Looking for a dozer blade for my TL130
Just curious, what are you trying to do with it and what kind of material are you planning on trying to move with it?
We have a rock and dirt road to our home which has gotten badly rutted out from the rain and need to bring material from the sides, back into the center and build a crown. All natural material. Fist size rock,gravel and some sand. Very rocky
I have not run a 6 way on a CTL but I have on a SSL and I'll say this - if you want to punish an operator put him on a SSL with a 6-way blade to make any sort of grade. It may be an entirely different situation on a CTL but I doubt it. You may want to look at a grader blade with the wheels out front as they seem to perform better however I have no experience with them. I do have a Cat BB124 box blade with laser automatics on it that works great on flat surfaces but's not the best at windrowing material to one side or the other.
I pretty sure that the ground is too hard for that. 4 way dozer blade is what I’m looking at now. Looking for feedback
I am sure somewhere, someone is happy with their CTL blade purchase, but there are boat loads of people that gave up on that. Especially on a small machine, even if it is a tracked machine. The only guys that personally know that are happy with them is the guys doing drain tile seem to have some success with them.
Pretty sure that I've got 2 6way units buried in the weeds. Dont do it. Impossible to grade with. A harley rake type (just don't buy a chain drive unit) would work better.
I would tend to agree with others. Complete waste of money for your application. A Tilt-Tach, grader attachment, or even just a toothed bucket will be more useful to you in the long run. I can see where the blade seems like it would do well but it just does not perform like you would expect.
This single track road in the Arizona mountains with trees on both sides has gotten to the point where the usable gravel bedding material has gotten pushed to the sides and now the sides are at least 12” higher. There are now granite boulders sticking through 4”-6”. That’s why I was thinking that a blade that I could tilt would make it easier and quicker to bring that material back onto the roadbed. But it doesn’t seem to be a good solution from the feedback I’m getting.
A better solution for that would be the Bobcat grader attachment. It can be wired for your machine. They work great, as long as you have enough switches to run all the functions. Been along time since i have been in a TL130, I cant remember how many aux. functions you have.
How long is the driveway? The money spent on a blade may or may not be worth it, it may be more cost effective to truck in base material, re grade with what ya got to re build crown and compact with a roller. The material you described sounds like a good thing to leave on shoulder as it shouldn't erode away due to its size. Compare the price of buying a blade as opposed to bringing in road base. If the shoulders are 1' higher than center where crown would be, could be an easy fix with trucking in material. Good luck with whatever you. Ive got a ctl and friends with them that have blades either don't use them or they're for sale. With a blade you have to go very slow, and in skids its that not how we're use to operating them lol.
It’s s road the services about 35 homes and is about a mile long.
Adding more road base and compacting looks like it would be the best solution. Dirt/gravel roads need constant attention to keep the water moving off of it, standing water causes potholes. Plus, with that many people using the road they tend to push the material out of the corners constantly and it always needs to be pulled back. I would measure the road and figure out how much road base you would need to get it back into shape and how much labor is involved to do the job/buy the right attachment for your skid steer to maintain the road, and have everybody that lives on the road pitch in to get the road right, once the road is graded properly it won’t be too hard to maintain it.
IMO from the pic the road really needs to be graded properly before any gravel/base material is brought. It could get very expensive fast bringing in enough off-site material to bring that road up with a crown and have ditches to channel the water away. AZV is the whole mile long drive like the pic? Or is that just one section?
The entire thing is like that and that’s the good section.
Hard to believe that there are 35 homes serviced by that road. I think you would also need to get everyone together, and share the cost of fixing that road that is so way beyond a CTL and dozer blade. Adding road base at this point, would be a huge waste of money. Getting 35 homes on board and actually share the cost will be an effort in itself depending on your subdivision rules and so forth. Perhaps a place to start would be to find a couple local contractors to get you bids on fixing it. Present those numbers to those who live on the road and decide if together you can do it for less or pay to have it done. If that is the best section, you might be best off hiring it done. That way a third party is responsible and receiving payment, rather than someone within the subdivision taking the money and fixing it. It would just be much cleaner to hire it done to keep the peace within the subdivision.
