We have some 33mm lug nuts, on M22 studs, starting to loosen up. We used to put lug nuts on dry, and we always torqued everything to 500 ft/lbs. Hearing others opinions online and locally, I'm going to implement the following procedure in the shop: Clean studs before taking off lug nuts Clean full length of studs after lug nuts are off Anti-seize on studs Oil between nut and washer of lug nut Clean between drum and wheels Impact lug nuts on in star pattern Torque to 500 ft/lbs What's the consensus on putting anti-seize on the studs? I see a lot of people are against it on automotive due to it stretching studs from over torquing, but I haven't seen anything about it on M22 studs. All the old timers locally say they use anti-seize with no problems.
Unless there was something in a service manual mandating it I personally wouldn’t use anti-seize but rather dose the hardware in 10-weight hydraulic oil and let the excess drain afterwards. Where did the 500 ft lbs of torque figure come from and can you be certain that it is appropriate for your circumstances.?
Since my start in the industry everyone has always told me 500 ft/lbs, and the lug nuts themselves have 450-500 ft/lbs stamped on them.
The answer to the old question “why do you do it this way.? Well that’s the way we’ve always done it.” Wrong answer IMHO There can also be a wide variation in recommended torque depending upon whether some form of lubrication of the threads is required or not. Personally I would be looking for confirmation of that from a service manual or similar document specific to the truck model line in question, along with the answer to the question “lubricated (with what specifically) or not.?” but that’s just my 2c. YMMV.
No anti-seize on hub pilot studs. We had a bout of wheels coming loose, started banging them on with the 1" air gun and troubles went away. FWIW, we were torquing with a torque wrench, and checking after 100 miles. Nuts are installed with very little light oil.
Oil between the nut/washer and then on the stud as well?
Hunter013, I think if you did all that, the anti-seize would be unnecessary. 500lbs/ft with anti-seize might be over-tightening and stretching the studs. Maybe, back off to 450lbs/ft. Or, just a drop of oil if the threads are rusty. Are you dealing with rust-belt corrosion issues? The only time I use anti-seize is on the coast, where it’s mostly gravel, low speed, low miles and the tires rot before they wear out. When you finally take a wheel off, the nuts are stuck.
Coaldust said it best, but a little oil on the threads of the stud before screwing the nut on. Anti-seize and 500 ft lbs will be too much.
Industry standard--Hub pilot nuts, oil between washer and nut, one drop on first two threads 450 lb ft. Stud Pilot torque is listed below. Using anti-seize is not recommended because of excessive tread/ stud stretch caused by less friction creating a over torque. But I use a gun. * https://cbsparts.ca/admin/bulletins/Tech Spec Rec Nut Torque.pdf
Now--because it was common for tires being changed throughout the day everyday at the shop, I sprayed the lugs before removing with just WD40. And put right back on. Wheel mounting areas were precleaned when tires were mounted, quick wire brush on hub tangs, on it went with a gun.
I have a bunch of cans of something called Luboil, made by Conklin. They're from the 90s, little metal can with a spout, works great for wheel studs. It's just thick enough to stick pretty well. Wire brush the studs before turning off, few drops before putting on. About 5-6 ugga-duggas with the 1", and no loose wheels.
Argh, I hate anti seize. Hate the stuff on my hands. In the automotive side of things anti-sieze is a top favorite of the wannabe mechanic crowd. Every time they attempt to work on their car with crescent wrenches and such, they slather everything in anti seize as they put it back together . . .
WD40 has been my go to for this application for years. For proper torque value there does need to be a lubricant film between nut and washer to overcome friction, same with the lug threads, but in both, very lightly, just enough to negate friction during lug nut installation. And WD40 is excellent for this as it isn't a heavy lubricant that hangs around forever like Anti-seize or even oil. It assists with installation of lug nuts, then in short order it degrades. As for anti-seize, smear a bit of it with your finger around the hub pilot surface where the wheel meets the hub, especially if you have aluminum wheels on steel hubs.
Shade tree micrometer. Although when pressing walking beam bushings it takes a lot, and sometimes that ain't enough.
Once knew a women that was so mean she could chew the lug nuts off a steer axle. Zelda--Axe Handle Zelda, her butt was a axe handle wide.
The stuff certainly has its applications, sensors in exhaust components for sure, but not where most guys like to slather it . . .
I generally like to use the anti sieze spray. It doesn’t go on thick and keeps most everything from rusting. Then I don’t get it all over me and my clothes. It doesn’t seem to build up like regular anti sieze.
If using anti-seize makes me a wannabe mechanic then so be it. I've been repairing and maintaining my fleet of trucks, farm and construction equipment for the past 20+ years and with the terrible amount of salt they use here anti-seize can be a godsend.
Anytime- Holset or Bendix models of air compressors are rebuilt it is always wise to use anti-seize on every threaded part. Head bolts on a Holset SS model are only 5/16 and known to lock solid. Another place is thermostat housing bolts on any 3406A through C15. Water pump bolts 855's. Starter bolts in all 14/15L's. Anytime a bolt is threaded into a aluminum piece.
Bolts that hold belly pans on dozers and excavators always get never seize. If there was some kind of never seize for my back, knees, shoulders, hips, toe joint, ect. I would slather that on non stop.
If you are using it in aluminium make sure it says on the label that it is aluminium compatible or it can have the opposite effect. Something I learned from a mechanic that did a lot of marine work, the paste that is used for copper to aluminium electrical connections makes a very good anti seize compound for aluminium.
So, what hasn't been mentioned on the anti-seize topic is types. Steel bolts, steel housing, should really only use nickle-based. Copper is ok, shouldn't use aluminum. Aluminum is technically ok in any aluminum housing, but nickle is pretty much good everywhere.
81343 all around use including marine.
About any time I thread a fastener into an aluminum cargo tank. Especially, these sump studs.
I don’t bother with anything but nickel anymore. It’s the only kind I use. I have used a lot of copper in the past and while it works well, the nickel always did better with heat.