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JCB 212 backhoe, help, need parts.

John White · 2008-03-27 18:47

I just purchased a JCB 212 backhoe and it has a burnt wireing harness. I am trying fo find some salvage yards or a good JCB dealer to deal with. The dealer in my area Any one who owns one of these backhoes, I would like to ask you some questions about it. Could you contact me? Thanks.

Replies42
  1. #1Turbo218352008-03-27 22:36

    I dont have a JCB machine, or know anyone that does. Only run a few, but. Call AIS Equipment in Michigan 1-800-972-5335. They have used parts. I know they have a few JCB backhoes in the yard that they are tearing apart. If they dont have any on hand im sure they can get a hold of one for you

  2. #2digster2008-04-16 14:11

    What was your reasoning to purchase the JCB? Price, brand, etc? Why did you opt for that machine over the larger brands (CAT/Deere)? The brand is growing here in the US hopefully they will work out their service part distribution.

  3. #3hammerdwn202008-04-16 20:22

    I work for a landscaping company and we have 2 212s. ok machines. we mostly use them with the 4in1 or forks. for whatever reason they would rather bring in one of our excavators than use the backhoe so they really dont see too many hours.

  4. #4pwrstroke6john2008-04-16 23:20

    I would love to have a 212, there all wheel steer, not much bigger then a compact tractor, and alot stronger. I would say AIS also, but Im not sure if they have offices in ohio.

  5. #5John White2008-04-18 20:31

    There is no specfic reason I selected a JCB. Its just that I do the type of work where a smaller backhoe is needed. I have a Earth Force EF4 (same as a Bobcat 300) and I like it for the most part. I run on to this JCB 212 and is has a burnt wireing harness. (new one $1,100.00) I got a real good deal on if I can get the wireing harness. It is just a little larger than the Earth Force, and I think a little more beefer. Most of the 212's that I have seen for sale, I couldnt afford. I got this one pretty reasonable and once all the bugs are worked out of it, I think I will like it. Cant say much for the price they want for parts though.

  6. #6lee2008-06-18 15:15

    hi john just a quick answer to your question if you need parts im your man i break jcb for spares and supply new parts based in uk tradeing as the digger doctors uk tel 0044(0)1455612307 e mail [email protected] tradeing for 10 years many happy customers in uk and overseas i look forward to hear from you regards lee gregory

  7. #7greg95042012-04-16 17:09

    Did you ever get the wiring harness? I went to look at a 2000 JCB 212s today at a dealer. The battery was dead. Shortly after the owner hooked up jumper cables I noticed smoke coming from under the cab at the back. So I'm like "Stop!" and he keeps trying to start it. So I pulled the jumper cables. The wires going to a rear diff sensor or solenoid were burning up, all the insulation was melting off (so much for the fuse working). He then pulled the connector and tried to separate the wires enough so they were not touching. He hooked the cables back up, I'm like "The keys is on, sure you don't want to shut it off before putting the cables back on?" No no... so he hooks the jumper cables back up and walks around and gets back in the cab. Then he waves to me. I thought he wanted me to move. Turns out it was smoking inside the cab. I unhook the cables. He gets out. While he is disconnecting the battery I go inside the cab and you can smell burnt electronics smell. The cable that started it was going to a sensor or solenoid right under the middle of the back of the cab, to the top of the diff or trans??? Should have taken a picture. Anyway just wondering how you made out. I'm considering a low ball "as-is" offer (10k max). The machine has a 4in1 bucket and rear thumb. It does however show it's age. And not having seen it run there could be a host of other problems. Fixing the harness doesn't scare me too much. How did you move it with the burnt harness? Just drag it on to a tilt and load tow truck? Thanks

  8. #8xcmark2012-04-16 17:17

    I think unless its like new with under 1500 hours , 10K maybe a little high for this hoe. Parts from JCB a huge money and your really only looking at what ever the market will give you for a return once your ready to sell. In my area I see full cab JCB 212 with ext-hoe selling for low $20,000 max with 3000 hours

  9. #9John White2012-04-17 07:51

    greg9504: Yes< I finally got mine fixed. I had to order a wireing harness from JCB. Around $1200. There was other wireing damage also but I split the loom and repaired it. I paid around $7,000 for the backhoe, plus the cost of wireing harness. Sold it for $15,000 and bought another JCB 212 with enclosed cab for the $15,000 . I think JCB has had some wireing problems with this model, as I have heard others who had theirs catch on fire with burnt wireing harness. I think it wears through the insulation and shorts out where it comes up inside the cab, under the fuse panel where it goes through the floor. I really like my 212 for the type of work I do. Sometime ago I missed a good deal on Ebay. Some one had one with around 300 hours, (2005 model I think) with air cond.) I think he sold it for $20,000

