Since the used market is outrageous, I'm tackling building a hydraulic drill for core drilling. Prospecting. Got most of it sorted out, just need a good hydraulic pump, and motor for the drill. It is going to be somewhere in the 25-30hp range I can't afford more, unless a larger engine comes my way. I would like in a perfect world a nice variable displacement piston pump, which would allow me slow speed and torque for casing, then high rpm for drilling. It is only 2" and 3" core but 100ft+ and there is lots of clay, and with a variable pump I would have to go higher psi I think. I would like to stick below 3000psi, slow speed ideally 200rpm like an auger, and fast speed about 1000rpm. I can email use a skidsteer hydraulic auger for slow speed, but once I get to bedrock I need high speed, 900-1200rpm. That's where I get lost, I can't find a good affordable setup I can do both. I was doing the math on 2stage pumps like in logsplitters as it would almost be ideal and cheap enough, but they're rated for very little horsepower. I thought of using a 2 speed motor from a skid steer but there is not enough of a speed difference between high and low. What suggestions do you all have? My one idea was to take a small garden tractor or compact tractor of about 35 horsepower and run the hydraulic pump off of the transmission output. That way I could have four different speeds and only use one simple pump and motor. The small Kubota g series garden tractors would be great if they had a bit more horsepower. Or a small car like a chevette.
@Georgia Iron I think he was building some kind of drill rig.
The type of bit on the drilling end would be the most important. I had a 1 ton truck with an auger do perculation test holes when I sub-divided. It was neat rig but didn't turn all that fast.
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HeavyEquipmentForums Here is a link to the setup I am working on for drilling a water well. Your two speed requirement will be interesting to achieve, I had to stop working on my project for a bit. I refuse to have the well drilled so for now I am going without water until I finish my rig and test it. I am in the process of building an assembly that will stop the vertical load from the drill stem going into my hydraulic motor but into the steel frame. My motor will also reverse, which if that happens while the string is in the hole the drill stem will separate. I have considered blocking off the reverse circuit so that I don't do that in the middle of using it.
KISS Use cheap gear pump/motors, vary the speed by pressure regulator and engine rpm Btw when I drill inside of casing on oil wells is like 70-110 rpm
Pin on extensions would allow you to reverse the auger if it got stuck. Just make sure the pins have a cotter pin or something to contain the pin. I had to use my backhoe to pull a lost auger out when they did perculation test holes. Thankfully it was only down about 5' from the surface. I've also had an auger get stuck with my skid steer. It's not fun trying to get a stuck auger out! I learned to keep going up and down to keep the auger loose in the hole. If it starts to slow down stop down pressure and pull up. Not being able to reverse you're likely to invent some new cuss words when you can't get the auger out.
Now I'm wondering if I'm going to wake up some morning and decide to build a drill rig.
To achieve the low speed grunt you need your going to need a drill head with a gear box just make the motor spin in a certain rpm range and ratio it with gearing it will be far more reliable and have a lot more torque on the low end I watched clay stick a decent sized drill setting surface casing you need lots of torque and a hydralic motor is not going to give low speed torque and make the high speed your looking for with direct drive and you definitely need high speed Your gear box is going to need a chuck with either a good bull prik for fluid or an open chuck to have a kelly bar and swivel then you also need to set up a bean pump for fluid
Originally I wanted a Winkie 15 drill, has a 10hp two stroke engine, a 2 speed gearbox. Raising and lowering is done with the chains. Second pic. But since they're either $$$$ or unobtainable, I got a Shaw backpack. It is 2 horse and drilled down to 30ft easy enough, but it has no torque, too easy to stall. So I took the Shaw idea and connected a 43cc one man auger, and we drilled down to 48 foot in clay. I am running out of water pressure, there is a flow problem in my water swivel. image post Before doing the post hole auger, I bought the General dig-r 550 like in picture, the trailer one, it has an 8hp Tecumseh. I like the idea but it is HEAVY for taking into the bush and crossing streams. Not fast though, so likely only good for overburden. The drill pipes I have are 2" OD so likely won't need a crazy amount of torque under normal conditions, but I've had the post hole auger stall. And we're not near bedrock. Why I want so much torque is 2 years ago I was drilling, and the bit got jammed 18' in the ground. I was pulling bit up with my atv winch, back tire in the air and me twisting with a long pipe wrench to break it free. I like the Chinese drills, but advertised price is nowhere near real price. Checked a few, the 2000 is for deposit and any basic drill is about 8000usd plus shipping, and it is still Chinese quality. So here I am looking to build one. Vertical up and down, using a vertical logsplitter made longer like a post splitter, but replace cutting head with hydro motor. Then I just need more power
I have two 2" bits, one is fluted to remove soft material, the other is a 2" core but. I have 120' of AQ smooth drill pipes
An auger would work, has worked, but for drilling into bedrock I was told I would need 800-1200rpm If I could take a hydraulic auger, and turn the planetary gears into a high/low 2 speed transmission, all my troubles would be solved
I have proper drill pipes used in mining industry, but they don't lock together. Hence why I want crazy torque to keep spinning bit, and 6-8 tons of lifting force to pull it out
I don't want to lose engine speed to very drill bit speed, if the hole gets tight I need the torque to power through. Only way I could do that is with a big engine, and that's heavy to drag into the woods. When drilling oil wells, you put casing in with like a core bit? How fast do you drill the case?
