I have wear on my track attached pictures, can't tell where it is coming from, also may need to adjust pivot shaft.
Can you get down much lower and shoot a pic or two of the rollers on the bottom side of the track frame. The wear on the track links looks as though it could be caused by badly worn rollers. Also the sprockets don't appear to have much life left in them, although the photo isn't the clearest. Snap a shot or two of the wear surface of the front and rear idlers while you're at it.
looks like you have some real bad rollers. looks to me like the track adjustment piston is almost all of the way out.
Looks like a 10k problem lol
Do not attempt to tighten the tracks if the measurement 3 in the photo below is 4" or more.
I took a few more pictures for you
Pictures of sprocket
I guess running the machine will cost me a little more but it looks like it may cost me already
The sprockets are definitely gone, looks like the idlers are too. Here's what I suggest. Call your local Cat dealer (Fabick..?) and ask to speak to a PSSR (Parts & Service Sales Rep) who deals with undercarriage. Give him the impression that you want to buy all new undercarriage for your tractor. He will come to you at no cost and measure the wear on every component and present you with a report showing how much it is worn, with 100% representing the rebuild limit & 125% the limit if you plan on running it to destruction. I think you are already past 100% from the photos. Also ask him about what options are available to you in regard to undercarriage replacement - there ought to be more than one. Also ask for quotations for each option.
Looks like someone rebuilt the undercarriage by replacing just the tracks . If the slide keys on the front idler are worn the track guides will rub on the rails so look at the inside of the guides. What do you mean the pivot shafts need adjusting ? Bob
The pivot shaft is about 5 inches out, I guess from the wear on everything
If you mean the shaft with the wheel on it that be the track adjuster, the pivot shaft holds the track frame to the tractor. Bob
I'm thinking there is more wrong there than what you can see in the photos. The wear shown on that idler leads me to believe and bearings on the equalizer bar are broken and the bushings on the pivot shaft are worn out. I agree with Bluox that the undercarriage appears to have been pieced together with newer chains. You do have options depending on the thickness of your wallet. First get the CTS report done from a Cat dealer PSSR. From what I see in the photos, not all is completely worn out. The bottom roller flanges are not riding on the track pin bosses so the wear you see on them it likely from the guiding bars on each end of the track frames. The sprocket teeth are sharp and will have to be replaced no matter what you do. Find out the adjustment limits on the track adjuster. You will probably have to take out a link on each side. More than likely you have dry links and one of those is what I'd pull. The wear on the track chain bushings would be the next concern and a photo would go a long way into letting us know just how bad your chains are. If there are holes worn in the bushings, then all is lost and you will need new chains. There is a lot of meat left on rail sides of the links. Good Luck!
Looks as though someone went cheap on UC repairs, with worn idlers, sprockets some wear to rollers but not flange cuts on rails, I am inclined to think adjuster is far too extended, getting rollover in the adjuster and/or the tail idler shaft allowing rails into the rock guards. Get a Low photo on the idlers to rails to the guards positioning.
Are you confusing the Pivot shaft with the track slack adjuster pistions? Adjusters extended all the way out are sure sign of: worn rail/pins/buschings, drive sprockets and idlers front and or back (your idlers look like they have alot of life in the them from the pix thou) Just replacing the sprockets will take up some slack in those chains. You didnt post pix showing how loose your tracks are...do they droop alot? How much slop or wear do your chains show in the pins and bushings? Real loose wore out chains will really let your tracks flex when going over uneven ground (rocks, logs, etc) i know about wore out UC cause i was dumb and found out the hard way on my purch of a tired D4H. Except for the drive sprockets...your whole UC is in way better shape than mine. Mine has new sprockets but everything else is junk. My adjusters are almost all the way in..because 2 links have been taken out of both tracks and my chains are stretched out due to pin and bushing wear. Thank god i dont rely on this dozer for my income.
Don't think I can take links out because the other side appears okay at the adjuster. I just noticed the guard on this side is missing over the middle roller.
Making arraignments for the PSSR to inspect it.