  10. #10greg95042012-04-17 08:00

    Hi John, Thanks for the reply. One other question, how did you get it home when it wouldn't run? Were you able to have it dragged onto a tilt and load tow truck? Thanks

  11. #11John White2012-04-17 19:30

    Under neath the transmission at the rear (if I remember right) there is a bolt and I think it has a jam nut. You have to lossen or tighten it and it will release the clutch. I just had another back hoe push me up on the trailer. I chained the boom up. If you know of someone who has a JCB manuel, it will explain what you have to do to get it to free wheel. Remember once you get it loaded, you need to block it and chain lit down because it could roll. If you cant get any information on the correct way to do it, contact me and I will get underneath and look at mine and give you a little more detailed explination.

  12. #12greg95042012-04-18 22:57

    OK thanks. Still not sure if I'll make the offer. There are two other working 212s within 4 hour drive. So I may go look at them. FWIW the circled sensor/solenoid in this picture is what the wire that was smoking was attached to. This isn't the unit, just a picture I found on line that happened to have a clear picture of the part.

  13. #13John White2012-04-19 07:50

    Did it burn the whold wireing harness? Can it be split and repaired? I know on mine, some of the wires ran under the cab which was part of the wireing harness and I had to losten the cab up and jack it up to get to them. I think JCB has more problems than they should with burnt wireing harness and fires. You would think the fuses would protect the system. What ever you do, remember JCB parts are priced by the ounce like gold.

  14. #14greg95042012-04-22 21:15

    I'm unsure of all the damage. Of what I saw, only the wire to the component circled above was overheating. However the smell inside the cab would lead me to believe more overheated. I drove 3.5 hours one way to look at another "It all works fine, checked out by dealer" 212s today. Thank god for this forum! because the machine had the binary brake problem (full on or no), without the forum I wouldn't have known about the issue. Then I look over and see two yellow hydraulic cylinders lying in the yard about 20' from the backhoe. On one of them the eye on the end of the shaft is completely destroyed. "Oh yeah one of 212s (he had 3) got hit by a car" Well lets see which one has the new cylinder... not the 2 you are keeping. And finally it didn't seem to make full power. It idled around 1100 RPM, but I couldn't get it past 1700 RPM. The plate on the side of the machine says max power at 2200, so I expected it to get to there. Is that correct? My first guess is something on the fuel side, injector pump maybe? On the good side, there wasn't much play in the loader and at idle the hydraulics easily picked the machine up off the ground. Going to call the dealer on Monday and see the cost of the brake accumulator, injector pump and what a wiring harness would be for the other one. Then see how badly they want to sell. Wish I could find one that hasn't been beat to an inch of it's life

  15. #15greg95042014-05-27 14:26

    Well I finally purchased one. 2004 212S. Plowed snow for a few seasons so the underside is a bit rusty (at most fittings), bottom of door and right window are rusted away, and pins and bushings in most of the loader have play. Although this seems to be common on any of the later style 212s loaders. I missed a few things when I was looking it over: - The handle on the valve that switches between the Qfit quick hitch and the front aux hydraulics is broken. - I didn't remove the fuse panel. Should have. The fuse for the glowplug/preheater is missing. Haven't figured out why yet. - The brakes will hold the machine on a steep hill but there seems to be a lot of travel. On the newer 212s the brakes are wet type and require the axle to come out. Hoping that isn't the case. Besides adding fluid and bleeding the brakes there doesn't appear to be any other adjustment. Other things that need fixing that I knew about: - boom lock cable needs to be replaced, rusted. - slew lock pin is rusted in the holder. - brake lights are not working. - one of the front lights isn't working. - right mirror is broken. - loader bushing and pins, not sure if it makes $$$ sense to replace these for the amount of hours I'll put on the machine. - heater ducting to front window is disconnected but heater does blow hot air out of bottom vent. On the positive side the loader and backhoe will pick the machine off the ground at idle, starts easy (it is warm out now though), no blow by, had some of the pins and bushings in the hoe replaced and came with ones to do the rest of the hoe if needed (but it's not), and got 3 rear buckets, 12", 24", 36". If anyone is looking for pdf versions of service and or operator's manual PM me.

  16. #16Jordan012014-09-28 23:16

    Greg, just wondering if you still have a pdf of the 212 service manual available, I am needing one to troubleshoot an electrical issue on a customers machine... good luck to me right?! Let me know if you can help me out at all. Thanks!

  17. #17greg95042014-09-29 08:31

    Sent you an email with the links, let me know if you don't get it.

