Well, since I this is an ongoing saga and I have so much I'd like to do I figured a thread with a little more lattitude than just wiring or brakes would make it easier for me. I am going to post a few pictures of things I am working on. I finally made the decision to remove the engine and replace the clutch. Hopefully, nothing is too badly worn that I'll have to go further. I am going to purchase some new heim joints for the loader and tranmission linkages. I want to tighten some stuff up, it's kinda floppy. LOL I purchased the backhoe because I have some work to do around the house and this will make it much easier and I won't have to rush and rent and hope for good weather. I will be able to do things on my own sechedule. I don't know how long I plan to keep the backhoe, we'll see. I am taking my time developing a plan but I am excited about all the cool stuff I'll be able to do. I'm gonna use every aspect of this thing, portable crane, loader, digging, man-lift, fork lift....... oh yea. I just retired in June and am tired of physically handling everything. This machine should really make my life easier and much more efficient.... then... I'll get my wife to operate it and Ill have even LESS stuff to do. Happy Birthday Baby, look what I bought ya !! LOL The pictures are of my contraption to raise the engine out of the way so I can get at the transmission, clutch and such. I have a pic of the top of the engine and one of a curious spring on the throttle assembly. I'll have to check into such things. I'm sure allot of hands have been on this machine but... it seems that the major stuff is where it should be. Cheers, Gene Pearl River, LA
make sure before removing the engine there is room to lower it to the floor without moving the now engineless machine, just a thought
I think you should put a decent size gusset plate on each of those pipes for added safety.
Never thought of lowering out the bottom. I just want it out of the way so I can get at the clutch.
Good observation !! I think it will be fine as is. If it seems flimsy when I get a load on it, I'll definitely take your advice. Thanks for the post up !! Good Stuff !
Okie Dokie, I pulled the engine out and out of the way. here are a few pictures. I'm replacing the clutch and I am trying to stop a seal leak. Looks like it is coming from between the trans. shafts. This oughta be fun. Good thing my labor is free and I have time. LOL.
Well….whatever you want to know about removing the engine, transmission seal replacement, how it looks inside the transmission, ask me quick before I forget. I have resources for the lip seals and O-rings and I’ll go ahead and replace the bearing at the front of the transmission as well, what the hey. I’m gonna try Napa to get the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. I have the engine hanging from my rig, resting a couple of 2 X 10s just to be safe. I was worried that I would not be able to replace the seal on the small shaft for the transmission but….they have a pretty darn good design. It would have been nice having a book, that would have saved me some tedious work. LOL I was concerned that I would not be able to replace one of the seals on the transmission shaft but.... not a problem. I can get at it easily. The clutch is chattering and I know the oil leaking on it is not helping. I had this problem on another tractor years ago...many years ago. I'm gonna order a book now that I don't need it. LOL. I need it though, torque values and such. Oh yea, If I have not mentioned it... the valves need adjusting... I might even pull the head and send it out for good measure. Touchdowns everyone !!
