Google is failing me. Surely there's SOME complete parts listing for all variants of the 4JB1 engine online? Hours...no luck. More specifically, injector pipes. More specifically, #2. For a 1997. See, I ordered a complete set from China a couple of weeks back. And not one of them matches. They're blaming it on the engine being a "4JB1TPX," vs just a "4JB1T," but I think they're full of it. But now looking at every image I can find on Google, it's looking like there was more than one IP. If that's the case, then there's more than one set of pipes. Why a new pipe? Well, one - JUST one - upper line nut rusted into two parts because of a chronic drip. The line proper is fine. So if all else fails, if I could find a replacement nut, I'd cut and splice the pipe with a union...but dangit, I'd rather find a nice shiny new set of pipes, and change them ALL. And an injector...or hell, maybe four. And a glow-plug.
Without sharing what the engine was mounted in? No pics? No wrong part numbers? No injection pump pics or tag numbers? Really, nothing other than my pipe is rusted and they sent me wrong one?
808.682.2400 www.pacificdda.com PACIFIC POWER PRODUCTS 91-265 KALAELOA BLVD KAPOLEI, HI 96707 Kapolei Your local dealer. Engine serial number is everything. All numbers, stamped in the block somewhere. If they are like my dealer, they will have it quick and reasonable and right.
Isn't this why JB Weld was invented?
Hey heymccall - thanks for caring ...I tend to post with too MUCH information, and/or assume my little problems are not necessarily of broad interest so I try not to 'wall-of-text' at people, but I appreciate your criticisms and thirst for details, so to cover your questions below: 1) The pics I sent to the Chinese parts seller are not so useful to the discussion, I thought, because it's so hard to discern 3D bends in tubing - especially when my engine hasn't received more than partial shelter for at least the 17 years *I've* owned it (it's all becoming the same shade of oxide, oily weepings, and decomposing leafy debris). I hadn't wanted to touch even the leaky pipe because I knew it would get worse, and probably get from a movable machine to an immobile one (the road to hell for me is paved with unfinished mechanical projects). Anyway, I DID take it out yesterday afternoon, and that's how I learned that the top nut had fractured from rust around it's belly, leaving the vital threaded remains rusted onto the injector itself. I'm actually wondering if my local hydraulics shop might be able to supply me with a new nut - if maybe a compression-union would be up to the task of containing the IP pressure long-term - because that would be far and away the most expedient fix. Comments? It's the number-two pipe (L-R) in the image below, of course much obstructed by ancillary components. (I ran into the four-photo limit here, so I will post below with two shots of the busted pipe itself) 2) I never, ever found any part-numbers. The Chinese vendor sells these simply under two options : one for normal aspiration, the other for turbo - no parts numbers given. They attempt to provide kit photos on their website (below, if I'm able to post a link), but they're impossible to verify, even against their own pipes (on my desk now). See https://www.freewai.com/high-pressu...n-elf-nkr-nhr-100p-tfr-rodeo-dmax-p-2872.html 3) see newly posted pics - it's a rotary pump (Bosch, I ask?) Per your parts drawings (which I'd come across while googling), it looks like there were at least two IPs fitted (an inline and maybe my rotary), so there should have been at least THAT selection requirement for new pipes. That said, my bad #2 pipe looks little like any of them - the upper gooseneck is bent in a different direction when seen from above - so I don't know what to do with the illustration other than conclude there should be other variants documented. Wouldn't there be a manual that would break down the parts options by year/ engine-number, say? For you and others trying to help, it's sitting in a 1997 ASV MD2810 skid-steer loader. Valve-cover ID sticker: 4JB1 TPX AJ/JH Engine casting number: 9780711 IP data plate/casting/sticker info, newly visible, freshly pressure-washed: Maker/ass'y no. 897017 7760 Pump ass'y no. 104741-6710 ZEXEL (made in Japan) [below that, there is an oxidized ID plate I hadn't seen until I was back at my desk; I'd need to wire-brish it or some such in order to make out what look like a LOT of ID codes, but I think the above should suffice...right? I just need the PIPES...]
