We are replacing the four hydraulic hoses that run inside the blade arms. There is a "hose block" that I assume protects the hoses as they exit the arm. It is broken. It's made out of a fibrous material. Good chance I wouldn't find one, so... if we make one, what material would you recommend? A high density poly-something? Is aluminum to ridged? Would the plastics (like; UHMW?) Handle the heat? What do you think, in a mild climate would that hydraulic fluid rise to (in a few hours of running)? And any good advice on getting those new hoses through? I'm hoping to pull them through. I welded a nut on to caps I got for the fittings, so I can run nylon rope through the nut and pull the hoses through. Sure a tight fit. We had to cut one to get them out. Thanks! (early 1980's 350 case)
Welcome to the Forums IM! Not a mechanic, never played one on TV and didn't sleep in a Holiday Inn last night so I'm leaving this one to the experts.
A few pictures would help. I would make the cover out of mild steel or whatever you have laying around. If you are worried about abrasion on the hoses you can always use a sleeve. Not sure of the exact temperature for hydraulic oil but I would guess no more than 180 F. I've always tied a rope to the hose before removal and then you tie the new hose to the rope and pull back through.
It sounds like the material is there to keep the hoses from chafing on the steel, mostly. I'd cut a section of tire sidewall and wrap it around the hoses at that point. Bolting it to the steel might be the best way to keep it in place, or a large hose clamp around the whole bundle.
Thanks! The temperature was my only concern for just replicating the part out of Plastic/nylon. Using a 3/4" thick piece drilling then sliced it into the iconic three pieces (that enables you to capture the hoses separately and hold them in place gently). I'll try a picture... my internet is pretty slow. As for pulling hoses through this tight passage starting at 90 degrees; I think the plan we have of using these caps, now with "eyes for the ropes" welded on them, is a good plan. Any experience with staggering them and pulling them through all at once? Or, one at a time?
I'd try staggered all at once first. Pressure wash and clean the area as best you can. Protect the threads/fittings and cap the ends to keep the crud out. I'd also have a bottle of dish soap handy to let everything slide better.
Yep, I welded "eyes" on caps for the ends. Pressure washer! Of course! Oh wait, no water. But I was thinking about making a scraper out of thin plate and round stock for scraping the insides. And I wondered if staggering them and even wrapping them in plastic, with dish soap might work? Thanks! We got the hoses back today, 6 altogether, $800.00 Not bad.
So... I wasn't in on the removal of the hoses, but studying the manual I see there is a window in the blade arm where you feed the hoses in, and down,. Therefore, they make that sharp turn, then have to turn a 90 degree corner (5 feet later, or so) before they get to another window where you fetch them out. The arm is caked inside with fluids and dirt. I thought of running a brush back and forth on a nylon rope, but around a corner, in and out of "windows"? Even pressure washing would be hard to point down the inside of the arm. And where does the debris go? Maybe past the "other" window to the other arm? So stuff that opening and have a vacuum ready? Should one soften the mud with Dawn and water? Then try to drive it out with air or a whatever pressure washer on could be rig up (because of no running water)? Or should I put a pump in first (not huge big deal) and run some hose up to the dozer? Hmmmm I want to cut another window in the arm, and just weld a piece of 3/8" back on, but I don't have power, either, and I'm not sure that's a good idea. Unless I hire a portable welder. ?? But still, cut into the arm?
Post some pictures. Do you already have a rope fed all the way through ready to tie the lines to? Can you cap the blade lines to get it loaded and moved to somewhere where you have better facilities to work on it? You could also just route them out of that channel till you can get it somewhere else.
Somewhere else, might have to happen. I think we're going to try rotor rootering down the inside of the arm. Which means the rope in there now has to come out, and then we have to figure out how to get a new one back in. lol If the rotor rooter goes in far enough, maybe I can hook a rope on it as we pull it back through. I think if it is clean it will help a lot. Thanks!
I'm 2 hours from the dozer, so the only pictures I have are the manual. But imagine a U shape, only square. The two sides are the blade arms, then across the front. Facing the cab is a say 3x6" window. They go in/come out here, but travel across half the front of the square tube around a 90 degree corner down the length of the arm and come out another window on top, at the back of the arm, also a small window. Anyway, I think a clean tube will be 1/2 the battle. Thanks!
I wouldn't pull the rope out for fear it may be a real PIA to get something back through. Route the stuff externally so you can move the machine and get it to somewhere where you have power and water.