The 3 lip seals on the front of the transmission were a real pain in the butt to identify, the bearing also. I thought that numbers would be good being they were identifiable and readable. I have extensive resources for these kinds of parts. I could not believe, I had to measure evey aspect of these things, mic all the bores and shafts to get the proper numbers, even the Hoffman bearing. I am about to take a ride to pick up the parts. Looks like everything has arrived I ordered 2 of everything including the o-rings. TRANSMISSION SHAFT SEALS AND BEARING CR 382230 R91 ( 2.000" OD, 1.182" Shaft size, .250" Wide) Metric ( CR 11801) 398321-R91, also numbers 14938 stenciled on the seal (2.253" housing bore, 1.500" shaft size, .321" Wide) (14938 identified the proper part) No numbers on seal, (2.253" housing bore, 1.630" Shaft diameter, .317" Wide)________ I'll add this number in later on. CLUTCH – 11”, 10 splines on pressure plate, 10 splines on clutch disc Bearing for transmission input shaft - Hoffman number 145KR. Looks to me like a 209 single row deep groove standard bearing with a snap ring groove on the outside diameter. Measurements are: OD = 3.346” ID = 1.772” Width = .750” O-Ring on Face of housing cover to transmission. (ID 3.795”, OD 4.110”, Depth of counterbore for O-ring .090”) Matches up to a # 240 O-ring O-ring on housing bore to seal transmission (Groove ID 5.344”, OD of housing female part 5.600”, Depth of Groove .122”, Width of Groove .170”) Matches up to #253 O-ring Touchdowns everyone !! Gene
OK well, Hurricane Isaac is gone, yard is cleaned up. Still need to do some trimming and sprucing up that we missed during the storm. Changed the oil, installed and mounted the radiator, hoses, did some work tidying up the lines and replaced a bushing in the throttle linkage. Allot of little things, along with some painting. I wanted to get the old fuel out of the tank. I thought I saw some rust so I pulled the tank and cut a hole in it. Pulled a gallon of rocks and a little dirt out of the tank. Top and sides looke good, a little corrosion on the bottom. I'm gonna clean it up real good and reinstall it without coating anything This is the kind of stuff I run into. Glad it is nothing real bad but for sure, I'm doing some good stuff that could have bit me in the butt. I like doin it up rite !! I am also beginning to rewire the tractor so I am getting to the middle section. Still have plenty to do but at least parts are going back on instead of coming off. With the exception of the fuel tank. LOL Take Care, Gene Pearl River, LA
Parts going back on as opposed to coming off is a good thing.
I didn't mention that I noticed after installing the engine that there was no mounts from the rear axle to the front of the engine. The engine just sat on the radiator mounting bracket and the frame. Nothing to hold it steady or at the correct alignmen height. The pin that fit through the front axle and extended through the radiator mounting bracket was too short. I had some material and machined another one and installed it. It wasn't easy but I have allot of tools and can be quite creative even without the book. LOL I jacked up the engine and got it fitted as it should be. I figure, the pin being too short, perahps the mid mount brackets were removed and never reinstalled. I can't be sure though as I don't see any evidence. Basically, from the rear axle to the front there was NOTHING connecting the engine/trans. to the frame... it could move up or to either side and probably did when under load. That is now fixed up. In my painting escapade, I had allot of LOVE as in Lovebugs landing on my paint job but that was under the hood. Looks pretty good. Take Care, Gene
Yes it is. I reset the valves, then couldn't get the valve cover back on the tractor without removing 2 of the steel hydraulic lines in the engine compartment. It will take a bit of time wiring everything, then I'll install the brake system with a couple new hoses and clamps. Change the fuel filters after I get the tank welded and installed. I don't think I'm gonna put a fuel gauge on it. It's too easy to check with a rod or something. I'm doing some plotting with the steering wheel. I'm thinking of welding/mounting a cooler steering wheel to the OLD wheel, unless I can find one that fits pretty cheap Havin fun, Gene
Well, my patch ain't purty but I had to get into the tank and get the rocks and dirt out. I did a pressure test, no bubbles so I guess it'll be OK. The step was destroyed so after I repaired the step on the other side I copied it but, determined to use what I had on hand.... I cut some grating and made it fit. I plan on mounting the tank tomorrow and figuring how I'm gonna run the fuel line to keep it from damage when the going gets rough. Apparently that happens judging by the underside of this thing. I'm really getting a kick out of my meticulous nature with this thing. I like doing things once but I am definitely taking it futher than normal. I've been having this thing since May and I have yet to complete one repair I knew it needed when I got it home.. I keep finding more stuff as I go. Of course I'm cleaning and painting as I go so that kinda slows things down a good bit. Next on the list, fuel system, engine controls, wiring (I have a good bit of that done already) then the brakes and dash. Hmmm.... I'll have to rethink My time frame. And the beat goes on..... Touchdowns Everyone !!
