Hello all. Long time reader, never needed to post. I'm the new owner of John Deere 55EB. It's in great shape. It's got the inline 6, 217 engine. With a 2 row corn head and the 12 or 13' bean head as well. Both look to be easily restorable... yeah right. Approaching the machine the guy selling it told a story. "Dad used it until it was parked in the barn for 10 years, could be 20. Then 2 years ago, could be 5, we dragged it outside to make room in the barn. We dragged it because we couldn't get it running." I asked, did anyone ever try to get it going? "Not that I remember" he said So I went to work. 12 volt system negative ground. That's easy. I added a 945cca deep cycle. I checked the oil, and replaced the fuel pump. I cleaned the carburetor, and primed the fuel to the carb from an small gas tank i brought with me. And it cranked. I thought this was going to be a fruitful day. But a week later and I still don't have spark... I've replaced the coil, the cap and rotor, the wires, I gapped the points after I replaced them. I did not gap the condenser. But I did replace it and test the new one with my multi meter. Voltage rose when I looked for resistance and discharged slowly when I switched to voltage. With that I figured the ignition system was good. Because I replaced everything besides the plugs. But still no spark... So, I stared looking into the ignition key switch system and here's where I'm getting stuck. The machine came with original manuals. Great condition too. The starting procedure calls for the use of a starter button. The key is only to be used to turn on accessories, if my understanding is correct... But the starter button was used to crank the engine. This makes sense because I can't find a starter relay anywhere on the machine. And i can't imagine an ignition key that can handle the high current necessary for the starter circuit. But here's the thing, if you turn the key far enough the machine cranks. Not sure it came that way? Not sure if it was retro fitted? I only know that if I turn this key the engine will spin in the right direction. And also that the starter button is broken. Is this why Dad parked the machine? I don't know. But the button shows open in each position and closed in each position, regardless of the operation of the button. It needs to be replaced. This left me with questions Was the key replaced?... it looks original Why does the machine crank with the key if Im supposed to use the button? What happens if the kids were trying to move the machine but didn't know they were supposed to use the button to start it? If the kids kept trying to use the key to start it what component would fail? Not having answers to those questions lead me here. But I wasn't done. I thought to myself, I said, "self, you don't need the key to turn on the accessories. You can just run 12volts to that coil and then crank the engine by whatever means available. That should make this old deere fire smoke. So I ran 12 hot volts to direct to the coil. But no dice. I've been losing sleep. Losing friends. The Napa guy quit answering my calls. Im Pulling out the few hairs i have left and still I'm out of ideas. So please help! Pease ask questions. I'll run around and take some pictures today. I may throw new plugs at it just to say I did it Also it's worth mentioning the points already looked brand new when I went to change them. As did the condenser. The dizzy cap was the wrong model and I don't think it was contacting the rotor. But the owner said everything is original and it all worked when it was parked 10 years ago... could be 20.
I don't know what would be original on your 55 because I have not worked on one. The best way to find that out would be to study the parts and service manual. Maybe I can help you with you ignition system though. If you have not, put on good quality points, condenser, rotor and cap. NAPA brand is good, they should be able to get them for you if you give them the make and model of the distributor. Make sure the plug wires are good. Probably a good idea to replace the plugs also. Make sure you are getting 12v to the coil on the + side. Then take a test light and put it on the - side of the coil while you crank the engine. If the test light flashes while you are cranking it is working right. If the resistance of the coil is 1.5 -3 ohms you don't need a resister on it, you can put 12v straight to the coil. Check that and let me know what you find and I can tell you more.
Thanks for getting back to me. My spark checker goes between the plug and the plug wire boot. So I haven't checked power out of the coil directly yet. I only know it's not getting to the plugs. I've already replaced everything. Plug wires, cap, rotor, condenser, and points. Using the code on the dizzy, at napa. Plugs look brand new (like everything else did) good idea about checking the power out of the coil. I'll go back out and bring a test light. I've heard something about a resistor in the hot wire to the coil. And you seem to know about that. Could you fill me in?
Put a plug on 1 of the wires and lay it in the bare block, then crank and see if it sparks. Maybe wires are not on the cap in the right order.
