I seem to be striking out trying to find dead shafts an older d7e. The were readily available last fall but now no one can seem to get them. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Do you have your old shaft out of the case? tctractors
Not yet. But we have pretty well everything else off of it. They are damaged. The threads are stripped out on the ends also
To get these shafts out you will need to weld an adapter to the end of the D/shaft and use a 105 ton cylinder plus a very large Rose Bud heater on the main case, don't forget to leave the inner C nut with about 1/4" gap from the case as they pull off the taper with some force, you will need about 9'000 psi rod in and then the heat to shake them free, then they will need pressing out near all the way, they are difficult to get out so best of luck. tctractors
Yes we'll need some luck. I do have the proper caterpillar tooling. But I'm not looking forward to it. If I didn't have so much in the tractor I probably would part it out. I've got a lot into the rest of it so I guess we're going to give it a whirl
But even so. So far I can still can't find them
https://www.chromecraftreman.com/caterpil.htm#Dead Axles/Final Drive Hubs Maybe worth a call
Better be prepared to state which axle you need.. 47A1-3395, 48A1-6392 uses a 5M5032 47A3396-up, 48A6393-up, 93N, 94N, 91V, 92V uses a 2S7062. Difference in weight 149 lbs vs 184 lbs.
I don't know if this is an option for you but there is an alternative Cat Yelllowmark Shaft for 2S-7062. Part # 219-9673 listed at $1,230 ea and available in Cat Morton warehouse. Original 2S-7062 also available in Morton for an eye-watering $3,100 ea. 5M-5032 is showing as "indirect replacemet, contact dealer" which I assume will also take you to 2S-7062.
You seem to have some pretty good connections to figure out what is what Nige. My machine is a 48A9167. I appreciate everyone's help
Thank you
So according to your Serial Number and what OM posted above your dead shaft should be a 2S-7062. So with Cat parts you have the option of a genuine 2S-7062 @ $3,100 each or a Yellowmark 219-9673 @ $1,230 each. According to what I can see both Part Numbers are available even if there could be a significant delivery time from the warehouse in IL to your local dealer. I have no idea how good the Yellowmark part might be in this particular application. Maybe someone else could offer an opinion.
Costex has it for 635.72
Cat parts says 2S7062 fits D7F, D7G and D7G series 2. So should be plenty around still.
The list won’t include D7E because the D7 model range only started on SIS with the D7F
Regal has it at $785.98
Well that's great guys. I appreciate the input from everyone. I'll start making some different calls on Monday
did you get your dead axles out, i had 150 tons on mine ,no heat and did not move, i did succeed in pulling the nut off the end i thought it was finally moving but not so much, just the nut.
See Tony's quote from a post further up the page. The heat (plus a very large cylinder) is the key............
i have heard of guys doing an 8 with just a puller, but didn't see it in person, i was told if i use heat get it the first time or it will shrink i am concerned about draining and venting the case once i start heating i don't want to stop.
I'll let Tony comment on that one.
Well D8H/K's the shaft is bolted in, it still needs pulling out but is not hard going, the D7's can be pigs to set free and only been able to do it with the addition of a BIG Pepper Pot to heat the case, when the shaft pops free of it's taper a flame will shoot out like a Volcano so you need to keep well to the side, I have done 3 or 4 and struggled with every one needing heat, I would have done at least 20 D6 dead shafts and never had any trouble, some of the D7's do not have pulling holes in the main case to re-mount the shaft with the Service Press tooling, this involves fitting a bashing bar into the adapter, then I use the scrap shaft to beat it home using a long sling and a hoist to swing it off, when the inner case nut has firmed up and the measurement is good you then have to drill and clip the nut. tctractors p.s. I think there is pictures of a D7 dead shaft job I did in the CAT sprocket pulling thing I posted.
thank you both tct and nige good grief figures....i guess the up side they maybe don't come loose as often as the old 6's, had some one swear the grease zurk thing would work i argued, not enough area to make pressure. Well now i have a big glob of grease to burn up as well. different D7E i am concerned because the keeper"lock 8S5206" to lock the nut for big timkin preload is not where it belongs. is there a super easy way to tell if holder assy is loose on taper VS sprocket spline being loose i can get some joggje at sprocket with a bar. maybe i am prying against track frame or something that moves a little i will check again it was cold and dark when i brought it home.
