I'm hoping someone has seen this before. We've spent quite a bit of money with two mechanics and still haven't solved it. 2013 John Deere 350G Pre-DEF machine Approx. 4,200 hours Farm-use machine only Maintenance kept current No active fault codes Brief History Issue #1 (@ Approx. 3,200 Hours) Machine would randomly lose travel speed while in rabbit mode and eventually stay in slower mode. A large equipment company (Dobs in central FL) diagnosed: Both main pumps & failed Quoted nearly $189,000 in repairs. We brought the machine home and replaced: Both main pumps & Pilot pump (refurbished) for 15k Problem remained exactly the same. A local mechanic later determined the issue was the dual solenoid valve assembly located to the right of the pumps. Replacing that assembly fixed the travel-speed problem and machine ran faster overall. *Note: Ever since then, the machine seems to work best when two functions are operated simultaneously. With only one function activated, it feels slightly slower. We were told this could be a priority valve issue, but it never affected our ability to work. At that time we also: Flushed the hydraulic system Changed all fluids and filters Performed extensive maintenance on all that could be done which was our initial process of elimination Issue #2 (Approx. 4 Months Ago) Machine began: Losing power under load Shutting down occasionally Displaying fuel restriction/common rail pressure codes Found: Clogged fuel filters Algae contamination in fuel tank Repairs performed: Cleaned fuel tank Treated fuel system Replaced filters Machine then ran perfectly. Current Problem About 4 weeks ago while digging a watering hole, The machine began losing: Engine RPM Hydraulic speed Hydraulic power The symptoms felt very similar to the previous fuel restriction problem, except there are no codes this time. We performed a complete service even though it wasn't fully due: Engine filter, Hydraulic filters (including major hydraulic filter), Full maintenance items, final drives etc etc No change. Current Symptoms Machine starts and runs perfectly cold for the first 5–8 minutes: Engine holds approximately 1,800 RPM Hydraulics are strong and fast No abnormalities Then during operation: RPM drops to approximately 1,300–1,400 RPM Hydraulic speed slows simultenously Hydraulic power decreases at the exact same time Hydraulics make a "woe, woe, woe" sound as its loosing power If I release the controls: Engine immediately returns to full RPM Machine sounds normal again and seems ready to work When I resume work: Sometimes it immediately bogs again Sometimes it works normally for a few more minutes and repeats The problem occurs with all functions: Boom Arm Bucket curl Travel Any hydraulic function I've tried running only one function from a cold start and the problem still occurs same exact way Recent Repairs / Troubleshooting Exhaust System Work A mechanic noted the yellow exhaust regeneration/cleaning light was on. Attempts included: Deleted the machine; Reprogramming/deleting the system Machine then still showed high temp light Returned machine to stock programming, disconnected sensor, further remapping Current status: No exhaust-related warnings, no lights no derate, no codes However Problem remains unchanged Hydraulic Leak Repair Repacked a boom cylinder that was leaking heavily just in case. No change. Hydraulic Pressure Testing Results Pilot Pressure Tested at quick-connect near small hydraulic filter. Results: Cold: 600 PSI Hot: 600 PSI Idle: 600 PSI Full throttle: 600 PSI Deadhead: 600 PSI During power loss: 600 PSI Pilot pressure appears stable at all times. Hydraulic Oil Pressure Ports Checked both test ports. Results: Cold & Hot ~55 PSI & 40 Idle ~85 PSI & 65 full throttle Main Pump Pressure Both pumps produced nearly identical readings. Results: Idle: 0 PSI Working: ~3,000 PSI Deadhead/full load: ~4,500 PSI If hot ground hard jum to 5000 During power loss: Pressure falls to roughly 1,500 PSI Gauge needle vibrates rapidly Under load during power-loss event, pressure rises only to around 2,000–2,500 PSI and still vibrates Solenoid / Control Valve Work Since the previous dual-solenoid assembly had caused a major slow down issue years ago (althought different than this), I replaced it with a known good used unit. Result: No change While removing the lower hose: Hydraulic oil came out Followed by a significant amount of pressurized air for about 60 seconds I traced that circuit to a four-solenoid assembly on the main valve bank. Actions taken: