I have a 1400B that has developed a horrible leak on the Left hand side swing Ram. I am looking at how to remove this cylinder, it appears the pin in the backhoe boom is bolted thru the bottom, how does this pin come out? Is it supposed to drop out the bottom? On mine someone in the past appears to have welded around the top of the pin, and there is not enough room to drive the pin up to take it out. Of course this has happened at about 200' into a 210' trench I need to dig... Help please! Thanks, Pyro
Is the weld on top of the pin ? Is it welded to the frame ? I am guessing that it was welded on top to prevent it from falling out the bottom. If the pin is to long to remove it by driving it up, surely it has to go down to remove it. If you can move it up any at all do what you have to do to cut the weld off, even if you have to cut a small amount of the end of the pin off. Doing that should allow the pin will go down and out. Where is the leak located ?
It looks like the pin is free, but they put a bead on the top of it, likely to keep it from falling out, but it's bolted so why would it fall out? The leak is coming from the seal around the ram, the seal is cracked in two, so it has to be replaced. If I get a seal kit, can I rebuild it on the machine? I think I can take out the bolt, drive the pin up enough to get my grinder in to clean up the top of the pin.
The weld bead is most likely a safety thing to keep it from falling out. The pin may have fallen out before and the bead was a precautionary thing. You may not need to remove that cylinder to fix the leak after you read this very recent thread. It is a Case branded machine but hydraulic cylinders are all the same. Here is a link to the thread. HeavyEquipmentForums
I have almost all of the weld ground off, trying to get the pin to turn so I can get at the rest of the weld. Am going to try a dremel tomorrow, if that does not work going to have to try the torch, which I do not want to do. Trying to figure out which seal kit I need, they show two different ones in the parts book, a 60mm x 100 and a 60mm x 110, anyone know how to know which one I have?
Post your serial number and I may be able to look up the parts.
1400 b ac5047534
hmm can't find anything with those numbers. Sure that is the serial number? I know on newer JCB's the serial number is the last 6 digits of the sequence starting with SLP.
Pyro, Can you weld a nut on the bottom of the pin ? I see two options on the seal kit. Buy both sizes and return the one you don't / can't use. Or, pull the rod assembly out of the barrel and measure it. Or a third option would be to take the rod assembly to a hydraulic repair facility and have them install the kit, which may surprise you how cheap they can do it for.
I found in the parts book supplement that the kit 991/00028 was superceeded twice the final part number is 991/00030, which I happen to have that kit, the guy I bought it from gave me a box of spare parts and some seal kits, If I can get that pin out I am going to try to rebuild it myself today.
Ok, I got the weld all ground off and the pin out, now I need to take the ram out of the cylinder, what is the best way to get that cap off and is it a normal thread? Should I get a wrench to fit the cap, or can I use a large Pipe wrench? I have one but was not sure if I should try to use it?
I would never use a pipe wrench to remove the gland. If it slips a couple of times or if you apply it to the barrel accidentally it will be a mess. I have seen horrible looking glands after pipe wrenches were used on them. Does the gland have holes in the flat area for a spanner wrench ? Post a photo of it so someone can advise you as to the proper way to remove it.
I did not see any holes in it, I will try to get a picture tomorrow. Looking like the backhoe is going to be down for awhile, over 200' of trench left open, hope it does not cave to badly while I try to get this thing fixed.
Here is a picture of another jcb with the same swing cylinders, the nut visible on the cylinder on the right side is what I have on mine, it measures close to 3 3/4", likely a little bigger and metric since it was built in England. Looking like I am going to have to drop the bottom plate and the cylinder, have been told that nut does not come off easily. Anyone have an idea? I would rather not take it off. The cylinder that is leaking on mine is the left hand side.
Well, Pyro it appears that you will have to remove cylinder. I don't see any way you could fabricate a tool to get on the nut. When you do get the cylinder off go ahead and get a BIG pipe wrench on it. If it is as tight as you have been told put a 6 or even an 8 foot pipe on the wrench and have at it. Be careful and don't hurt yourself. There have been photos on here of men who have used loader buckets on the cheater pipe. I would never do that, it is just too dangerous. If it is that tight I would take the cylinder a hydraulic shop that has the proper tools to remove and replace that gland. You would be surprised hoe reasonable some places charge for it.
