Having a problem with the loader control. When I curl the bucket up under a heavy load, it wants to drop the load unless I pull hard and fast on the loader handle toward the operator seat, then it curls ok. I can however, control the uncurling of the bucket under load. It only seems to effect the curling up of the bucket as the lifting of the bucket up or down works just fine. I don't know if this is a worn spool valve, mis-adjustment of loader handle or something to do with the load leveling feature not acting properly. There is an electrical connection for a sensor that i have disconnected to try to see if that helped but it did not. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance.
I would disconnect the bucket leveler linkage and see if it is binding at all. It should be all manual linkage. I have also seen rocks get wedged in the linkage bellcrank under the loader lever.
I have a 310D, older than the E but I installed all new seals and o-rings in the loader valve 2 years ago and found about 3 o-rings completely destroyed. You could also have worn o-rings. If your keeping the machine and you can't see anything wrong outside the valve it's quite inexpensive to reseal this control valve.
It doesn't sound like it's the leveler linkage since that is a mechanical system. If it was the leveler linkage opening the valve to level the bucket it wouldn't allow you to pull the control any further to open the valve and keep the bucket from dumping. I would look in to the control valve it sounds like there's a bad o-ring on the spool allowing oil to bypass until the valve is opened fully.
Sounds like the check valve is not sealing
I think that the O rings sound like the ticket. The bucket will hold it's position when the loader valve is in neutral so the check valve appears to be functional. I will tear into the valve at the first opportunity and see what I find. Thanks for the great advice on this topic. I may be tearing into the backhoe valve as well. The dipper will not hold in neutral, and slowly returns toward the main boom. You have to slowly add fluid at the valve to keep it up in the air. Interesting thing though is that the cylinder has an aftermarket sticker on it so it appears to have been worked on previously. It may just be the seals on the cylinder. Is there a simple way to isolate one from the other without lots of hose re-routing? Lastly, the hour meter seems to stick at times. Then it will run for a while. Then stick again. The RPM part of the gauge is fine and it has a light that is operational. Any thoughts on that? Thanks in advance.