It’s threads like this that make me thankful I’m now into the hi drive game.
And when they were first introduced the perceived wisdom was that "quirky idea but it'll never catch on"
Yes it took Caterpillar quite a few decades, but they finally saw the light and followed other manufacturers and removed the track frame from the final drives. I remember reading a D7F service manual and it said flog the dead axle in with a hammer while someone tightens the inner nut on each blow. Until you reach the measurement specification.
I do it a bit like that but whacking it in until the inner nut near stops moving, all the time keeping the measurement target under control, the key way on the dead shaft is always installed in the 12 o'clock position so you will know if it's spun in the case if this datum is not as it should be. tctractors.
TCT When i start heating my case to pull this axle D7E48A how much heat gets itself all the way through the case do you usually drain it or drain and vent ,a somewhat local UC guy said he heats from both sides (top and bottom) , it takes about 4 hours. for me i would almost rather machine it out than re dissemble. i just put the fuel tank and seat back in, new breaks new bearings 75% clutches new Teflon the works i think the bevel gear cover may come off without too much work (to vent) don't remember where the valve block bolts down. i got this thing to do a couple off grid property roads drove it onto trailer for 1500.00 not bad for 45,000LB of No1 (had to fix broken track first) transmission HYD pump has some attitude no 3rd gear and i am guessing a few low liners I will be surprised if it gets used 100hr pr year. i broke a track on my McCormick Deering TD40 and parts for that are ubobtanium, i got the cat because sometimes parts availability is more important than price. and crawlers are just plain fun everybody should have at least one.
and i was wrong on pulling the 8 axles ,it was sprockets. and the guy didn't leave the nut on made quite a mess. no one hurt.
Well D8H/K's don't have a nut to worry about just a ring of bolts, pulling off the sprocket is safe enough as things should be set correct and pin locked, unless you are a total nutter, anyhow forget 4 hours of gas mark 5, just drain the transmission oil, the case around the shaft is the only bit you heat you are waving the pepper pot around the bit that holds the shaft and you are not turning anything RED other than your face, you do this after trying to pull it without heat as you never know? if you are using a 105 ton cylinder I would take the pressure upto around 8'800 psi as its handy to have a bit in reserve, if it fails to pop free then apply the heat gun with the pressure still up, it will take about 5 to 10 min's to get a result with if needed more pressure from the pump towards 10'000 psi, the heat is the thing and don't forget it rises so heat the bottom more. tctractors p.s. the nut on a D8H/K is a long way from the sprocket - hub interface, I tend to think someone was trying his hand not knowing what he was up to, go in to Shop Talk and look at my thing Pulling Sprockets.
heating and pulling sounds like gravy. my thought is enough heat to deform it a little and there you are, but i was told different. it cant be that hard people a lot dumber than me can do it .maybe i am just a chicken to be under there. i pulled pinions with no heat most of 60 ton i used 1" hot roll to make the plate,wrinkled it like a potato chip. i had over 100 on the sprocket ( with finals off the machine) and had to ring it a few times to get it to pop. i expected it to be more eventful. those kind of pressures are really scary. got my bottles filled maybe this weekend i give it a try. i don't know what model the d8 was bat after the sprocket went through the wall it did a lot of damage to the truck outside. story goes the guy put the pressure on to leave it over night and in the morning it would come loose. it had in fact come loose with nothing to stop it. When i was a kid we did a lot split rims on mostly dump trucks go slow and careful nobody gets hurt.