Pix of failed nut on OK pipe (no, JB weld or even TIG wouldn't work so well here...) These things always hit me after my week of "real job" so running into this on Saturday (or Friday afternoon) I can't get any local or US-mainland help until next week. Birken - thanks, per your suggestion (I don't usually go to dealers for ANYTHING) I do plan to see what my local Isuzu dealer might be able to do for me... but I'd SURE love not to SPAM them with all this info, vs being able to provide a p/n. I kinda doubt they'd have the resources to assist, and it could mean I spend hours driving and standing at a parts-counter waiting area... ASV might or might not give up an original part-number; they're often of great help but understandably exist not to help me find local or China-based low-cost alternatives to their warehouse in Minnesota.
Related issue: I need a replacement injector (same issue - return pipe is about to fall off from rust) so I'd like to just get four new ones if they're as affordable as what I see on ebay and amazon (about $110 for a set). They're not hard to find on ebay etc, but have LONG numbers that imply there's a good chance there are many possible wrong-injector options out there (eg " 4JB1 JX493Q1 8942479370 8-94247937-0") What ARE all those numbers after the engine number? Same thing regarding glow-plugs: my #2 twisted off from rust, so I'll be extracting it somehow soon.
duplicate post removed - perma-confusion about site refreshing.
On the engine block near the front. Will be a 6 digit (maybe 7) number stamped in with numbers about 1/2" high. Not painted or anything so a little sandpaper will help. This is the engine serial. Call the dealer I mentioned with the serial number. You will be surprised how easy it is. And probably not that expensive. Your time is worth something and all this fooling around with wrong parts is quickly turning into a losing proposition. If you can do this work and look up parts yourself, your time is worth at least $100/hr. So figure that in and take it for what it is worth. If the HI dealer is useless (I have no idea) then Hamilton Engine is your master distributor but they are in Oregon. 503.288.6714. If this all fails PM me and I will see what I can do. Isuzu engines are my favorite. But everything revolves around the serial number.
Thanks so much, Birken. The engine casting is 9780711 (it's in my long post above, buried in the details - see also photo) but in my case, that number is behind the starter-motor, near the bottom of the cast-iron block, BACK left. Does the number seem right? I'm guessing the "97" is the YOM, since that's the equipment's birth year...? I'd perhaps prefer to go to Hamilton because it seems like local dealer would have to special-order my stuff ANYWAY, meaning I'd be spending a lot of road-time just to get to and from them, plus everyone charges an arm and a leg for any of the courier services to Hawaii. Do you know if Hamilton does mailorder? Mahalo - Dave
Isuzu usually ships parts to me at their own expense. The dealer collects the money and places the order. It is a very efficient system. Although HI might be different. The number you are looking for is not a casting number. It is usually a machined flat pad on the block, high on the front, stamped with the numbers. Usually not painted if the rest is painted with a thin gray paint. It is a unique serial for every engine so a casting number would not be the thing. It is not really that hard to find.
Serial number video
That looks a little confusing. It says left side but pictures are of right and I know on a L series engine it is in front of the #1 inj pump on the right. But this is a different one, I suspect it is on the left side of the engine but it has always been somewhere on the upper, front of the block on the left or right side in my experience.
