A guy down the road has a JD track loader sitting in his field. I may be looking to buy it. There are no exterior markings, all I could find was the model and serial plate. However, it's not a model I've heard of. The plate reads as follows: model #810-820 Serial Number: 2194 Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
May want to contact a Deere Equipment Dealer, or get on a Green Power Site, this model dates well back into the 1960s and I would not be certain any parts still available thru Deere.
You may want to look in here. Posting will Probably get some answers. I would Bet DMiller is Right John Deere won't give support as Well as Cat. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/crawlers/wwwboard1.html Also http://www.jdcrawlers.com
take a few pictures of it and post them up, please.
I have a feeling that the 810 number is a Loader Frame number. Might be a 1010 or 2010 model,but I'm no expert.... If it's one of those,I've heard about issues with the Engine liner deck . Also,I think the whole final Drive has to be pulled to get at Steering Clutches,which might be bonded up from sitting. The experts will know more.
I found out it is a JD 1010CL diesel it runs and hydralics work guy ony wants a grand. I was going to get it for back dragging for grading. anybody know if it has enough power for that?
here are pics
more pics
At a grand I would walk away. Rails and shoes are toast, two broken bolts on one sprocket, no telling if any damage to cross bar supports, rock guards are also toast, bucket has not had a cutting edge in too long where doubt will shovel soft dirt before have a tear or break in the bucket skins. That my friend is a Money Pit. And yes a 810 IS a Deere Model and was the predecessor to the 1010.
It may not be the best for your intended use--for grading, it sounds like a dozer might be a bit better fit, although you could fit a blade in place of the bucket. As for parts, I have seen lots of used parts places for JD, and there are some who specialize in things like friction surfaces for JD machines. Shouldn't be a problem unless you are expecting a machine to be available every day, all day, with parts 24 hours away. I was looking at a 1010 some years back and was told that the direction reverser was some sort of a hydraulic setup that wasn't the most reliable. I don't know if your machine has this or not. You can't go too far wrong at just 1 grand for something that runs!! If it doesn't fit your needs, you should be able to get your money back to sell it. Jon.
Seth & I hauled home a 2010 free yesterday. It runs, but engine clutch is stuck. I'd have passed. Scrap value likely.
Info on the 1010 crawler loader tractor is on Tractordata.com. It looks like your SN was built in 1961 and the "C" in the model number suggests that it is an industrial model as compared to a farm crawler. The difference is likely in the transmission, which came with a choice of 4 speed gear transmission or a 4 speed shuttle transmission. The loader versions were supposedly a "CL" version as you have suggested, but your SN plate does not show this. Power was supposedly about 40 hp. There wasn't an 810 prior to this machine, as far as Tractordata shows. However JD has been pretty loose with model numbers. There was a 1010 wheel tractor; and 810 3-bottom plow, and an 810 current model logging forwarder. The tracked crawler predecessors were more likely the 420 crawlers. DMiller makes some good points on things to check for. Looking at both sprockets there have been a lot more bolts than 2 missing. It looks like a previous owner may have drilled some out to go to the next size up. If you are looking at this 60 year old machine you probably are not scared of doing some wrenching on it. Rock guards are straightforward fabrication work and fixing worn cross bars will probably mean some visits to a machine shop. Tracks and undercarriage are the age-old bugbear. That is entirely up to the size of your wallet. By the look of the rock guards, the chains are pretty snakey. Maybe a wrecking yard might have something a little better than what you have? The internet and time can be your friend here. I've seen a new old stock sprocket for a small older JD crawler going begging for a buyer at 150 Cdn pesos on Kijiji in Alberta for months now. But one sprocket doesn't do you much good. Keep us posted on what you end up doing! Jon
I have never been let down by you guys!!!! Dmiller, willie B you guys have so much knowledge to share I appreciate you all so much
I offered they guy $500 bucks we will see if he answers back. I figured for $500 Ill use it for a yard machine. I think I'm going the way of a small dozer to grade with now. I REFUSE to go the skid steer route. I hate them
In the early eighties, my future brother in law was early twenties. His father owned 60 acres of timber land. His father bought a 1010 dozer with winch. Winch models are used HARD, this was not an exception. A neighbor made the comment: "When your timber is free, dad buys you a crawler, saw, & tooling, but you can't make a profit logging, something is wrong!" I believe he paid $3500. 1980 dollars, sold it back to the same guy he bought it from for $500. My son's buddy bought it now, paid $500. Before buying into this thing ask & answer a few questions: Am I an excavator, or a mechanic? Can I get parts? How much am I willing to spend to make this thing functional? Can I afford the hundred or more hours I'll spend making this useable? There is a guy in Morrisville VT who forgot more about these tractors than John Deere ever knew. Mark ? The last name I've forgotten. He buys & rebuilds them & works on them for others. Several years ago I found out about him through Antique John Deere tractor forum. He gave me a lot of advice about what to look for.
