Doesn't sound too bad. Is it full of water, hope so . I made up a pipe system that I used to hold a good load of water and run about 1 hour to check for leaks. I never idle, and just gently rev up a couple hundred RPM in 1 second and back down. Back and forth on throttle the hole time. Have a video on my phone of it. How was your oil pressure, usually very high with cold oil. Simon C
Hi Simon. No water yet. Only ran for maybe 30 seconds or less. I want to make sure my nozzles are good and tight seating the copper gasket down in the precombustion chamber. If they are not tight you get leakage around the top of the threads. Not sure on oil pressure yet. I’ll see if I can hook up where pressure sensor is on regulator valve cover is. I’ll keep you posted.
Be very careful as a head can crack very fast with no coolant above the layer of steel above that piston. Hopefully you are okay. Hook up oil gauge to main oil gallery before next run just to be safe. Have seen a Deere 4045 with Zero Psi with 50 hours on it, and boss wanted me to by pass oil sender and I said no and hooked up a gauge and broken pump shaft in engine was cause. Not likely your situation, but I don't risk it. Simon C
Thanks Simon. I ran it for about just under a minute rev up and down. Oil pressure around 75 psi. No leaky nozzles now. Next will be getting ready to put engine back onto machine.
Lots of finagling to get it in but she’s in.
A couple days and she may be closer to going again. So many things to repair and install to put closure on it. Good photos. Simon C
By the skin of my teeth. Exhaust manifold, turbo and muffler came out as a unit. Very little room to get it back in. I kept on dropping the tin exhaust gaskets trying to get them in. Body getting sore trying to contort un-natural positions. It’s in though and I’m happy.
I have used some guide studs I made up to help hold manifold in place with gasket held on one side by stud, while I rotate the other side of gasket up into place and put a bolt in.
Thanks Simon. I thought about it but don’t have any metric studs or long bolts I could cut the head off of. I’m learning as we go hear and appreciate all the help.
More or less ready to drop the front end on. Maybe get her running tomorrow.
Started filling radiator. Heard a trickle and coolant was hitting the floor. It’s coming out the oil cooler. I may have forgotten to put a gasket in it not sure. I have pretty good access to it thankfully. Stay tuned.
Got it apart. Gaskets on both ends are there. Maybe it didn’t seat properly when I put it together not sure. There is a long bolt that pulls everything together that was pretty tight when I took it apart. I’ll need three arms or some help to put it back together without wrecking the gasket on the block.
I pulled the whole works off tonight and checked everything. Couldn’t find anything wrong with it. Put it back together carefully and snugged up the bolt that pulls it together. Mounted it back on machine and filled up coolant to find it leaking again out the other end cap. I’m getting quicker taking it apart . Only had to unbolt the one cap this time and repositioned it as I tightened it up. I then snugged up the bolts to the block. I got my bucket ready under the radiator and started filling her up……………..no leak. I’m at a loss as to why it was leaking. Maybe when I tightened the end caps onto bolts to the block it shifted the end cap enough to leak. I’m feeling happy now.
Maybe the seal was rolled a little and straightened out when you pulled it off. Been there, done that and scratching head. Simon C
Ran engine for 10-15 minutes 3/4 throttle. Took it outside and shut her down while I swept floor and looked for dropped bolts. Brought back in and need to reposition valve cover gasket that was leaking. Looks good so far.
Better to go up and down on the throttle, for first hour or more and start with light load and get to full temperature. Then increase the load by doing some light torque stalling in a higher gear if it is powershift. Not sure on that part. Simon C
I know @tctractors doesn't have much good to say about these engines, hopefully you can get out of it what you need to make it worth the effort.
Sounded real nice-good effort.
Thanks for this Simon. Took a couple tries to get the valve cover gasket to stop leaking so I want to wash motor off before putting belly pans; hood and bucket back on then put it to work for a few hours.
Shimmy. I never rebuilt a motor before so the experience has some value for me. Without the engine been rebuilt the machine would only be good for parts or scrap. The rest of the machine is still pretty tight so has some decent life left in it.
Thanks Truck Shop. I appreciate your input.
You've done well getting it back running. Make sure to post up some pics of it in the dirt.
Here you go Shimmy1. Best I could do is compost pile today.