  18. #18Jordan012014-09-29 10:49

    Got the email, thanks alot! I did just see the machine I'm working on was built in 1999 so it might differ from that manual a bit. It's better than nothing though, I work at a case ih agriculture dealership so we don't really have any business working on this stuff but we do it anyway, for some reason...

  19. #19hookedondiesel2014-10-23 06:06

    Hi Greg, just ran into your thread, I'm looking at a 1995 ish JCB 210s, same as the 2cx, looks an awful lot like yours, I'm not too far from you, Rockland... Can you throw any advice on this machine for me, I may also need that pdf link, should i decide to get it. I like these 4x4's and 4 wheel steer options, yours looks good. Do you still have it?

  20. #20greg95042014-10-23 09:35

    Hi, Is this the one on Kijiji in Edelwiess Valley? Have you seen it in person yet? Get underneath it to see how it looks there. While it does look a bit weathered as long as it isn't rusted too bad on the underside should be OK, make sure there are no big leaks in the hydraulic valves. The loader one is underneath, the one for the backhoe can be seen from the back with the back hoe shifted to either side. Have him shift the backhoe over to one side. Just to make sure it moves freely. The doors on my 2004 were rusted at the bottom. I had the glass taken out and then I welded in some new steel (just standard 1" square tube and some 1/2" flats). In the ad it looks like the driver's door is off, make sure they have it. No use having a cab in the winter if you don't have a door. Also the cover for the battery is missing. That vintage of 210s is about 10k lbs, where as a newer 212s like mine is 12.5k lbs. Still compared to a compact tractor they are a beast. If you are like me and like to fix all the little things, parts can quickly add up. I replaced the boom lock cable on mine, dealer wanted $400 for the cable, I found a non oem version out of Europe for $120. For filters and more common parts there is BEC out of Toronto ( www.becequipment.ca ). If there is anything wrong you'd like to fix, look into the cost of parts before you buy. The brakes on that one (different than mine) use these strange bulb like accumulators... see this thread Just make sure that the brakes work. I did get a quote from BEC for the accumulators when I was concerned with the brakes with an older 212s I was looking at a few years ago.. price was $389.14 in 2012. So far mine has been working well. I added a hydraulic thumb, which is easy to do on these machines because they have hydraulics already all in place on the hoe. If you have any specific questions let me know. Greg.

  21. #21hookedondiesel2014-10-23 10:47

    Thanks for "all" the info, Greg, yep, it's the one on kijji. Going up on Saturday, to have a look. Good catch on the battery cover, never knew it had a cover. I'll let ya know how it went, thanks again.

  22. #22greg95042014-10-23 16:33

    When you go, get the serial number and take some pictures of the underside,valve blocks and interior. I just read the ad again, mentions needing new exhaust. Get pictures... you can easily spend $1000 on the muffler and manifold if you have to go through the dealer.

  23. #23hookedondiesel2014-10-23 17:08

    Will do, Greg...you've been a great help, thank you again. Something you can inform on is,, do these machines have a clutch, do you need to engage the clutch before shifting gears? How do these shift?? I had a MF60 in the past, it had a torque converter of sort's, pedal forward to go ahead and pedal for reverse, I noticed from pic's that there's a lever on the left for forward/reverse, can this be shifted on the fly without clutching? I'd also like to add Greg, this machine won't cost me a nickle, I'm doing a swap with this gentlemen, "if" it's up to par.

  24. #24greg95042014-10-23 17:21

    These shift just like most other backhoes, shuttle type. There is no clutch pedal. There is a button on the shifter to disengage the clutch. If you are in motion and want to change gears, lift off the throttle, press the button on the shifter as you move to the next gear. To go from forward to reverse, come to a stop, move the lever on the left of the steering wheel down (middle is neutral, up forward). There is also a button on the loader lever. Pressing it disengages the clutch so you can rev up the engine when lifting a full bucket. There is a lever next to the loader lever, that controls the aux hydraulics at the front. I'll send you a link to the operators manual. It is for a newer 212s, but very similar.

  25. #25hookedondiesel2014-10-24 05:32

    Got those manuals Greg, thank you so much, it will help tremendously when I go to take a look at her. Funny, I always thought there was a lever to move the sideshift, but it looks like you manually move it with the backhoe/bucket etc. Very interesting, at least I won't go there blind now.:thumbsup

  26. #26hookedondiesel2014-10-24 05:38

    Just wanted to let you know also, theres a place in Ottawa, Belgreen Dr, Gloucester called Wayjax, they sell parts and do repairs on JCB's, this (so he tells me) is where he had his tranny done.

  27. #27barnbuilder2014-10-25 07:49

    What are you guys paying for these things if you don't mind. I love my machine but it just sits in the building most of the time.

