OK, for my next trick, I am going to remove the master cylinders and have a look at the internals, if they can be disassembled. This is going to be down the road a bit because I am working on the wiring and fixing the lights up at present. However, I may take a brake from the wiring and play mechanic for a bit. I am posting all this because I don't see much on this model tractor/backhoe and...it may help someone or also...help me get in contact with something that knows about the systems. More to follow, Gene Pearl River, LA
I removed the Master cylinders today and the equalizing valve and disassembled them to have a look. I'd like to replace the seals in the master cylinder and am trying to figure out who might have those parts available. The bores look good, the screens were clean, the oil looked like crap (emulsified). I think I now qualify as one having decent knowledge of the master cylinder, equalizer valve, area of the machine. LOL Cheers, Gene
Here are some pictures of the removed clutch, brake, master cylinder assembly on the IH. I am currently looking for parts to replace the seals in the master cylinders while I have them apart. A rebuild kit would be nice. I'd rather not buy replacements.
The part in between the two master cylinders is the equalizing valve. It has two steel balls in each side, one large and one small along with a spring. The cam adjusters are to the left and right of the disc.
Never been a member myself Sky King as I don't have much experience with IH machines, but you might try Red Power Magazine forum, devoted to IH info. http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/index.php?showforum=4
Thanks Willie but I haven't had any luck finding anything over there. Looks like I'm pretty much on my own with most of this. Hope my posts help someone. Thanks for the input though, I'll keep plugging away. Cheers, Gene
I took a couple of pics of the master cylinder internals for those that might be interested. I need the seals for these babies because I sure don't want to buy new ones. They look too good for that. Cheers, Gene
I have a friend at Motion Industries that is going to look at the Seals on the Master cylinders. He has a resource that makes seals, so we'll see how that goes. When I think of how small these seals are, I'd like to know how this guy makes them. I would think the best way to get parts would be to determine which machines USE this exact master cylinder and go from there. I just don't want to buy master cylinders because I am not sure this is the main issue with the brakes. I'd like it to be, but I won't spend $400 just to see... until I've exhausted my resources. The kits for master cylinders seem to be below $50.00 each. Some in the $30.00 range. That's whut I'm talkin bout ! LOL Cheers, Gene Pearl River, LA
sky king, should be able to call a older caseIH dealer, one that sold IH construction equipment along with the farm equipment line. The brake system you have is called a "keep fill system" IH used this system on a lot of the farm tractors 84/85/74 series like 584,684,485,585,685,574,674, along with the rubber tire backhoes. I had done a 674 ag tractor several months ago and the equalizer kit was around 40 and the m/c kits around 50. Most of these setups use a orifice/filter in the feed line, supply oil is sent to the m/c then the equalizer along down stream to the brake pistons, once oil is charged in the system, extra oil is dumped to the reservoir through the trans top cover. When bleeding the system you pinch off the drain line, install two clear plastic tubes, one to each bleeder screw, run machine at around 1200-1500 with one or both open watching for clear fluid and no air, we have had to run these over 30 min to get the air out, once clear tighten bleed screws and remove tubes, check brake pedal, repeat if needed. Some machines you could run your lines into the rear of the trans fill hole and others into a bucket. The system will be fed oil at less than one quart every 3 min. Did you try bleeding the system this way?
I did not try anything sheepfoot. I had no pedal on the left and no brakes at all. The right side, at the very bottom of the pedal I could feel a little something and it helped stop the tractor from a slow coast. I don't know anything about this system. I know the masters look really good inside and the EQ valve looked fine as well. While I have it out I want to elliminate these as a potential problem. I appreciate all the EXCELLENT advice. I can't quite put together what you are saying about how to bleed the system but I will certainly go have a look and see if I can figure it out. Can you tell me where you purchased the kits from ? I'd just as soon get them from there. I"m not having any luck with the people I call. Thanks so much for responding. I will most likely be in touch. I'm pulling the clutch at the moment so I'll be a little while before I jump back on the brakes.
Not sure where the drain line is located or the bleed screws. Are they under the tractor ? When I disassembled the system at the cab area, I did located the orifice filter and it was clean. The oil in the reservoir was milky. I am in the process of doing some serious PM and fixing UP on the backhoe. It's been neglected a long time but everything worked. It's in pretty bad shape actually but...I"m a machinist so I got that going fer me. Ha ha.
