Hello all I'm currently looking for a small farm dozer. I need to be able to haul it on a 14000 gvw gooseneck. I have ran across a massey 200 and an international 500. I know these are old machines but there just isn't much out there these days for a small dozer. They both run and are diesel. Both have power shuttles. The massey needs steering work on one side and supposedly has 50-60% undercarriage. The international has supposedly good sprockets with some wear on the tracks. It was used to clean out a barn in Erie pa. If I could get any opinions and comments on this would be greatly appreciated.
I would try and find a JD 350. The parts should be more available for that machine. The government had a pile of them. There is a place in Myerstown PA called Wegners that still sells parts for them. I just got clutches for the winch on the 550 JD I have.
Yes I have heard of them. Problem with the jd 350 is no one is selling them in my area and when they do they want too much for them.
Cat D2, IH TD6 are the only older ones I can think of, The 350 I believe is too heavy for the 14000 GVW rated trailer. Study well, and weigh the trailer. What is your true payload capacity. I presume your trailer has 7000 lb axles, that plus 1400 lbs of tongue might get yot 15400 gross. Subtract the empty trailer weight. What will you tow it with?
I have a 3500 single axle gmc crew cab. I can haul a 350 but that's max. The trailers payload is 10500.
I like the komatsu d21 but they are too high priced also.
Small dozers, especially the 6-way, are the most popular machines. Everybody wants one which is why they are priced high. I would suggest you spend a bit more and get a good machine versus buying a cheap one that you will not be happy with. I know a guy here that has a Case 450C 6-way that he will be selling here soon, but it needs all the lower rollers, sprockets, and rails. I'm thinking it will sell as is for around $12k. Your going to spend 20-25K on a decent dozer and that's for an older machine.
Yeah that's the bad thing......price. How are the older cas 450 machines? I'm pretty sure I can haul the ones before the c series but not 100%sure. Found a deere 350 for 5000 but little afraid of it. Has a rope with sweeps and winch but they only have one picture of it and still waiting on more info on it.
Dang spell correct spelled rope for rops.
Have also found an allis chalmers 653. Anyone know anything about this machine. Can't find much about it on google.
I had a D21A 20 years ago. Direct drive. Good dozer. I paid 13K for it back then, low hours in great condition. Sometimes they can be found reasonably priced. I think it only weighed 7500 pounds. It's more difficult to do fine blade work with puny dozers, though.
I'm only planning on using it to maintain roads,do a pad for a house,and cut in a driveway. Looked into renting a dozer but geez by the time got done paying rent and insurance could buy one.
While you could 'buy one' for what renting may cost that doesn't mean you'll get the job done for that same cost... one good thing about renting equipment is if/when it breaks you simply call the rental outfit and they make sure you are able to complete your task. Now with that said I personally would rather own equipment for my home projects but sometimes they can take a long time to complete or they might not get done yet... as sometimes the 'toys' are still broken and in need of repair/parts and may stay that way for years unfortunately...
Yeah that is the one thing about renting that is nice,but I also like owning my own equipment.
In your weight range there is a short list of models. JD 350 series is too heavy, Case 450 is too heavy, Cat D3 is too heavy. As the owner of a Dresser TD7G seven + tons, I will say that mine is too light for most needs. I can skid logs, spread topsoil, I can do other jobs, but I'm inefficient for too small a machine. Still, you can't move my machine. Those of us dabbling in machinery, and moving it should search in earnest for a mover. I flinched at the first 20 or so moves I had to pay $200 through $500. In retrospect, that is dirt cheap. My 9 ton trailer has cost 6000 plus registration, and inspection costs. My old, but functional haul truck cost $3700 to buy. I've spent twice that since on it. I pay $700 annually on registration, and $350 for insurance. Frequently, I must repair something, at more cost. Did I mention fuel? My old truck is a gas engine. Wow! Find a hauler. It isn't necessary that a hauler be cheap, it is still cheaper than hauling your own. Then it becomes less important to have a little crawler. Then, I'd look around for a Dresser TD 15, Cat D7, JD750, or Case whatever matches the 15 ton range.
