Got my R130 back together, hoping I got my overheating issue solved. Next item is the wire broke for the speed sensor. I picked up an aftermarket one but its not giving me the correct reading. It reads up to about 1700 rpm and then goes blank. I basically set the position by bottoming it out, then pulling back about a 1/4 turn from the flywheel. Closer seems to be better, just not sure how close i want to get it.
Found it in my manual. Insert untill contact, then back out 135 degrees.
well, 135° didnt work...wonder how precise it is or if my aftermarket sensor is not up to snuff?
Can you tell me does the speed sen s or have anything to do with the travel speed. I have an r130 that I can get to go into high range and I'm looking for solutions.
Do you know much about r130 travel speed. Mine won't go into high range so I'm seeking solutions. Thank you
Mine had a speed problem as well. Turned out to be the travel solenoid in the back. It had a broken wire. I dont think the rpm sensor has anything to do with travel speed
The issue with your speed sensor could be due to the following reasons: Sensor Gap : Try adjusting the gap between the sensor and flywheel. A typical gap is between 0.5-1.5 mm. Compatibility : Check if the aftermarket sensor is compatible with your system, or consider switching back to an OEM part. Wiring Check : Ensure the wiring is secure and undamaged. The sensor wire should be shielded to prevent interference. Flywheel Condition : Inspect the flywheel teeth for wear or debris. Sensor Range : Confirm whether the sensor is suitable for your engine’s RPM range. These steps should help resolve the issue.
It seems I might be tying some of these posts together. Ive gone back and looked at the speed sensor a little bit more and confirmed that I have 5v coming out of the sensor, but still no reading on the monitor. One "upgrade" is i finally fixed the handle for climbing up on the bulkhead. That handle also performs an important grounding function. When the handle is removed there is action at the ignition. The new one had to have the paint ground off before installing. I was hoping that would fix my tach reading, but it did not. I guess its time to pull that monitor wiring and check.
From the monitor to the speed sensor must be some wiring that can be tested with load. Do you have schematics for the unit. If you do post a picture or more and maybe someone can help. Simon C
Okay so on the bottom right is the CPU Controller which has multiple plugs coming out of it. I zoomed my computer up to 250% to be able to decifer a bit. On the right side of the schematic closer to the bottom is the speed sensor. Coming out of it is a twisted pair of wires. The top wire is going to the the controller plug CM-52 Pin #14. It does travel through CM-2 plug to get there. The wire coming out of the bottom of the speed sensor is going through the same CM-2 plug and goes to a different plug #CM-12 at the computer Pin#12. That is what i could see with glasses and squinting. You need to take a 5 amp Bulb and put power to either wire at one end with the plug disconnected from the sensor and the respective plug in disconnected at the computer. Which ever wire you are testing the far end gets connected to battery ground. It would be good to OHMS test both ends of the wire to make sure you are on the right one. If it won't pass an OHMS test you are on the wrong wire or it is broken in between somewhere. A load test of the wire is required one way or another. If the bulb is low in brightness or does not light up indicates a open in the wire, or if the bulb draws more than the power required for it to run through a multimeter in amps mode then you know it is grounding out to another wire or ground somewhere. You need to leave the bulb on for 5 minutes for it to get the wiring warm or for the wire to pop somewhere. Just to let you know, I know an old guy that made some twisted pairs of wires like that to save buying a $5000 harness , so it can be done if yours is bad. Hope this helps. Simon C
Here isa close up. I hope to get to work on this over the weekend.
Yes sir you are right on the money. Disconnect your machine negative posts first then , Disconnect both ends of your picture and both plugs from the computer. Now run a 5 amp test bulb through one wire at a time with the far end of the wire going to the test battery ground. The wires will pass or fail after 5-10 minutes. You can use a separate 12 volt battery only for the testing or whatever the bulb you have is rated for. I use a 9003 bulb on 12 volts which is a dual filament bulb with a dual wire socket. The higher amp filament is exactly 5 amps through my meter, which is handy to watch because if your wire is grounding out half way down the twisted pair, there will be some power at the other end pin of the wire not being tested. Hope it helps find out if the wires are good or not. This is the only correct way to test from my experience. Simon C
Havent gotten to the load test, but that is next. Took the monitor off to check the wires. Oh there it is, an almost broken wire, 3 strands left connected! Check the wire diagram, and its one of the exterior lights. Damit, why is it never easy.
