I have a John Deere TLB 110 backhoe that I bought a few years ago...looks like it was used around a lot of salt due to the rusting. With that said, the forward and reverse travel pedals are sticking really bad. It is to the point that I can to pull the levers back up back my foot or hand to stop the machine. I have sprayed the underside with PB Blaster and that has helped some but still problems sticking. Anyone had any issues like this and how did you fix it. I really don't want to have to take it to the dealership for repair or replacement; however, my book shows that because it is sensor controlled, I need to consult the dealer. The machine has no issues with moving backward or forward....just potentiometer sticking badly.
You can remove the pedal assembly without worrying about the sensors. There is some more linkage under there behind the plastic shield the surrounds the pedals (underneath the floorboard) that you can't see and that linkage is what is seized up. You will have to remove the floor mat to get to the bolts that hold the pedal assembly in place. The plastic shield has to be removed (and that is a bugger to remove) to access the sensor plug to unplug it. If you can get the shield off you might be able to soak it down with the PB to see if it starts to free up. My experience has been it is better to remove it and disassemble it to clean it thoroughly, then never-seize it when reassembling. If you go that route pay attention to the arrangement of the linkage.
PM sent. Look at page 405 for the pedal assembly.
That sounds great! Now, you mention that I can remove the pedal assembly without removing the sensors...now once I remove the mat, plastic cover and pedal assembly, can I remove the linkages, clean, and reassemble without upsetting the sensors?
Appreciate the info....I am hoping I can remove the linkages without removing the sensors.
If you ever need to adjust the POTS on the pedals I made a breakout harness to use in place of the JDG1575 Test Kit from JD. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing/409098-built-ehydro-breakout-harness.html Make sure you never put a fuse in the #12 or trans calibration spot or you will regret it. I have not done it myself but read horror stories of people trying to get their tractor to move again afterwards. The calibration CAN be done without any special tools or going to the dealer but it seems it's hard to follow the service manual procedure or something.
Yes
Thanks so much for that great information. I am going to look for those parts to order and build my own before I even try to disassemble the pedals for cleaning. If I am successful in building one, I will then test and capture the data just in case I screw up and get get the POTs out of calibration. Again thx! Will let you know how it goes!
That's great to hear! thx...gonna try it as well as try to build the harness NH575E suggest in his reply.
The voltage values I quoted in the thread I linked were for my 4310 eHydro. Refer to the manual for correct values for your 110.
Ok, thx
Your voltage specs are serial number dependent.
ok, thx much
I'm about to order the parts you listed to make my one harness. Looking forward to being able to test my own. thx again.