Hey y'all, I'm just now getting into excavation work, and I'm looking for a tandem dump truck for hauling dirt. I’m just looking for a good starter truck. I care more about the engine and a truck that is more easily repaired (more available parts, less electronics, etc.) than the age/looks of it. I'd like a truck that would be hard to beat into the dirt. My father-in-law is the best diesel mechanic around though (I got his opinion on this as well), but I like to work on stuff myself. I'm in central MS and know little to nothing about dump trucks. I'd prefer an older machine that's under $15k or so that I can learn the ropes and work my way into an additional nicer truck if needed. But I wouldn't mind keeping this truck around the farm. I've read Cummins M11 engine is the way to go from what I've read, but there is a LOT of information to take in on everything, and I'm new to the hauling world. Do y’all know of anything or does anyone have anything? If not what make, model, age truck should I be looking for? Willing to take any knowledge as well.
Hello and welcome to the HEF. $15k doesn’t go very far in 2024, but Big Red will get the job done with a little left over.
International 4900 with Dt466. Do you have CDL? Old Municipal trucks purchased at auction. What do you have to load dirt into it? That will determine how tall a dump box sides need to be.
There is this tandem truck, it is an older one.
There are no running and driving tandem dump trucks, in my area, under $15,000. You can find one that needs engine/trans, rear end work, for 15, but a more realistic number would be 20-25k in my area.
owner retiring - heavy equipment - by owner - sale - craigslist 1981 Mack 686- endt 673 @300 hp rto 14618 Mack rears on Hend ext leaf 11.24.5 on alum whls, 315s on 9.00 inch alum whls, 15 ft box plumbed for pup, engin1965e brake15,000 also 1983 Eagle equiptment... spokane.craigslist.org
Forget finding something in the midwest--everything there is {Higher than a Cats ass in a 100' tree}.
International Dump Truck - heavy equipment - by owner - sale - craigslist International Dump Truck, 10 Yarder, EX County Truck, pretty tight, no leaks. Not a powerhouse but dependable. Excellent for on sight hauling but is road worthy. Price $12,500 Call spokane.craigslist.org
I'm going to be the odd one of the bunch. Just because it's old don't mean there's parts go try to find cab parts for a l9000.
Yes there are ones to stay away from.
I just upgraded to a tandem this spring, $20K is about the bottom dollar for anything halfway decent. I picked up a 1997 Ford LT9000 tandem, 485K on the clock, L10, 9spd, walking tandems, full lockers, floats on the front, gave $21K. It's setup like I wanted and I looked for a long time, on an off for a couple years. For me a clean, rust free, not abused truck with the features I wanted was more important than the mileage/hours/wear. I will eventually go through the engine, transmission, etc as needed, but for now its out making me money. In fact, the jobs I've done with it this year have already more than paid for it.
I'll also add, if you are going to make a cheaper truck pay, you must be able to do virtually all the work on it yourself, and have the tools and facilities to do so. Most big truck shops have zero interest in helping a guy like me, and if they do they charge out the *** AND it takes months to get anything done. Just my personal experience, YMMV.
Welcome to the Forums KG! Glad to have you, I'm not far to east in Central AL. Couple of questions first of all - What kind of excavation business? Residential, commercial, landscaping, farm? What equipment do you currently have or plan on acquiring? Do you want to get into hauling for other contractors/owners or just for your projects? Just my $.035 adjusted for massive inflation - If you don't know much at all about dump trucks buying a $15k tandem is going to be a baptism by fire. Funny thing is I won a $15K L9000 tandem dump with L10 and auto trans on a Govdeals online auction. IIRC it was 4-5 years ago. The truck was located in Northeast AL owned by a small municipality. Minimum bid was $15K so I threw my hat in. Couple weeks later I get the email that I'm the high bidder. To be honest I had forgotten about it. Here's a link - https://www.govdeals.com/dump-trucks Fast forward to today and that truck has earned way more than it's purchase price. Of course inflation has driven those $15-20K older useable trucks much higher, how much higher depends on location. As others have said the Ford parts - cab, some engine bay components and the like are difficult to very difficult to find. Best of luck and keep us posted.
$20,000 for the Mack and trailer that truckshop posted is the golden ticket. It looks like a clean old truck. That's a $8-10,000 trailer here.
One hellavu road trip back to MS.
There's about five like that spread around the northwest on CL. But past the Rockies and the tune changes. Plus the big factor {Mid West Rust}, paying allot for rust.
