I have a 850J that has a 6way blade and we were pushing scrapers with and messed the front side of the blade up and now I'm not sure exactly how to rebuild it I have some ideas but would like to have some experienced guys give me there ideas. (yes you will say shouldn't push scrapers with 6way but that's all we got so we cant afford to go buy dozer to just push scrapers part of the time) My question is can I cut the original piece off and still attach it on the backside by cutting slots in the plate and welding new plate to the cross pieces inside the blade or how do you do that?
Yair . . . still learn'n I wouldn't even think of doing any cutting . . . just overlay a piece of half inch or three eighth straight on there. If you have a fab shop handy make a ply or cardboard template of the blade curvature and ask them to curve it on the press break . . . otherwise lay it on a rail tie or some such on the shop floor and bend it with a bucket edge or blade. Get it close, no need to be exact but always slightly overbend it so the centre sits tight against the blade and then it is quite easy to clamp or dog the top or bottom in. The plate needs to extend from just above the cutting edge to as high as you reckon on the blade . . . I'd probably take it right to the top. Centralise it for appearance of course and cut some (say) eight inch by two inch vertical radiused end slots on appropriate centres so you can plugweld through onto the original surface. . . you could use circles, they are easier to cut and the dumps can make handy spacers or washers. If you have issues with the bending just use narrower plates and put it on in several pieces. This used to be a pretty common repair/modification and most push tractors will have some form of similar reinforcing pad. It's a nice little straight forward job . . . others will probably talk different but post some pictures when you finish, (big grin) Cheers.
Like Scrub sez, only translated to Yank speech. That blade looks like she was pretty thin, no shame in punching through that's part of the deal with equipment. You abuse it a bit when it pays, and when it paysoof you fix it for the next job.
Thanks for the replies I was wondering if the slots would have to be as wide and then they could be filled with weld do it would be basically flush! Thanks Jerry
the blade on my old D6D looked about like yours when I got it, and I had a metal working company in omaha roll a piece of (I think) 1/8" hardox 200 to the same curvature of the template I made out of cardboard and cut it to fit the whole face. I plug welded four spots in the middle over the ridges going across the blade, along with welding all the way around the edge. that thing fit perfectly requiring zero pressure to bend it to fit. looks like new now. amazing part was how much more dirt I could roll up with a good curve on the moldboard.
If you want to pull that piece back out and weld it up before you cover it, there are several ways to go about that. Weld a series of brackets onto the bent part, and use wedges, or jacks to bend it back into place to weld.
like has been said re skin it , if you are going to keep pushing scrappers i would put an additional 4 foot wide piece 1/2 in. thick in the center to keep from doing it again .
I measured the blade and the original piece is 3/8" thick and was thinking of going with 1/2" thick on the new skin I have called around to places in Wichita and have found only one place that is able to roll that thick and of course they are busy and might not be able to do it till end of next week. How thick do you guys normally do it? Would 3/8" be thick enough again? the blade is 168" was measuring and to go outside of the injured area about 6" or so will be about 90" wide. If I go with 1/2" thick and fill in with weld kinda like a regular bevel will there be a problem with not being able to roll dirt back and forth a crossed it? There is a good possibility that machine will be traded end of this year so don't want to go to overkill! If I go with the 1/2" if we keep pushing scrapers do I need to put an additional 1/2" on to keep it good? Thanks Jerry
3/8" will be plenty and I would go the entire width of the blade. Look for some AR or similar steel. Twice as strong and longer wearing.