I bought a JD310B backhoe that I knew had issue running. The previous owner said he ran it out of fuel and never could get it started again. I can see he has put a new mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter on the backhoe. It will start using starting fluid, but I just did that to test that it would actually run. The air filter doesn't look so hot, but I can't get it out with the loader in the down position. I drained the tank and put new fuel in it, then cracked the lines at the fuel filter and mechanical pump and also at the supply going into the injection pump and it seems I have a supply of fuel all laces named. It leaks a small stream when I crack the pressure lines loose. I don't get fuel at the injector pump where it comes into the the actual injector. I read another thread where the return line from the injector pump to the tank had a screen in the fitting? I pulled the fitting and no screen in mine. (Like I said they were playing with this before I got it.) I think/suspect the injector pump is out of commission. Any additional advice would be greatly appreciated. Anywhere to send the pump for service anyone can recommend someplace. Also any instructions on removing and reinstalling the pump? How to get the engine at TDC. Where is the flywheel alignment peg? Thanks! Brent
So it ran ON ITS OWN when you started it with starting fluid??? or did you keep spraying? Did you check that it's getting voltage to the pump solenoid? and can you hear it click? That's the first thing to check. The return line plugging will cause it to stall after running a while, but it should still start. You can send it to Pumpguy (thepumpguysc) and he'll even tell you how to take it off, but save him some time and get the numbers off your pump first. The flywheel holes are directly behind the pump, big hole for the tool to turn it over and small hole to put a pin through to lock the flywheel. If you have a small metal plate on the side of the pump with two screws in it, that is the timing window for the pump, line the hash marks up inside and then you can pull the pump.
Thanks for the reply! No, I had to keep spraying the starting fluid to maintain any period of running. I am getting voltage tot the shutoff solenoid, but I suppose it could still be bad, even with voltage. Right? Can I take it out and test it somehow? Should there be a screen in the return line like I was reading? So for TDC, sounds like there's a place on the bell-housing to line the flywheel up for TDC. Line it up and then check the sight window in the pump to see if it's TDC. If not I probably have the flywheel 180 out and need to rotate it till the pump and flywheel are both TDC to get true TDC? Correct? I'll look to see if I can find the thePumpGuysc. Thanks! Brent
You got it, on my JD (different model but similar engine) there's a plastic plug and a medium size bolt facing forward in the rear plate of the engine. Remove those and the "timing window" and line up the marks, then put a punch or drill bit into the flywheel hole. If you have voltage to the pump, you can disconnect the wire and it should click each time you remove and reconnect it. If there's no click then take the top cover off the pump and work it until it's loose, or give the pump a bunch of good taps with a plastic screwdriver handle with the power on. I don't know what is supposed to be in the return outlet, an orifice or check ball if anything, but if there is fuel coming out of the fitting then I don't think that's your problem. Don't forget to post the numbers off your pump, or a pic of them.
I think I see the flywheel cover for the TDC alignment. Just looking maybe a 3/4 wrench bolt head or so, with a teardrop looking plate? I'll have to test the solenoid. I may try to take the top off like you say. It may be a few days till I get to try that. I am not getting fuel to the return line. I get fuel to the injection pump at the line coming from the filter where the inlet line connects. That's it. So getting fuel to the pump, but nowhere after that. It's hard to see the plate, as the plate is pointing downward, but it looks like the Injection pump is a: Stanadyne DB2-4455 (Could be D82-4455) Model 5551223 RE20557
One other question, please. How's the best way to manually crank the engine to find TDC? It doesn't look like I can get a socket on the front of the crank. Thought about pulling the starter and using a large screwdriver on the flywheel ring gear, tooth at a time......Sounds SLOW.... Brent
The dealer has a tool like a starter gear that goes in the big hole, but you could use a big flat screwdriver in that hole for fine adjustment. For turning it faster just grab the belt and fan blade and turn. That sounds right for the TDC holes. But first get the clicking to work and see if you can figure out why there isn't fuel coming out the return.
JUST GOT IN.. Thanks for thinking about me.. Sounds like you guys have narrowed it down.. Fuel TO THE PUMP.. Nothing coming out.. Solenoid is working. and fuel coming out the return.. Nothin' left to do but pull the pump.. YOU HAVE TO TIME THE ENGINE TO THE PUMP.. For ease of installation.. OR VISA VERSA.. otherwise.. you'll be cussin' US OR YOURSELF for not doing it.. Rotate the engine over till you see the lines line up in the side cover window.. and pull the pump.. the drive shaft will stay in the engine..
Well actually were not quite that far along yet. I get fuel to the pump. I can crack the pressure line where it goes into the inj. pump and a stream of fuel will flow. I don't get fuel out of the inj. pump anywhere. Not the return line or to the injectors. I need to better check the fuel shut-off valve. I am getting power to it, but no idea if it's working or not. Also should there be a screen/check-ball in the return fitting or under it? I'll try to get to testing the fuel shutoff in the next few nights. Dependent on the weather. If it comes to be the pump, do you rebuild them? If so about what does it run? Thanks, Brent
DO REBUILD THEM?? Thats funny right there..I dont care who you are..lol [larry thecable guy]
Brent.. I'll send you a PM.