What makes the jd 350 too heavy for me to haul? Opperating weight is 10600 supposedly. The case 450c is heavier than the 450 and 450b. I found somewhere that the case 450 is just over 10000 lbs operating weight. I'm on a budget so buying another truck and trailer is just too much to do. I'm already trailer poor as it is now I have three different farms I would be using it at at several different times of the year so hiring someone is out of the question also. That could get very expensive. I know smaller dozers are limited on their abilities but still better than a tractor with a box blade I don't need to make money with the machine it's for personal use only.
I stand corrected. I'd have sworn the last time I looked up JD350 was when I was selling a trailer much like you describe. A potential buyer wanted to move a JD350 with all angle blade, and winch. As I recall his weighed in between 12000, and 13000. Is my memory off, or is there fine print? His weight, a number of years ago was scale weight. More recently, I studied crawlers in the range of JD 450E. The Dresser TD7, Case 450, and Cat D3 were all close in published weight; 7 tons plus.
Oh ok. I got my info off of Ritchie specs on the jd. That could be just a straight up plane jane dozer I have found different info on the cases though. The 450c which is the cummins engine one is around 14000 lbs. The older 450 true case dozers (meaning case engine) were substantially lighter. Can't remember where I found that info though. I'm going crazy with research Wish they still made the smaller dozers in the case 350 size besides komatsu d20-d21.
That's a bit heavy for a straight 350 (no letter)--could it have been a 350C? Here's the data for a B model: https://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/construction/non_current_products/crawler_dozers/350B.pdf The straight 350s are quite a bit lighter than the B's or C's. Here's a discussion about 350 weights: http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=8129 And another: http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=420697 That should give you a range. It'll be a load on your 14K gooseneck. I have a 350 crawler loader and I would haul it on my 14K gooseneck if I had to, but it would be at the max and would exceed my 18K lb tags (tow vehicle is a 2017 RAM 2500 HD--more than enough for that load). Regarding size and what you can do--I've cleared quite a few acres with the 350 loader and it's a pleasure to use. It can do a lot more than it seems like it should, especially considering the tracks on mine are almost flat. I often wish I had it's dozer companion with a 6-way. Don't underestimate what you can accomplish with them--it might take longer, but they are very capable and dependable. I have the 9300 backhoe attachment for mine, and it has more than paid for the machine! Though hanging 3000 lbs off the back of those small machines is a bit of a stretch!
Thanks for the info it really helps. I figured I could do it. I have a 3500 single axle gmc to do my pulling. It's only a gasser but man it doesn't do bad. If it isn't enough truck I'll borrow dads duramax love the exhaust brake on that thing. I really wish I could find more info on allis chalmers 653. Found one in state for 9000. Has 6 way with winch and the tracks look new in the pics. Going to call about it tomorrow anyway just be nosey
You have to read the fine print. Some manufacturers might publish weights without blade, winch, ripper, or ROPS.
Ok so finally found a little info on the 653 allis chalmers. The operating manual says it weighs 8800lbs so what should I add for rops,winch,and six way blade?
Almost all manufacturers listed weights as bare crawler tractors until fairly recently. To start with, they didn't make there own blades, there were several makers of blades, etc.
Ok so is there maybe an average weight could maybe go by or do I need to try to find out who made the blade and rops?
You need to look long and hard at the Allis consideration, parts are next to impossible to find, the rails and undercarriage interchange to nothing else so if well worn are deal killers. I own Allis machines, trust me I know.
Do you know anything on the 653? I read in another forum they supposedly have the same track pitch as a 350 jd. The one I'm looking at looks like it has a good undercarriage on looking at the pictures. I haven't been able to go look at it yet is there anything else that I would need to look for with it? It has a sixway blade and winch.
I would ask him to send pics of the bushings viewed from the underside. That's what I look at first.
653 and HD4 were basically same machine. Small 50hp rate 4 cylinder radiator at the operator end of the engine compartment. Rails are 6" pitch with all the measurements being Allis and no one else. 653 will be a later unit with pedal steer but almost any smallish issue and will be a yard ornament in short order. Parts are made from Unobtainium these days. Minnpar supply house in Minneapolis has SOME odds and ends but as these get older there are no component makers reproducing parts for them. Deere 350 used 5.75 rails, Case 450B used 6.0 but good luck there as well as most suppliers cannot get them either. If I were looking would stick with Deere or Cat, Case or Komatsu as a last resort. Allis just is not a good choice for any longevity in even off steady use. I own a 7G with a second for parts as well a AC farm tractor the AG parts are now three times what they were just four years ago.
