Well got the bucket cylinder rod built due damage. Good job and cylinder rod mik'ed right on 50mm and original barrel is excellent. The problem is the piston and head seals are so tight it takes a huge effort to move the rod and head. However I did manage to get everything in except the internal snap ring and it is becoming a big problem. I am using a hose clamp, first try I had center of clamp on snap ring and drove head with brass punch and 4 lb. hammer. One plow it moved in to where the snap ring half entered the tapper leaving just enough of it to clamp and compress. When I get it compressed and hit one time the clamp jumps off. The head will move but its going to take 3-4 blows but I cant keep the clamp on long enough. The head needs to move in 1/4-5/16 and its a done deal. BTW the barrel is straight and slick. To remove the head I had to use a come-along on the rod to get the head out . No rust everything nice,shinny and no burrs. I am at a lost what to do and am 75 miles from a hydraulic shop and hate to take the whole cyl off.
Get a piston ring compressor that will expand enough to go over the rod eye.
Are you having trouble getting the head past the lock ring groove in the barrel? I can’t really track what you are trying to say. If that’s the case John Deere packing kits come with a split ring that fits into the lock ring groove in the barrel. That will fill the groove allowing the lock ring to slide past. Once it slides past then you remove the split ring and slide the head back into the groove.
Mg 2361, is this the same old JD style cylinder gland that has one wire retaining ring to hold the gland into the cylinder, or is this a different design?
Sounds like it.
This is a bucket cylinder with wire lock ring. Its off a 2011 JD 310J w/ 1900 hrs. The gland moved in so that the ring is about 1/4 in. from entering the barrel when clamp jumps off the ring from multiple blows as now the clamp is just barley over the ring but compresses the ring all the way. Just cant keep the clamp on (backs off). A friend came by and said that the gland needs to move the required distance quickly to get the ring in. Well that ain't going to happen as it takes several blows to move 1/8 in.
Pictures would be nice. Could you load some pictures and maybe I can help you a little better. Pictures of the barrel, and gland.
Is this it ?? This is one of two different cylinders on the website. ---> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59083/referrer/navigation/pgId/229358316
Yeah Tinkerer, that's what I saw and got confused by, the diagram I saw had two rings and I remember only one. The old style you got the gland into the cylinder past the groove and then pushed the ring into the space between them, it locked into the internal groove and you pulled the rod back out to seat the gland against the ring. I don't know if that's the same style or not.
Yes Delmer, the loader bucket cylinder has a ring on the outside of the rod guide to keep it from going in and one inside in a groove in the barrel to keep it from coming out. Also both cylinders listed in parts are of the same design. Widetrackman, Paul is correct. The packing kit comes with a filler ring to aid in removal of the cylinder. After the outside snap ring is removed the rod guide is then pushed into the barrel far enough to expose the groove in the barrel in which you place the filler ring. Then pull the rod out.
The pic looks what I have. The problem is not getting the rod removed as I had the removal ring, but as I previously said, that I had to use a come a long to pull the rod out. The rod piston pulled out to the back of the head, although super tight. I could not bump out the head out so that's when I used the come a long. Again putting the rod/piston IN was very tight going in. once in I slid the Head down to the barrel and drove it in to where the wire ring was starting to inter the taper in the barrel. That is as far I could get it to go no matter how hard I tried to drive it in. The only thing I can think of is the kit had the wrong (outside) size o rings and backup ring, but it looked right This is the first time the cylinder has been packed and the tightest I've ever seen, however this is the first wire ring cylinder I have packed or should say tried. I think I'll take the whole dam thing the 75 mi. drive to the hyd. shop
When a piston or gland will not go in without brute force, unfortunately you need help widetrackman. One of the components may / probably be damaged already. Was it the piston or gland that has the severe drag going into the barrel ? Or both of them ?
I was thinking the same thing. Like the rod is bent.
Me to Paul. If the piston went in ok and then the severe drag starts when the gland is going in the rod may be bent. Maybe not, it is impossible to say without actually seeing what is happening with the assembly. It could even be the wrong seal kit in it.
The Rod was replaced due to chrome damage and slight bend, however it was working ok but I didn't like using it that way. Piston went into barrel ok but very tight. The head started into barrel just past the o-ring/backup ring, very tight and would not go any further period. The wire ring was just starting into the barrel taper and everything stopped. I think it's got something to do with the o-ring and back up getting wedged. When I finally got the head out the o and back-up rings looked ok. There is absolutely no damage to the head or end of barrel as I use brass punches.
How far is the piston into the barrel when the gland binds up ? Can you move the rod in or out any when the gland stops moving ?
Once I had put the wiper seal in backwards and I had a hard time getting the gland onto the rod. And once I did it was hard to move. Check your seal orientation this May be the problem.
If you left the barrel on the machine did you remember to loosen the hydraulic lines to let the pressure out as the piston goes in?
What's the odds of the gland having the wrong perimeter o-ring? If its too thick, it wont go. I see this a lot when someone has tried to match up seals. Just a thought.
I know on a 200clc the wear rings on the piston are 2 different thickness pull the rod out and make sure they are in the right place. I had this happen and had to beat rod in took it apart and changed ring position and it went right in.
I have dealt with issues before with this same style jd cylinder. The internal ring that goes around the head will pull against the groove in the cylinder can and create a raised ridge making removal and installation difficult. Run your hand around the stop lip to the opening of the can. You will probably find the ridge which must be ground down carefully or can replaced. Also the internal ring will fit into the wrong Grove on the head and will never go into the can in the wrong Grove. The way we do it is to stand it on its end, one guy takes two big slotted screw drives and pushes the ring together 180 then when compressed the other slaps the head with one smooth blow from large rubber mallet .