A few questions. I am assuming you are testing the ground for a mineral or ore. How do you want to bring the lose material to the surface. Are there any special requirements. Do you use a machine to move the drill around? If so what is it? How far into rock do you need to drill? How much weight can you move around. How fast do you need to drill the holes. How often will you drill a hole? Winkie GW-15 drill for sale Winkie GW-15 for sale. Very good condition, runs excellent. Ready to go drilling. Lots of extras www.juniorminers.com
It's like 30 HP, I don't drill oil wells I only drill inside of casing on wells that have been already drilled. When they drill a well they drill to bottom pull out and in casing.
The core drilling I was involved with at a mine we were going to purchase was drilled through rock to a depth in the low 400-s. 2" cores. 900+ rpm sounds crazy to me. I'd revisit this issue by starting with the core bit and determining what it's rated for. Bits aren't cheap and there's no use building a machine that's designed to destroy them.
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I'm hoping to take core samples. I came up with a method yet to be implemented to make my own wireline core removal. Only going down 200 feet How much weight can I move? I don't know. I can maybe upgrade to a compact tractor, I have a argo 8x8 with some gnarly dozer tracks, a pretty good atv. I can also make up a portable winch and pull from Freese if need be. I do want to get a 2ton excavator How fast to drill, won't know till I get to bedrock. Clay goes easy enough I just need more water. What I need is to put in casing so I can not fight the clay, but that is expensive. If Sono tubes were cheaper I would try it. I went down 48' in about 20 minutes, slow and steady. For rock I have a 7 hardness "turbo" bit that should work for a while How often, I would like to drill at least 2 to 200 feet. If I could do 2 more across the river I would be happy. Canadian Nickle mine just started opening land 8 miles from me I'd like to prove this land and make them buy me out
Yes, but it would never make it down the valley floor, let alone over the creek and up the other side. My Deere 693 converted to excavator sank up to the cab twice.
I contacted the manufacturer to verify speed and down pressure. This was a random rock I found in the clay, had it analysed from the assay we got back 2900ppm copper, 10-25 ppm molybenum, arsenic, 90 ppmcobalt and zinc, 900ppm nickel in one core and 4200 in other They gave me the bit they thought best for this mix
Guess you have it dialed in, but I still have a hard time getting my head around a hundred feet of drill stem turning 900 rpm. Feels like a rock drill. Thinking about the heat it's going to generate, the wear on the drill stem, the load on your hydraulic system and what's happening to the core inside the drill stem. I suppose you could look at commercial drills to see how they deal with these problems during your design phase.
What are you running for a head?
It does sound scary, yes. I had 27' spin 1100 with only 2 horsepower and no problem. This one I'm building is AQ pipes and LTk48 bit. Only 2" OD and 1.25 core. Shouldn't be too hard. Will know more monday
Homemade water swivel, and working in a thrust bearing setup.
You're building your own drillhead?
Most diamond drills are turning between 1,200-1,400rpm, and depths of 1,500 meters and deeper are pretty common
Yes
That's what I remember reading
Manufacturer confirms that 800 to 900 is target rpm for this bit