I was very close to writing a check for a JD450C. I had run it, all seemed fine, a nice unit. I have a friend who owns a 450G, and is knowledgeable. He went with me to pick it up. We ran it much longer, and although it was a snowy day, we crawled under. After a while, smoke started to roll from under the winch. Investigating, I found a non original hose from the engine crankcase vent to beneath the winch. Engine was badly worn if the hour meter was accurate at 3500 hours. I noticed the transmission was clean, and newly painted. Difficult, but close examination revealed steel plates welded to the cast iron transmission. This was a walk away, with a big sigh of relief. Further investigation found that this model was prone to broken bolts holding the track frames to the front crossmember. It's a big job to get these broken bolts out, so lazy, or in a hurry mechanics weld the crossmember to the track frame. Welded is too rigid, and the crossmember breaks. This puts enormous strain on the transmission case. Find a very knowledgeable mechanic. Get him to inspect it. Whatever he charges, happily pay, it'll save you thousands. Old crawlers need TLC. I bought an '89 Dresser in very good condition. I still spent much of the winter going through it . a few thousand later, I have a good tractor.
Track bushings that engage the sprockets are the likely earliest point tracks will show wear. Reach in, grip the bushings at the top of the track, from underneath. New ones are cylindrical. worn ones are oval sort of, one side worn flat.
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if parts were getting hard to find. So I guess the Allis is in the same boat as massey and international. It looks like I'll keep looking then.
I was in touch with a guy that has a 350 deere and he was being kinda vague. He finally sent me some pics and wow it was wore out. The whole blade needed resurfaced. He said all it needed was chains lol. My brother is a operator and I have a couple buddies that know a good bit about equipment. But there is always someone that has seen something different and that's why I joined this forum.
All read: "Ran when Parked" but that was fifteen years prior, "Just used the other week"(even if ten years ago), "Would not hesitate to use it hard" but cannot get the rails to stay on, "Damned reliable, well worth the money" sitting in a pile, "Just needs a little TLC" and a engine, transmission, rails shoes and a blade or bucket. Machine owners are proud of their stuff. Proudest days of a new owner of a machine, the day he bought it and the day he sells it. First thing I look at is moss or algae growing on it and extent of rust from a distance, then ask when last service done, then comes the scrutiny that many do not expect and try to defend on a worn slick machine. On walk up rails(adjusted, measurements, shoes), coolant level/condition, oil appearance, leaks, age of flexible hoses, believe it or not the seat, the controls area, how much crap is in the belly pans, if the belly pans are even on it, then operate it. A lot of no sales for premium dollar on a salvage only tractor.
If you really want a small dozer to just tidy up areas then I would shop around to some of the closer used equipment yards. They may not be pretty and may need some work for a reasonable high cost but they may actually stand behind their machines. On the other hand a skid steer these days is as or more handy, more uses and better options for attachments. My heavier work is coming to a close in a year or so, may end up parking the big loader or selling outright and buy a skid steer.
Yeah I'm just shopping now problem is there just aren't many close places to shop. If anyone close has that one machine you want it's usually out of your budget.
For good reason , you won't go far wrong with one . Dozer is as good as the parts supply . Drove one a week or so ago , clutch was us ,but no worries , poke it through with no complaints . It had a hydraulic winch on it run through a diverter valve . Needed it too as the fella put it over a dropout . Bit quick with the power on not having the clutch and prone to stall with little power .It had a key stop , kept running a couple of times after it was turned off , drill is to turn key back quick , and let her cool . Power this , power that , blade had the bells and whistles . Rather like it and the only problem the fella has had with it has been one track adjuster .
Older tractors are going to be an issue with parts. I've heard horror stories about JD, commonly they refer you to a new major component when you need an O ring. Dresser hasn't been a problem, but I have an incredible parts man. He knows of thousands of substitutes that fit, and Komatsu offers all the essential parts. IH crawlers have a cult following, so forum members will usually help out. AC is often a problem. I've been told Cat is the only manufacturer that dependably supports old machines.
I did find a 47 cat d4 all hydraulic 6 way blade. They want 6000 for it. I think it's the d4-5u. I do know of an international 500 but it's under about a foot of snow. It's supposed to only have 1800 hrs on it.
