Hi, hopefully, someone else had a similar experience and can give me some guidance. I have a 1993 644G loader with about 9300hrs, The Unit works fine under light load for a longer period. Once the unit starts working and the transmission oil indicator gets to about 1/2 or a little above the warm markings the park brake light comes on and locks the machine. Once the transmission oil cools, I can use it again until the oil warms up. I'll list what I've tried below. - Change Transmission oil and filter - Change the Oil Cooler Filter - Clean the oil cooler with low-pressure water - removed the thermostat from the bypass valve
Welcome to HEF hillside . I assume the park brake comes on with no warning at all... that can’t be good ! The 644G park brake system pressure is produced by the pilot/brake pump which is supplied with hydraulic system oil not transmission oil. From your problem description it sounds like the park brake solenoid electrical coil is failing when it gets hot. There are 2 (possibly 3) identical solenoid valves on the pressure reducing valve assembly. Swap the park brake coil with the boom down coil and see if the park brake works without issues. See screenshot below. .
thanks, I'll try this later and give update
I'd rather see an issue in the electrical system. Mechanically, hydraulically there is no reason for such a phenomenon. Check wires, plugs of park brake system, transmission connectors for dirt, dust, humidity.
Hi, I swapped the solenoids and the loader worked longer and the transmission temp went to 1/2 way, more than ever before. unfortunately, the parking brake still came on. After this, I just unplugged the parking brake solenoid and the machine worked for almost 2 hours nonstop with the temp staying in the middle and never got hot. I did notice the manifold did get extremely hot. I plan to buy a new solenoid and see if that helps, if not is it safe to use with the parking brake disconnected? I mainly work on flat ground and boom down when parked.
The transmission controller unit shouldn’t allow the transmission to go into gear without a signal from the park brake pressure switch. Did you bypass the pressure switch as well ? NO ONE here is going to tell you it is safe to put the loader to work with a disabled park brake.
no, the only thing I disconnected was the 2-wire electrical plug for the parking brake solenoid.
Hey guys I’m pretty new to this 644 loader and am having a hell of a time finding this pressure reduction valve. Where is it located?
@Mauzer1999 , The pressure reducing manifold assembly is behind the right hand side rear plastic shield below the cab. I can’t find a picture of it , but it‘s an aluminum block approx 6“x4”x2” thick with 2-3 solenoid valves.
Ok, thank you
This worked for a while with the parking switch disconnected, but now I'm having an issue where the machine is not moving at all, Initially, I thought it was the FNR switch (replaced), but that didn't fix it. The next morning the machine worked perfectly for about 1hr then it stopped going into gear (transmission stop engaging), after shutting the machine off it would work for a short time and then stop. I think this issue is returning from the original problem with the parking brake light coming on. I'm not sure which test to run first to give me the best idea where the problem might be.
hillside, check your messages.
thanks, I test and give an update when I get a chance
Have you found anything yet. My machine is doing the same thing.
Nothing yet, mine actually got worse, now it’s going into neutral every 10-20mins. Someone send me a pdf suggesting that the brake wiring might be at fault. I attached it. If you solve your issue please share
Talked with a JD tech yesterday. He thought it might be transmission charge pump.
did you fix it?
Have you found your problem yet?
Still not fixed. My tech guy said it’s the TCU, he’s doing a TCU bypass that should be completed soon. I’ll update once I get it fixed
What is the tcu
The transmission control unit. **FIXED-ish** My technician was able to bypass the TCU using relays and diodes; it has been working without any known issues for the past few weeks. Since he was able to get it working without the TCU, I think I'll get a replacement TCU to fix it properly.
Try rebuilding the park brake pump. Had a similar problem. Chased down all the pressures and solenoids for a half a year till I took apart that pump.