkerer......Yep, you are right......had some luck on my side for a change when I got that nut off. I got some prices from Tractor Stuff, and they have a "non-Case" brand which are not too pricey. The actual correct-fit Case brand were twice the price, but are not available now......so, guess I will have to go with the cheaper ones. I do have rebuild kits, and will try rebuilding the old ones when I have time.
NH57.......I forgot to mention......thats super professional how you can attach comments/arrows to a picture and then post......someday you will have to teach that trick to me.
Power Steering Cylinder........Updates: Got 2 new P.S.Cylinders from Tractor Stuff. They came in black, so I used some bright Case orange on them: Had to remove the 4 hydraulic end fittings from the old cylinders to re-use in the new ones: Put cylinders in a vice, and they came out easy with no issues, and all the threads were in perfect shape: Here is the Case part number that is stamped on the side of the old cylinders: C24502-A1 650 The new orange ones are not Case, and are much thinner and lighter, but do fit and I was told many have been sold and used w/o any issues. (And they are much cheaper than the Case brand, which often are not even available).
Pics of installed P.S. Cylinders: I do have some questions for the Case experts: 1. How to know if the lines are hooked up correctly? The 4 lines go to the "Control Valve Assembly" which has 2 seperate T's. Based on the Parts Manual drawings, the "Hose to Right Hand cylinder Outer Port" and the "Hose to Left Hand Cylinder Inner Port" go to the Control Valve Tee on the right. The "Hose to Right Hand cylinder Inner Port" and "Hose to Left Hand Cylinder Outer Port" go to the Control Valve Tee on the left. (As if you are sitting on the tractor seat looking forward). These directions change the way the hoses were hooked up to the old Case cylinders. But am I correct to think as follows: As you turn the steering wheel, the pump sends fluid to one of these two "Tees"......and fluid needs to flow into the P.S Cylinder of one of the cylinders lower end while also flowing into the other P.S. Cylinder's upper end. In other words, we cant have pressurized fluid flowing into both of the lower ends of the cylinders......one cylinder will be extending the piston out, while the other one will be retracting the piston. So, I just need to be sure that the hoses are hooked up to follow this "push on one cylinder" and "pull on the other cylinder" concept?
Also, any "bleeding" tricks? Does it make sense to fill up the P.S. Reservoir, and then loosen any lines as the engine is running to let air out.......or just do as the shop manual says, which is to just run the engine and do small turns left and right and gradually let the fluid fill the lines/cylinders......then add more fluid, and continue and gradually turn the steering wheel further left and right until all the air is out.
Interesting thread and thank you for all the detailed pictures and information. My Case has a newer steering cylinder on the right side but it is leaking terribly from the seal. I was hoping to just replace the seal but it looks like i'm stuck buying a whole new cylinder. Have you figured out the issue you were having with the steering lines? I will have to take a look at mine as one is a newer model like yours and the other side is much older.
I finally got around to ordering my PS cylinder from Tractorstuff. It has been leaking real bad and i am tired of having to top off the fluid and bleed the air every time i use the machine. Now i just need to find the time to get out there and install it. This thread will be very helpful, so thank you for the effort!
Nhsuan........I happened to be online as you sent your comment. Thanks for saying this thread has been useful for you, and I hope you can get your PS cylinder replace w/o alot of problems. I guess you spoke to Dale of TractorStuff.....excellent guy he is. I cant recall what issues I was having with my Power Steering lines......maybe just the question as to how to properly bleed them? I think that I just filled up the reservoir, started the engine, and turned the wheels all the way from right to left (I still had it jacked up, so the pump had an easy time moving the wheels). Just doing that got the air out, and it seemed to work great.
I never use a pickle fork on the tie rod ends. They destroy the dust seals. After putting the jack on the stem and applying a lot of pressure, hit the fixture the stem is in with a 2 pound hammer and the stem will pop out. It has never failed to work for me. I have never had to heat one. For line identification I put colored zip ties on the hose and the fitting. I use two when there are more lines and fittings that a single zip tie will be sufficient.
Great idea, i will try that while also avoiding the use of a pickle fork.
Thanks for the post, I've no joy yet trying to remove the steering cylinder on my Case 585.
Welcome to HEF, masada91, Can't get the rod ends out of the eyes ? Put a lot of pressure on them with a hydraulic jack. Then hit the outside of the eye really hard with a big hammer. I have never seen one that didn't come out doing that.
Has anyone actually rebuilt any of these older cylinders? I'm looking for disassembly information of the cylinder itself.
Dale at Tractor Stuff passed away a few years ago and the business is no longer open.
That is very sad news.......Dale of Tractor Stuff was an extraordinary guy, and did his best to assist several of us from this Heavy Equip. site. A huge loss to all of us who sought his expert advise, and new and used parts at great prices.