I have a Case 850G dozer. I had a hydraulic hose go bad. When I replaced it, the male fitting near the machine got cross threaded. I don't see where that make fitting comes off. What is the easiest way to replace it?
HeavyEquipmentForums looks like you could cut it off and silver solder on a new one.
Can you buy just the male fitting if u cut the old one off?
i dont know why not, what size is it? 1/2 JIC?
I have takin a coupling and cut off one end, bored to fit the steel line and brazed it to the line. Silver solder will work also. I've bored my own using a hand drill and correct size drill bit. John
How bad did the threads get boogered up? Maybe the right size thread die could straighten them up? Just a thought, I've spent hours with a thread file fixing the threads on the spindle for one of the mid-rollers on a Challenger 75C. Patience and persistence sometimes works better than writing something off.
If it's a JIC fitting, it should be a standard thread. If I remember right, a 8-JIC is 3/4x16 thread, which is a regular old fine thread size. Beg, borrow, or buy a die and chase the threads.
google gave me this http://www.hydraulicheadquarters.com/braze-on-fittings/
This is a PORT fitting, BULKHEAD fitting, or TUBE end?
This is the male fitting. As you can tell, I messed it up pretty good. The metal tubing is plumbed all the way to the back, so I was just hoping there was an easier solution.
You can fix those threads, should be enough left to work just fine.
Those threads are mostly fixed already by removing the locknut. You got real lucky having the locknut already in place to clean the threads up. That must have taken some trying to get that on cross threaded with that much of the flare tip sticking out. Always get it started by hand a couple threads, and look to make sure it's lined up square.
Make sure your getting the correct fitting on the hose. Something looks funny about that fitting given the distance from the taper to where the threads start. Doesn't look like a standard JIC to me.
I think the fitting also acts as a bulkhead fitting and is mounted through a plate like the lines below it. That's why it has a lock nut and longer threads. A die or thread file should clean them up.
I'm probably gonna get flamed for this but here goes. Clean the inside of the tube. Put a tampon in it, plastic applicator will work. fix the threads clean off threads. Pull tampon out. Discard of sanitary properly. Reassemble with relief there is no metal in pipe.
Good idea actually, but yeah, funny. Knew a master diver that used to order Kotex pads by the case, they used them for strip filters on the breathing air compressors.... that was funny but practical too....
DB2, you were right. I asked a mechanic friend to come look at it. When I bought the new hose, case gave me the wrong fittings. The threads did not match causing the problem. The metal tubing goes all the way to the back of the dozer. He suggest led to just run a rubber hydraulic hose all the to the back instead of messing with the plumbing the metal tubing through the machine.
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/category_s/1130.htm Unless it's 5/8"
Apparently the pads make good sweatbands too. Pipeline welders use them. About a year ago I got a request from an inside sales rep. She was embarrassed asking if we carried -ussy pads for the vending machine type dispensers for gloves and stuff. I had a good idea what she was looking for but said maybe they wanted knee pads.
I've got an 850G and that looks like the blade tilt hose. I don't think I'd replace it with rubber unless I absolutely had too. I would guess if the jam nut came off the correct fitting would go back on and seal with little or no filing. The hoses in that area take allot of abuse from limbs and brush. I had to replace one last week in fact. I always take the hose off and carry to the hydraulic shop so they can make one identical to the old one. These dozers are 20 years old so theres no telling if fittings are factory or if someone replaced it at some point to get back running. I think I would try taking the old hose to a shop and let them look at the fitting and make a hose to fit. If you still can't get it I would call someone out to fix it with a file or new fitting (the line could be cut and spliced a little ways back past the 90). Shouldn't be too expensive to have a mechanic out. Come to think of it the way that line attaches to the valve body I think a rubber line would be pretty hard to attach.
When I replaced the hoses on my 450B I was amazed at the number of non factory fittings that had been used over the years and several of the steel tubing runs had been replaced with hoses. I just duplicated each hose as it was since it had been working fine. Many times the factory style fitting is not available to get up and running quickly so they are changed to what is on hand. I prefer the JIC fittings since no sealer is needed but if you replace any with pipe fittings be sure to use yellow teflon tape.....
If the fittings in the pic go to the blade tilt cylinder like I'm thinking they go steel to hose then back to to steel along the c frame then back to hose to the cylinder. The steel lines on my c frame were replaced with hose at some point. I plan on changing back to steel over the winter because the bulky hoses get hung up on brush and won't stay put. I think allot of the steel lines get rust holes or kinks and just get replaced with whatever will get the machine going at the time and that's fine, sometimes you gotta get it back moving. I hope the OP gets it's going things like this can get stressful when you are not sure what you need. I think a good hydraulic shop could easily fix this problem quickly though. Someone earlier mention keeping filings out of system. I always fire up the machine and flow a little fluid through the line before hooking it back up to the cylinder. Seems to get the dirt and air out. I also extend or retract the cylinder which ever is needed before hooking up. I had a problem with air getting entrained in the fluid once and this seems to help.