Even only one strand left will ohm meter test perfect, that is why a 5 amp or 10 amp bulb will correctly test the wires under real world conditions. Simon C
Aarrrgghhhh! Fixed the broken wire and sprayed some contact cleaner in monitor and computer plugs. Fired up and the rpm showed...but then went blank again. Ugghhh, so close!
A ground coming out of a computer can be tested by of course disconnecting the computer plug in and disconnect the Battery ground connection. Then hook up a 5 amp bulb at computer plug end while connecting the ground cable back to Battery Ground. If is not a normal brightness bulb you know there is weakness in atleast one ground wire. Should be left on for 5-10 minutes minimum to allow heat build up. Simon C
I also noticed my low coolant resivoir alarm came on for that same couple seconds. Ill have to put together some sort of test rig for the load test. Need some way to get a pin in the connector.
Would this work
I use a Automotive 9003 Bulb with the 3 wire pigtail. One wire is for ground and the other two wires are for separate filaments in the bulb. I get 3.4 amps for my Yellow to black, and 5.0 amps for my Red to Black or both wires together with Black as ground giving a load of 8.4 amps with both filaments glowing. You can leave it on for 10 minutes or more to simulate real world conditons in a warm engine compartment. It will depend on the wire you are checking and the condition of the harness. If something pops you will know there was a weak spot there. Need to look at schematic before testing. A loose pin in a plug or partially corroded wire will become evident, including one that is grounding out on something else. I run the power for a few seconds then stop it to run it through my meter to see if it is drawing more than the bulbs loads. Hope this helps. any questions fire away. Simon C
I grabbed a 9007 from work, we dont make the 9003. Made a test setup With a length of wire and cut 3/4 of the strands. Didnt see any current drop. Only seeing 1.6A, same as going just through the lamp. Using a 12v battery charger for voltage.
So load test showed no issues. Lamp lit and didnt dim
Your lamp would probably be equivalent to the display in terms of draw. If the wires have been all tested correctly, then there would be no issue in the wiring. I have not tried a 9007 bulb alone to see how much it draws, but if it only draws 1.6 amps as you stated then the wiring would be okay, but if it draws less than that and while testing a suspect wire it draws a hair more then the wire grounding is possible. Engine vibration is another factor , but re-reading your post the aftermarket sensor is my next guess. What is an OEM sensor worth. I would never use an aftermarket one after all the videos I have watched. Simon C
The sensor is putting out 0.5A when engine running. I dont think its the sensor. I have other functions such as temp gage and low water alarm that are not working as well.
Do you have clean power up to the monitor and clean ground back to battery. Kind of running out of solutions as 2 other items in the same monitor , doubt they all fail at same time, unless the common denominator fails that feeds them or the returning ground fails under load. Could a guy try a live battery wire to the monitor, and live wire back to battery to rule it out. Simon C
CN-8 (3) and chassis is a no. Checked both sides, harness side and computer side.
When individual dashboard readings go offline (such as the coolant temperature sensor or the flywheel speed sensor) while others like the fuel gauge or digital clock continue working properly, a pins/wiring failure at this specific CN-7 harness connection is a frequent point of failure. From chatGPT
So was CN57(3) to chassis ground ok or not ok. Was just looking at this monitor to Sensor schematic. Something is obviously not ok. Were the readings off the old sensor the same as the Aftermarket one. Simon C
So CN57 (3) to chassis was open which i assume means no and thus bad cluster?