That looks like a total undercarriage replacement. Time to sell some children
This is a LGP dozer...or it was at one time. (longer UC and blade sticks out farther from front of dozer). Are the pads 24-30 inches wide? Mine are 18. Later standard track pads are 20in i think. Wider track pads will twist and flex more on uneven ground and wear out components quicker. Lots of older LGP wide track dozers are retro fitted with narrower track pads in their lifetimes.
The rest of the machine looks really good.
Just did rails...sprockets..idlers, rock guards, rollers...used my old pads...all aftermarket on a d5h...my own labor...bill for parts was just over 14k
looks like they have pulled a link form the right side already. start saving your money and keep running it until it dies, then put new undercarriage on it . you might keep an eye out for a burned or wreaked machine with a good under carriage and save some coin.
I'm going to bet almost new tracks and wore out rollers and sprocket segments. Bob
So would everyone agree that this machine is job ready? I was told it was but it appears I wasn't told the truth
Well it is track job ready for sure lol....well technically if it moves it is job ready around these parts lol. Now job reliable that is a whole different story
Well I hope they at least gave you a kiss. Bob
Yep, just before they told you to drop your pants and bend over ............
You gotta hate it when they don't even use lube.
well if the salesman's lips were moving you should have known it was not going to end well for you
Is it just me, or does that machine appear to be the victim of a Krylon rebuild?
Hard to say, seller might not have wanted to pay for undercarriage. I guess it all depends on the price. Bad undercarriage doesn't necessarily mean the rest of the machine is bad.
Well a new cat is WAY more then 14k...so if rest of machine is good...it is just part of doing business....too bad the other guy got to keep the track reserve...we figure out a reserve per hour for maintenance...then we are ok...
Machine seems to run well, I paid 28k for it, don't think adding 14k will make it worth 42k though. Of course I relied on the machine being job ready, so may have to discuss with an attorney. I'll see how things go when it is, inspected.
A suggestion for you is to ensure that the PSSR gives you his report in pdf format as well as paper. Then post it here as an attachment so that everyone can have a look at it.
Should possibly have had the machine Cat or any reasonable technician evaluated prior to purchase. Saves a lot of doubts.
Maybe a few questions before you go the attorney route. First, did you purchase the machine sight unseen off the internet? Was it something you saw in a publication? Did you go look at the machine personally? Did you purchase the machine from a dealer or a private seller? Did your sales contract say "AS IS, WHERE IS"? Did you define the term "Work ready" with the seller? What is your background in buying and selling equipment? From the photos it is pretty obvious you don't know much about dozers and tracks, so why would you purchase this machine without consulting someone who does know about that stuff? It might seem like I'm picking on you but in reality I'm only asking the questions at attorney for the defendant would ask if this ever made it to court. What wasn't done is due diligence on the buyer's part. A quick check on MachineryTrader.com shows average auction at $18,600 and average retail asking at around $31,000. Top retail asking price is $42,000. Money was left on the table as far as the condition against purchase price. The money to be spent on purchase of a new undercarriage will have to be figured against the future income the machine can generate and not the anticipated sale of the asset after installation of a new undercarriage.
Almost impossible to go after the seller unless you can prove they grossly and misrepresented the condition of the machine and deliberately tried to deceive you. Inspection should have be done prior to purchase by someone experienced. Was the machine bought site unseen? That said, you could still have a very good machine.
Yep if it is more than 10k...i have it inspected
We will see how things go when it is inspected no since in jumping into things to fast.
Had it inspected waiting for the report, when I went out to move it the bottom right light and fault light came on, wondering if I need to change the filter or just put trans oil in appears low. Did say $9500 in parts The book has several different power train oils to SAE 10W, SAE 10W30, SAE 15W40, SAE 30 and SAE 40 which is best for my area?
For your location TO-4 SAE30 would be the appropriate oil. Use a good branded oil, not stuff from your local parts house. Regarding level are you checking it "per the book" with the transmission oil at operating temperature, engine idling, & transmission in neutral..? Your dipstick may have markings on both sides. If it has, then one side will be "Engine Stopped - Oil Cold" (what you should check before starting to make sure the machine is safe to start) and the other "Engine Idling - Warm Oil" or something similar. The second one is the more reliable level check. If you haven't changed the oil and filter since acquiring the machine now may be the time to do it, just so you know what you have.