  28. #28greg95042014-10-25 08:39

    Side shifting the backhoe... something that should take a few minutes but always takes me longer... very easy to get the angle wrong when pushing with the hoe, so it just binds. Get it right and it slides easy. I'm sure with more practice I'll get faster. Yes Wajax is the Ottawa JCB dealer. Greg, I paid $19.5k (+ tax) for mine including delivery (1 hour). It came with 3 rear buckets, and a few hundred $$ worth of spares (pins and bushings). It had 3250 hours on it (the hour meter flashed on for a bit the other day). Depending on condition and accessories I've seen them go anywhere from $14k (older 210s) to $25k, I've only looked at machines priced in that range though, so newer lower hour units will of course go for more. A good working backhoe this size should have no problem getting around $20k.

  29. #29hookedondiesel2014-10-26 05:58

    Thanks for all the tip's, Greg...they were very helpful. It runs fine and is in pretty good shape, all in all, it has the quick attach bucket, pretty neat, no need to get out of the cab, flip the lever and it unlocks from inside. There are a few electrical problems, it's not charging, wiper doesn't work and no dash gauges or roof lights. I'm pretty handy in that dept, so hopefully I'll get er done before the snow fly's. He does have the door and battery cover, also the "hydraulic lock's for the side shift don't engage, I'll have to look into that, but at the moment it's not a big issue for me. She digs nice and stop's good, brakes were also done some time ago. The lever on the right hand side of the steering wheel that controls the "wiper/lights" doesn't seem to turn at all, so I may have to take that apart. All in all, I'm pleased and the deal is done, don't have it yet but should have it this week, hopefully before the snow fly's anyways. Question,, I didn't ask him but what type of hydraulic oil does this take?

  30. #30CDNDIESELMONKEY2014-10-26 07:32

    Hyd46 is the hydraulic oil

  31. #31greg95042014-10-26 08:53

    Assuming all the hoses are in place, make sure that when you move the control lever that the lever on the valve stack moves. My guess is that it is not moving far enough to supply the clamps with fluid, so that it is in the free position. I took a guess at the machine serial number... but if you get me the serial number I can look up parts diagrams for you. Here is the hydraclamp controls:

  32. #32greg95042014-10-26 09:05

    Isn't that for warmer weather? I guess the older 210s may spec that. Just curious. For my 212s the manual suggests 32 for cooler weather.

  33. #33hookedondiesel2014-10-26 10:13

    Thanks for that, guys, is that a regular iso 32 weight hydraulic oil? Do the hydraulics and trans share the same oil? Thanks for that picture Greg, I'll check that out when I get, as soon as I get the serial number, I'll let ya know, forgot to get it and i just asked him to send it.

  34. #34CDNDIESELMONKEY2014-10-26 17:51

    I'm not that familiar with the older units. New ones use 46 for Minus 20 celsius to plus 50. But it seems guys just pour in whats on sale ***

  35. #35hookedondiesel2014-10-27 05:05

    Thank's, and thanks again, Greg.... I'm looking for someone to float my machine over there and pick his up. I know of a fella around here but doesn't do the Quebec side.

  36. #36greg95042014-10-27 08:21

    I don't know of anyone personally, but if you search Kijiji for "float" / "machine transport" you'll get a bunch of hits.

  37. #37hookedondiesel2014-10-27 09:01

    Thanks Greg, I just found a guy in my area, 125$ hrly, not so bad. Looks like I may have a new toy by the weekend...lol

  38. #38lockeed2016-05-29 19:28

    Lots of great info. Thanks for sharing. Greg, could you send anything you got for the 210SL? Just bought one a couple weeks ago. Looking for the operator's manual, service manuel etc... I can provide my email by private message if you want. Thanks

  39. #39greg95042016-05-29 21:58

    I sent you an email with links to the manuals. But if your's is a 1994 the manuals will only give you a general idea, as they are for the newer style that started production around 2002 but they share a lot of similarities with the older models.

  40. #40lockeed2016-05-30 08:11

    Thanks a lot Greg. If you ever come across the manual for the older models, let me know.

  41. #41Dsiss32016-07-17 22:31

    Recently purchased a 2005 jcb 212s and could use the online manual if could hook me up thanks

  42. #42matthew murman2020-01-11 15:58

    I have a 1997 jcb 212s that is giving me some problems. It won’t go into forward or reverse. I don’t think it’s the switch on the gear shifter(I put a brand new one in today) I looked at the switch on the steering column and that one is in good order, also relatively new. If it’s a fuse or relay could someone send me a diagram of which fuse operates what and what relay goes where? Barring that where should I look now? I’m not new to machinery but this is my first jcb.