Hey James, after searching the internet you have one of the few posts where I am able to find any info on a D57S-1. Would you mind sharing what Hydraulic, Trans and Engine oil you run in yours? I hope I don't ever have to face a rebuild like you did. Thanks
Benswain. You can use 30W, 15/40 or synthetic grades 0W/40, 5W/40. Depends on your climate. For Hydraulic I use Mobil trans 10W and transmission 30W.
Awesome thanks for the advice. Down here the 10w trans is about double the price of AW32 which is also 10w I believe. Do you think its worth the extra money for the 10w trans? Thanks!
I don’t think it’s a big deal. Are you topping off or changing the oil?
I am planning to change all the fluids. Its new to me and it sat about 10 years before I got it. I am just trying to gather any info I can. This is the only forum I have found with any info at all on them. Mine is SN 9679. I just rebuilt the two lift cylinders. The left brake takes a lot more force than the right so I might try to look into that. And then do a good service on it and go from there. If you have recommendations on things to check let me know!
Change the transmission filter, Replace the suction line hoses if worn out. Tighten up hose clamps on pipes to pumps. If there is a suction screen in the bottom of your torque, then clean it. DO NOT use varsol to clean any Komatsu orange O-Rings as they will swell and never fit again, and do not know of anyone including Komatsu that can supply. Done lots of torques on D155, and D85 and lots of parts not available anymore. Just a heads up. Simon C
While your under the machine with belly pans off don’t forget the damper case oil. There is a large fill plug and a check level plug. Also grease the u-joint while you down there. Do you have the service manual for the machine? Parts book?
It should be full to the full plug? Yes I got a few books for it. My torque converter strainer has quite a bit of metal in it. What do you think?
That material doesn't look like metal to me. Will any of it stick to a magnet.?
Hey Nige, turns out the is actually the trans strainer I believe. The torque converter strainer appears to be clean. I checked with a magnet and most of it is not metal. Some of it almost looks like chunks of yellow paint. This is the first piece of heavy equipment I’ve ever worked on so I really appreciate all the help guys. I’ve got an old bobcat and I build tow trucks but this is just a completely different beast.
Could be yellow paint, could be the remains of an O-Ring. One of the Kom gurus can probably tell better than I can if you can remove the particles from the screen and get a good photo. I would suggest separating what is metal from what is not metal then post a photo of the metal particles.
Maybe it’s clutch material. Turns out none of it is magnetic. It was just some shavings stuck to these pieces.
Looks like pieces of clutch, but should be more fines in the screen also. The triangle pieces look from a clutch. Simon C
Okay thanks Simon. Is that enough to be concerned about. This machine will just be used around the farm. James what oil are you running in your damper? Mine is low. Book says 10w engine oil. I have changed every filter and fluid in the machine. Book says to leave the bleed screws loose on the filter housings upon starting to push all the air out. Anything else I need to know or any recommendations. I figured I’d run it a few minutes and check the all the fluid levels again. Also is the steering fluid level checked with the dipstick threaded in or threaded out. Thanks again for the help everyone.
There is pictures on this site of filters plugged tight with steel and clutch material. May run for 5 years or 5 minutes. We have seen much worse. Check it every year or just live with it till it dies. I hope you realize that probably not supported by OEM or aftermarket as there was not a lot of these machines built compared to other models out there. Simon C
Put 1-2 Psi of air to the filler of the sump compartment on start up to help prime the pumps. A rag ball over the hole to hold back pressure with an air gun nozzle into the bore while making sure there is not too much air pressure against the rag ball. Wear glasses and control the amount of air or you may have a bath. Simon C
10W engine oil is fine for damper case. When you say “ steering fluid” do you mean final drives? Here is a pic of my final drive
on the steering clutch as long as it’s in between the two marks. Good reminder to check mine.
This is my first piece of heavy equipment so I might be confused. I thought the lower plug in that pic was the right final drive and the upper plug was the dipstick for the steering clutch case. And thanks I guess I’ll go ahead and change that fluid in the damper. That’s the last remaining fluid. I got this thing and the guy said it didn’t move and if it moved it wouldn’t turn left. It sat for 8 years so I’m trying to refresh everything. I got it cranked and moving and turning and loaded it on a lowboy and hauled it home. It’s possible it’s a big waste of time but it seems to run and operate fine.
You are correct on both. I wasn’t thinking straight. Take some pictures for us to see.
Here she is. The pins must have been replaced. They had minimal wear when I had to rebuild the lift cylinders a couple weeks ago. Has newer sprockets also. Hopefully it'll turn out okay.