Okay, I have both statements on my dip stick. They did some work on the machine when they put new pads on, I can see that they had the floor plate up, couple new bolts, I'm guessing they changed that filter but not sure, Gave me a 51798 oil filter and 51163 oil filter that was replaced but don't know what those filters are. See the 51163 is the same as 1R-0773 Cat Filter but they may have changed the Hydro filter
A 1798 is motor oil and 1163 is transmission. Cold oil will cause a filter indicator to flash until it warms up. Now could you start your story over from the beginning ? Thanks Bob
Those don’t sound like Cat Numbers. What brand are they..? Scratch that. Bob was typing at the same time I was.
Thanks I think the brand is Win or Wix? Is this the same filter used on the Hydraulic Oil Will cold oil also cause the Fault Alarm to go off?
Yes and yes. Bob
thanks
I got the CTS Report let me know what you think
The report lists the brand of chain as Sorefa which might explain why they didn't give you a percentage worn on it. However there is no excuse for not giving you are percentage worn on the idlers and bottom rollers. I'd have to say that if that is all Fabick is giving you for a report, they have a lazy product support salesman or it's indicative of how far they have fallen as far as product support goes. Did the person that did the measuring actually talk to you about what he did?
Yes, and he said he couldn't give a worn % because he didn't know how to compare them to Cat parts. Mentioned I could get by for a while if I took a link out, but he wouldn't put it out to work. A guy in the office gave parts cost of $9500, and said the links needed to be replaced, waiting on that report.
Yep they only measure cat parts around here. I personally go with everything aftermarket and everything new...also that way you can take a link out and run to destruction.... only problem with that is the pins usually break on a job..
I read it earlier and was maybe giving Fabick the benefit of the doubt in wondering whether the document had been uploaded from a smartphone and some of the contents had got "lost in translation"...? As an undercarriage report in its present form it stinks.....this is what one of ours looks like. Also back to the issue of the two filters. If you bought the machine "ready to work" did the seller tell you straight (or simply imply) that all the fluids and filters had been changed..? It just seems strange to me that there would have been a couple of filters "left over" from a full service. Are there any dates marked on any of the filters you can see indicating when they were last changed..?
I buy my filters by the case....so i do have "left overs".CAT throws a super deal on filters and oil sometimes....i got filters for years in some applications lol. But this machine i think should have went to auction....sounds like one of those basket cases. And wix is about cheapest filter out there.
Gave me a parts Replaced attached
Yep pads did look fairly new....when i did my u/c i kept my pads... Sorry about your luck.... Only thing you could have him on is the tensioner being way out of spec on one side...that would not be work ready by any standards...unfortunately the rest would be subjective
That list screams DuPont overhaul to me. Also I don't see any fluids and filters on it anywhere.
Just list Air and Oil Filter on top of first page, but yes no fluids listed.
Cat CTS reports are now done complete on site. The report is generated as you use the ultrasonic probe data in the tool and then up link the tool to the cloud. Even the old tools had the capability to generate the report as soon as the tool was connected to a lap top with the software installed. The measurements also show the undercarriage is a mix and match. Likely that used parts were used to replace the most ugly ones on the machine. Used to see it all the time on the gray market machines.
So I'm guessing from everyone that the machine is not ready to be put to a days work? Mostly due to the track adjuster being fully extended? Waiting on a cost to take a link out of that side. Just don't know after that where it could do a full days work.
With rails at the extent of wear you have removing a link won't help much as likely to see a pin shear or a link fail or an idler to fail. If the previous owner installed new shoes with old bolts then expect a master link to splay when least need it to. This machine needs undercarriage less shoes plain and simple.
Is there a place I can compare the spec's of a new item with the measurements I have?
My d5 service manual has pretty much a big section for all that....but it will be different from your d4....wonder if the d4 manual has it
I was looking a spec for a Berco Link had link at .98 from top to bottom, If I'm looking at it right mine are .96 and .97
Hi James, Unfortunately, pulling a link out is a poor plan. Once the chains have guillotined as much as yours, pulling a link accelerates the destruction. You would be amazed at how soon you will be pulling the tracks off again. Pulling a link is just a waste of time imo. PM me with your email, I have a PDF of the CAT Undercarriage handbook. It is 800 pages of pure undercarriage porn. Everything there is to know about the boots on that machine of yours.
