I noticed a drop of oil coming out the front of one of the hydraulic couplers. It is the bigger one on the bottom. When I first got the machine, I had noticed build up around the end of the hydraulic arm that attaches to the bucket. I assumed the seal around it was leaking, but after discovering the hydro oil leaking out of the coupler, I figure it is dripping down onto the hose (shown in pic) and ending up around the front face of the hydraulic arm (also shown in pic). You'll have to forgive me for not know what these parts are called. I am still learning. I have provided pics for reference. My question is, can I replace the coupler without much trouble? And if so, how do I depressurize the system in order to get this done? I don't want to lose tons of fluid trying to do this. It looks like there's just a lock nut on the back side and it just unscrews? Thanks for any and all help. Hopefully these pics will show up. I am still learning how to do that as well. Ha, it worked!
Leaking auxillary couplers are common when operators don't clean them before inserting hoses or beat them with a hammer because they didn't release the pressure. If the machine has been sitting off there wont be much pressure on it, you can wiggle the aux control back and forth to relieve some of it. The "lock" nut is actually the Jam nut for the bulkhead style fitting that NH uses. First loosen the hard steel line and unthread completely from coupler. It will be a JIC 37* flare so it should turn nice by hand but make sure you do not tighten it too hard when you reinstall it and do not put anything on the threads. Either of these practices will damage the flare and it will leak. Then remove the jam nut and the coupler will come out of its mounting hole, repeat for installation. Here's a link to the coupler you should need . Remove your old on first, if you see an o-ring in the face versus a flare then you need an ORFS fitting and not a JIC. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00130244/k-G4701855?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword**&gclid=CIXh0YKQk70CFe87MgodWVYAmQ
Man, I don't know what I would do without your help. You are always coming to the rescue. By the time I get this machine back in tip top shape and all fluids and filters changed out, I will owe you big time. Your help is greatly appreciated! Question: If so happen I did need to release the pressure on the hydro system, how would I do that? You explained the uninstall and install very well. Thanks for that. The link you provided seems to not be working. I tried a copy and paste and didn't get anything either. Thanks for the help!
You can always just crack the line and it will let off the excess pressure. Keep hands away and wear glasses obviously. Copy and paste worked for me, just search for Parker PN: FEM-501-10BMF-NL thats what you are really after, I have no specific site you should but it from. Your NH dealer may have one too.
Ok, thanks. Crack the line? You mean pull back on the coupler as if you were going to hook in an implement? Or do you mean loosening the steel line on the coupler? Sorry, just trying to understand what you meant by cracking the line. I was thinking maybe that red button under the seat released pressure on the system as well? I don't know.
Grit: the terminology "crack the line" refers to many things in the big world around machinery ……. cracking the line means like crack the retaining nut or what ever a little loose SLOWLY to relieve the pressure or if it were an under pressure injector line you would crack it loose to bleed air out …….. ALL Lines that are under pressure can be very dangerous if not dealt with in a diligent manner …… these types of lines under extreme pressure can blow a hole right thru your hand or blow your finger off ! …. in this case maybe not BUT you should be more aware of the repercussions of what COULD HAPPEN IF ??? Maybe before you start digging too deep in some of these things start checking out some safety videos on you-tube or i'm sure there are WorkSafe vids at your regional depts …….. Just a thought !
http://www.fluidpowersafety.com/
That machine should be just like the CASE machine in the sense that you should not have to "crack the line". Sit in the seat, turn the key to on but don't start it, release the park brake, and actuate the aux. hyd button back and forth. That will drop the pressure without having to turn a wrench and make a mess. Being it its a NH you may have to buckle yourself in and then release the park brake.
This would be the correct method. Thanks for explaining it.
KSSS, thanks, that is what I was looking for. So the switch is on the left pilot control handle? What exactly is that control for? I have read about it, but it doesn't make any sense to me. Thanks for the help, guys, and thanks for that link, durally.
Well, I don't have that function on my pilot control handle. So I don't know where it would be.
