Hi everyone I just purchased a 1995 international 4700 with the DT466 Diesel Its got around 170,000 miles on it with a 20' deck & an 095 HIAB knuckle boom picker I am meticulous about basic maintenance, but im not a mechanic & dont have a whole lot of experience with bigger trucks. Is there anything specific mechanically i should watch out for with this model truck? Any absolute do or dont's? Ive read good things about these trucks & i hope this rig will last me long enough to make my money back & some Any advise on upkeep or experience with these model trucks would be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance Nick
Regardless of what the previous owner told you, change the oil, oil filters, air filters, and fuel filters. I would also drain the air tanks if it has them, check the tire pressures, and check every single light to see if it works. If you look long enough, you will find things that need fixed. Also, clean your battery terminal posts. I'd bet a dollar that they have deposits starting on them.
Research DCA and coolant system maintenance. Cheep life insurance for DT's.
DT466 or DT466E? Big difference. As RNR stated, change fluids and filters. And yes DCA adjustment is absolutely critical to prevent cavitation. If it's a 466E with electronic fuel injection, you may want to look at synthetic blends like rotella 5w40. The injectors are HEUI's and don't tolerate varnish and sooting. Both engines, I believe , have a sediment bowl prior to fuel filter its tucked back aways on drivers side back towards starter. 1" x 2" or so iirc. Just twist her off by hand. Clean that out real good. Never allow fuel to run out. Injector tips tend to fail without fuel to cushion pintle. Check water pump pulley for play periodically, they are weak. When they fail, the eat up the inner gear case. No fun there. Manual or automatic? 2 speed rear or single? Juice or air brakes? Springs or air ride? Single axle or tandem? Yes i've seen DT's drive tandems. Ive always like the old S-series and the later 4700 4900's , good trucks
So you have experience with HEUI systems operating better with synthetic blend and or pure synthetic oil?
Not so much running better, just more foregiving when you run past service intervals. Since pressure can reach up to 18k i believe in HUEI's , every little bit helps.
Its The DT466 Not the DT466E Automatic Juice for brakes Springs i believe Single axles Im not sure what you mean by 2 speed rear or single? I will check the sediment bowl right away and am going to put new coolent in her as well
You have as solid a platform as they come. DT with pump line and nozzle , there's almost nothing to worry about if you properly maintain it. They will run with almost no compression, they're so reliable. I would be careful pushing the limits of hydraulic brakes. I would also inspect brake lines end to end. Replace any hose or pipe that even gives you the slightest doubt. You're gonna have a trailer and implement behind you, right? I'd service that trans right away. Sample the oil and have someone competent interpret the results. Is the pto off the trans or in front of the radiator? Pto propshaft that passes through the radiator always have neglected u-joints. Close inspection called for there. 20 ft deck means 1 maybe 2 carrier bearings on resr propshaft. Check em over, no torn rubber insulators, no sloppy u joints. Do you have outriggers for the crane? That will make checking your springs a walk in the park. Just raise the frame and watch your torque leaf. Make sure it doesn't dance around. Make sure, no broken or shifted leaves in the spring pack. Tap your u-bolts with a ball pien hammer, they should have a tight ring, it should not sound like punching a sandbag. 2 spd axles were just that. An electric motor on the side of the pig would change ranges with the flip of a switch on the shift lever. You had to split every gear, and they were fragile.
Two different types of coolant are suitable, SCA (or DCA4) "precharged", "Peak Fleetcharge". Or ELC like "Peak Final Charge" or Cat ELC-1.
ELC is a special blend for CAT equipment. In the 90's both Cummins and Navistar were having problems keeping their cooling systems sealed up. This was traced back to ELC. There was something in the ELC that was disagreeable to the spaghetti like seals between gear case halves and water pump seals. So much so the Cummins engine co issued a statement to all manufacturers, to stop using any other coolant than ethylene glycol w DCA inhibitors. Any future warranty requests would be denied if ELC was used.
Thanks for the info. So NO ELC. There's still two different types of SCA's, fleetguard calls them DCA-2 (conventional) and DCA-4 (Fleetguard's own recipe). They each have their own test strips, and ideally shouldn't be mixed.
When i worked for navistar, we used green coolant with DCA4. Best of luck. Did you find the sediment bowl?
Thank you for sharing that. I lost some water pumps after switching while replacing hoses and such. I don't switch them over anymore unless the water pump is replaced at the same time. I have not had problems that way. Is that a bad idea anyway?
Really meant long term. Those Max Force DT's run much higher pressure. The difference in price for synthetic or a blend is not much compared to repairs.
Yeah, im pretty sure max force engines are common rail. So, of course , crazy high pressure. If you run synthetic rotella or even Delo youll be way ahead. Keep track of hours of operation vs miles. Vocational chassis cannot be maintained like OTR. 250 hr drain intervals should keep you on top for a long time. Cooling system vigilance and 2k hr drain on trans. Good luck.
Note taken on the brake system. I typically dont try to push my equipment & trucks the way i see some people do. Ill keep the weights respectable,. Ive already serviced the transmission & i plan on working on the coolant and sediment bowl tomorrow. Currently theirs green coolant in the truck. Ive already purchased new Heavy duty diesel coolant but its the purple stuff. Is it still okay to use?. I was told theres no difference but its best not to mix the two together. I will also inspect all the brake lines that i can find & springs using the out riggers. I believe the PTO is mounted to the transmission. Thanks Nick
On second thought im going to take that purple stuff back and get the green.
The only time it's safe to swap is during a major overhaul. Coolant embeds itself into the surface of all metals. Aluminum tends to shed these chemicals better than iron. If you ever pull a liner or cylinder head or even a water pump. You'll see the iron is coated. That coating helps the iron disperse heat into the coolant. Now say you add pink, purple or red that coolants gonna go by and not attract the heat from the iron. It actually promotes cavitation, and that is your enemy. There used to be sacrificial anodes they would screw in the bottom of the radiator, usually oppposite the drain cock. It helps disperse electrical charge in coolant to prevent electrolysis of radiator seems any water pump seals. Not many people know they are there. Another cheapie proactive solution. Good on you, for trying to take care of your equipment. BTW, I'm betting your knuckle's hydro system has never been serviced. Should be a good size spin on filter in line there somewhere. Also drain a couple gallons of hydro off the bottom of the tank. This will help get any water/dirt/sediment/sludge out of your tank. Remember to top it off . Check with mfr for what grease is recommended. Some have bronze bushings, some are steel, and i remember Palfinger using fibre, which were ridiculously long living. Good luck