the guy declined my offer of $600. I don't blame him. I'm hoping to have enough money after this next job that ends this sat to buy a small proper dozer. I'm looking at a 1987 CAT D4H high track that has first gear smoked out but the under carragie is good and the motor is strong. looked into it and it may be a simple fix but even if I have to rebuild the first gear clutch at around 10k for the dozer I dont mind sinking a few grand into it.
wille I just noticed your an electrician too! I did the 8000 hours of apprenticeship and 525 hrs of school. i am doing the last semester this spring. I left electrical to start my own thing so I could do what I really loved. not sure if I said as much but I grew up in vermont in addison county off 22a. I loved your few questions to me it made me think it would have been a mistake to pay more then 500 for that 1010.
If you took a pass on it, you need to celebrate. We unloaded the 2010 Seth got free. Pushing it with my TD7G, the track fell off. A nice machine, you'd budget $7000. for new undercarriage. Don't even know if they'd be available for this. This one will likely end up scrapped.
I'd pass again on the Cat. A crawler needing unspecified cost or effort work is a big gamble. I paid $11000. for this. It was working condition. I haven't added up what I've spent since buying it.
around 10k is what I have to spend.. I just found out that d4h is a 24,000 lb machine. a little too heavy. I was looking for between 15,000-20,000 lbs. any recommendations for make/ model?
You should check again. D3 is roughly the same as TD7G roughly 7 tons. John Deere 450, Case 450, all near the same weight. I'd be surprised if D4H was that heavy.
I found a Dresser TD7E for 8,500. everything works as it should but hour meter is broken. I only have 7K but I figure I show up with a truck, trailer and cash on the spot he may take it. What am I looking for on machine to determine if its in good shape willie? The D4H I was looking at was the high track model with winch thats why it was over 20,000 lbs. It also had 90HP.
The usual, leaks. Engine condition can be tricky, low oil pressure, smoke, dirty oil, scary sounds. Run it a good long while. Drive it, make sure everything works. A common problem on these is not enough clearance between front of track & angle cylinder. Mine were a bit scuffed when I bought it, then a pin rear of the C frame fell out, obliterated the barrel of the hydraulic cylinder. Undercarriage is expensive. Send a private message with Email, I'll send specifications for evaluating undercarriage. Lots to measure, but a quick evaluation: Back up a hill so track is stretched. leaving tension on the track, set the park brake. At top of the shoes on the ground, measure from the same point across 4 shoes. I believe you want 6" pitch with this model. 24-1/4 is half worn out, 24-3/8 is 3/4 worn out. 24-1/2 is fully worn out.
Is there a typo here in your track wear measuring instructions? Shouldn't you be measuring the top, stretched tight, 4 links instead of the bottom bunched up ones from backing up? I'm confused.
I've been wrong before. Going forward sprocket walks on a path laid for it, no great tension. Backing up a hill there is tension everywhere but rear of tractor. I guess you are correct greatest tension would be at top of track, but not likely flat where easy to measure. I stand corrected.
Everything I have read in Caterpillar measuring guides is to measure when track is pulled tight and to measure center to center of 5 pins to equal 4 complete links. It may be easier to measure the pin ends than on the pads.
I'd guess measuring chain wear would be easy enough to stretch with a grease gun. I've always thought it difficult to be accurate at top of the chain as only one roller to support it, there'll be some sag.