Stumbled on this forum, and hopefully some one can help with a few questions. Bought an old JLG 2646E2 scissor lift for home use. It seemed in pretty good shape. Got a new set of batteries and off we go. All seems perfect, but when I drive the machine, if I encounter even a little lump on the concrete, it stalls. The drive/drives seem to have very little "power". The machine lifts quickly, and everything else seems fine. Any ideas on where to look first. Thanks
Nobody ?
Welcome to HEF Pablox. :usa A place to start would be make sure the tow valve isn't either defective or is partially open. If that's OK, you need to connect a test gauge to MP (test) port on valve manifold, disconnect wiring connections to drive control valve, activate the drive joystick, and check the pressure of the main relief valve, should be set at 3,000 PSI.
Thanks for your help. I have an electrical background , but not too hot on hydraulics, but I will try. The machine has brand new batteries, new oil filter and new oil. According to the (working) hour meter, it has 340 hours done, I have no idea regarding the "average" life of hydraulic pumps or drive motors (Parker), on these type of machines Maybe there is nothing wrong at all, because I have never had one of these machines before, but I do know, if you attempt to move onto gravel, one wheel spins and the other does nothing, or else both wheels stall. It will however drive happily on concrete. I realise it is only suitable for driving on a flat surface, I just expected it to make a better effort. If one wheel is spinning, i.e slightly "off the ground", should the other wheel attempt to drive, or is there any way to make it do so. Thanks
P.S the "tow valve" is definitely rotated fully clockwise.
Keep in mind these are what's known as "slab machines", meaning, they're made for flat/level ground. However, they should have drive power to pull a slight grade, can't remeber the degree they are rated for. As for one wheel spinning when slightly off the ground, causing loss of drive movement from other wheel being static, to a degree this is normal. If you have standard drive controls (not proportional) you can remedy this temporary loss of traction by engaging Hi drive. If you have proportional controls, you should have a "Traction" button on the membrane pad, push and hold the traction button when one wheel is spinning, release button once you've moved off the unlevel terrain.
Bit of a thread resurrection, but may help someone some day. After 3 years ( I don't rush things ), I decided to have a look at the scissor lift. Did as "willie59" said checked the tow valve, only visual but looked fine and seemed to operate fine. Next got a pressure gauge and disconnected the drive solenoids, and moving the joystick either direction got a max pressure of approx 1700 psi.Began to think my pump was ill. Running out of "plans" I removed the 3 little relays on the board, with the intention of swapping them. I then noticed one of the tiny pins completely bent over. Carefully straigthened the pin and re inserted. Not very optimistic, I tried the joystick again and bingo, hallelujah over 3000 psi on my gauge. Now my lift travels just fine. Result :drink P.S. Thanks "willie59" for pointing me in the right direction. :thumbsup
Brother, no matter how we got there...I'll hoist a mug with ya as long as we get it done! :drinkup
And yet another mega thread resurrection. Never really used my JLG 2646E2, but kept it charged and looked after the batteries. Also every couple of months would check operation was OK. Lo and behold, today was the day when I actually needed my lift, to help finish the shed I have built. It has always been perfect when I didn't need it, but of course it wouldn't move today. It will lift and it will steer, but absolutely nothing happens on drive, either forward or reverse. No clicks, no relays to he heard, nothing. I am an electrician, had no tools this evening apart from a Swiss army knife. I had a quick look in the control box and the "trigger" part of the joystick brings on an led. The "hatches open" limit switches on both battery and pump sides of the machine appear to function, as I can hear the contact operation. The tilt switch appears ok and anyway it doesn't stop it from driving. Anyone any tips before I have to start tracing. Should I suspect the controller and anyway to test it. Any help appreciated. Thanks
Bit more info, had a quick look today. Lifted the control box lid. The trigger switch works and "lights" the trigger led. Pressing the side button, lights the "enable" led. Nothing happens moving the joystick either up or down, (with trigger pulled)