Wow, wow, wow, finally, I was able to find master cylinder rebuild kits for my brakes. Unbelievable !!! Hope they work. The numbers match....looks like were a GO ! or a Stop ! LOL Part number 3125824R1. Whoooooeeee !! Another milestone in the Quest for stoppage. Here is a list of tractors and numbers that part fits. Case/IH 2400, 248, 2500, 258, 268, 278, 385, 454, 464, 474, 475, 484, 485, 574, 584, 585, 674, 684, 685, 784, 785, 884, 885, H84 OEM Number: Case/IH 1500537C91, 527542R91 (this is the part number for my 3400A), 527542R92 (this is the part number they were able to match), 536926R91 Matbro P15739 Manitou 130318 I'm not saything this is gonna fix my brakes but it's allot cheaper than (2) $300 master cylinders to find out. LOL Take Care, Gene Good Luck with your stuff.
Well, the right side is kicking, the left side ain't. I'm pretty sure everything is good up front. I'm thinking it something in the axle. Prolly a leak. I'm gonna see if I can pressure up the system on that side. Maybe the emergency brake adjustment might have an effect on the operation. I'm not looking forward to pulling the axle. That will be the third item on my list if I do it. Does anyone have any experience with the IH brake system on this 3400A ?? Is there anything I can do without pulling the axle ??? o-rings or whatever ?? Thanks for any help, Gene Pearl River, LA
machinery is difficulty
I used to work for CaseIH. The numbers after the "R" are just a revision number. It was very handy because you could tell which part was newer without having to pull out the drawings, plus I'm sure it helped at the parts depot so they could move the older parts first or pull parts if there was a problem. ISZ
Just the left brake for now. At some point I plan to apply the suggested 600 psi pressure to the system. I am sure something is leaking internally. It is allot of work to remove the rear axle and since I have a really good right side brake... I"m OK for now. I plan to only use the backhoe around my yard. From my experience, many backhoes don't have good brakes. I've seen people use the front bucket to stop the machine. Then again, I don't operate that way. I have to pull the ROPS first and that will be difficult due to it's size. I'm gonna get everything else first class then.... when I'm really board, I'll pull the axle on the left side and determine the cause of failure. Take Care, Gene
Hello Sky King I just bought a 3400a myself and one brake will lock up after a few minutes of engine running.That side the pedal is hard,like frozen. I have to tear into it and I would rather have a master cylinder kit one hand while I do this. Where did you get your kits from?I havent shopped around yet,I figured I would start here. Any more info would help. Thanks for all your input so far
One brake is locking up....... I don't know how much you know about the systems so I'll go over a couple of things. 1. The system constantly flows hydraulic oil through part of the brake system to keep it charged. The master cylinders have two lines on each of them. There are two ports in the master cylinder. When you push the brake lever, the pistion covers the flow port and pressurizes the brake system. You may have a bad master cylinder on whatever side you are having problems that is allowing the brake flow pressure into the pressure side of the system. Man did I have a time finding that information. NOT to purchase a new master cylinder but to purchase a cheaper kit. I found a place. I finally got to use this thing diggin a hole for a swimming pool for a friend of mine. It is a BEAST. I wish I knew how to operate it better but I am getting there. This is where I got the master cylinder parts.... did I ever have trouble finding those kits !! :beatsme Walts Tractor Parts has the master cylinder rebuild kit. PART NUMBER ( UT3067 $33.00) Telephone number for Walts 888-414-4043 Tractor parts only, Aftermarket Stuff http://www.waltstractors.com
Thank you very much.I can appreciate the how hard it is to find odd things online.I have other odd engines and machines that are difficult to find,but if you keep looking some one usually helps. This proves to. me that there are still alot of good people out there. Thanks again.I will use this to prompt me to put all I learn about this machine on this forum just for others to use.I have a few manuals with my purchase,but they look basic to me.At least in the brake section. I know what you mean about digging with four sticks.Im used to John Deere or is it Cat controls?Ha ha ha Thanks again Sky King!
I am having the same trouble with a new purchase of a IH 2400a backhoe/diesel. No brakes when I bought it. After new brakes and a master cylinder, the right brake drags. Left works just fine. Changed the valves, bled the brakes. Now it runs just fine until I tap the brakes more than once or twice then both brakes start dragging and lock up. I can feel it in the steering. If I open the bleeder and release the pressure it drives just fine until I hit the brakes and then it starts dragging again. Anyone know the solution? Ive sent it off to someone else for repair and it has us both scratching our heads.
It's been a few years since your post. I have a 3400A myself and am having brake issues. Did you ever find a good source for parts?