It's alive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :drinkup I need a massage. Cheers, Gene
Good job on the step.
Thanks. I'm no welder. I was more worried about the tank patch leaking but it looks ok. Now I can concentrate on taking the slack out of the loader controls and fixing a few leaks. The biggest challenge I see is the swing cylinder. It has been very interesting so far. Everything I touch needs some attention. Definitely honing my skillz ... LOL Thanks for the support !! Cheers, Gene
I might have to post a picture on how I accessed the backhoe valve bank leak I had. Took quite a while for me to exactly locate the leak. I surely did not want to pull the valve bank or even disassemble it. It could have been ugly. I was thinking of cutting a hole in the mounting plate to see what the issues was. It looked like a plug was leaking. I didn't want to risk a fire or melting anything so.... I drilled a few holes, by the harderst, and worked them up to larger sizes. Then I used a die grinder to finish cutting out the section. I was able to pull the plug, clean it up, insert a new O-Ring and.... NO more leak !!! It was a bad one too. I'm happy about that one for sure. Next leak, gonna be a while before I start on that one... will be the Swing Cylinder. That one ain't gonna be pretty. I'll post some pictures on how I go about it. I'm gonna do some painting and assembly of the decking and such, hood etc.... I have done some work on this machine. Yes, I am putting the lights back on and I'll make sure they work, even if I never use them. Ha ha On the pictures, I haven't taken any full view pics so here they are. The one with the chair under the tree is my wife's safety officer position. She was keeping an eye on me today. I thought I might need a "firewatch" but I drilled the holes, not torch involved. Take Care, Gene
Yes I am going to remove my engine removal crane set up. LOL I've cleaned this machine so many times with the pressure washer, I gotta say, for a backhoe....it's spotless. Ha ha. Take Care, Gene
That's a nice old machine. Seems to be heavy enough to do real work but still small enough to store in the barn and keep looking good for years.
Thanks Dean. I still have a ways to go. I'm pretty much done with the big stuff all the way to the backhoe section. Getting stuff back to working as designed...well... that is the time consuming part. Take Care, Gene
I am thinking of taking some slack out of the backhoe operator levers. . If I take "half" the slack out it will be much better. I will most likely remove the linkage turn buckle adjusters, weld the holes up and drill new ones. Gonna be a bit of work as it has 4 X 2 = (8) end pieces. I have the time just lots of other thing's I want to do that don't have to do with the backhoe. Last week I drilled grease fitting holes in the actuator shafts for the linkage.... works smooth. I believe taking out more slack would make it easier for me to operate.
If you're talking about adjustable clevis rod ends, there are many places to obtain new ones and they're typically not terribly expensive. Far easier to replace them as opposed to welding holes and rebore. http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=48 As for cast bell cranks and such, I have drilled hole oversize and fitted sintered bronze bushings to get hole back to original size. http://www.nationalbronze.com/sintered.php
Wow !! Thanks. I was considering that (ordering new pieces) but not sure where to get them. Now I know someone out there is as anal as I am with regard to mechanical equipment, installing bushings and such. LOL Take Care
If I'm not mistaken, you can get those rod ends from places like NAPA, Grainger, web sources, any number of places, and they're generally not too expensive, just make sure you get new pins. As for fitting bushings, I've done it a number of times on pieces that are either expensive to replace, or are now either obsolete or hard to source replacements.
Well.... more of the same fun stuff. I am working on the swing cylinder. The bushing would not come out... reminded me of the real kinda work that is done in Machine shops. It took everything I could do to save the bushing and get it out in one piece. I do love it that I have so much stuff at home, I can Get R Done. The bushing was pushed in too far, the bolt used to lock the bushing was not engaged due to the bushing position (that accounts for the silly makeshift plate on top of the swing housing, they didn't want it to come out so they bolted a plate on top) . Obviously they beat the bushing in, judging by the marks on top and the fit is TOO tight because it would not MOVE. I am measuring and checking, debating whether to just remove everything and get it like I think it should be or do a fair to middlin amount of work and give it a try. I think the O-ring will hold when I put the bushing in the proper position. I still have much to do but .....this son of a gun is WERKIN like it should now !! Yeaahaaa !! Touchdowns everyone !! Cheers, Gene
Reminds me of an old saying, "if it works...don't mess with it".
