Hi All, So I had just done a lot of work on my '89 310C (3600 hrs, 2WD, farm machine, sporadic use for 20 years) to get it ready to drive it 15 miles to work on a property my wife inherited some years ago and had gotten overgrown with autumn olive. I had bought new batteries, new front tires, injection pump re-build by TPG, fixed all the lights, changed all the fluids/filters, in other words I thought it was good for another 300-500 hours. It has been a solid machine, always starts right up and besides belts, hoses here and there, o-rings and light bulbs, it has been relatively trouble free. So I cranked it up at 6am on Sunday to avoid traffic, and it just dies 3 seconds after the first puff of smoke. I turn the key back to ACC, then to ON, START, and no accessory or starter relay pulls in, total silence and darkness in all key positions. I check battery post voltage (12.65V), battery cables (12.65V), red cable at starter (12.65V), alternator output post (12.65V). So I have good batteries and good feeds to the big stuff. I attempted to remove instrument panel, but something was not allowing it to free up, and it looked like a rats nest in there, although I was glad to not see cuts/splices from previous owners. It was 25 degrees and still dark so I opted to go back to bed. Later in the day (and warmer) I went to try to revive it somehow. Still totally dead. Checked battery posts/cables for possible intermittent connection, but they were solidly on. Also ground connection to chassis was solid and free of rust. I didn't know what else to do, so I jiggled some of the the controls (FWD/Neutral/REV shift lever, clutch footswitch, light switches, punched the instrument panel, etc.), moved key switch in all positions, and all of a sudden I heard accessory relay pull in. Not sure what the last action was that made the electrics come back to life, but machine then started up normally. Then I pulled out all the fuses one by one, to see if I could replicate failure, but machine ran each time (except when Starter fuse pulled out). I jostled whatever harnesses I could get to, but nothing would cause it to die like it did in the morning. So now I'm scared to take it out on the open road and have it die on me. The only unusual factor was the temperature... I don't think I have ever operated it below 40-50 degrees, so I'm thinking that may have had something to do with it. Has anyone seen or heard of this anomaly on a 310 backhoe? Any tips on how to remove instrument panel/dash without breaking something (hard to see what's keeping it captive)? I want to check the accessory relay coil/contact connections and any other possible intemittent connections. Thanks
No idea but next time have a crappy screwdriver and cross the terminals at the solenoid with the key on and see if it starts. Mine did the same thing a year ago and still have screwdriver in the cab. Had power everywhere but solenoid when cranking. The dying right after start up is common for mine if it’s really cold and I don’t have the idle set high enough. I hate revving a diesel motor up when shutting off but it no likely start when low and really cold.
Thanks Harley, but I don't think there was power to the injection pump solenoid, so I don't think there would have been any fuel sent to injectors. It seemed like only things that are hardwired to battery had voltage (power circuits), but anything that went to keyswitch and/or accessory relay and instrument panel were dead. At first I figured accessory relay had frozen with the cold, but it did crank and start so that is not a possibility. Anyone have the repair manual for 310C (TM1420), I have TM1419 if someone would like to trade PDFs.
The heat or fan knob might be holding the console on. We're talking about the rectangle cover on the operator's right side, correct? I agree, it sounds like a relay sticking or the key switch even, not a starter or MAIN battery cable issue. Sounds like you're comfortable with electrical troubleshooting, so it shouldn't be hard to find with the cover off. I don't think it's that bad in there, once you open it up and lay the cover down, it will stretch out the excess wiring and make it easier to see.
Delmer, Yes, I'm referring to the rectangular dash panel on operator's right side. I was also thinking it has to be the key switch being flaky or a loose connection there, it's the only thing that can knock out all the electrics aside from a totally dead/disconnected battery. I will try to pry off the the knobs on the instrument panel and see if it comes out. One thing I had never noticed is that the Logic Module display lights have never worked since I have owned the machine, so no idiot lights. I was thinking I was lucky that nothing had failed because no warning lights. I do check the oil, coolant, hyd oil level every time I use it, just to be on the safe side. I will also test the Logic Module as described on the TM1419 manual I decided to buy recently. Any advice on getting Logic Module to work would be highly appreciated (fuse is good). Thanks for your input Delmer!