Tho I still have a soft spot for the ltls
I'm not too worried (yet) about the parts situation for these Louisville series Fords. There were so many made there are still tons of them around and many of the cab parts can be adapted from other models to be made to work. Worst case you may have to fab or modify something to make it work. Heck, look at Cuba....
Thanks for the reply and help! I was looking on Facebook Marketplace, and that is where I came up with the $15k price tag. Guessing the ones below that price are junk? Mississippi is typically a place to find some well kept and low cost equipment though (in my personal experience anyway). I started out just purchasing a 5 ton mini-excavator for my farm, then my local rural water association needed an operator. Now I am getting calls from residential customers for odd and end tasks. I am loving it so far, and I would love to acquire a dozer, larger excavator, and dump truck in the near future to expand my possibilities on the farm and for other jobs. I have loved it so far, and it works out well with my current full time job where I have plenty of time for it as well. I am small scale with just tractors and a mini-excavator right now. Most of my hauling would be for myself to start with, but once I feel comfortable and get some experience, then I plan to haul for others as well. My main concern for sure (just like with my other equipment) is being able to find parts easily and a decent price, because every vehicle will need to be worked on. From my own personal research, it doesn't seem as easy as "just buy a 2008 International '74, and you will have very little problems." It's more of which engine, transmission, etc., and that's mainly what I am trying to get everyone's opinion on that has the experience where I have none.
No CDL currently, but I have no problem acquiring one if needed. Just a 5 ton mini-excavator right now. Am looking at acquiring a larger excavator in the future though. Makes sense though on determining how tall the sides need to be. Thanks!
Well if your reading my posts and not jumping over to look at what contractors are posting, I'm a 52 year truck mechanic. That Mack is about as tried & true as it gets, the 673 was Macks mainstream bullet proof power plant, The gear box is a RTLO 14618 Eaton-tons of gears, Hendrickson walking beam probably 46,000 lb suspension, Mack rear drives, real tough. The front axle will be more than enough with those tires. Parts for this truck can easily be had.
Definitely what I am looking for. Heck of a trip to MS though ha. Going to see what I can figure out with it.
Nothing is ever close, only 2,600 miles which is 4 days at 650 miles a day--a 12.5 hr day. and 8 hamburgers.
You can find stuff close IF you have time on your side and live reasonably close to populated areas. I personally am not willing to drive more than 4-5hrs to buy used trucks/equipment. Being able to drive there and back in a day makes it easier to look at stuff in person and walk away when needed. That being said, sometimes I look for 2-3yrs before finding what I’m looking for.
I will say, most of the vocational trucks around here 1970s to 1990s vintage that are still on the road and working 8hrs a day are either Macks or L series Fords.
I am more worried in the vehicle I have never laid eyes on with an owner I have never met making the 2,600 mile trip back in good condition haha.
My biggest issue is definitely location. I am barely within 4 hours of a populated area.
Because those two were east coast popular. Yep the same goes on around here ---the two local dealers have been shooting fish in a barrel for years, buyers won't travel, those two used truck lots know it & just keep applying the salve.
Mack & Ford trucks were only popular with municipalities in the western states for years. Reason----no dealerships. Ford only had two authorized repair shops-Spokane/Seattle. No service no sales, Mack was the same, Boise was the closest for years
Yeah me too. I was a little concerned when I drove our L9000 the 100 mile trip back to our yard. Everything went fine but like you said I hoped in a truck we had no past on and took off. The insurance policy was the lowboy service we use has a nice Landoll to come pick it up which would have been $500-600. Imagine the bill to pick it up in Colorado.
Found this 1988 Mack 690FP in MS for $13k. He didn't give much detail other than Mack 300 engine, no AC (no problem for me), and is in good condition. Worth a look?
If you're going with a tandem dump, you need a truck with a dump box that is sloping down in the back, or your 5 ton mini will be sloppy on loading over the side unless you are up on the pile. I would suggest a big 5 yard dump truck with a big box. A tandem dump without a drop down axle is really a 10 yard dump truck. For sure you will need a CDL. You also will likely need a CDL class A to pull a full size excavator. For the tandem dump truck, your cost to register it may be expensive. In WA State it depends on the GVW you want it to be. My Big dump truck is registered at 78,000 GVW and it cost like $1500 a year. I pay Federal Heavy Highway tax which is like $400.00 a year. Insurance is also high. It's also expensive to maintain and big to park. Get an old big 5 yard municipal truck (mine will hold 7 yds of dirt) and license it for 25,900 so no CDL. All cost will be lower. See how the business does before you go big.
