when I bring the bucket towards me or vice versa the machine stops the rpm goes down and ends up dying what should I watch preasure port and spec ?! when raising it does not thanks
Check sequence valve in control valve. There should be a total of 3. 1 -⅛ or 1-¹/¹⁶ plugs on the top and bottom of the valve. 2 for bucket, 1 for boom. I think the F series had all 4. Anyway, the valve should come out with the cap. Based on your description, I'll bet they're stuck in the valve. Make sure to block up your boom and bucket safely and that there is zero chance of it crashing down, when you pull the valves, you will get tank oil. So have a vacuum on the tank or drain into a storage vessel. Good luck, safety, safety, safety. Please be extremely careful.
Thank you I will check today I hear the valve working abnormally strange noise hard to describe when writing I will take pictures of the spool
Hello everyone, I removed these 4 plugs the little spool works well on the 4 and I noticed when we turn the steering it hits like a little hydraulic hits
What are your cycle times ? Raising the boom off the ground to end of travel should be no more than 5.5 to 6 seconds
Mmm i have 14sec…
Pump 1 has likely crapped the bed. Pump 1 is work only, pump 2 is steering and work. Pump 3 is brake and fan. Is your steering ok?
Steering when we turn hes lagging
Like little shot in hydraulic even if our movement remains constant
Im guessing that those are the pumps dying efforts. I would advise no more work, you're just spreading shrapnel
I also noticed a fuel code 96-0 or-1 I will check the - . which occurs and fall into protection mode I have done several tests fast idle idle or while driving in the street a good mile and this code only occurs when I touch the working hydraulics or if I steer the engine idling fuel release my reasoning is that seeing that the engine drops below 500 rpm the feed pump does not provide the request I think except that if the hydraulic makes a request the engine should increase the rpm? this machine is the devil you remember me the shaft of the first and second gear breaking in December yep the same again lol my L60f is a good one but the L70g lol So I'm going to do pressure test and inspect my hydraulic filter and give u news soon Thanks for your time
Can u say to me if is normal or not thanks Https ://www.facebook.com/100000132714763/posts/4583158905031821/?d=n
That's ok, its loaded when installed.
The pump on the left, closest to trans is hurt. I'd be more concerned with that. Get your hydraulics square then run after engine issues.
The play is more easy to move on the Fuel pump trans side
Cam follower look good
Ok. Sorry, thinking of larger platform 110/120 60,70&90 have pump 2 under cab, pump 3 on engine. With such a slow cycle time, i would guess that the pump under the cab is hurt badly. Check your filter for debris. See if you've got packing material or worse, brass and iron.
Cycle time for boom raise should be about 5.5-6 seconds
I opened the fuel system because I had this code 96-1 and I heard a cliking noise coming from one of the 2 pumps I closed each injector one by one with the computer the noise has always continued so I do not believe that it comes from an injector now I have to reassemble everything I will open the hydraulic filter I think I have several problems in one Thanks for ur help again
my hyd filter look like this
And this i think is seal materials
Looks like bits of back up ring and a little bit of an o-ring. Do you have gauges for measuring work pressure? BTW, the filter doesn't look terrible as it sits. Did you squeeze the oil out in a vise? Do that and shine a bright light at it. See if it sparkles?
ok i squeeze the juice out and watch using a light and yes i have a gauge and working reach 3900 psi
I do OP NO: 913-001 at iddle i was low i adjust screew to read at iddle 1450psi
And my joystick do that its normal? https://www.facebook.com/100000132714763/posts/4586871307993914/?d=n
That things sounds rough. The fact that the bucket curl pilot spool is hanging up, is not good. What's a bigger concern to me, the pump is not destroking, instead, it's killing the engine. What I'd ask you to do is... First, verify brake charging is getting satisfied and that the accumulators are holding their charge. Pull up accumulator pressure in brake screen. Monitor pressure. Cut in pressure 1780-1800 psi. Cut-out should be 2180-2200 psi. Max brake charging, i would like you to set at 2350-2400 psi. That separates you far enough away from the cut out pressure. Then, in service go to max fan speed test. Turn it on and go full throttle. You should achieve at least 1800 rpm. Now, gauge your work pressure. Please set pressure with LS disconnected. I like to set it on its own, if you cant get a steady pressure, it usually indicates a fault in the compensator. Once you establish standby, resecure LS and set your working pressure. Place the frame lock in place, turn steering against stop, should see 2800 psi iirc. Let us know how it shakes out.