I would limit my search to torque converter tractors. They are easier to use, and make the most of lower horsepower engines. Mine, for example has power shift, power reverse. No need to stop. I can ease into a stump, and never bog down the engine. Less breakage is another benefit.
Check the Cat ACMOC site, I would listen to those guys n the older machines
Take a look at the Cat. A 5u is a D2, A D4 is a 7u. For $6000 it should be in top shape with good tracks. I would avoid any power shift machine, they can cost $15,000-20,000 to rebuild.
Power shift for any not used to using a dozer is an absolute, too easy to not make the clutch or get feet and hands hosed up when pushing a stump or tree with a direct drive and end up high centered or on its side, power shift just step on throttle decel and unit will stall down or step on brakes.
Not to change direction but have you given any thought about a skid loader with over tire tracks ? Pretty handy all around rig for various farm tasks . Not to mention all the different attachments that can be utilized with them . Just a thought .
I already own a 8000lb mini excavator. I need something to move the big rocks(size of excator)to an old pond filling in and root balls. Already have a 4x4 50hp tractor with loader. Found a 350 case dozer,are parts still available for these small crawlers.
Case has turned problematic in the last few years, some machines even as new as ten years people are dealing with lack of pieces. If your rocks are that big I would be looking to a median sized loader, shoving them around with a dozer is not that great especially if any distance involved and a fifty hp dozer may only be marginally better at that than your existing tractor. The mini is a better all round machine, add a skid steer and you will be better off than an antique tracked dozer.
The long and the short of it is, if it's cheap, chances are it's junk. Parts are never cheap. If you're not renting it out, you're not making any money to pay for anything that goes wrong. If you can't afford reliable and effective equipment that experienced people are steering you towards then perhaps you should wait until you can fork over the cash. You have kind of fenced yourself in with weight, and money holding you back
Yes I know what your saying. I'm currently working on freeing up some assets so maybe will be able to look at a little higher price.
Better to get something worth getting than to rush in and regret it
For sure. I have been kinda looking for awhile but am just now getting serious. Had the chance on a komatsu d21 about a month ago for 10500. Money just wasn't there at the time and it sold in less than a week.
Yeah , if I understand correct you are reclaiming / filling in an old pond ? Why go to the extra trouble moving the large rocks to the pond ? Dirt not available ? Crazy questions a contractor might ask
The dirt and rocks are available. That's the one thing that is where am cutting in a road so filling in the pond due to it needed cleaned out anyway.Have no need for the pond anymore.
Here is a pic of the allis chalmers I was thinking of looking at
Grousers are weld ons, the rail and visible sprocket do not appear to be all that rough but a measurement across five pins divide by four will tell you the internal pin/bushing wear. Are not bad little finish dozers but will not work as well as a larger unit for digging just do not have the weight. Winch uses hydraulic controls, check the fluids levels if looks really fresh and clean may be a continual leaker. Just remember, buying a Allis you buy a maintenance head ache for parts, cheap is not always as cheap over the long haul.
No rock guards on the track frame. You will need them.
Ok thanks for the info guys. They want 9000 for it, do you think it is worth looking at. It's 3 hrs away.
A functional 653 is not worth $9000, maybe 4 or 5 but not 9, would seem the owner is proud of a machine that does not rate so high. Look elsewhere. Look to Machinery Trader, half again larger machines are selling for less than that. If you are absolutely hung up on a price tag I can only say good luck as you will most likely spend at least as much if not twice as much in repairs the first year if you cannot perform them yourself on a cheap machine. I bought a wreck knowing what I was buying, spent almost twice as much working on it myself over two years time in parts but I am still under what I would have spent on a similar Cat. If you have to have someone else work on the machine you will not be able to afford it especially if an obsolete minimal parts available machine. At this point I would rent for as long as it took to get the job done and turn the rental back in. A decent yard with Deere machines should be able to set you up with a 555 series loader for that $9000 over a months time. They are responsible for equipment failures while you would be for breakage due to abuse.
We looked into renting and it just isn't possible. If we hade a month of being able to work on everything it would be ok but trying to work and just weekends it just doesn't work.