Washington is cheap for registration. In pa a 80000 pound (whatever the weight class is) is 2700 or so and here the heavy hiway tax is 600
Seems fitting for this thread. Buzz Martin RIP.
Shopping for dump trucks is like looking in glass case at the doughnut shop---Gee do I want that twisty looking thing or chocolate with sprinkles. People starting out----it's like the old guy pickup philosophy, {I just need a straight six & 4speed, that's all my dad had} then a year goes by and it's setting on a lot, they traded up for a 440 4x4, then a 5.9 with the smoke screw twisted. * A friends son started out with a GMC 3116, 5 yard. I told him then. A year later and X amount down the hole---I found him a W900 1991 425 Cat 13spd drop axle 46K rears on Hendrickson with a brand new Truck Weld box for 28K. He can pull all his stuff. end of story and all of them end the same way.
Dad did the same exact thing with trucks and trailers. Buy the biggest you can possibly get
If a tandem suits your needs and you can get a CDL, I agree just go with that to begin with. I've run a few different single axle medium duty dump trucks over the years. The only place they have a benefit is places a tandem axle physically can't fit, which is why I still keep one around. Where you are down south things are flat and more open there are probably very few places a tandem wouldn't work. I can haul 14-15 tons faster, easier, safer and more comfortably with my tandem than I can 6-8 tons on the single axle. My total cost for registration and insurance is around $2500/yr, which sounds like a lot, but you can make that back in just a few days of hauling.
As far as loading goes, I think my tandem has a 42" deep box with 8" sideboards, my 5-ton Kubota U48 loads it very easily, even the 3.5-ton mini ex I used to have would load it but it was more of a reach. With a 36" bucket on the U48 I can load it to capacity in 7 min and that's sitting on ground level, up on a pile a bit faster. Also both my Kubota SVL65 CTL and Case 1845C skid steer can load it without much trouble, but it helps to have a short lip bucket if you really want to heap it up. The 480E backhoe loads it with ease, plenty of reach on both the loader and hoe.
Found this 1980 Peterbuilt 359 with a 8v92t motor, 8ll trans, runs well, but it wont built adequate air pressure. It's for $13k like the 1988 Mack R690. I'll be looking at both this weekend. If I have the option, which one should I shoot for given identical pricing?
The 690 Mack, last thing anyone needs is a detroit, even if they think they do.
Everyone should own a Detroit 2 stroke once in their life. That said, I'm afraid truckshops recommendation is the right one, and that's going to guarantee you can hear whispers when you are 50. And deny you the thrill of a 92 at full song. Get the mack. Pull the sideboards if it's too tall.
I had 2 still got one ill check it off the bucket list
It's best if you buy a two stroke, because you can't afford anything else. Otherwise you have a Detroit just because you made a poor decision. Which changes your in brain conversations from " this was really stupid" to " I can't wait until I can afford something nicer"
Hold on a minute the 4 53 in my forklift is a great thing and it wasn't bad in the rt58 bit loud tho. Mostly loud the forklift has a muffler on the intake for crying out loud!
Afraid? My recommendations usually are correct, based on years & experienced repair. The best thing is denying the neighbors that awful noise in the mornings, scaring dogs, cats & any other critters roaming about. Plus that puddle of goo left behind at a customers property.
Daytons on the Mack don't thrill me, but assuming neither truck is air ride the Mack would be my choice. Air ride dump trucks suck. Based on years and experience waiting on them ......
Yes those do--there are just certain items that work well for sever use on or off road. It doesn't ride well but Hendrickson and other types of heavy duty suspensions do the job. It's a dump truck--people should expect it to ride a little rough, why air ride cabs and air seats were invented.
But the real question is- would you without hesitation- swap even over for the same machine, but with a different power plant? i.e. if there are two machines side by side, 4-53 or 6-53 vs. 4 bt 6bt, which one do you want? Because that's your real answer. I've bought the Detroit powered machines, because I couldn't afford anything nicer. But when the money is the same, the small cummins are much easier to live with on a day to day basis.
But when the end of civilization comes those old 2-strokers will still be running on about liquid that will burn. Me? I'm down to just a couple of -71's now. For some strange reason I'd like to put an aluminum 6-53 in a pickup. But I wouldn't consider one in any on-highway vehicle I needed to make money.