Oh, just a little additional information on that leak. I cleaned up down below where it was leaking all over the smaller lower hose and fitting going into the cylinder. I didn't want it leaking on it again until I could get it fix, so I put a small plastic bag over the end; One, to catch any more leaks until it is fixed and, two, because I wanted to see if it was going to leak after wiping it clean. It hasn't leaked since I covered it. That tells me it is probably only leaking under pressure or when the machine is running. Would it still be a good idea to replace it?
Without going back in time (past postings, or when you inquired about the purchase thread) this machine has long stroking joy (L&R) levers to steer and pedals on floor for bucket and boom function ??? right??? (it's a totally mechanical system with push rods to actuate the spools which are located between your legs behind a removable floor panel, lift the seat and lock in up position first if you need to look at how it works) ….. if so the aux lines are actuated by the tilting of the "Right side" right handle, by twisting inward & outward, there will be a locking pin on the outside of the lever (which turns out 90* pull down to unlock) to prevent movement when you are Not using aux hyd's …… Let us know ???
No, it is full pilot controls. I guess that's what it is called. There is a right foot lever that control throttle as well. Left pilot controls drive functions. Right controls boom a tilt functions for bucket or aux.
K ….. Sorry can't help you ….. not familiar with your NH functions and it would be WAY different than my Bcat ……… Good-Luck ! PS ….. the way the cyl end looked to me is the seal on the cyl rod seal is weeping and NOT coming from above, unless somebody wiped the residual oil off of the top of the Barrel …….as far as the flat-face couplers goes sometimes there will be some piece of crap stuck in there and IF you had the male end to stick in there and cycle it a few times it will re-seal by releasing the foreign matter, that is also an easy way (and really safe way) to release the pressure from the line when the machine is not running push a coupler into it with a short hose on it …………… BUT, Please do read up on Safety of what was mentioned before …. it's not a matter of if you will get hurt it's WHEN if you are not aware of the dangers …. you could also Loose an eye !
Thanks, CRAFT. That's ok, I'm sure someone will come along that is familiar with it. Hopefully. I too first thought that it was the seal and had mentioned it in an earlier post. But when I saw the coupler leaking, I just figured that was the cause. I realize that it would have to run up the cylinder to have it covered like that, but then I thought maybe what was already down there worked its way up there when the boom was at full reach? I don't know the angles, so don't know if that is possible. If the previous owner did a lot of loading, that might explain it. But, the seal could very well be leaking too, I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I have cleaned everything up so if anything else is leaking, it will show up eventually. Thanks for your time and trying to help!
My machine that is similar to yours is a servo machine and not pilot. However I think it clears the same way regardless of whether it is servo or pilot (but I cant be certain of that). Whatever the switch is that actuates the main hydraulics is the switch that will clear the lines. Many times especially with grapple buckets, the hyd lines will be taunt, and if you remove the lines from the machine when they are full like that you will never get them back on without cracking the line. Before removing the lines from the machine make sure you remove the pressure. If you do that you will never have to crack a line. If you don't know which switch activates the main hyd. look in the book or post a picture and I could likely tell you which it is. also if you hook up to an attachment and the line pressure was not relieved prior to hose removal, if you can get one line on the machine and do the sequence as I outlined it will equalize the pressure and allow you to get the other line on.
Hey Grit, I didn't realize that you had pilot controls on your machine. Mine has the old standard mechanically linked controls. That said, the way I relieve the pressure on my hydraulic circuit is to turn the key to ACC then activate the aux control back and forth. It may work the same on yours, worth a try. Tim
Thanks, Tim. I have been looking for a solution to this since last night, but have not had any luck thus far. I have looked in my operators manual from front to back cover several times and have not seen anything that would answer my question. The only thing it says under the section SAFETY is, "Before disconnecting lines or fittings, be sure to release all pressure by operating the tractor control valves". That is all the book says. That just about tells me nothing, lol. It might mean something to you guys, but not me. The only AUX I see in the cab is on the control pad, and it says aux override. It only has one button for it. There are others functions on the same pad as well. Road Lights, Work Lights, Aux Override and Park. They are also used for AIC operator setup and menu functions.