Removed and cleaned solenoids Replaced assembly with another unit Result: No change for both Air in Hydraulic Circuit One thing that concerns me, the same hose continues to discharge air. With machine running: Lots of air came out initially Then oil mixed with bubbles Depending on cylinder position: Boom fully raised = mostly air 75% closed to all the way fluid We allowed it to bleed for approximately 6–9 minutes while cycling functions. Result: Air never completely stopped Symptoms remained unchanged Questions Has anyone seen a 350G lose engine RPM and hydraulic power simultaneously like this? Do all my numbers seem normal? What would cause both main pump pressures to drop and fluctuate at the same time? Is the air we are finding in that hydraulic circuit normal, or is it a clue? Could this be related to: Pump regulators? Horsepower control system? Priority valve issues? Suction restriction/aeration? Electronic derate without fault codes? Any ideas or tests to perform would be greatly appreciated. At this point we've checked a lot of the usual items and are trying to avoid simply throwing more expensive parts at it. This is a farm unit and we are running tight on $$ to throw at it. I recently invested in replacing hydraulic thump with new cylinder and thumb and just bought a rake for it... I need it back to work Thanks in advance. I have pictures and videos i can upload if needed
When you changed the hydraulic filter, did you cut it open and cut out a section of the paper and squeeze in a clean vice to see if anything abnnormal in the filter. If the unit has a crank speed sensor and camshaft position sensor, have you tried running it with one disconnected. Reason I ask is I watched a video with a vehicle with no power and zero codes and when the crank sensor got disconnected it came to full power. Some things will not talk to computer and no codes come because of it. Not saying it is your problem, just a 2 minute test for each if it has both. Also seen a vehicle with too much AC ripple voltage coming to batteries and nothing would run correctly. Lastly personally fixed a Dodge Ram 3500 with no power by replacing all the battery positive cables and negative cables because there was green in all the connections going into the cables. Took me 8 hours to build and replace as dealer said no longer available, and put in some good size cables with good Solid Copper ends. Owner said it had not run like that since new. Injectors and computers will not run correctly with poor power path and poor ground path from cab to battery, and engine block to battery, and computer to battery. May not be your problem but cheap to test and rule out. Simon C
Also seen a Detroit DD15 that died in a big hill in full power and tow job, about 6 times. They were going to put new Mega dollar computer in it. I told the shop foreman to prove if there was totally clean power to computer and back to battery ground. This thing was at the auction because of this same problem. Solution was a loose 10 amp ATO fuse feeding computer that 1 pin was a little loose. It kept coming up as Communication Error, which it was cause as soon as computer drops out for lack of electric power, engine dies instantly. Just mentioned these things cause if they haven't been tested they need to be ruled out. Been quite a few Skid Steers on this site that had ECM communication error, that the problem was a blown fuse or faulty relay feeding power to computer. You have a lot to test. Simon C
This should posted as a sticky for others to read and follow when they have a question. Excellent write up!! One of the smart folk has already replied and others will also. What did you use to treat the algae in your fuel tank?
If I am working on any power problem, I always start at the battery box to test under load with 2 Fluke 87 meters hooked up at the same time recording voltage loss on the cables ( Battery Positive to Starter & Battery Negative to Engine Block , along with Frame and Cab ground to Battery Negative ) .. I also always test the Alternator cable for loss and also for AC ripple voltage as I have found a few to date that were on their way out. Forgot to mention above that I recall reading on a skid steer with computer communication problem that in the end the gentleman changed the alternator that was charging enough to start but computers were not happy. Think it was possibly an AC ripple voltage excess. Simon C
What Simon C^^^^ said. Did you use the Service Menu to view? Or were you waiting to see a DTC light?