the first reading for the acc brake was 136 bar in my book it must be 155 + \ - 3 brake at the bottom 151 bar still for reading the acc and my brake pressure was 61 after a brake stroke after 2 strokes I read 70 I adjusted the aim to obtain 94 bar except that now my acc at rest is 175bar for the speed of my fan I obtained 1780 rpm I had already adjusted my question for the continuation LS you mean what by sorry my therm are in french i'm a little lost thank you again for your help it is greatly appreciated
LS means load sensing. Set standby with the load sensing line disconnected. The skinny line that goes to the compensator from the central valve. If you can't establish a steady pressure with the load sense disconnected, then, I'd say, you have a pump issue.
And I lock steer when I turn steering and I realese steer pump dont stop stoking too
Lock steer my reading
3800 psi for steering see try⁴⁴ms awful high. That seems more like work pressure. Is that when steering or when using hydraulic equipment.
I was plugged into the top port the one for the working pressure and I steer my error I must plug in at the bottom I think
On steering valve i read 2800 psi
3800 when i steer or when i tilt i get this result when im plugged center valve top port
That's better. Pressure reducing valve is correct. Steering priority spool is functioning correctly. Now we gotta see why that pump is killing the engine. What are your specs for standby and max work?
That's pump 2 inlet to central valve. That explains everything. I don't know why steering demand would full stroke pump though. It should only rise to demand. Id like to see if you could gauge load sense and compare against pump pressure only using steering
since I have adjusted the pressure on p3 the motor no longer dies but the pump remains in stroke
P3 never stops, it's either charging brake accumulators or running cooling fan. P2 is the only one that gets rest in that no work or steering demand allows it to rest at standby.
Standby at iddle and work at iddle too
Those are good numbers.
the nnmbers were not correct at the beginning I adjust according to the procedure of the book to obtain these values afterwards the motor would not die any more but I still hear the pump remain in stroke I give a touch of steer or joystick andh he stop stroking it looks like a spool which remains stuck I took out the two spool and seems good in the valve under boom
Now that the pump pressure has been established, you can move onto measuring your pilot or control or servo pressure.
Look https://www.facebook.com/100000132714763/posts/4589767044371007/?d=n
Ok i see this in the book i will perform this thanks you very much for helping
At the central valve, i need you to disconnect LSS and LSW and plug each hose.Those will be your load sense signal from steering and control valve. Start the machine and observe your pressure. Is it steady? Now turn the wheel against the frame lock. Observe the pressure. Now curl bucket back. Observe the pressure. Does your pressure remain steady, or does it take off on its own?
When I start the pressure remains stable but lower than before pictures 1 when I turn it goes down a little to 2000 psi when I get to the bottom it goes up picture 2 then if I bring the cup back it decreases to 0 when I get to the bottom it goes up again pic 3 4 5
Pictures 5
Results on videos if u want https://www.facebook.com/100000132714763/posts/4591669620847416/?d=n
Is that with the load sense line to the compensator unhooked?
On central valve i have ls for pump not cap lss and lsw caped
Lets unhook LSP to compensator. Cap and plug the fitting at the central valve. We want to see where the signal to stroke the pump is coming from. If you take away the load sense line to the pump, it should stay at standby. Please perform this test.
should i let lsw lss capp too?
Yeah, sure, it won't change what we're trying to do
Results https://www.facebook.com/100000132714763/posts/4591857277495317/?d=n
Sorry, but that pump is junk. It is creating its own load sense, which should not happen. Time for a pump.
yes when I saw that you spanked me catch the signal and that I saw the pump stroker anyway I said to myself that it did not look good for the pump I am young in the middle and I do not trust myself 100% for go ahead in the purchase of a pump which is very expensive thank you very much you have taught me and you have been patient with me it is greatly appreciated have a good day friend
That's what we're here for. Help people (hopefully) on the right path and avoid costly mistakes. You did everything i asked to help you come up with the answer. I hope that you understood why we did what we did and the order that we did them in. It helps for consistency and efficiency. Good job.
hi little update regarding my pump problem my boss brought in an external tech to make sure of my diagnosis and the guy says it's the regulator on the pump and are going to replace it do you think he knows?
The cost of a compensator to the cost of a pump, its hard to justify, "just the compensator" Plus, that pump was making serious noise under load. I wouldn't trust it, but it's not my decision.