This has been a good machine that runs and operates well. She's a 1996 model. I was just moving a stump that rolled onto one of my trails and heading back to where I park the machine when the machine slipped out of gear on her own. I jiggled all controls, gear selectors. Used both neutral buttons on the bucket handle and the gear selector. No help. Then I shut off the engine. It would not crank after that. I checked fuses - found one that was butt connectored in (I think). It was an inline 10 amp fuse that looks like it goes to where the K6 relay (Neutl) is. I replaced that 10 amp inline fuse and now the machine starts and runs but still won't go into gear. I tried swapping around the relays to see if that K6 relay was bad. That didn't make a difference either. Each time I try something - that 10 amp fuse blew! (just bought 80 of them from Amazon for $5.99!) I have heard people say it may be the neutral safety switch - also called neutral starting switch or safety interlock switch - which is on the top of the transmission (can't find that anywhere in my manuals or anywhere online). I have also heard it may be the forward/Reverse/Neutral solenoids. Any help would be appreciated. If you have any pics showing me where that neutral safety switch is that would be great. Also - they say it is on top of the transmission. Do they mean top of the reverser? Thanks guys for any help you can provide.
Welcome to HEF Steve . The neutral switch is in FNR switch (S11) at the steering column. See that portion of the electrical schematic in screenshot below. Highly recommend you dig into a 310D Operation and Test manual TM1496 . FYI, there is a currently a free copy of the manual at the Internet Archive site. https://archive.org/details/310DTM1496 .
I will bring my testing equipment and check out the FNR switch. But I think there is another Neutral safety switch/neutral starting switch/safety interlock switch that looks like this. and supposedly is on top of the transmission or reverser.
A Deere 310C has a neutral switch like that, not a 310D .
Thanks Dave! I live on Long Island but the machine is on my property in PA. I will get into the FNR switch when I get up there after Easter.
Next time you make a thread about your backhoe you should put put it in the tractor loader backhoe forum.
Thanks Dave - Looks like the mods moved it for me. Heading up there next week for more diagnostic work.
I returned back to my backhoe with all my printed out manual pages and my diagnostic equipment plus a bag full of 10 amp fuses. First clarification. The fuse that is popping in the inline fuse holder is the FNR/Park fuse. The original location looks like it was cooked (see pic) so I guess they plugged in this inline fuse holder. Replaced new fuse engine cranked and started pressed neutral clutch switch on bucket handle - fuse still good Put in forward gear - fuse still good but did not go into gear put in neutral - fuse still good put in reverse -fuse still good - did not go into gear shut engine off - fuse still good crank and started engine - fuse still good Put parking brake on - fuse still good took parking brake off - FUSE POPPED replaced fuse started engine Parking brake still off but light on switch is on Put in forward - fuse good but not going into gear put in reverse - fuse good but not going into gear make sure gear shifter is in first gear Parking brake put on - fuse did not pop Took parking brake off - fuse did not pop - light is off put parking brake on - fuse still good - light goes on took parking brake off - fuse still good - light goes off put in forward - GOES INTO GEAR! At this point I just get the machine back to where I keep it - but then go through all different scenarios trying to recreate what went wrong. It always goes into gear and the fuse does not pop. The parking brake switch light sometimes goes off and on when it shouldn't be. I make sure the parking brake is not engaged as the previous owner told me he drove with it engaged and broke it and said it was not a fun repair. Maybe something is going on with that? that's the fuse that was popping. OR .... I did take it out of first gear and shoved it back in. When I was driving it when it initially failed - it was very rough road and machine was definitely jostled where maybe it knocked it out of first gear and into neutral? I had definitely messed with the gear selector the day it failed. That is a very sloppy linkage. Question is - why would it pop that fuse if this was the problem? I am thrilled that it is now working - but I would like to know what had gone wrong. what do you guys think it was? I appreciate the help so far and any you guys can give me now. Thanks!
The way that fuse block is smoked looks like previous owner put in higher amp fuse when he was dealing with the problem, may have (probably did) cook 1 or more wires in the harness that may be shorting to ground or each other when engaged, all it takes a little wiggle or movement. My first move would be to access and inspect that harness for more crispy parts.
If the fuse blew when releasing the park brake, check the wiring around the park brake release solenoid Y4 for an intermittent short to ground. . Re: the park brake switch light, the ground for the light is controlled by the park brake sensing switch B2. Check the wiring around the switch B2 for an intermittent short to ground.I also suspect there are issues with the monitor or its harness. If the park brake switch light comes on when the FNR switch is not in neutral the monitor “STOP“ lamp and warning buzzer should be active. . As stinky64 suggests , inspect the wiring harness . I’m sure you will find it in poor condition.
Thanks guys. I will start checking the wiring.