Recently bought a 1987 D37E w/4400 hrs. It's a one owner machine & runs/operates sweet. Undercarriage is 80%. Pulled all the covers & lubed, checked everything. The only issue is the right hand steer. Both levers (left & right) travel the same length. It steers well to the left, but is hard to steer right. In reverse, it hardly steers right at all, stalling the engine.Seems to get worse the more it's worked. Is this an adjustment problem, or worn parts that need replacing??
It's been awhile but I believe the adjustment for the brake can be gotten to from the back of the machine. Should be a three bolt cover on each side below the fuel tank. Take the cover off for the side you want to adjust and you will see a bolt head sticking up. Turn that clockwise to tighten the brake or counter clockwise to loosen. The statement that both levers were the same indicates you may need new lining on the band. That's a big project if you haven't done it before. Good Luck!
I have removed the back cover and the two (2 bolt) covers that lead to the steer adjustment bolts. I have adjusted them without noticeable results. What do you read into the fact that she steers right intermittantly?
I have a D37 also and the rear drive sprokets have D31 cast into them, they seem to pop a lot like they are sliping on the tracks, Can you look and see if yours have any numbers cast into them ? I think they might be the wrong size. This was all new when I got the dozer. Thanks Jay
Well if you have eliminated the brake adjustment as a problem then it sounds like something hydraulic. Did you check the linkages that work the steering valve. You should be able to see the linkages under the seat. As I recall the clevises and pins can get worn out and not fully stroke the control valves. If all that stuff is OK you are probably going to have to open the right side up and look. As I recall there is a cylinder inside that pushes on a throw out bearing to release the clutch. It is also possible there is not lining left on the brake band. Let us know what you find.
If its trying to stall the engine it sounds like the brake is applying but the clutch hasn't released. Cheers RDG
I have a 1987 D37-P2 thats does the same thing. Only not all the time. Funny thing with mine is , in reverse on a slight incline, it steers perfectly. So if the clutch hasn't released, what is the fix for that ?
It does sound like a clutch release problem. You will have to make sure the linkages are working properly. If they are then you will have to go into the offending clutch compartment.
John, thanks, good advice. Hired an experienced Komatsu mechanic. We replaced the left side steer clutch discs (the plates were heat discolored, but otherwise OK). We also had (wet clutches) water contamined oil. Based on that discovery, we drained the other side as well. Filled up both with 15w40, adjusted levers & took off. Steers like new.
d38e-1 What do you think? My d38e-1 has a track popping issue also. Usually happens when I turn in soft soil. And only one side does it. If the track is tighter, it helps. Machine has 4500 hrs on the undercarage.
Touble steering on a slope D38E-1 When I turn on a slope, say to the right; the machine will free wheel to the left for an instant. Then as I pull the handle harder, it will stop free wheeling and turn nicely to the right. But only on a slope and the steeper it is, the worse it is. I'm wondering if this is an adjustment issue or a ware problem, or both. Have any thoughts?:Banghead
J Olender, Track popping is usually caused by worn out track bushings and sprockets or a broken recoil spring. Photos would be helpful in determining your problem. The steering issue you describe is normal for a clutch type steering system. The old timers used the phenomena all the time when working slopes. It's not a problem.
...or a brand new one. I bought a new D4G in 2003 and unloaded and started working in sandy soil and when I turned it sounded like a shotgun went off. The sand was loading the rails full of dirt and tightening them so tight that they had to unload somehow. The only solution I found was to run them way loose. Sounded like it was gonna break something before I did it. Of course the Cat salesman said he'd never heard of that happening before.
Cross steering is what we called it, really noticeable when you have something like a loaded scoop/ pan / towed scraper call it what ever hooked on behind and pushing you down the hill. Once you get the feel of it, it can be used to your advantage as you can make turns without wearing out your brakes and with most older machines having dry steering systems that required frequent brake adjustments and relining it was a way of minimizing brake wear. Cheers RDG
As for sand packing in the tracks we used to always slacken off the tracks when working in sand as the sand packs in between the root of the sprocket and the bush, can and will break the recoil spring and have even seen a TD 6 years ago break a track chain from sand in the tracks. Have seen cut away sprockets where the root of the sprocket was narrow in the bottom to allow the material to squeeze out rather than pack in there. The best way is run tracks looser, avoid pivot turns in loose material and if they do go tight travel in Rev for a bit to let the material fall out of the chains as it goes along on the top run of the track so the chains are clean by the time they get to the sprocket.
Another D38 Question Over heating transmission. 4500 hrs on machine. I've owned it for 3 years, and it has always run hotter than I would like. It finally fried the rear main seal in the motor. Letting in hydraulic fluid. Torque converter has been re-sealed, new fluid, filters and screens. Engine radiator has been rodded out, there is no evidence of damaged hydraulic lines. Is this a design flaw? Or maybe I need to install a auxillery cooler? I'm stumped.
Another D38 Question Over heating transmission. 4500 hrs on machine. I've owned it for 3 years, and it has always run hotter than I would like. It finally fried the rear main seal in the motor. Letting in hydraulic fluid. Torque converter has been re-sealed, new fluid, filters and screens. Engine radiator has been rodded out, there is no evidence of damaged hydraulic lines. Is this a design flaw? Or maybe I need to install a auxillery cooler? I'm stumped.
Two things to check. I believe there is a transmission cooler down on one side of the engine. I'm also thinking your machine has a torque converter. Did anyone pop it apart and check the clearances?
There's no cooler that I've found. And I've had this thing all apart! Yes, it has a torque con. which was re-sealed due to overheating. All hard parts in con. were within spec. It also looks like the previous owner had to get into the con. at one time or another. Thanks!
If its got a T/C it should have a cooler/heat exchanger somewhere in the system.
over heating Hydraulic lines do run from the T/C to the engine radiator. They go in at the bottom, and come right back out. doesn't seem like much cooling can happen. I've also cleaned any sludge out of the bottom of the radiator. Didn't help.
You have the the radiator type cooler. If you look at the radiator front he front you will see there is a section I believe on the left that is just for transmission oil. Make sure the fins are clean. I use an infrared thermometer to check both the inlet and outlet for differences in temperature. You should see at least 15 degrees difference and a properly working system will have about 30 degrees of difference. Good Luck!
over heating That's very helpful! I also used an inferred heat gun to check temps. When the gage is at 2/3 the T/C is at about 170 degree. Here's the bad news, the trany is pushing 200 degrees. The T/C should be the hottest point in the system yes? Slipping clutches?
Had the same problem on our D37E-1. The steering brake is mounted at the bottom on a ball joint. The connection/joint is broken. When you back up the brake band spins and sets the brake, killing the engine. Komatsu came along with an update in the 90's, so check with your dealer's service department for the ball joint update.