I love a Peterbilt, but a 359 is a highway truck. Poor visibility for getting around tight spots. Rivited cab Petes are not an off road truck. You can always take the wood side boards off the Mack. Loading a tandem with a mini does suck, but just don't round your bucket. When I see an R Mack, I think off road.
But they are great when changing a tire with hand tools, 5 or 6 nuts and the whole works is on the ground. If you don't drive very fast, the wobble isn't the end of the world.... I just did a set of budd's again the other day, and I'll take dayton's over that.
The little 4BT in my '98 Gradall forklift has never been into. IIRC we have replaced the starter and that's it. BTW bought it new and not real sure how many hours on it since the meter quit working a while back.
Too funny---Minnesota Mag Wheels-Dayton's good for off road, even years ago OTR's knew stud/pilot was the only way to glide on or off road. Not hard to change, simple really plus much easier to handle hub to change seal. * Detroit's----people even these days think those were cool. Take a 12V71 for instance------- 12 cylinders, weighs 3,300 average, in on highway max horse power 475 in last years of production as offered. Average hp was 430 hp. Average mile per gallon 3 to 3.4. Ate a gallon of 40wt on average of every 2,500 to 3,000 miles. * 8V71 max hp turbo charged 350. 8V92 max hp turbocharged 475, both engines at best 3.8 miles per gallon. Ate the same amount of oil. Lots of rotating parts to wear, with lousy engine brakes. First 8V92's were nothing but a punched out 8V71, same lower end rotating mass and basic block which was prone to break main caps, crack the block web and break cranks. Known as a Double OO which were green. By the time the 8V92 Silver had arrived the sour gut left in owners bellies with the Double OO the writing was on the wall for the Silver and the obsolete 2 Stroke. * Cummins/Cat in same years----6 cylinders, average weight for Cummins 855-2,800-Cat 3406 3,000. Average miles per gallon 4.5 to 5.5. Average hp 400. Both would eat on average 1 gallon of oil every 7,500 miles of 15x40. Six less cylinders with six less major rotating wear out points and valve train. One less camshaft, less gear train. Plus for heavy haul the cat could be equipped with a oil retarder & jakes=mass brake hp. Cummins was the killer though with the KTA 525, 575 & 600 hp engine-it was heavy at 3,100 but still 200 less than a 12V71. * So with that-----facts are running Detroit's just didn't pay well, the main reason allot of 2 strokes sold was because it was a cheap to produce power plant and a cheaper show room price of a new truck. * As far as Peterbilt---Peterbilt was originally built for logging by T.A. Petermen of Morton, Wa. First Peterbilt trucks in 1939. I don't know for sure how many logs the Peterbilts through time have hauled but-----it's a bunch. One of the very first below. *
Worked for a guy with a fleet of 359s, and 379s. All great highway trucks. He started to dip his toe into road building. Bought a few belly dumps. The 359s didn't like the twisting, and rough gravel roads. Things started to get lose, and break. That being said, we have a 567 I think? It seems to be holding up well
Trouble is how many miles on them before used as dumps. I've seen the same with every brand, X amount of cycling in frames and fatigue sets in. The only old trucks I've seen go allot of miles without frame issues were Western Stars, a typical Star frame is 100,000 lb tensile strength where most others are 80,000 lb which is standard. The other is the crossmembers used in a Star, round with a flanged end, real tough.
In that case the forklift it really don't matter as it runs about 5 minutes at a time and it's great to annoy the country side the crane yeah something else be great. Boss bought a s model with a **** spreader on it with a 6 71 it will do the job I drove it 100 miles home today... Thats enough 2 stroke truckin for this guy
Lots of two strokes in the oilfield, people always said they had the most power, which in the oilfield you need low end grunt, so they had jack for power. Cheap engines and good Allison automatics
Yes Cheap---Cheaper & Cheapest, it's all about the cheap. And one huge thing Cummins had over the cheap Detroit & expensive Cat--a jake that worked all because it was better timed with PT injection. Both the Detroit & Cat had lousy jakes.
But, muh three-fiddy-nine. They are way cooler than a single-stack Mack. Plus, your customers will appreciate & respect your great taste in 10-wheelers. I vote 359, every time.
I don't get the love of petes
Or anything with a yamaha & a slush box. Fiddy Cent.
I hate the clutch pedal and the following that some of the guys put forth.
