So I have a jcb 217s backhoe plowing snow last year pushing a pile up I hit a rock by my driveway and went to back up and the it wouldn't move ended up losing both forward and reverse. Had to drag it with the hoe back to where it's parked now. So I decided to put a new power shift shifter in it which wasn't the problem. Checked the tran screen and changed the fluid still nothing. Put the parking brake on and off safety switch works as it should. Ended up calling a jcb mechanic 1k later he checked trans pressure in reverse and it checked out I guess. He went over the safety switch said they were fine and he had power at the solnods. He told me he thought the input shaft is broken. I don't think I could have broke that doing what I was with it. Im very easy on it. So I pulled the bell housing cover off and fired it up the flywheel and torque converter spin fine with no wobble. Now if the input was broken it would effect the converter since it wouldnt have rear support? Need some help not sure what can be it's issue? I feel it's electrical can't hear the solenoids click when shifting it. Thanks in advance for any help
When you lift the back wheels off the ground can you turn them by hand & the drive shaft turns ? Try it in gear and see if there's resistance? I'm not a mechanic and just shooting in the dark because I can't see how hitting a rock would effect a solenoid.
The torque is bolted to the flexi plate on the flywheel and the the other end has the drive lugs which drive the gearbox charge pump with a support via a small white bearing material bearing so it would run even and sweet and you would not tell from the inspection hole. The input shafts sometimes break where the clutch basket is friction welded on you will normally get pressure but no drive and very little debris in the oil. Try lifting wheels of the ground and get someone to operate whilst listing near gearbox underneath sometimes you will here afaint noise whilst turn of clicking or jumping. Does the rear wheels whilst in the air try to turn? The inputs do break from time to time item no 2 I guess yours is a sychro shuttle so has a manual gear stick and electric forward / reverse stalk if electrics are good to the the solenoids on the top of the box and have been checked and you have main line pressure present then looks as if you have a fault in the internals . If its powershift all controls on the stalk no gearstick then it is a combination of relays and solenoids to make this work correctly ie you would have forward relay and forward clutch pack energized also either mainshaft or layshaft and either forward /reverse high or low ratio relay / solenoids as well . The only thing that would stop selecting direction electrically would be either the relays or on your front loader lift lever you have two buttons one is return to dig postion and the other is transmission dump this will nock the transmission into false neutral ,these had a fault where the wire that goes down the lever used to rub through to earth and put trans in neutral position try locating the wiring plug at the base of the levers where the either remove cover from lever pod or from under neath the machine unplugging will stop that function.
With the tires in the air I can turn them by hand. Mine is a powers shift model. I'm going to look into the button wire on the shifter. Which part do i need to unplug that will disable that function? Anything else I can look for? Guy told me it would be 13k to fix the tranny tractor is worth like 20k and I don't have that kind of money unfortunately.
Also I did hit the dump valve on the shifter when pushing the pile then right after that it wouldn't move. Could the dump valve stick open?
You will be able to turn the wheels in the air unless you got a diff lock as the other wheel the other side will rotate the other direction. There are two plugs just at the bottom of the lift lever joystick just unplug both remember which is which though . Before you unplug if you press the button on the joystick for netural / dump button used when loading lorries did this work before and also you should here the netural relay click in and out with the button in and out as this dumps the trans f / r relays out but not the high /low or layshaft/ mainshaft. Check that first. On the gearbox you can test each clutch pack pressure as there are little grub screws to remove and fix a test port in. It might be worth checking and may be swapping relays around only if they are like for like i think on yours they will be green and blue in colour but if you have skinny oblong black ones these fail quite regular , when you come to an abrupt stop you may have dislodged one worth a fiddle i guess. Not sure but does yours have a pedal to left that does the dump as well its been a while as you could also check that this also if you have it (think it was only synchro shuttle though
I will do just that. Thank you very much I'll post my findings.
What Jeff mentioned about the dump clutch makes sense sure hope your only problem is the clutch disengaged.
what did you do with the old power shift shifter?
The old one is in it. The new one I sent back was a pricey part. I figured I can get another one if I have to
When you get to that point let me know. it is most likely a clark/dana/spicer EGS most have a self test I can send you. If it is bad email me for more options
So I went and tried to here any clinking from the dump valve button but engine is too loud to hear. One thing I noticed when I shift it forward or reverse the rear drI've shaft will spin untill it takes the slack up in the diff then it will stop. Then if I shift it to reverse it goes the other way. Seems to me I don't have enough pressure for it too move. Aka dump valve or something. Can anyone confirm if the input was broken if it would still do this? Also does this mean my shifter solenoids are working as they should? I did see some valves sticking up on top if the Trans near the middle I could see shinny metal does that mean anything? Need to located the dump valve couldn't see it in my search. Any help would be great I appreciate it greatly
The dump works by deselecting the forward / reverse so it goes into neutral if you just turn ign on so warning lights on and remove the ign buzzer you can run through the sequence that way but will need to release hand brake to do this. By what you are saying that the output shaft is taking up slack either direction but wont drive points to clutch basket broke off of its shaft . Si i would start by selecting forward and then twist the stalk and go through the gears 1-4 and then the same in reverse. If you still have no drive then it will be the basket broke as before you need a combination of solenoids to get drive which configure differnt across 1-4 gears This might help understand the path the drive takes when selecting different gears / direction. If the JCB guy tested pressures you should have a copy of what they found and he should of put a gauge at least on main line pressure so it should of read about 9 - 12 bar pressure and when you change direction or select another gear the pressure will quickly dip and then come back up to mainline again. If the shaft has broken you wont find any bits until you pull the piston out.
Does your transmission warning light/ buzzer work as this would normally be screaming out at you if you have lost pressure.
The other thing to put your mind straight would be to remove the rear prop to the axle and try running up through the gears and watch for selection and speed change the broken shaft / hub will drag the shaft around but if you try jamming the hand brake disc with a piece of timber you may feel it jumping/grinding possibly but be careful trying that .
After I start the tractor I don't hear a buzzer if I put it in normal driving mode in gear. Jcb tech said he tested reverse pressure plugs were froze in on others and said pressure was fine. So my problem isn't simple fix based on the output shaft spinning slightly in direction when shifting the tractor? Should I still chase the dump valve wiring or is that a waste of time
If the rear shaft is spinning chances are that dump is working as there is no valve for this just put machine into a false neutral . If you drop the rear prop of the hand brake disc 4 bolts and then get some one to put it into gear and disc should turn and then press the dump switch either floor or lever mounted and the disc should stop turning if that makes sense might need a few revs though.
Ok I will see if I can try something of that nature. Are parts available to rebuild one? Thanks so much for your help really saved me
Great idea I will do just that this weekend.
The parts are easy over here in the uk but should be ok i guess ,The gearbox is not to bad to rebuild depending on your skill set.
Problem is I guess removing it I don't have any heavy duty jacks
I have got a picture and drawings of the cradle which goes on a trolley jack i could send you the drawings if you get stuck or a transmission jack is often used.
There should be a "Relay" like Jeff said,, around the fuse's in the fuse box, this relay should "click" when the dump button is pushed...just turn on the ignition "without" starting the engine to hear better.