I would work then at building savings and going a larger skid steer with either tracks or tires with added chain tracks. Time to be patient as all you will end up with is anguish if get anxious and buy a bad/wrong/limited function machine now. Jumping at what appear bargains is not a good response as you spend good money after bad on these. The size machine you are looking at is a brush pusher, not trees, landscape trim machine or grade cleanup size not a road digger and not a reasonable choice for what I have heard described in needs.
A 653 breakout force is only around 4000 pounds, my 7G is around12,000, weight on my machine is 23,000 where 653 is around 11,000. The 653 is also a forty five plus year old obsolete machine(1970-1975). A T180 Bobcat in worn but good order and NOT new is worth the effort to wait for financially if you want an all round functional and effective for what you need machine. Similar specs, faster, less fuel use and parts are available no issues. Is the size you are considering, is the versatility you hint at and will serve you far longer than the antique you are considering.
The 653 machine above is lacking the front solid idler that was carried in the 650 series line, it also exhibits significant blow by from the exhaust on the roll cage. Recommend the author of this post look to rent an excavator and call it a day - unless the work needs exceed that which are contemplated in this post. Good Luck - Orangeman
Is probably a scrapper HD4 front idler replacement from a past repair, they used the spoked center.
There's a lot to be said for being able to use your own machine when you want it, as opposed to having to put 40 hours on it in a week's time. When I decided to buy machinery to do work on my land, I estimated how many hours I would put on an excavator, a skid steer and a dozer. As it turned out, the skid steer has been so useful that I have used it 4 times as many hours as I estimated. The visibility is poor and you can't do everything with them, but are so maneuverable, productive and versatile that I just can't imagine not having one on my place. Maybe you could buy a skid steer and just rent a dozer for one day here and one day there, times when you simply must have power tilt. Don't buy a skid steer under 6000 pounds to work around a farm though.
Dave: Allis carried the open sprocket front idler for a lot of years. Including the old HD line, the M line and the H3 and HD4 machines. Later Allis Industrial engineering caught up through observation with Caterpillar and began using solid drum type idlers on the 650 line - a smart move on their part albeit to late. At that point Agnelli/Fiat had already sunk the ship for the dozer, loader, crawler line. Imagine through good engineering practice - refining and growing the 650 series to the HD7 GB size with a power shift, 100 hp and hydrostatic with a rear engine. Allis could have had a very competitive machine - but at that point it was too late. What happens when Corporate greed, mismanagement and take overs pop up? He_ _ can't we even make a small to mid size crawler here in the U.S. anymore? Orangeman
I have thought of a skidsteer but have read mixed reviews on them comparing to dozers. We still have to do a pad for a house and maybe a barn later on with a couple other roads. The excavator is good for the stumps and trees and rocks. I'm going to continue looking at all options and keep my eyes open.
We use excavators all the time for pads, footings, foundations, roads, etc... maybe not the most time efficient tool for some of the jobs but certainly the most versatile and usually with the close quarters jobs it is the only to go from what you have said time is not really a concern anyways??? Skidsteers can also be a very versatile tool to do just about anything with dirt... again it can just take more time and planning. again like others have said rent something bigger for the few jobs that will require it and do everything else with a smaller cheaper machine. I haven't seen you mention your skills/tools for repairing old iron... when you have to start calling in mechanics to fix things that initial 9 grand will seem cheap compared to what it costs to fix transmissions and motors on a dozer...
A good repair manual and Google goes a long ways when working on equipment. I can do my own work so that isn't an issue. I worked in a shop where we rebuilt mining equipment for some time so getting greasy isn't a problem
I still think it a shame Allis went out, so far ahead on so many points, longevity being number one. I like mine otherwise would not be working on it as much as do.
If they lasted a long time, bankers didn't draw interest long enough. Mergers and acquisitions always equate to lower quality. Seems that's true in every industry. Mergers are the building blocks of monopolization.
At least obsolescence. I feel most sorry for those kids becoming farmers now, where we had access to these older still semi viable machines where they most likely will not. They will be scratching their heads at unavailable hydraulics drives, outdated electronic control systems and lack of supply chains to make them functional for a seldom used but useful mechanism. I dare say the days of the old crawler Grandpa had sitting in the barn may be coming to a close.
Yeah im feeling it already lol and I'm only 35.
What would cause a 350 deere steer better when warm? Its a dry clutch machine.