Here is our work in progress….($9000) 1989 IH, nothing fancy but ultimately should suit our off site work well. Cummins L10 (285hp) pt pump, 8ll, walking beams, double frame, twin steering boxes. Rear ratio is 5.xx. 13 patches on box as hoping to get road ‘legal’ epoxy primer…hoping double frame is not too ‘rust jacked’ to pass cvi inspection…if so will just be strictly a site truck. Really hard to find a working/driving dump here for less than $20k…. 6 new drives still required! ‘Learned ’how to install Daytons!
Our 1964 Euclid C-6 (6-71) just had its annual start up on the mountain where it has (sadly) been residing for the last several years. The fuel is at least 8 years old and also contains a good amount of used engine oil! A few short shots of ether on a warm day (after spinning over a bit) and the old girl roars to life! Yes I have top quality earmuffs and the nearest neighbors are many km’s away! Torque? Not so impressive, but release the de-accelerator and the revs sure build fast! All of which are needed to push any dirt…
Because they are classy, and one of the last holdouts from fiberglass and plastic. I'm talkin something like this, not that cheap aerodynamic crap. Not sure if they are anymore, but not long ago they were hand built in the USA. They represent a time when truckers wore cowboy boots and ball hats, not sandals and towels on their heads. They drive like a dream, and anyone that says they are rough has never driven a real one.
Here was one little debbie snack hauler I drove. *
I miss T-603. Tangerine was her real name. Last I heard, She was parked in the oil patch. A victim of the NOSI fiasco.
And the weird exhaust and the front frame that looks like it will get ripped out when stuck
Old boss had one like that. It was a 1988. It had a vari shield on top of the bunk. Class of 88 on each side of the bunk
She's got the double tank straps. I remember they were bad for breaking.
I vote Mack, Western Star, KW, or International for any off pave operation. If the price is right, and it is in good shape, don't let air ride scare you away. There are lots of guys that run air ride in dump trucks. I agree it's not ideal traction wise, but there are plenty of them around. I've been around this for 30 years, and have never seen a straight truck on it's side, air ride or other wise. Drop your bags when you dump, and don't dump in a bad spot.
I always drop my pants to dump, and never around sticker bushes.
Well I had a dump turn over on a site a couple of years ago, not ours but a hired one. Actually the sub frame broke putting the box on the ground and the cab on a 45 degree angle. Had a lot of safety paperwork to do after that one...
For the OP air ride probably won't be a big deal, but air ride on a dump truck indicates that they are most likely a converted road tractor and not purpose built to be a dump truck. Chances are that 359 was not a dump truck originally and the Mack was - just a guess on that. When you are receiving trucks with a dozer and they all come in and dump and get gone, except that one dang air ride truck who has to dump his air and is stuck half the time and screws up the timing of the whole spread and now they are like a heard of sheep all arriving at the same time and screwing up production (enough prepositional phrases in a row?), it is frustrating. The other thing is they will de-weight one set of duals or another, the driver gives it fuel try to keep moving, then that dual grabs ahold and another grabs, and eventually an axle breaks. Or, they forget to dump the bags too many times and if they don't have a quick dump on the air suspension they blow a bag up. These are things to consider when looking at a purchase in my opinion.
Agree on the air ride. OP is in MS and my advice is also stay away from air ride. No serious dump truck outfit here has an air ride dump truck. The company we use has mostly T800, C15, walking beam tri-axles with OX demo beds.
I have never seen a load of rock/dirt that needs a cushion.
Road trucks often don't have low enough gears for the bush too
Don't get much dumpier than this. Plus no A/C to fuss with. *
You're missing the point. Air ride is not ideal. But many people use them without issue. Don't pass up a potentially good truck because of air ride. I would always choose camelback over balloon ride for a straight dumper, but if it came between a solid truck for a good price with 4 or 8 bags, and a smoking worn out truck with springs or rubber blocks, especially for a small one man business, I wouldn't be afraid of the bags.
I agree with you, but the OP should be aware of the drawbacks while making his decision.
Well said.
I've had a 1994 int 9400 for 13 years now. 4 spring 855 9 sp. Was a tanker hauler,I stretched it to put a 15 foot bed on. Kind of ugly but a really dependable truck. I had 11,000 in it when I put it together and just basic maintenance since, all the leaf springs which were probably worn out when I got it, brakes and rebuilt front axle besides a few u joints. 250,000 miles later it still runs strong at 700,000 miles. Blew it apart and painted it last winter and actually looks good now. I got it from a farmer that was upgrading to newer trucks. A mechanical 855 is about as basic as it gets. If you have the ability putting one together works great. Another option would be a tractor with a real short end dump. A few have gone that way around here.
