I bought a d20-6 the dozer would work fine in reverse on both tracks, but going forward left steering clutch would operate the dozer as you wanted but the right steering clutch you could pull lever the lever all the way back and would barely turn machine. I took off the floor plate and adjusted steering linkage that made things worse so adjusted back as close as possiable the. Found out the brake ajustments on the back of dozer. Adjusted the right side it will turn that way now but when under a load it will slip and grind on the right side and whine. Any suggestion could I be out of ajustement on the linkage and forks on top?
Check your steer clutches for slippage first. Put the dozer blade on something that wont give ( a big tree?) put it in 1st forward, let out on the clutch and see if both tracks are rolling at the same speed (it may kill the engine) if they are turning at the same rate they should be good. You can pull on each individual steering lever to see if it releases that particular track. I'm not sure if your machine is the wet or dry housing, so I would pull the drain plug on each side and make sure they aren't full of water.
Did you figure this out? There a a couple things it could be.. Be sure the steering valve spool is not partially engaged.. The linkage shouldn't be pushing on the spool but just in contact with it... Get back to us with more info or if fixed and am sure you'll get it..
I am having the same issue left track will not turn at all they have been stuck before but always broke loose and worked. have all the bolts out of the steering clutch but can not spread the flanges apart far enough to remove any suggestions
Welcome Deer Hunter.. Sometimes if you use a chisel and hammer between the inner flage (bevel gear side) and the inner drum that will force the inner drum far enough into the outer brake drum to be able to clear the lips on the flanges. When doing this BE CAREFUL because your creating a lot of stored energy and the chisel wedge can fly right back at ya. I had one go partially into my over head door insulation... Also by doing this you may break the flange also... Sometimes it's better to just cut the outer brake drum off and save yourself some time and safety.. I've got all the parts you may need so contact me anytime.
What do you cut the drum with ? cutting wheel and how much are they?
Small cutting wheel, or drill a series of holes across drum and then break apart with chisel. I just paid 420.00 +tax and freight for one.
Ditto what Tantoy said about cutting wheel and or drill holes.. Sure wish you would have contacted me Tantoy--> Keep me in mind IF you ever need any other parts. I would have beat that price for ya..
Deer Hunter I think I got your email question through my website but didn't see a email address for ya.. I do have your phone number and will call or text whenever you want... Let me know time and I'll get a hold of ya.. Darin
Thanks Darin, Will check with you in future.
Thanks for all the info but I have found another issue the fork that engages or disengages the clutch is not moving at all. I have read you should be able to move by hand, will not move at all thinkining this may be my trouble
so you have the cover off, and trying to move fork by hand? If so it is hard to compress clutch springs, but if you use a pry bar against bevel gear case you shroud be able to move fork and disengage clutch.
Mine were kinda stiff so spray wd40 or equiv. on fork where 3 fingers pass thru bevel gear flange, keeping lube off clutches of course.
Thanks for your help got the clutch, drum and brake band installed and the adjuster nuts loose works good now