It will likely not say aux. hyd. It is a switch that is on the control handle. If you can post a photo of both control handles and I will tell you which it is. You can also hook up a hyd attachment and use the switches on the control handle to make the attachment function. That will be the switch that you use to clear the lines. Somewhere in the manual is a diagram that shows all switches in the cab and on the control handles. There is will a corresponding section using numbers usually that will tell you what the numbered function is. I am guessing it will be a roller type switch that CNH used on the Pilot machines, but it depends on what options your machine has.
The picture I found of the pilot controls on that series machine shows nothing for the auxillaries. I wonder if its a floor control? http://agriculture.newholland.com/u...-Steer-Loaders/Documents/SkidSteerLoaders.pdf
Well, I messed up the photos again. I didn't use the insert image thingy so I just wiped it. But yes, durally brought up my exact controls and that is what they look like. There is a foot throttle on the right side, and I have seen what looks like half a petal on the left side, but didn't know if it was functional or what it did. Thanks for posting the PDF durally, save me some aggravation.
Grit : if this is the exact layout you have, There's your answer right in the pic where it's titled "OPEN FLOOR" ….. the Left pedal is a Rocker Pedal that will go forward and back, it is held there by a Detent in the centre position …… NOW go back to the previous instructions as to how to release the line pressure from the aux hyd's "when the machine IS NOT running" …………. If it was me and I had an attachment to couple up I would try and exercise the attachment (hooked-up obviously), run it for a bit and then un-couple and see if it still leaks after the residual oil has wept away
Thanks CRAFT. So let me get this straight. With the bucket on the machine, I'm able to control bucket and boom functions with my pilot. However, if I want to run an attachment (as in a grapple), I have to use the two foot peddles on the floor to operate the grapple? It's funny, while the left foot peddle (while in its neutral or center position), the right foot peddle acts as a gas or throttle peddle. Strange. Does the hydro fluid get redirected (when hooking up an attachment) so you can use the (right) foot peddle to control different attachments? Hope that's not confusing. As far as knowing how to release the pressure on the hydro system with the left foot peddle, I am still stumped. Maybe I am missing something, or maybe I am just dumb? The operators manual doesn't discuss how to do this. Thanks for all the help!
Yes this is correct. I am surprised at this layout. I have to go back along way to have a foot actuated aux. hydraulics. However if my memory serves me you simply have to actuate the foot pedal in both directions to clear the pressure in the lines. Because it is not electric over hydraulic as the newer machines are, you may not have to worry about the longer procedure I outlined earlier. However if that does not clear the pressure, than turn the switch to on but don't start, fasten seat belt, release park brake and actuate foot lever. If you have a door, the door has to be shut as well. You cant have any warnings illuminated on the dash or it wont release the hydraulics.
I was surprised too. Case had it back on the XT's IIRC? but that was a long time ago.
Gotcha! Now this might be another DUMB question, but how would I know if the pressure has been released? If not, I start taking something off and BAM, I get a shot. Is there any way to tell besides "cracking a line" and finding out the hard way? Can I squeeze a hose or something like that? LOL.
Is that good or bad?
Well its a mechanical activation (assuming its like the older CASE machines) so its more simple (zero electronics) but for me not as ergonomic as thumb switches and you cant modulate the flow. Yea I think the last machine I had that was like that was a 70XT circa 2003 I think. You can always tell by how taunt the hyd lines are. If they are heavy and pretty nonflexible they are under pressure. Just get in the habit of activating the foot pedal (hyd actuator) every time before you unhook the hyd. lines. You wont "get a shot" if you unhook under pressure. You simply will have a hard time hooking the hyd. lines back up. That is why it is best to get in the habit of relieving the pressure every time before you unhook. Cracking the lines is a PINTA, and I try to avoid it.
If your male flat faced coupler is leaking - often times you can replace the o-ring right inside the front by pushing in the center button with a long screw driver (placing the end of the handle against your chest), remove the old, and work a new one in the teflon retainer. I had to do it a couple weeks ago to a Case since I slightly tore the o-ring when I hooked up the grapple bucket as it was extremely cold out.
Thanks for the tip, Swannny. Hey thanks to everyone who helped me figure all this out. Great bunch of men here and I do appreciate all the help I get on this forum. If I could, I'd buy you all a beer....... even though I no longer drink. Thanks folks!
Thanks for the info, KSSS. Always appreciated!