Yeah, thanks anyway Heymccall, but I don't get that 'video' either (actually a still photo pretending to be a video) - can't make sense of the illustration, even...looks almost like a diesel V8 (two heads?) and yes, the text contradicts what the image shows. Birken, I went back twice this morning and finally found what you were describing, hidden in plain sight: engine S/N is 160833 (vs my previously-identified CASTING number.) I photographed the 'vicinity' for the sake of...future generations...? That's the starter-motor right below the machined S/N location. Metal-conditioning disc on air-grinder helped with the rest. (I need to train my five-year old to do that over the whole engine...) Now to start phoning dealers... Thanks - Dave
Birken, I've not been in touch with local dealer but did reach a very helpful parts guy at Hamilton, so thanks for their contact info. I'm in sticker-shock, though...$172 for the injector pipe (one) and $236 for each injector, without a full set even available if I thought the expense was justified (no). Googling those part numbers got me zilch. If I'd done the same with, say, even my oddball gray-market CAT part numbers, I'd see at least SOME options, so I can only guess the Isuzu after-market stuff is much less common. Do you know of a cross-reference for injector p/n IS894450050 such that I might get an after-market replacement? I think I can manage the pipe by some kind of rework process, but not an injector. (problem is that the return-pipe is almost rusted through, so it would be very difficult to repair). Looks like he didn't quote me for a glow-plug, though I'd buy four - not sure they ever turn on here at Honolulu temps, anyway. Do you know?
You've got an "S" for the "Z" and you're one digit too short. The end number is missing. Try IZ8944500502, although I'm not sure that the last digit should be a "2".
Looks like 8944500502 might be your part number. They never come to me with any letters in front. Diesel parts direct comes up on top with a Google search. They keep coming up in my searches. You might give them a try. As for me I have one no-nonsense local dealer I just go to, he treats me good so I stay loyal to him.
One of about three small but important items I need to cover before this LONG project is done is getting the tightening-torque about right for the injector retaining bolts. I've looked high and low online for this and can't find it. Anyone got common-practice- or factory-manual-based advice? Again, it's the Isuzu 4JB1-T engine; mine's c. 1997. I looked up generic torque for the fasteners involved, but it seems way high: 61 ft-lbs for an M10-1.25 . Considering the relatively short embedment, and that it's in cast iron, I am about sure I'd strip the holes out if I used that high of a torque. Mahalo - Dave
You mean the shank of the bolt is 10mm or the head is 10mm?
That'd be the shank. It's a metric grade 10.9. Width across flats is 14mm.
...Birken, from your work on the 4JB1/T engines, do all of them have the type of oil-cooler in the photo I'm posting? https://photos.app.goo.gl/pMUF3PMPs5gVrP7S8 Interference with getting to all of my injectors finally caused me to pull out the pair of cooler lines, and of course the hose and all associated fittings were in poor shape (had to cut the hose to get it out anyway). So while I'm replacing hoses, it's also occurred to me that I might not really NEED the oil-cooler to begin with, though it's probably better to have it than not. I once had a small leak from some part of it (can't recall whether oil or water) but disassembly and repair made me want to back away very slowly and quietly - I couldn't believe there were not worse leaks, from the way it appeared to be assembled. Seems to me if I'd wanted to delete the cooler entirely, it would have been fairly simple to remove it and still have the oil-filter spin-on setup work almost the same as before, but I stopped short because I don't know how important it is.
... also haven't run across what appears to be a small coolant hose feeding...the turbo?...gets to it from the water-outlet, then a banjo fitting on the turbo, then down through another small steel tube and into the block, presumably the water-jacket? https://photos.app.goo.gl/rjJEJipd3cwRygru5 (I thought turbos were typically lubed by oil-pump taps of one variety or another, the oil then being returned to the sump, so this was a surprise to me.)
I can't recall having seen anything like that on an Isuzu. Oil coolers are usually standard on a turbo engine, though. And a water cooled turbo is not unheard of. Nowadays they are all water cooled.
I can't recall having seen anything like that on an Isuzu. Oil coolers are usually standard on a turbo engine, though. And a water cooled turbo is not unheard of. Nowadays they are all water cooled.
Attached an engine service manual for 4ja1/4jb1 engines. Page 103 looks like it has the specs on reinstalling the injectors.
John V - thank you SO much. I've paged through the whole thing at this point. Seems like the generic torque for bolt size from other resources is about twice what Isuzu calls for, so I'm really glad I didn't press on trying to get there. I'm sure this will come in handy for all kinds of future concerns, too. Mahalo!