I love your quote at the bottom of your signature, "A good mechanic isn't expensive, he is priceless !" So true. The swing cylinder had a serious constant leak the whole time the machine was running. Repair was not an option. I need some 5-6" outside micrometers to get the bushing OD to a nice slip/snug fit. The measurements from the initial postion of the bushing put the O-Ring seal in the wrong location (it would not have been touching anything). Though the bushing has some wear... getting it in the correct location might be all that is needed. I'm gonna look up where the term Jack Leg came from. When I call somebody that, I want to know the origin. Take Care, Gene
Well, I borrowed a set of 6" mics from a friend and machined the bushing so it fit better (slip fit in the bore, it was .002" tight and the knuckle head that did the install beat the top so bad it was .010" tight). I added an additional o-ring groove on the outside diameter....for good measure. I had to reposition the bushing compared to where it was. It was about 1/4" too low and the make-shift top plate the previous repair was made because they beat the bushing in, it was seized, and they couldn't move it. It was so out of position, the o-ring was touching the locking pin hole. Of course there was no locking pin/bolt. So... after positioning the bushing where it belonged, machining a fit for the lip seal ( my vendor could not find the correct one) it all looks Okie Dokie. Not a repair I am proud of but much better than previously and NO LEAKS. I could have pulled the whole set up, rechromed the lip seal,and O-ring fit on the shaft, rebushed the bushing, and replaced all the o-rings and bearings on the other end of the shaft but.... considering the age of the machine and general condition and how long I plan to use it. This repair will be fine. No need to rebuild the whole backhoe. I am not a construction company, just a guy with a few acres that will benefit from having a machine to help out with the chores. If anyone wants to know about repairing this model just ask. I've been from one end to the other. Everything works, but I"m still gonna be tweaking a few things. I will most likely not update this thread very much as I'm pretty much done. I posted all this stuff to help anyone that has one of these jewels. Take Care all and Good Luck, Gene Pearl River, LA
Thanks for posting all this information Gene. I hope the rig helps you with many tasks. :drinkup
Givin back a little. Hope it helps someone !! Thanks for your support and comments !! Take Care, Gene
I need to change the clutch i my machine one of these days and so far I have only looked at it and it looks awful. I see the two mounts in the front but no others. Do I simply unbolt the mounts in the front, tilt the engine/trans up, support the trans, then slide the motor forward? (simply? HA!)
Chad, see post 11 on this thread. My machine did not have the mid mounting plates. I discuss that on those posts. There is a shaft the comes through the front of the machine, it extends into the engine mount up front. That shaft would need to be moved toward the front of the tractor so the engine can be lifted. You should seen me putting the engine BACK IN and working to line up the clutch shaft. Whew... I think my wife helped me. I had both legs pushing with the chain fall lowering and.... every try to wiggle a very heavy engine. I also have seals and parts numbers in this thread as well. Good Luck !! If you need further help.. I still remember some stuff. For my next trick, I am removing the backhoe, the rear section transmission and replacing a gear or two. I suppose I'll look at the brakes and seals as well.
I just bought this machine. Mine is a diesel and look forward to getting some work done. I have never worked on an old tractor like this but it seemed to be in descent working order. I got it home and off of the trailer long enough to drag a little gravel about 20ft before parking it. Now I can't get it to start. Seems like no fuel or spark. Seems like its in neutral and fuel shut off is up. Any tips or tricks are appreciated. Turns over fine.
This is a really old thread. May want to post a new one for your situation.