In years gone by with Dry pin rails we would 'Trim' lower roller flanges and weld up idler faces while extending track tensioners too tight to get the last little bits of life from UC, the newer machines do not have the extra meat to get away with that these days.
I see in my CTS Report that my frame extension is out 3.9 inches I'm guessing this is the Track Adjuster? He has the Maximum set at 3.4 However, the manuals I have looked at have the Maximum at 3.9. Can I run my machine at 3.9 without causing damage to it?
You sure can, and you can measure it yourself to check their measurements. Its as simple using a tape measure to measure the gap between the heavy yellow weldments, in front of the chrome adjuster. Very straightforward to check for yourself. Personally, I wouldn't go beyond the 3.9". I think its safe to run up to it though.
The side pins in the track frame with prevent you from going beyond the maximum extension. What will happen is the idler will bounce back and forth just a little and make imprints on the slot on the inside of the rod. That can give you all kinds of problems when you do go to rebuild the undercarriage. That brings up another issue on your cost to replace. You will need to rebuild the track adjusters so make sure that cost is in mind as well.
Thanks and thanks for the manual The Serial #9DB01596 didn't think Cat parts would be that much cheaper up there. I figure they just raised the Canadian price to match ours
I have a track manual and went back to compare what is in your report against what is written and the report makes no sense at all. The small grayed out numbers below what should have been a measurement don't correspond to anything in the book. The only measurement given is for the top roller and the percentage worn is wrong. You might check for someone else that does aftermarket undercarriage in your area. As to running your machine for a couple of days I would say that should be no problem depending on what you are doing. If you are working flat or up and down a slope you shouldn't have any problems. If you are working a side hill I'd suggest you better have a real good operator. You need to shake the machine down for other issues as well as the undercarriage. I have measured hundreds of machine undercarriages and track systems and only a few things in your photos raise alarm bells. I've seen a lot worse still making money.
Can you tell me what raises alarms besides the Track Adjuster?
The side wear on the flanges of the front and rear idlers indicates a possible broken bearing on the equalizer bar and excessive play in the pivot shaft bushings in the track frames. All that means that the track frames might be moving side to side or tipping sideways when going forward or in reverse.
is there anyone near him that can inspect and do oil samples on his cat, it sounds like it might be time to cut loses and send it packing, just my 2 cents
Which Fabic do you deal with? did they charge you for the Track assessment? ....im in MO and have a D4hxl3 that is needing new shoes for sure...would be good to get a understanding on the rest of the assembly
I am a little curious about post number 16. You posted an image that shows the entire machine from the right side. The machine is sitting cross slope on a sidehill. How pronounced is that sidehill and do you wind up working cross slope a lot? I agree everything that has been said. If you are going to "run it to destruction" try to avoid cross slope. Sometimes you have to do it. It should however start a warning bell in your mind that sounds a lot like a cash register totaling groceries.
The service is free, at least AFAIK. If you contact your dealer and ask to speak to the PSSR (Parts & Service Sales Rep) who deals with undercarriage. Give him the impression that you're in the marlket for a complete undercarriage replacement and ask for the whole system to be measured.
I believe last time the local checked with Fabick STL they were starting to charge a fee for this.
Sorry haven't been on for a while, They came out and did it for free
i would be curious what you end up doing and the costs involved if and when you make your decisions
It appears I have about a 3 inch crack half moon shaped on my front idler? Any ideals what would cause this? Are if it could be welded without take it off? Also the Idler has JS 3700 on it and I don't see that number matching Part numbers? Could they swap Idlers from another model?
An aftermarket one matching the rest of the aftermarket undercarriage on the tractor would be my best guess.
Guess your referring to the part number? Is it normal to get a crack in the idler like this? I'm guessing they painted over it so it wouldn't be seen when they put it for sale.
Poor quality material maybe..? I've heard anecdotal evidence of idlers "exploding" when welding repairs were attempted due to the pressure inside the hollow shell. Never seen it myself though.
