My throttle linkage was out of adjustment so I tightened it up at the injection pump. I noticed it had more rpms like it should but the inching peddle decelorator , you use to push it down about an inch before it deceled the engine. Now as soon as you push it even a 10th of an inch it decels. The turbo does not sound like its working like it was. The turbo is working I think , you can hear it whistle when you start and coast down when you shut it off. I always let it run and cool down after working it. My question is do I have to adjust both the decel pedal and throttle at the same time. And by adjusting only one did it cause the linkage to apply the decel pedal slightly? Filters are clean , air , fuel and sediment strainer. Whats up with this?
there should be adjustments on the injection pump, under the floor under the pedal kinda behind the motor and for the hand control next to the operators seat. i monkeyed with a 38 that had problems like that and it turned out someone got into the adjustments and it wouldn't hardly idle and didnt have any power, then someone tried to fix it and it ran ok but the idle was way too high and would klunk in and out of gear. just take your time and adjust a little at a time watching your idle and full throttle.
Had to shorten the return spring on decal on mine, got to be to much of a pain to hold down while doing close work. When you check engine rpm s fan pulley turns about 10% slower than crankshaft.
I have the correct procedure to adjust all this coming on disc , Now the big question, I need some trans oil, is 10w motor oil as the same, do I get Komatsu oil ,or 10w cheveron ursla. Additives the same? I need to run about 20 hrs then repair a little leak in the steering control.
Found my problem , the decel pedal and brake have a rod inside of a tube one works the brake the other the decel. It had gotten all gunked up and was holding in on the decel. I gained 300 rpms. Sounds normal now. When you hit a pile instead of bogging and feeling lazy it gets a nice exhaust tone .