hey there fellers , lost my first track -how do i get it back on?? Its an old pc200-6 with close to 20,000h.Its just a farm machine ,the tracks are quite good though.Was trying to squeeze past a stump -wont do that again. So any hints how to get it back on .Its still on the sprocket but off the inside of the idler I,m sure this question must have come up before but my searches didnt find anything . :beatsme thanks ---mat :notworthy
G,day Mate. You're right...there is a very good dumbies guide to the spat track somewhere here. It may have been posted by Atlas Rob...:beatsme I'm sure somebody will remember and help you our soon. I know how its done but I am yet to chuck one off.
There it is.. To release the pressure locate the grease fitting for adjusting the track and screw the whole fitting out (at least thats what my manual says). Then you can lever the idler back, or push it back with the bucket like Rob suggests.
As said remove the fitting and let out the grease, push the idler back slowly with the bucket. If you’re lucky enough to be on fairly hard ground, I usually prop up one side of the frame a few foot off the ground. I attach a short chain to the track, and pull any slack toward the idler end of the frame. Try and get the chain over the top of the idler first. When you get it on, refit the fitting, regrease to correct tension with the machine still lifted up. Finally mark the position of the idler to the frame when you have it tensioned. Key an eye of it’s position for a few hours in case the seal is now leaking, as the seals can go after not being disturbed for a long time.
Word of caution. Do not screw the fitting all the way out. If you turn the cartridge out about one turn the threads are slotted to allow grease to escape. danc is correct usually the exposed piston will rust up and when to collapse the track it will damage the seal.
to avoid damaging the seal can i pump the adjuster out a bit further and clean the rust of first ,before pushing it in?Or cant it be got to without pulling the whole thing off ? Thanks all for the kind advice
Even though you were trying to squeeze by a stump, I would be curious as to why the track came off. If it were me I would split the track pull the idler assembly out and put new seals in the track adjuster. If the piston is rusted price a new one or have that one re-chromed. Also as you probably already know most excavators where their undercarriage from the inside not outside. The bushing on the chain may look good but the pin is worn internally. The master pin on the track can be located by a dimple in the center of the pin.
It’s worth a shot cleaning the piston before you push it back in. When the track if off already you should be able to reach through easier, and clean up the piston, don’t expect much though if it’s very rough. You may get lucky, but remember you have to pull the track off again if it doesn’t work, and as Dressta1 said rechrome or replace the piston, and fit new seal. It all depends if your in a mucky place, you may want to just get it back together to get the machine mobile for now, and move the machine to somewhere where the ground is better for working on, and take the track off again to fix the seal./piston if it’s now leaking. You should not have to split the track. How far the idler sits outward on the slot at the end of the frame will tell you how much wear is on the track chains, ( providing a link hasn’t been taken out)
yep ,you were right there was another reason the track came off .The idler wheel has come adrift and has pushed right back and is touching the yolk ( . I guess they must have a pin through the middle as an axle and it must have sheared at both ends.:beatsme looks like I will have to pull the whole idler assembly out .What holds them in ? Does anyone know if a workshop Manuel for Komatsu PC200-6 is available online?:bash thanks everyone---mat:notworthy
Everything should just slide right out when the tracks out of the way, and the idler will probably be bolted to the track adjuster, but I have seen them seperate from the adjuster just butted up to it:beatsme Just remember which side is which on the adjuster/ new idler so you don't put it back in upside down, or it probably won't slide in all the way.
Probably obvious but you should inspect the opposite side as well. It may save you some aggrevation in the future. It is a very simpe procedure. Split the track. I like to raise the machine and put a small block of wood under the track frame to raise that side off the gound a couple inch's You want your idler off the ground. Put a lifting devise on the idler assembly and it will pull out. Your recoil spring will contain your piston and track adjuster seal. I am trying to find a break down but all I have are training manuals and they do not show undercarriage.
I have had this happen twice. It is an easy fix. If the Komatsu is like my other machines, nothing holds that in, it will slide right out once you get the track off. Put a chain around the idler and pull it out with the machine. The yoke, idler wheel and the big spring with the grease fitting and piston should all come out in one big piece. First, find a dismantled machine on machinerytrader and get a price for the entire assembly. You want the Yoke, Idler wheel, and track tensioner with the spring all together in one piece. YOU DO NOT WANT TO GET INVOLVED WITH TRYING TO SPERATE THE SPRING FROM THE YOKE. The tension on that spring will kill you. The used unit should run you $800+shipping for the entire deal. Then you simply slide out the old and slide in the new, and put the track back on.