Looking over my JD310 boom pins and took these photos... Left Side Pivot Right Side Pivot How do these lower boom pivot points look??? Turns out the po was one who made do with what he had....look at those bolts???? I have a friend that owns a machine shop, if I can get the bucket, dipper and boom off, he said he will rebush and repin...thoughts? Looking at all of the other pins and bushings they seem to be tight. How long should it take a heavy equipment shop to remove the parts to get down to this point? Just trying to ballpark a budget. Thanks.
outbackrider, There were never any bushings in the boom itself where the bolt passes through. If you friend can put bushings in the boom where the bolt is please send us photos.
If you disassemble the boom on your time, not that big an expense, but if you hire a equipment shop to take boom apart to get main boom fit for repairs by a machine shop, you're looking a several hrs work at local shop rates. I don't know what services are in your area, but a mobile weld/line bore truck could do that repair on site without boom disassembly.
I just have to ask real quick: 1) I am pretty sure those pieces are cast and would be a little trickier to weld up than non-cast pieces, well unless there is a mig process that works with cast. (all bore welders that I've seen are MIG) Is there a mig process that works well enought with cast? 2) How would that line bore assembled? How would one keep both pieces exactly where you want them? I've given a fair amount of thought into how line bore is set up, but to do that with the level of accuracy needed while assembled makes me ask the question... respectfully of course!
I'm not a line bore expert liesureexpress, but I'm confident that there is a weld process that would work on that iron. And set up/centering wouldn't be a problem for an experienced bore technician. The reason I suggested line bore is that you wouldn't have to totally remove and disassemble boom. Set the bucket of hoe on ground with it fully rolled out so it can't move and teeth of bucket will steady boom, lift base of main boom with service truck crane, pull pivot pins, drive machine forward just enough to clear boom from pedestal, should be enough slack in hoses to do this, then set base of boom on blocks. Set up line bore equipment and have at it.
Thanks for the explanation willie59 I see what you are saying about "scissoring" them apart, but keeping them mostly connected to gain access - makes sense and I didn't think of that. Hopefully someone can chime in on the welding part, I know nickel based rods work with cast, but I'm pretty sure they are very hard too.
Well, I don't know if he's spotted this thread, but TomV does line boring, he would be way more qualified than me to comment on this repair, you might wanna shoot him a PM.
Yair . . . As I have posted here before I have repaired those sort of problems (assuming there is clearance) by welding machined bosses to the outside of the worn housing and making a longer pin. It can be a bit of messing around to line it all up but it is pretty simple really and provides a reasonable fix. Only problem is the unsupported length of pin running in worn area . . . which may or may not be a problem. When all is said and done it really isn't all that hard to cut on oversized hole and fit a new pin and weld in heavy wall bushes. You just need to get it straight is all. Things generally tighten up a bit with the welding but a few minutes with a Tennessee hone usually gets thing back to a slip fit. This methods were used before the days of line boring rigs like Tom's and we had no options when miles out in the bush . . . they still work though and for some folks doing the work themselves can save a bit of cash. Cheers.
That's a good idea Scrub, but what you mentioned would be exactly the problem with this arrangement. It's not a single pin going through that lower boom pivot point, it's a short pin on each side. Short pin goes through pin boss in lower main boom with bolt retainer (on both sides) and pin fits into bushing hole in swing post. Welding an extended pin boss on boom would have a lot of stress on it caused by the area of worn pin boss that extended pin/s goes through.
Yair . . . willie59. Gotcha mate. That explains it! Couldn't figure out how that pin wore like that! Cheers.
Thanks for the input. How bad would you consider these... worn, completely worn, or a disaster? Thanks again.
Possibly all of the above outbackrider, but it has to be repaired nonetheless, question is, best way to repair. I really would like to get input from TomV on this one. They do may MIG wire that is capable of welding cast or ductile iron.
Thanks willie...perhaps Tom V will be able to give his opinion. I have also have 2 cylinders that need attention. I figured I would do them first and then address this...since it all adds up to $$$. Thanks again for your input.
If I was to do a job on a cast piece as this is, I would bore & bush it.
There ya go, the opinion of an expert.
Thanks guys. TomV are you located in Bristol, CT ? Thanks again for your input.
Another humble "thanks for the input" TomV, with just a few words gives direction that saves large amounts of time wondering and searching for which way to go. outbackrider, check out TomV's thread here on this forum at this link. Lots of EXCELLENT info in pictures of how to go about it:
Yes I am from Bristol, CT. Good luck. TOM V
Thanks Leisureexpress....wow that is quite a post..Tom's work is first class. Tom V thanks, your a master at your craft. I'm just over in Woodbury, if it is ok I will be calling you. You know your stuff, thanks again.
If you need help don't hesitate to call me, I would be glad to help you.
Awesome...I will send you a pm. Thanks Tom.