What's the negatives to welding it up?
Will need to drill a vent hole, drill absolute ends of crack then grind it V. Weld and allow to fully cool then daub weld the drilled vent hole. Likely something as to the internal face of that idler, could be a thin spot from corrosion in which case trying to weld it will fall away. Weakened too far and will catastrophically fail in side stress.
I did work experience in a shop that used to build up idlers 24/7 with the sub-arc process. They cut about a 3" hole in the side of the idlers so they wouldn't build up with pressure from the intense heat of welding. You could always tell if an idler had been built up if it had the plug welded back on the side. I welded a crack in a ripper frame and it cracked on cooling for the same reason. I should have left a small bit un-welded until it cooled and then finished it. It's not much different than a car tire gaining pressure after driving but with the welding there is 100 times the heat input and 100 times the pressure build up. I don't think drilling a vent would provide a fast enough release of the pressure. The crack in the new idler is odd.
pardon my ignorance.....these idlers are a hollow unit? .....casting? ...steel? ..forged?...ductile iron??...
Believe they are hollow casting machined smooth.
Can I use a TO-2 in this machine? I believe that was what was use when it was new?
This crack looks like it may of been from a 3" hole, the idler appears to have a lot of meat on it, was wondering if this could be the patch from a drilled hole cracking?
Some idlers are cast and some are welded assemblies. The idler in question doesn't look like it was built up but maybe it was and then painted. However if the crack is because a plug was cut out and welded back in and then ground flat, they did an unbelievable job fitting the plug back in perfectly. I don't think a drilled hole would crack like that. Any idea what brand of idler it is? The crack could be ground out and welded on the machine though. A 3" weld isn't going to cause any problems like the hundreds of inches continuous welding will on a closed in structure.
Could I operate it with this crack? And if the crack continues as a circle it seems it could be a patch though? It was painted and understand no sign of brazing. Have no idea what brand all I see is the JS 3700. Also there is a leak on the hydraulic cylinder to the blade on one side. Is this a big job?
You are correct, TO-2 was the specified oil when the machine was new. However you may struggle to get TO-2 oil today, almost 20 years after TO-2 was superseded by TO-4 which has a higher performance specification.
Yes I know the TO-2 is obsolete, but there are cheaper oils that meet the TO-2 spec's, with the wear of a machine 30 years old, don't know if using a TO-4 would really help the machine much?
If you can still get TO-2 where you are it’ll work just fine. It may be worth pointing out at this time that good quality oils & filters are probably the cheapest insurance you can buy, even with a machine the age of yours.
Is it a big job to replace seals on a hydraulic cylinder?
First the cylinder would need to be removed and held securely. How are you fixed for tooling to unscrew the head (#9) or the bolt holding the piston in place (#4)..? If you are short on tooling Plan B might be to remove the cylinder yourself, take it to a hydraulic shop, and have them reseal it for you.
Guess that depends on tooling required? Would a big pipe wrench, work on the head? And vise for holding the piston while taking off nut?
A chain wrench would be better. Because the jaws only have bite in a couple of small areas a pipe wrench would tend to crush the collar and might even cause it to bind up on the threads of the cylinder. If that happened it would neither come off nor go back on and the only option would be to cut it off.
You could run the idler with the crack but you risk the crack growing larger and potentially causing further damage and you don't water and dirt getting in the idler. Even if you had to hire a welder to grind the crack and weld it, it is less than 30 minutes work. Just make sure to put the ground clamp directly on the idler on clean bare steel.
Well went out to inspect it a little better, looks like the back left idler has a crack running about 8 inches, along the lip with about a 1 inch chip out of it. don't think I could weld it to, use until I can do a overhaul? Don't think this machine was ever job ready!