Corruption in the clutches? Without operating and seeing what is doing leaves much to imagination. Does it have the hydraulic actuators? Work like hydraulic brakes.
Don't know for sure if it does. It's a 65 model so it's the first year they made the 350. If it does have them I think it should have a power steering pump on the motor. I believe the later b models and c models used the reverser to power those I believe. The undercarriage is supposed to be 70-80%. Supposed to get more pics later today. They want 6500 for it. It supposedly runs and works just steers better after it warms up.
Would not have a pump, just brake style master cylinders.
Ah ok. Is there something with these to look at?
Fluid if it has them, condition and level. As to the clutches when operated does it just stall out but engine revs stay up when attempt to turn? If that is the case the main clutch (if equipped)would be slipping and when hot enough sticks more. If torque converter can listen to hear if engine bogs or not down before working into a turn, then there may be bigger issues on either. Only spec sheet of value could find: http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/html/brochures/publication.html?id=352649e2#2 The ones I worked on had the reverser which essentially is a hydraulic coupler for F/R. If that is going bad and stalls cold will be a problem.
The engine doesn't change. I have a video of it but it won't let me post it. It's almost like the breaks aren't engaging. Has service manuals with it. It started in 28 degree weather. I have some pics of the undercarriage. It has power shift with the steering boost.
Tires look like they have some life left in them .
Yeah if can just figure the steering problem out.
I would discount the value of a 350 in favor of the 350C as it is a wet steering clutch machine. Dry clutches are subject to corrosion if not used frequently. As for the machine in your picture, reach up under the track near the top roller. How nearly round are the bushings? As tracks wear, they stretch. As sprockets wear, gullets become closer together. Soon a mismatch of pitch becomes a factor. Wear is slow at first, but accelerates as pitch mismatch gets worse. I've heard of replacing sprockets to reduce this phenomenon, experts don't recommend it. Wear of 50% might be at 80% of life of the track chains, and sprockets. As a wild estimate, that will vary, figure 2500 hours chain life.
I have a farm tractor that got contamination in the brake circuit with water. At temperatures below freezing, it was useless. If these are hydraulic actuated clutches it might be water. If not, there could be crud in the actual clutches holding water.
That 350 should have the same steering setup as my 350 loader--dry, manual clutches and brakes. "Steers better when warm" is rather open-ended. Does "warm" mean the engine warmed up? (that is, cold day, not moving until the engine is warm?) or does it mean the machine has been in use for awhile--where actual temperature of engine or other parts might not matter. What does "steer better" mean? Is more force required on the levers to steer it when cold? Or is it just sluggish? My guess is that there's moisture in the clutch housing. They get wet and rusted up and will sometimes lock up if too much moisture and rust. There's a small drain plug under the housing--first thing is to remove that and see if anything comes out. There's an access plate on top under the seat. It's held on with 4 bolts--easy enough to take off and see if there's moisture/rust in the mechanism there. That's also where you adjust the brake band and clutch throw-out. If there's moisture in there, it'll make the clutch plates slick and not want to work very well. Using it for awhile gets the clutches hot and dries them out so they work better. Second guess would be tight (as in sticking) rollers. That's not a big engine in there--anything not wanting to move when cold really saps the power. If something is tight or sticky it might loosen up some with use and let more power go to turning. Damp clutches would be more likely to affect both sides than sticking rollers. I'm really curious about the green showing through under the yellow paint. I s'pose some were painted green (I think the earlier Deere models, like the 1010, were often green)--but mine is definitely yellow on iron. Or, more commonly, rust. The tracks look to be in rather good shape and the machine looks like it has been cared for (seat's good, decals there, not beat-up). I'm presuming it's a diesel? Mine's the gas-burner variety, which starts in an instant regardless of the weather (yeah, I'll admit, I put a high-energy ignition system on it... ).
Would 6000 be too much for it? Is there any way to dry out the steering clutches or are they smoked once they get wet? I'm going to venture there is moisture in the clutches cause it sets out. Once the machine has operated for awhile it steers better. I haven't went to look at it yet but think I might.
Couple more pics of the 350
Could be any number of small issues to larger ones. You noted is equipped with reverser and supposed to have steering assist, either of these could end up expensive if the fault. Clutches and brakes if are an issue are not all that expensive parts wise but do require removal of the rails and side housing behind sprockets. Make him an offer where you think you can afford and will wok for your uses those and then IF you are willing to accept the machine may require a few thousand more if it fails in use. IF you buy it very first item on the agenda is ALL fluids and filters changes. Adjust all linkages to service manual then you have started on the road to antique care and maintenance. Don't expect failure proof.