Well I finally got out on the backhoe again tonight. As I told you I am getting electricity to the fuel shutoff solenoid valve. Tonight I disconnected the wire at the valve. I then turned the key to on and checked that I was getting electricity, and I was. I then touched it tot the valve terminal and expected to hear a noise, but no noise. So I then connected my test light to the wire and touched the test light to any ground, and the test light came on. So the light and wire were working. I then touched the test light to the terminal on the valve and no light. I then touched the test light to the grounded side of the valve switch and it came on. So I think the fuel shutoff valve is bad? Any words of wisdom on that? I wonder how expensive that part is I could run and get that tomorrow and try replacing it? Thanks, Brent
OK, sounds good. Please see my latest test results regarding the fuel shutoff valve. "Well I finally got out on the backhoe again tonight. As I told you I am getting electricity to the fuel shutoff solenoid valve. Tonight I disconnected the wire at the valve. I then turned the key to on and checked that I was getting electricity, and I was. I then touched it tot the valve terminal and expected to hear a noise, but no noise. So I then connected my test light to the wire and touched the test light to any ground, and the test light came on. So the light and wire were working. I then touched the test light to the terminal on the valve and no light. I then touched the test light to the grounded side of the valve switch and it came on. So I think the fuel shutoff valve is bad? Any words of wisdom on that? I wonder how expensive that part is I could run and get that tomorrow and try replacing it?"
IF you have running BIO FUEL its just stuck.. The P# is 26214 {Roosa Master/ Stanadyne P#** I think the hard part is going to be finding the tamper proof bit to get the top cover off.. IF IT HAS THEM.. some are 5 point torx with a "***" in the middle and some are 6 pt torx w/ the same and some are 6 pt torx w/ NO ***.. and some are just a 5/16" hex.. Once you get the TC off.. Hook a hot wire to the post and a ground to the cover and check the solenoid operation.. BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OUT OF THE COVER.. IF you don't know weather or not your running bio fuel.. just smell it.. it smells like OLD French fry/fish grease.. rub some on your clothes and walk into the house.. and ask the wife.. SHE'LL TELL YOU in a skinney minute.. lol
I don't know the resistance of a good solenoid coil, or the power it takes to light your test light, but I'm guessing if you did this in the dark and didn't see any glow, then your coil is burned out. Did you see any spark when touching the wire back to the terminal? Do you have a multimeter/ohmmeter? I'd guess the ohms should be less than 100, if it's bad the resistance will be much higher (~infinity).
Using the multimeter it was getting 12.31 volts tot the solenoid. I pulled the top cover and tested continuity, there was none. I then tested the solenoid off a fresh new battery and nothing. The solenoid moves freely so I'm pretty sure it's bad. Going to see if I can find one locally. Will let you know. Brent
No idea on the bio-diesel. It smells like good old diesel, not like french fries. The bolts where small hex head bolts with slots so no issue there. Using my multimeter I'm getting 12.31 volts to the solenoid. I pulled the top cover and tested continuity, there wasn't any. I then tested the solenoid off a fresh new battery and nothing. The solenoid moves freely with my finger, so I'm pretty sure it's bad. Going to see if I can find one locally. Will let you know. Thanks, Brent
Kool.. put a pos.+ on the 1 post and a neg.- on the other and see if it pulls in.. Thanks for keeping us up to date.. we're here to help..
Did that and it does nothing. Having a problem now locating a solenoid locally. Nobody seems to be able to convert that part number 26214. I can find it online, but not locally? Guess I'll call John Deere next. Thanks so much, Brent
ANY injection pump shop will have 1.. Just look in the phone book under diesel.
Well the only one around was backordered for weeks and the JD dealers all were out. The pump shop did have a used one that was good and he sold me that. Desperate times mean desperate measures! LOL! Long story short, it runs! Seems to run pretty well below 1500 RPM, but above that and there's some fluctuation in the motor. Wonder if the injectors need to be cleaned or replaced? Thanks for all your help! Brent
How long did you run it and did you work it? Maybe it still has air in the system? give it a few minutes.
Ran it about 30 minutes. It does seem to be getting better. It's been sitting for about a year or more. I did drain the olf fuel and put in new fuel along with new filter, etc... Plan on changing all fluids today or tomorrow. Does it really take 20+ gallons of hydraulic fluid? Wow! Brent
Glad you found 1.. I was getting ready to send you 1.. but didn't think you wanted to wait that long. Did you notice and "coffee ground" looking pieces inside the pump when the TC was off? The flutter might be air or a slight timing adjustment is needed. Just make a reference mark on the pump housing and the block to show you where you started from and loosen the bolts that hold the pump and give it a SMALL twist.. RETIGHTEN the bolts and try it.. IF its worse, go the other way.. if no improvement, go back to original marks..
Get it out and work it pretty hard, clear the fuel system of any air, get fresher fuel flowing thru the system and it should get better.
Pump guy sc can you give me a call as I have some questions regarding a 310 b 757-355-2331
Can of biocide diesel treatment or a name brand diesel injector cleaner probably wouldn't do it any harm either.... And change that air filter! 20 gallons of hydro? Pfft, I've run machines leaked that much in a single shift, LOL.
Is the pump guy still in business?
Yes.. I’m still kickin ..
.. ass and taking names!