So far as the blade angle cylinder repacking...yes you can do it yourself. But your going to need a Huge chain wrench to loosen the end cap. Not only a chain wrench but a 8-10ft. cheater pipe too. I first raised the blade and tilted it so the problem cylinder is positioned as high and extended as it can be. Make sure you have your blade blocked up!. Next i unpinned the problem cylinder from the blade and left it attached at the base. Now you can uncap it and pull out the rod and piston. Have someone operate the hand control so you wont fight suction from hydro oil. You will loose some oil but not much. Replace all your seals and reinstall the piston and rod ass.(you will need to remove piston from the rod to get all seals replaced) You will need someone holding the hand control valve open so you can push the rod/piston back into the cylinder and not fight back pressure. Not too hard a job after i got mine uncapped (10ft cheaper pipe) maybe yours will not be as stubborn as mine.
If you unhook the hoses connected to the cylinder barrel the rod and piston with worn seals will slide right out. Getting them back in sometimes can be a little more difficult.
I regularly repair(reseal) cylinders .... big ones i just take off and take them to a hydraulic shop......medium ones i tend to repair on machine if possible......small ones i usually take off and do in my shop......its not a hard job on any size ...other than just dealing with the size,weight, etc of the cylinders/rods.......as mentioned before you have to be able to hold one end solid while working on it...and looseing the glands ..nuts etc is all realated to size.......if your not used replacing seals its good to learn on a smaller cylinder ...
Taking the gland off is almost always the most difficult part for many DIYers and I second the use of the chain wrench. Once you have it apart it is fairly straight forward. You'll have to exercise caution on which direction you place some seals. Other than that, you'll typically just want to match up the seals you have pulled out to the ones in the kit. There are some handy resources that can help you if you don't have a service manual: https://hwpartstore.com/blogs/tips/cylinder-seal-installation-diagram You can always use Cat's parts site for finding some diagram for your cylinders: https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/PartLookup
Few questions, How big of chain wrench will I need? Is a C-24 Ridgid big enough? My hydraulic low/full peek hole is dirty or clogged, can I get to it if I pull the filter out to where I can clean it, so that I can get a good reading on it?
no c24 not near big enuff. You need at least the c36in its rated to handle pipes 4.5 -7.5in. I used a 24in and broke it in less than a minute. i doubt you can clean the site glass for the hydro tank from inside. i figure pressure washing it from outside should clear it up to be able to read it. For me i could read mine better at night shining a hi power 5000k LED flash light at it from different angles. some even talk about pouring dye into the hydro oil to see it better.
Thanks Have a newbie question, lol Do I fill the hydraulic oil for cylinders while engine is running?
Will want if OFF then crack the cap loose and leave vent a bit to then check level, unless enjoy hot oil spray. System pressurizes slightly in use. If speaking of initial fill after a drain, fill to a level mark, start and have second person watch, as soon as level drops shut engine down top off, do that until stable level LOW end of level. Close it up operate to get warm, shut it down and vent off then check/add to normal.
Have to thank JY for info as could not remember if the old Cat hydraulics pressed up when got warm, felt bad asking.
Okay I want to purchase a good impact driver to use on this machine, and if a 40 or 50 ton hydraulic jack would be big enough to lift this machine without problems?
What are you figuring to drive? As to the jacks, I use two twenty tonners on my Allis7G no issues, just have to use bigger jack stands, minimum 10 tonners on the corners due to side loading when raising.
Changing sprockets, idlers, rollers, taking pads off, etc... Don't know the weight of your machine the D4H is like 25,000 lbs. What do you mean due to side loading when raising? Guessing you have to support the side your not raising?
As you jack your machine up it most likely will not be flat and level as it goes up, as angles change and the weight changes it can shift much of the machine weight to one or two support stands, better to fault to conservative than have one fold up. A lot on here will opt to Hytorc hydra torque machines, hydraulic drive torque controlled socket drives as they are about the most reliable to break stubborn fasteners loose. Having a short shank 1" drive Air is not out of the question but will need the larger diameter hoses and a good two stage compressor to feed it volume, and Hytorc units can be rented as needed instead of just paid for and laying around. Much of the final drive mechanism will be press on/off as well where again hydraulic driven equipment not so much a necessity for the tool box but knowing who rents is an absolute necessity. My old Allis is roughly 23,000+/- dependent on attachment installed and what I have already removed.
So I'm guessing just having a standard 3/4 or 1 inch impact driver won't do? I see the equipment and tools you recommend are costly, do you have an ideal on what they may rent for? Are who may rent around Popular Bluff area.
