My 210LE decided to quit driving. It quit driving the other day and after a few minutes started to drive again, a few days later it stoped driving and no amount of shifting or jiggling made a difference. When you shift forward to reverse the drive shaft moves but will not move the machine. Trans fluid is to the top, the dump button on the loader control is functioning fine. I have checked the wiring harness, relays and fuses. I have never had a drive power problem in the past. When it stopped driving it was sudden and sharp like hitting the loader dump button, not a gradual weakening like a clutch pack starting to slip. Machine has 2,800 hours on it. Any ideas on where else to start looking would be appreciated.
Power passing through the FNR? Your serial indicates it is a powershift, correct? Has the K10 timer relay been checked? My money is on that being the issue. It is not a standard relay. It has circuitry inside it and when they fail, you lose drive. Make sure you have power coming out of pin 1 (J28 Tan wire) on that relay when engaged in gear. If not, then check the inputs to the relay. Pin 3 will have voltage only when shifted into FWD or REV, Pin 4 needs a constant voltage source. Pin 6 has voltage when the park brake is released and pin 7 has a good ground.
Your park brake may be applying. Did you check trans oil level when machine was running.
The machine is a power shift. I'm not sure if I ever had a parts manual or service manual, I can only find the operators manual. I googled the K10 timer but nothing comes up. Can you describe where it may be. I cleaned all the fuses and the six relays that are next to the fuses and there was nothing wrong there. Like I noted the tranny oil level is fine and the filter is only a couple hundred hours old. The oil is clear and smells normal. If you have a JD part number for the timer I can probably find info that way. Thanks for the response.
The parking brake seems to be functioning fine. It does stop the drive shaft from moving back and forth when shifting from forward to reverse and the alarm works. When shifting the drive shaft moves but has no drive power. When it quit driving it was sudden and a positive disconnect like hitting the brake button. Didn’t feel like a clutch pack slipping or a torque converter failure.
It should be with the other relays. I don't have the specific location of which one in the stack. Post a picture of the relays. Maybe I can identify which one from that. Or look for wire numbers and color. It will have the following connected to it: T21 Blue wire, G38 Black, J28 Tan and a J27 Tan.
I’ve included some pictures of the relays, fuses and another device I’m not sure what it is. The 3 relays all have the same part number so I switched them around but had no effect.
Check this relay as directed in post #2.
This relay is really tough to find, I doesn’t show up in the parts book on any of the wiring diagrams that I have found so far. The picture I’ve included shows this particular on is made by Chrysler. The only one I’ve found a picture of says it’s made for Chrysler window relay. There is one on eBay that has the same male pattern but is smaller in length. I tested the connector and there is power to the relay. The red wire is hot when the key is on. The blue wire is hot when shifting in forward and reverse, same with the yellow wire. Both showing 13.7 volts. Black is ground. All wires are dead, except red, when the brake is applied.
Picture of Chrysler insignia.
If you have 13 volts coming out pin 1 with a Tan wire when you are in forward or reverse, then the relay is working. Next I would move to the FNR lever to see if you have voltage to that. FNR has a 4 pin and a 5 pin connector. Check these pins by backprobing as well. 4 pin connector pin A (Pink wire) should have 12 volts when the key is on. The 5 pin connector should have voltage to pin E (Tan wire) when the PB is released and the shifter is placed into forward or reverse. If you have voltage to theses, then check the outbound wires to the solenoids. Check your PM's. The part number for that relay is in post #6. $380 big ones.
ATTACH] I couldn’t find any thing wrong in the wiring so I decided to take the relay apart. It had a bad solder joint shown in the picture. Look at the pattern of four and you will see the bad joint. Remelted the solder with a sharp tip iron and I’m back in business. Right now I have a $380.00 dollar smile on my face!
Good job! Glad to hear it is fixed.
I want to thank mg2361 for pointing me in the right direction. This timer relay is really hard to find information about.
That is awesome. Thanks for sharing how you resolved the issue. GM trucks are notorious for same kinda problem on EBS Modules. EBS light appears on dash, you remove the module and resolder certain pins on board, problem goes away.
A couple more photos for other people that may have a similar problem. Relay board photo. Repaired board photo.
Can you tell me Where this relay was on your tractor or anything it’s close to so I can find it on ours since we have the same issue
Welcome to HEF ajshepherd ! Read the posts , #6 and #8 will get you very close
Mine was located to the left of the brake pedals, basically on the fire wall. There is a photo if you look close you can see the brake pedals. It’s the size of a cigarette pack.
John Deere 210LE SN: 0210LE885920 Power Shift I've read through this whole thread and I'm having the same issue and symptoms as Spiva Constr had with 210LE. Going into gear, forward and reverse, but only moves 1-2 inches then rolling back to the same spot when returning to neutral. I went to Pape yesterday and pickup the updated replacement part for the Time Delay Module and installed but it didn't fix the problem. It seems that I may have an electrical connection issue. I have power at the red wire (which is supposed to be deleted and terminated with the updated time delay module), but I have no power on the tan wire J28 with the engine running and the bake switch ON. Should I suspect the FNR lever is faulty?
Welcome to HEF Ian ! Do you have the specific 210LE instructions involving a diode?
Great fix, having a good look at the circuit board, the other contact terminal of the SPST [single pole, single throw relay TB1-160] has fatigue on the solder as well and will be a fault in time. This is a classic dry joint where current flow and physical fatigue [relay toggling] will cause solder to break down over time and go open circuit. Use some extra flux [non acidic resin] and reflow all the joints on the relay so they are smooth and add a little more just to be sure.
Sorry for the late reply. I appreciate your help. No, I don't have specific 210LE instructions involving a diode. Update: After replacement of the time delay module, last week, I realized that I didn't have 12v coming from the tan wire coming from the FNR lever upstream from the delay module, so I ordered a new FNR lever which I installed tonight. It didn't fix anything. I'm pretty sure I bought both the Delay Relay Module and the FNR Lever for no good reason. I have no voltage at either tan wire at the Time Delay Module with the brake switch on or off. I'm pretty sure the brake switch is working, because it does respond and it's sending power when the switch is turned to the OFF position. I'm not sure where to go from here.
There will not be any voltage on the J28 Tan wire to the FNR until the timer relay sends it. The FNR is downstream of the relay. Voltage to the timer relay comes in at the J27A Tan wire. The park brake is releasing? If so, then there is a break in the J27A Tan wire between the park brake switch and the timer relay.
Okay, I'll get on looking over that wire. Thank sir!
I have 12V at the park switch in OFF position. From the park switch, it goes through the firewall into the engine bay and then into a nicely furnished braided shrink loom (factory) that I really don't want to cut into. Where's it going from there? Is there a better place to find it to measure voltage so I don’t have to cut into that harness?
Do you have 12 volts at the J27A Tan wire at the PB switch? And no voltage at the timer relay? I would look real hard at the harness at the back of the engine for areas of loom that may be rubbed through. If no issues found there, then look the harness over real good from there to the timer relay for damage.
I figured out the problem. I switched the plug orientation upfor the loader neutral switch. I originally thought that could have been the problem so I moved the back a nd forth (before buying the time delay module of FNR lever) but that didn't change the problem. Maybe it was a combination of both. I don't know for sure. I'm just happy to be over that problem. This machine is now spotless clean, 360° and I'm happy about the way it's coming together. I'm working on painting it but that's still a lot of work to paint it and make it look like factory. On the positive side, I've learned a bit along the way. I'm also happy to be connected to HEF now. Thank you guys
Glad to hear you solved the issue and for sharing the resolution with us.