I think you guys lost the OP a few pages back!
If so - his loss.
100%. I've driven converted tractors, and trucks that were purchased with air ride from the factory as a dump truck. Total different animal. All our tractors and dump trailers are air ride, and they handle different than a converted tractor. The 2 western stars we have that were converted, drove way better when they were tractors than they do with a box on.
Funny thread---I have the chance to buy a 1980 W900 with a running BC, 13spd and bad aluminum frame, but has a nice cab, grille the hood needs some attention. Plus I have the chance to buy a 1974 K100 long wheel base, was a cattle truck. Frame is in real nice shape with allot of extra rail, plus it has walking beam suspension {beam biscuit} on Rockwell SSHD drive axles 4.33 ratio. It wouldn't be too tough to combine the two and make one, either a dump or tractor, plenty of room for a drop axle. 3/8" rail.
We just finished doing that this spring. I purchased a rolling chassis 89 Pete with a good steel frame and put our cab/engine and trans in it from one we had with aluminum frame that was bad from rust jacking between the steel liner and the frame. It went pretty well as the wiring harnesses and air system were identical.
I would install a fresh built BC with a RTLO14613B, would make a nice dump---only one stack of coarse.
I am having to Google most of the information being thrown at this thread, but keep it up. I will have the best dump truck in MS before long with all this new found information! Might even be able to build one from scratch!
Besides looking at the right brand and the right engine, I would consider some of the little things that can make up the right set up, and save some money even if these are things you can install or fix yourself. Does it have a heavy duty hitch plate and pintle hitch? Does it have air or electric set up for trailer brakes? Will you have to install a new seat, or add just a seat cover? Does it have a load cover, like a pull tarp system? How bad are the air and hydraulic leaks? How are the tires? Even retreads and cheap tires add up on a tandem dump truck. I like LED Taillights, and LED back up lights. All the dash gauges work? I prefer a truck that was not a quick tractor conversion, like do you need fuel tanks on both sides? I also really like Allison Auto transmission for what I do. Here's my 2007 triaxle dump truck I'm going to be selling soon. Note: this is not in his price range.
Looks like we have a new spammer in town...
Yep
Well maybe instead of commenting on the spammer just hit the "Report" Button....
I did on one of his other post earlier today
Why the need to comment here then? The problem when members comment on a spammers post is it leaves orphan posts that don't have any context in the overall thread.
Sorry, didn't realize that's what the report button is for. Some of what he posted seemed real so I wasn't 100% sure he was a spammer.
Noted my apologies if I caused a headache
If you read them closely you can almost always tell they are AI generated crap. They will basically regurgitate all the info we've posted and make it sound like their own great advice. Their grammar will also be odd, sometimes too proper, sometime completely nonsensical.
Well hell, maybe I can get a job as an AI writer when I retire - I qualify for the nonsensical part!
Buddy of mine had exact same thing happen a month or so ago. Broke the frame like a tooth pick and laid the bed right on it's side.
I'm happy with my $8000cad. 1994 L9000 with an M11 especially now that I solved the loss of prime issue thanks to Truck Shop. It was a former plow truck but thankfully Alberta doesn't use a lot of salt on the roads. It's fairly heavy spec., double frame, dual steering boxes, 9 speed with 16K front axle and 40K rears on Hendrickson walking beams. It also has an air ride seat. I use it exclusively off road and sometimes on twisty uneven terrain. It's really nice not having to remember to dump the air bags or have big pucker factor driving over uneven terrain. I can't always dump on flat level ground but try to get as level as possible. It has good traction. I rarely need to lock the axles but have on a few occassions. The M11 is really easy on fuel too. I would have preferred an auto but the 9 speed isn't too intimidating. I think I would benefit greatly having an experienced driver teaching me how to shift gears. On another note I know a guy with a 1982 IHC 4200 he bought new with an 8V-71TA (turbo aftercooled). It's rated at 370 HP. It rode really rough with 46,000 rubber block suspension. Probably a big reason he can barely get around now. He liked the Detroit and would have bought another one. He bought a 9370(?) several years later with a Cat 3406 (B I think) 425 HP. He really likes the Cat engine too surprisingly. LoL
What is a nosi fiasco?
I wonder what that load of logs weighed?
140K plus .
It’s a sad tale of woe, misfortune and broken dreams, in the oil patch. Northern Oilfield Services was passed around by some big players, burnt down, and sold for pennies on the dollar. Breaking everyone that touched it.