I've had a couple of the flat face o ring hydraulic fittings fail on my skid steer. The first time it was something easy to get to under the cab. This time is was one of the hoses connecting the 2 speed gear box behind the sprocket. I had to pull the track and fight like crazy to replace this one. How do these fail, assuming the fitting is tight there is no movement between the two pieces. It just baffles me, mainly I'm venting because this last one was a huge PITA to repair. I can't imagine taking that to a shop, 600-800 bucks in labor for a dollar O ring?
Was the O-ring cut, or eroded? If it was cut, it was an assembly error at some point. If it was eroded, then there is a misalignment issue with the tubes to the fitting.
It wasn't cut I only found a small imperfection on it. Eroded may be a good term for it. Those lines are clamped wicked tight if the clamps are holding it out of alignment they're going to be that way forever. Maybe I will get another 3000k hours before it fails again. I guess mainly I was venting but curious how they fail, just don't seem like they should once they are tightened up good.
Well my O-ring started leaking again. It had about 30 hours on it before it started. When I take the nut loose it threads right back on so I really feel like the clamp alignment is pretty good. I'm looking at the O ring installed with a mirror so I feel very confident it's starting out in the groove. What can I do different this thing is a major pain to replace. I let the machine run for 20 minutes (last time) and last night , is there anyway to "know" it is all correct before I put it back together, I can't hardly believe it last 30 hours and then just failed hard. Sorry this is in the wrong forum, I forgot to put in the CTL section.
Where are you getting your o-rings from? Maybe your o-ring is too soft. I used to have a kit specially for ORF fittings
It's a kit from John Deere, supposed to be all the sizes they use. It has John Deere part numbers on each size.
That looks like it has an alignment issue. You might have to loosen all the tube clamps, install the new O-ring, tighten the fitting, then tighten the tube clamps.
I have to loosen the tube clamps to actually get the O ring in, it's held so tightly I can't flex it out of the way. I loosen the clamps, replace the ring, tighten the fitting and install the clamps. I didn't have a set of crowfoot wrenches the first time, maybe it wasn't tight enough? I guess there is nothing to do at this point but try it out? Is it possible the fitting with the O ring slot is bad? I'm looking at it with a mirror but nothing jumps out at me. Edit: Are you saying find more tube clamps further from the finial drive? Where it comes thru the frame there is some flexible hose so I assumed no clamps inside the machine would matter.
Does the part number of the "O" ring in the kit match the part number in the skid steer parts book ? If they don't, I would suggest that you get the specific "O" ring(s) listed in the parts book.
Just be sure the o rings are specifically for flat face, (ORFS) and 90 duro
I've never seen ORFS spec 90 duro o-rings, ORB spec's 90 duro, but every ORFS I've ever seen has been 70 duro. If you keep having a failure of a ORFS joint after fitting a proper ORFS o-ring then I strongly suggest you either have a flaw with the adapter fitting or the connection hose fitting. Once an ORFS fitting is fitted and secured, whether it's 50 lb/ft torque or 500 lb/ft torque, it's fitted. If you continue to have a problem it's not the o-ring, it's the fittings.
This is what we use. . . https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=175_257&products_id=9331 These are 90 durometer. I do agree tho that the OP's issue is not likely to be the oring.
90 duro is fine, I have no issue with that, only saying that 90 duro is really not necessary in an ORFS connection. That's why I say if a said connection is a recurring problem the it has to be the connecting fittings and not the choice of proper ORFS o-ring.
Good suggestions, I confirmed the part numbers match. I'm sure it's the correct o ring. I'm going to send it again, if fails again I will replace the fitting and hose on either side. One good thing out of this mess I found an amazingly easy way to compress the track.