The resistance on each leg of the coil was 8.66
Are you sure the distributor is turning?
I have watched the dizzy spin and the points do open and close. That's how I know it's spinning "the right way". As long as the dizzy should spin counter clockwise. And according to the book that's correct.
Using a spark checker or hooking a plug up and putting it against the block only works if the plug is good. I don't like to do it that way because if the plug is bad you'll go crazy trying to figure it out. Better to use a spark checker that hooks to a plug wire and grounds to the block. Resistance of 8.66 ohms sounds to high to me. Did you check between the + and - terminals on the coil with no wires hooked up? It should be 3 ohms for a 4 cylinder engine and 1.5 for 6-8 cylinder engines so if you are in between those you should be ok with the coil. Too high a resistance and it won't work very well and to low of resistance and it will burn points quicker. I don't like to use a resister because it is just one more thing to go wrong so I get a coil with the right resistance. At this point you are just trying to get spark so use a jumper wire to get 12v to the coil and don't worry about if it has a resister until you get it running good. Once you know you are getting good spark, if it still won't try to start then you can check the timing and see if the plug wires are hooked to the right spots.
I don't see any reason to replace the plugs. They all look new. The electrode ceramic is pure white. Amd for wheat you fear to be true all of the plugs would need to be bad. I'll get back when I've checked power coming out of the coil. Thanks for all the help.
You got a picture of the beast? I like old combines. Mine has never in its life ever had engine issues.
Have you done the test light check yet? I always start there. The next test is using jumper clips feed 12v + to the positive side of the coil and quickly ground it then disconnect it to see it make spark. If it doesn't at that point you need a coil, possibly other parts of the system as well but that's a starting point
I'll check power coming out of the coil today.
The old coil Ahmed out within spec. But I replaced it anyhow. The current coil is new and tests okay.
Ohmed* out okay
Do you have spark now?
I spent the day replacing the points and the cap. But by the time I got that done I had a dead battery. I'll be back tomorrow
Have you tried the test light on the - terminal of the coil to see if it flashes while cranking? The points are a switch and if they are not switching the coil on and off it will never spark. The plug fires when the points open.
I got the right cap and gaped the points and it started right up. Thanks for all the help. Now I need to get it to idle down. Fix some coolant leaks. Make sure i got breaks, and drive it home. Yeehaw.
Wow, that is a clean, straight machine! Nice find!
Thanks. It runs really well too. No better than most. Doesn't like starting cold. But who does? I'm not getting any younger either. I like it because I can look at it and tell what's broken. It came with a good manual so it's easy to use. And I'm only planting 50 acres. It'll be fun. Thanks for the help getting her going
The tires don't look all weather checked either. My former neighbor had 3 old JD combines but they went for scrap. I think they were 45 and 55 models. There is another 55 a few miles away that has been sitting just off the road for who knows how long. It looks in decent shape though. I think they are popular with collectors.
The tires look okay. We made it the 8 miles to my farm okay. lll plan to use it. Mom called in 19 and said she planned to sell the farm. 100 acres in Southern MN on the north edge of an expanding community. She's 73. I had been out west for 20 years. But I decided to move back to Southern Minnesota and develope a plan to save it. It had been industrial farmed for the past 20 years. First I cut out 8 acres to build a Mt bike Park to support the bike shop i opened after attending a school called UBI (THE BEST school in the USA if you want to run a bike shop) The bike shop is doing great. The New Prague area Mt bike Park Association is in charge of constructing and maintaining of the park. And my shop is busy. It appears to be working! But I've still got about 50 acres that I've been leasing to a mega farmer. Also, mom never sold the old Ford 8n jubilee, or the old John Deere B and also seed/fertilizer spreader. Both of the tractors were restored and run well. But if i plan to till the I'll still need to find a small 2 bottom plow for the B, and a small cultivator. The 55 came with a bean head, a planter, and a G wagon. Not sure what I'll plant yet. After cleaning it up a bit I threw the big leaver and everything appears to work.
An 8N and a Jubilee are 2 different tractors. Do you have pics. of the Mt. bike park? It must be hilly terrain.