They don't have nearly enough joystick functions to properly run a grader blade. I have a TL230 (basically a newer version of the TL130) and use a Bobcat control box with 5 rocker switches and a separate 14 pin wiring harness to control my blade. I'm able to use all functions as well as control the laser receiver on/off without using any of the joystick buttons/switches.
I didn't know BC offered a box controller for those. Good to know, I had enough switches on my joysticks, but it took all of them.
Are the 35 homes full time residences, vacation homes or combination?
It has a magnet on the back and I stick it to the right side of my cab just above the joystick for the loader/bucket and it's actually handier to use then I expected. I figured I'd hate it and end up ordering the SS Genius control setup but it's not bad at all.
A combination of full time and part time.
I'm thinking I should just look into renting a small motor grader or dozer and doing it that way for the initial dirt work. To bring the material back to the center. Probably no way to get everyone on board with paying someone to bring in that much bedding material and do the work on a Mile long road. I dont mind maintaining it at no charge because I'm using it but the equip to maintain it would be mine. That's why I was looking for recomendations without breaking the bank.
If you go that way either machine should be equipped with a ripper/scarifier so that wherever you want to bring material from it can be loosened up first. It would also allow you to identify larger material that you don't want in the road surface and separate it out. When I saw that photo you posted earlier my first thought was you need one of these, especially the hook on the back.........
Man, that would be nice but almost impossible to maneuver on this single track road, plus very expensive to rent. Trying not to break the bank, in case the cost falls on me only. (Then, I’d just be doing the road up to my place) I’ll try and post more pics of the road conditions later this week. We’ve had well over 15” of rain this season. (Past 2 months) so the road bed needs to be very durable. There are spots with 12” ruts.
They do articulate in the middle you know........ I've been watching this guy's channel for a while now. He's good at finding abandoned stuff and fixing it up.
Is that Marty T ? Very enjoyable to watch
If your sinking 12" into the road, your going to need some pit run (6" minus or so) and or Geo Textile over the worst parts. Reshaping with the same trash the road was forged out of isn't going to solve your issues permanently. Grading it with a crown so the water sheds will certainly help that but it looks to me like you don't have very good material to build a road out of.
Didn’t sink into the road. Rain cut into it.
My feeling would be this. You already have the machine, if you’re dead set on doing the work yourself, either buy a toothed HEAVY DUTY bucket that’s a few inches wider than the machine OR buy a tooth bar that slips onto your existing bucket. Then start pulling the material back in sections at a time. The key to it will be compacting it all as you go, so you will need a vibratory roller or a good size plate compactor. The key to it is to get the sides lower than the middle and the inside/outside corners built up/cut down low enough to let the water shed off the sides. If you don’t have enough existing material you will need to import road base to get the drive graded properly. There’s no doubt this is going to cost some money to get back into shape, on a shared road like this it becomes a nightmare getting everyone to agree to a price and even harder to get them to pay. The biggest problem I see is that any good material has been pushed/washed off the road so it looks like you’ll be trying to grade round rocks from softball size to bowling ball size. Why should you have to buy attachments and rent equipment to repair a road that’s shared by 35 others? I’ll answer, probably because it bugs the crap out of you that no one else will do it? Still doesn’t mean you should foot the bill. What happens if your machine breaks while doing it, who pays for that?
You are dead right, it bugs the crap out of me and I’m trying to keep the rain on the road and not flowing onto my property, washing my materials away. So I’ll start with my section and see if it spurs interest in taking it further and any financial help.
It’s a combination. A couple of full timers and the rest are vacation homes. It’s going to be bad when the snow melts. Road took a beating this winter. Only way to get it cleared was a loader and that really tore up the road bed. Snow is piled 6’-8’ in places. Road is going to need some serious help this year.
I would imagine the ruts from run off will be epic. The road I am sure really needs to rebuilt correctly. https://interpro.wisc.edu/tic/wp-co...avel-Roads-Construction-Maintenance-Guide.pdf I found this which I thought did a great job of explaining it all. Having drainage cut on both sides of the road with culverts as needed to prevent washing out would likely help. The link shows a road that looks very similar to your situation and how to fix it.
Great information. Thank you