You can handle anything on a D4H with a 1" drive impact wrench and a twenty ton jack. You can probably handle anything on that machine with a 3/4" impact and enough air.
I was looking at a Ingersoll Rand 3/4" Drive Impact Wrench- 1,350 ft-lbs MAX Torque believe it operates at 90 psi. would this do the job or do you think I would run into problems?
It will work fine as long as you can buy sockets that will take the pounding.
Have any recommendations regarding sockets that will work on this impact wrench?
I have my own old 1" Ingersol, it is a Tire gun but has enough hammer to tear into what I have. The sockets available from any manufacturer as Impact in 1" and 3/4" drive will last the average user a LONG time, if using day in day out working with them Snap On, MAC, Ingersol's own breed, are a few others but not many will take that beating for long. Just stated still cheaper than replacing that SnO or MAC socket when you have to have one and that one IS broken awaiting the tool truck. Caution using Chrome sockets on impacts, first it eats the square on the gun second when they break they tend to shatter as are harder than impact sockets and generally thinner wall. I used to rent locally but have not in some time for Hytorc unit at an Ofallon MO tool rental. Many times they had to figure who STILL had one out to get it back for my use.
Thanks
never used a jack on mine....used blocks under the frount blade and rear rippers (to raise n lower)......used blocks under frame also..... for oil changes etc....i just drive it up on a long stack of wood 2 x 12s
My loader will lift the front, just nothing in the back to raise it so use 20Ts in the rear to get that end off the grade.
When end up like this have to raise it to get parts back on, it is great having Old Junk!! Another Blowout had to stop and fix! Snakey bustards.
Have a question, My D4 won't start, clicks when I turn the ignition, can hear right behind me on my left side by battery click. But won't turn over, I have charged the batteries no effect, thinking might be solenoid? But not sure though I would ask around, see if there is something else I need to check. It has been starting good. Any idea's??
First checks is Voltages at Battery/Starter, when just sitting and when turn the switch or hit the button, a Bad Cable or connection can do as much.
Batteries are 13 volt, how do you check volt at starter? pos. to ground?
Is there a way to jump it like the old days, with a screwdriver?
Do the voltage checks FIRST, undervoltage from a bad cable, bad connection or a poor connection thru a solenoid can lead to a LOT of other problems. Volts go down AMPS Ramp UP to compensate to make the same level of power, AMPS are HEAT. Voltmeter, Check POS Cable V at battery to Grd, last connection to go out to starter then check at hot post On Starter, needs to be Within .5v of Battery v at Starter. Next up one multimeter lead to POS cable at Batt other multimeter cable to Hot Post on starter, need to see that as a NO CHANGE "0" as if shows a voltage there is a problem Same for Negative Cable, should show NO voltage. Voltmeter check with someone getting the 'Click', first at Battery P-N should see Battery V if not feeding forward, SAME at Starter Hot Post to GRD If goes hard LOW V at Battery then the starter could be locked, If Remains at Battery at Both ends then find the 'Click' mechanism, if is a secondary solenoid will have Two Large Terminals, One Hot the other Not until engages, then BOTH should go hot, the other end of that output cable will be the small terminal at the Starter Motor Solenoid, it had better show hot of the at small relay shows hot or wire is broken corroded in two, damaged. The other possible is a NEUTRAL Lock Out Switch much as a clutch switch, you will need a schematic to find it. Will need TWO people to do most of these tests, one at Multimeter one on switch.
Thanks, I'll see what I can find out.
Okay, just developed a new problem. If I raise my front end by the blade, Hydraulic Fluid spurts out by the back of hydraulic cylinder like a relief valve maybe? Looks like coming from under floor base?? Sound familiar to anyone??
Have another issue. That should just hold pressure if trying to lift machine. Looked for cracked fitting or perforated hose.
there are a handfull of thru wall hydraulic fittings that most of the frount hydraulic hoses mate to right where your talking about
I could see it spray out from where the fittings are, will have to get someone to watch where it is coming out from, but it appears to be spraying around the back ot the engine as well, causing the engine compartment to smoke, guessing it is getting around the manifold.