Well a cluster will cost some, but the day will come when it is no longer available, not sure what it costs. What an OEM Temperature sender is worth , not sure, but seems to be pointing at cluster. have you gotten a quote one either yet for price. Simon C
Chatgpt Summary Your cluster works (clears the bulb test), and your computer works (runs the excavator perfectly). Do not buy any expensive components. The issue is a broken or corroded communication wire bridging the gap between the two units. Even if the machine runs fine, the computer will refuse to broadcast the RPM and temperature data stream to the dash if it thinks the engine isn't actually spinning. It determines this via the alternator's R-Terminal. If the machine is charging fine but that specific signal wire is snipped or broken near the engine block, the computer stays silent on the dashboard network. Look into this tomorrow. New cluster is around $1200
Is a possibility that you have too much AC voltage going towards the Cluster and ECM, takes all of 2 minutes to check, not likely but once ruled out the choice gets easier. Hard to know what is accurate on these websites, could be true. Once evrything is tested you will have to bite the bullet, hopefully with instant success. Simon C
Well i think i found my problem! Apparently i hooked up to terminl I and not R for the signal power. I is 24v, R is 13v. At least thats what chatgpt lead me too. Switched to the correct terminal hoping that would fix it but nope!
The R-Terminal is center of the stator and is usually exactly half of the output voltage. On most from what I recall the voltage output is in AC volts before going through the diodes to rectify to DC. A wire on the wrong terminal can be hard to find short of finding it while testing from pin to pin with a number mixed up. Simon C
Well perhaps I well chatgpt was wrong. According to this, it should get 24v.
Now that I see the schematic,, yes 25.2 volts coming out of the Battery Positive if the batteries are charged , probably 28 volts when running, and number 4 going to the CPU Controller would be the control is my guess, as it says 20-25 volts telling alternator to ramp up the voltage and charge amps. Simon C
So test point 5 has 25v...point 6 and 7 are only 5v. Not sure what that means, but I think that could be the start of the issue. I need 24v at that point.
Check connector 53 Pin #8 and it should be the same as Pin number 7 which is 6 in the circle. Something is funny unless the CPU Controller is lowering the voltage or is weak on output. Simon C
Yes, CN53 Pin 7 and 8 were both 5v. CN53 only has 2 wires...wonder if i can just jump 24v to that connector to see if that works.
Was wondering if the CPU is not putting out enough voltage, would probably be safer to send voltage into the bulb if there is some way to do that. Would not want to blow CPU with high voltage, even though there is a chance it could be faulty or the loop of wiring from 6-7 is too weak or faulty. Could it be tested with a bulb. Don't want to send you down a rabbit hole with blown computer, or blowing one up. Simon C
yeah im supposed to have 24v at pin 7, but is that coming from the cpu or going into the cpu? If going into the cpu, then i could jumper off the battery (or other 24v source) and plug into the cpu.
Forgot that, I would use a 1 amp ATO fuse to send the power in as it would offer a measure of protection. From what I see there was suppose to be 20-25 volts going in, which ramps up close to 28 volts once Alternator is running. Simon C
Yes i was going to run a temporary fused wire from the battery to pin 7 on the cpu.
So, not quite and update on the RPM and I should probably change the title of this thread. But, Ive made a slight discovery. The functions of the cluster that are not working are the RPM, Temp gage. I hooked up an adjustable resistor to the wire at the sensor and was able to adjust the temperature gage on the monitor. The sender was only 6 months old and supplied by Cummins. So now a new sender is on order! Now Im wondering if my RPM sensor is bad. Ill be going back to the beginning and checking that...if it stops raining.
Not first sensor I have seen that is faulty. New only means not tested yet. Simon C
"strange things are afoot at the circle K" (Bill and Teds Excellent Adventure). I went and checked the RPM sender and now I'm not getting 5v with the engine running, also resistance value is way off. I have new sensor coming and Im going to confirm they have the correct values before installing! So Im going all the way back to the beginning with new sensors and taking nothing for granted. Also ordered a new coolant level sensor since that never worked.
Seen more than a dozen Diodes that were all faulty and still sealed in the bag from Caterpillar before. Multimeter tested with sharp probes through the bags right on the parts counter with head mechanic verifying they were all junk. It happens. Simon C
Soooo....like i said I could swear I checked and confirmed the tach sensor was good and outputing 5v. Dropped the new one in and bingo bango i got engine speed. New temp sensor is due today...hopefully i did the same stupid thing!
Thanks for posting some solution to the problem. Simon C