Yeah I already figured on the fluids if I do get it. If it is just moisture in the clutches can they be dried out some how or does it need taken apart?
Heat from use about all you will find IF is moisture. I am not suspecting so much. Fully enclosed and inaccessible with rails on.
Seller says it will spin it's way to China lol. Says after pushing with it for some time the steering starts working. What oil needs to be used in the steering boost ?
Will have to check the manual for that. You buy it get a manual as will need it.
The seller has the manuals already which is really nice.
That will be a start. Being as will steer great after running look to steering boost system in manuals.
Every oil except for the engine oil will be Hytrans. Or your generic 303 type oil.
I wouldn't think someone would use a heavy oil in the steering boost. I'm not sure how that system works but will know more when I get a chance to look at it. It will be maybe next weekend as this weekend we will be laying my dad to rest. I miss him already.
Sorry to hear about your dads death.
John, I'm very sorry about your dad--I went through that a few years ago and it's never easy. I did some digging in my parts manual which covers that JD 350 dozer. I had been somewhat mistaken--I didn't think that early of a 350 had an option for power-assisted steering, I thought it was the very late 350s. The power-assisted steering runs off the reverser pump (as was stated) and is controlled by a spool valve actuated by the steering levers. As far as I can tell, the hydraulic lines go to a quill that assists the steering clutch release. The moisture I was referring to above is still relevant--the steering clutches are dry and in a housing just behind the final drive. They are notorious for getting damp and rusty--the recommendation is to run it around at least once a month. As long as they are free (they are) and still have friction enough to drive the tracks (they do), then that's really not a problem. It's just something to be aware of. It's quite easy for these little 350s to spin the tracks and dig a hole (depending on the ground conditions!)--they are quite light. That's why I prefer a loader when clearing trees--put the bucket aways up on the trunk. It forms a lever that puts down-force on the tracks and improves the traction. Even though my 350 has almost no cleats left, I can still stall it on a too-big tree. After looking through the parts assemblies, I tend to think the slow cold response is due to the hydraulic steering assist. This could be any number of problems--wrong fluid in the reverser (too viscous when cold), clogged reverser filter, plugged return line from the clutch quill (a constricted line will be more "open" when the oil is hot and less viscous). I couldn't find my service manual at hand, or I'd have a bit more info on the operational details. Is it worth it? That depends--would it meet your needs? It's getting hard to find small dozers like that in reasonable shape. If it was here, and I had the extra cash, I'd seriously consider it for some work I need to do. But--it's not a bargain. You probably won't find a good bargain in a small dozer with a 6-way. The demand far outstrips the supply, so it will always be a seller's market. I'd been trying to find a good deal on one for years and gave up to buy a Cat 955K loader. Be very circumspect. Crawl under the machine and look at every bolt. Look at every leak (and there are several in the photos). Look at and smell the fluids. These machines are easy to work on (they aren't a D6 or D9!). I hear parts are becoming scarce--but I've never had a problem getting parts (JD made a LOT of the 350s and they used the same parts for years). Scrapyard parts are readily available. I'd suggest going over to jdcrawlers.com and looking around there for more info on the 350. Zimmerman's in Missouri (crawlerbulldozer.com) has an incredible inventory of used parts. I suspect they could build more than one 350 just from their parts inventory. I don't doubt there are similar yards near you.
Thanks for your condolences and this info. I'm certain it's something simple. Most time that's where you start anyway. I'm pretty certain that I'll buy it if it's not sold by next weekend. I told the seller what is going on but that I was definitely interested in the dozer. Will see what happens.
Look on Huntington Craigslist, there is a D21 Komatsu.
Sadly it's out of my budget. There was one of those at the beginning of the year for 10500. Can't tell much about the undercarriage but with the hrs it has on it the undercarriage could be in bad shape.
Undercarriage is like tires. A 100,000 mile automobile might have good tires or bad. When were they replaced. The seller could lie. A tractor with 2000 hours, check. Has undercarriage, or part of it been replaced? Older, we don't know without measuring.