Well, I tried to decipher all the wiring, using the diagrams, and it was just too much to work with. So, I cut just about every wire off the enginer, OK all but one, then I cut that one. LOL I am installing a GM alternator with the internal voltage regulator. I noticed the pulley is much smaller on the new alternator. I'm not gonna worry about it because I used this same alternator for my other tractor and it worked fine for years. I plan to get the dashboard a little up to speed as well. I might even install a tach. I need a new key switch as well. I am trying to remember if I grounded the field wire on the the GM to get it to work. Some articles I read say to run it to the battery terminal on the alternator. I'm going to check this out before I connect anything. Does anyone have any suggestions for a tach or fuel gauge. Thanks for any advice.
Which GM alternator? Failing positive ID, what specifically did it come out of (and by that, I mean everybodys favorite set of questions at the parts store: Make, Model, Year, Engine). If its a 10si, you jumper terminal #2 (sense) to the bat terminal. #1 (field) can be left floating if its a regulator built to gm spec. #1 in pcars runs to the idiot light with a SWITCHED 12volt feed. Alex.
I remembered my old Cutlass Supreme (1974, 350 engine) had the built in regulator. I used the model on my 601 Ford tractor. Seemed like a decent idea. I removed all the lights and checked them, 4 still worked. While I am rewiring, I'm gonna hook them up too. What the hay ? Might as well. If I want the alternator to work as it was designed, how would I hook that up ? I have a light on the dash I can use and I plan to us the ammeter or install a volt meter. Should the sense terminal go to the terminal strip that I plan to use ? I've been looking at wiring diagrams but people have different ideas. LOL Thanks for any help, Gene
The cutlass would have had a 10SI. One of those sites may be mine, people always rag at me about jumping the #2 to the battery terminal and not to some junction point on the firewall. If you tear into a GM alternator harness you will find that they have done exactly that, usually 14-24" into the harness they splice the sense wire onto the bat line. Never found one that has the sense going back to the firewall junction, so jumper it. If your into wandering the autowreckers, salvage the alternator harness out of a pre-85 GM truck. You'll easily be able to get a long enough wire to run to the idiot light, have the #2 splice pre-done, and have a fuseable link already done. Wire from #1 terminal to the idiot light. Wire from #2 jumpered to the bat terminal. Bat terminal to your battery (or primary junction point), preferably with a megafuse or fuseable link. (In case of a short in the alternator). Done. Go with a voltmeter. More usefull. At least if your regulator goes TU you will see it on the voltmeter. The ammeter will sit there happily showing alls well while your battery gets boiled off. And if you overload the system, your voltmeter will tell you that to by showing a voltage drop. Alex.
Thanks Axle. Good Stuff. I wanted to do some type of fuse set up. I'd rather not cook the wiring. After the idiot light, where do I go ? To the key switch ??
How about some advice on switches for the lights ? The rotary light switch doesn't seem to be switching properly. I checked it with an ohm meter. I doubt I'll use the lights very often but since I am cleaning the old girl up, I might as well get that done. I'm thinking front and rear separation would work. I am also considering installing the neutral safety switch which I do not believe was hooked up. Safety first !! Thanks for the input, Gene
Axle, I'm going shopping today for the pre 1985 wiring harness for the alternator. Thanks again !! Gene
I figured I might as well paint the dash, then I got a little carried away with the purple but not too bad. Just a few accents. LOL. I figure, May as well show alittle team spirit. Purple and Gold, LSU. LOL Long as I don't have a 50 yard line on my property I should be able to go anywhere I want. He he.
Oh my, LSU Tiger purple and gold, this TN Vol fan gonna have to re-think this. LoL
Correct. Alternator#1------(ijit light)-----switched 12v I'm a fan of relays, so while your harness shopping, grab some relays out of a ford underhood fuse box. (A/C relay, fuel pump relay, pcm power relay. Good for 30amps, small size in the newer cars, certainly nothing you would expect to be capable of 30 amps if you are used to older relays.FOAB1492 is stamped on most of 'em). I think the pickup trucks have a small auxilliary relay box you can pull as a unit. 95ish + crown vics, grand marquis, and towncars have a combined fuse/relay box. Just look under hoods until you find something that suits your needs. Takes the load off the switch since rotators suck a bit of current. One relay per rotator, and a switch for each. If you need to be able to run them regardless of key condition, #85 goes to #30 (battery). Alex.
Sky King ; In case you have not already read it there is another thread about GM alternators. Xpackdeals is having the same problem with his Case 580 alternator wiring. here is a link to the thread.
Thanks Tinkerer. One of my problems is.... Where do I stop ? LOL Cheers, Gene
You stop when everything works again. =-) Alex.
I am having an interesting time getting the parts I need. I have a round light switch with a resistor across two points and the consol says "dimmer" which I don't quite understand. I'm assuming the resistor is the dimmer circuit but the switch is old and the other connector point does not have continuity with anything else. I'm thinking the switch is bad. I am wondering if I should just do the head lights together and all 4 flood lights, front and rear together. I most likely will not use the floods but, things that work as they are supposed to, "are cool". I just got back from Disney World so this week might be more produtive. Thanks so much for sharing information and input. Take Care, Gene
Have you got a schematic? Scan the lighting portion with the switch, be easier to figure out what and how things where. Put it on tinypic dot com if you don't have a photobucket or other picture hosting site. A quality meter won't register continuity if the resistance is over 30 ohms or so. Measure resistance from the power feed to the switch and each side of the resistor. You may find that the contact is functional. What was the original configuration of your lights? I'd keep front/rear floods separate. Depends on what your doing, where your doing it, personal preference, etc. Alex.
i was going to connect the switch to a 12volt power source and see what happened. I with you on keeping the lights separate. That would mean, 3 switch positions. Headlights, front flood, and rear flood. There are also flashers which I removed because they were bent. I have a schematic but am using it only to see how it was connected. I'm not putting all that stuff back on. Just the lights, gauges, good charging circuit, neutral safety switch, perhaps the brake lights. We'll see. Thanks for all the input. I'll keep the posts up to date. I tried to post a picture of the switch I found but the file was too big. I get some pictures going at the end of the week.
Would you post a picture of the finished project. I have a 3400A but I have not got into the wiring yet. Thanks
Hi Eldon. This is a link to my thread on another forum where I am documenting some of the stuff I am planning on doing. I have a few pictures of various parts of the tractor disassembled, perhaps parts that most people don't get into very often. My most diffcult quest is to match up the seals in the master cylinders just above the brake pedals. I have extensive resources so... when I get it done I'll post up. My brakes are crap. I just hope I don't have to pull the back end off to get them working correctly. Here is the link http://www.tractorforum.com/f192/international-3400a-progress-21200/ As for the wiring plan. I'm not going back with the system the way it was. I just want to get the stuff working like it should. I gutted the wires, they were a mess. I am going to replace a couple of the gauges, and get it back as close to orginal without dumping a ton of money on special switches. The guys here have been most helpful so thanks to all. I may have mentioned that I am a machinist by trade and much experience fixing stuff that can't be fixed and doing so fairily cheaply. My labor is free. Ha ha If you have any specific questions on anything, I'll be happy to answer what I can. I can assure you that I will get deeply into many portions of the backhoe. Take Care man !! Gene Pearl River, LA IH 3400A
Been awhile but I am about the take this bad boy to the next level. The machine works pretty good ( I still have some issues but I can do whatever I need to with it) It is my big old Tonka TOy. I am going to proceed with the wiring and such. No hurry but I have the urge to GIT R DONE.