Yeah, after talking to a couple of people, I am planning on removing and taking the entire cylinder in to someone. Once the cylinder is off the machine, I do not have anywhere that I could secure the cylinder safe enough to even try the pipe wrench on it. If I had a vice big enough maybe, but I don't. Time to suck it up and pay the guys at the shop, it still should be at least a Thousand cheaper than having the one large operator who works on JCB's out to do it. My ram is in decent shape, there are a couple spots, but this is a Farm backhoe, I use the hoe about 10 maybe 15 hours a year, so It should be fine with new seals.
I had the dipper cylinder on my backhoe resealed last summer at a hydraulic repair shop and it cost $36.00 for the Hercules seal kit and $60.00 to install it. But you never know what someone will charge until they see what you have. It was money well spent !
If I can get the ram out, how big of a deal is it to remove and then replace the nut on the end of the ram? Someone here mentioned something about a torque amplifier???
I don't know Pyro, what the nut on your rod is torqued to. Some of them are as high as 1200 ft. lbs. Just like I suggested with the gland, but a proper socket, a pipe wrench on it and a long pipe. Torque amplifier are expensive unless you can borrow or rent one. You should call a hydraulic shop and get a price as to what they would charge if you just took the complete cylinder and had them reseal it.
I did the bucket cylinder seals on my 855D loader a few months back. A bobcat bucket w a 6' cheater bar wouldn't loosen the nut, but it came free like butter with a little heat from the torch. Getting ready to do 5 cylinders on my old 35C backhoe for the same machine. I'm not looking forward to removing the dipper cylinder OR the swing cylinders....
I plan on taking the ram in to have the seals done, I just think it would be much easier, however, I really do not want to have to remove that plate and the entire cylinder if I can avoid it. I have drawn up a wrench for it and my buddy is going to make one for me today, with any luck, and the 10' cheater it will come out... If not, back to putting blocking under the cylinders, a jack under the plate, drop the plate, then disconnect and remove the bad cylinder and take the entire thing in.
Well, my buddy made me a wrench today, we managed to get the ram out with very little problem, now hope the shop I am taking it to can put the seals on for me. Could be up and running tomorrow night, maybe.
Can you post a couple of photos of that wrench ? The JCB owners may want to see it. Post back after you get everything back together and let us know what it cost to have that shop rebuild the cylinder.
I was about to post the pics, as I appreciate it when I search for help on an issue and people post updates and results. Here is the wrench, and a pic of the ram out of the machine. The wrench is two pieces of 1/4" plate steel. The thickness of the wrench area can not be more than 1" if you are planning on leaving the cylinder on the machine, there is barely enough clearance for this wrench to take off the end cap. I thought I was going to have to grind the corners round to make it. Once I had the wrench on the cap, I used a 1 pound maul to tap the handle and it came right off, I think I was lucky after seeing others mention using 6' cheaters and bobcat buckets to get them to turn....
The hydraulic shop found the kit I had, is the wrong one. New kit is of course the expensive one, $90 for the kit, plus labor, total Bill $165.00. Lots better than the $1800 to $2500 i was quoted for a farm call from a repair service.
Still waiting on the repair shop to get the seal kit in and get it back. Really not happy about the lack of service. I think I am going to order seal kits for all my cylinders and try to get a torque amplifier to rebuild them on my own. Seems like no one can ever do what they say they can or will do these days. I was supposed to have the cylinder done and back at the latest Noon on Monday, now it's wednesday and I kind of doubt they will get it done today. Actually thinking of going to get it back today and order my own seals as I will likely still get it done sooner on my own.... Customer service sucks anymore...
Finally have everything back in service, the parts showed up Thursday morning, It took my buddy and I about 15 minutes to re-install the ram. Glad to have it back in service.