I just traded for a 310c last year and one of the first things i had to do was replace these bushing and pins. this is my first post and i need to build up so i can ask a question. really enjoy the site and have started from knowing nothing about a backhoe to being able to work on my own and enjoy using it around the farm. Thanks for opportunity to get started.
Hi Outbackrider, I also have a JD 310c and have done quite a bit of work on it already in the past 4 years since I've owned it. It's nice to have come across your post to know someone else close by my City of Ansonia, CT so to help each other and compare notes..., I was starting to think there was nobody else near by so we can help each other like I can help you remove the boom off your machine by using my backhoe to lift it, the only thing is I need to find someone that can transport it around for me. I really don't like to drive it anymore than a half mile away. Also TOM V I believe I never had the chance to correspond with you, nice to see you. Joe
Joey - I road my 310C pretty much everywhere. I have taken it 40 miles in one shot. Just check your fluids, grease your U-joints, turn on you senses and go. Never a problem. Two weeks ago, a very dear friend bought himself a new 580N in Sudbury at the Case dealer (of course). He lives 98 miles away in a little town called Balsam Creek. The salesman asked him where he would like it floated to, and my friend's answer was first a question: "didn't you just sell me a machine with air conditioning and ride control?" "errr, yes, yes I did." said the salesman. "Well then" said my friend, "fill it up full of fuel and I'll be on my way". His logic was that if no problems developed during a 98 mile drive home in 90 degree weather, the machine should go a long time before something goes wrong with it. He joked with the salesman about roadside assistance being part of the warranty. He made it without issue in about 5 hours. :drinkup
I believe I would have let them deliver it, if nothoing else to save the wear on the tires... Dave
Joeye, Thanks for your response. Yeah, my machine is of the original 310 vintage...not as updated as your 310c. Mine will be used for around the property, etc. I thought of buying a smaller machine but with the work that I need to complete and the cost of the mid-size machines, I went with the full size unit. I am currently replacing the hoses, it's been a fun job. With this post, I was referred to Tom V who, if you check out the link that leisureexpress posted above you will find he has done some amazing work, it is over 40 pages of awesome work. ...I will be calling him for any heavy work that my machine will require. I also drove my machine 19 miles home, over the road, with a smv marker. Had a policeman drive right by...no problem. Early Sunday morning, took me 3 hours, but I was going over some large hills...other than a bit of smoke when she started to get hot, I made it without a hitch....Thank God....went to use it a few days later and blew my first hyd hose...at that point, I decided to replace all hoses. I used to have an old Ford 8n with a loader and hoe on it...wow... now that was a machine, kept blowing hoses and learned my lesson...just get them changed and in the long run....save time, money on hyd fluid, keep from taking those oil showers and not have to keep fixing it every time I use it. :usa
Hi Outback... I experienced the same thing you have with hyd. hoses needing to be replaced, mine were blowing all the time, my machine sat for a few years out of service before I got it, so I was popping too many hoses so I needed to pull out the seat to pull up the floor to replace all the swing hyd hoses. I tried reading on line what the deal is with being able to drive on the road, it looks like backhoes are grouped in with farm equipment, and there are a lot of restrictions, like I read where they stated even if its registered it can only be driven to get to the other property by way of the legal roadway..., I just might have been reading all the wrong information pertaining to backhoes, so don't anybody take this to heart, if anybody knows for sure what the laws are in backhoe and the road I'd like to start another post so not to hijack this one. But I'm still unclear about what the State of Connecticut allows even if the machine is registered...... I have heard from someone who talked with a Police Officer who said that they leave the backhoes alone, so this most likely is true but its not something I'm willing to take the chance with being I don't know for sure if this is the fact out there for the State of Connecticut that all Towns and Cities will leave backhoes alone when seen being driven on the roads, registered or not. I say this because for all I know is my machine can be taken away and to never be seen again, and don't anybody think for once that cannot happen, as far as I'm concerned its along the line of when the kids would get caught driving off road dirt bikes, mini bikes, and even unregistered vehicles on the roads were able to be taken away by the police. Not to jack this post I'd like to start one about everybody's input on this, what they know to be fact, their experiences, etc...
You got that right dwloop! the few times I drove it around the neighborhood for a few jobs I can see how much they wore down, and at $500 a tire.... geeeze!!
Joeye Your close, Im in monroe ct I have a couple of holes in my JD410 that look like that. When its not greased and it needs to be fixed on the fly is when they get like that. like a egg to fix them sucks
Scrub Puller what the heck is a Tennessee hone?
Yair . . . Diagonal Brace. LOL. Yeah mate that's just the split mandrel thing that you wrap the emery tape around and spin it in a drill. Some blokes here call them 'Arkansas hones' or 'Bedourie hones' I honestly don't know where I got the 'Tennessee' thing from but I have known them as that for as long as I remember. Cheers.