I had Lucas CAV pump with the throttle shaft leak which I fixed yesterday. When cleaned up and took my throttle linkage apart I could see it was severly worn. ( It never returned to idle like it should) On reassembly after the o-ring replacements I could not make the linkage work right. I cannot get the clock wise leg on the torsion spring to catch anywhere as it is worn right off. Can someone tell me if the worn off leg is supposed to be long (high) enough to catch both levers or does it only catch in the bottom lever. I don't understand how this two lever system is supposed to work or what it does. Maybe someone can explain. Is there any chance I can find a shop that has this spring or linkage assembly or do I have to try and rebend it somehow. Thanks This is what I have one layer at a time. EDIT: Photos are out of order. They go 3, 1, 2 instead of 1, 2, 3 :notworthy gg
The spring grabs BOTH SIDES of the lever.. You MIGHT find a local fuel shop that will give you a used one..??? The pieces come as a "KIT" and are not sold individually.. BUT, I know a guy who just happens to save all the old pieces when he replaces a lever.. and if you were to say, click on "this guys" name and send him your address, via PM, he'll probably send you one.. The whole lever assembly costs about 75.00, I think.. IF your going to go the "local" route.. take the whole assembly with you.. and ask them to put it together for you.. They can do in seconds, what would take you 15 minutes.. fighting the spring.. {there's a trick to it**
Many thanks. PM on the way
Well many thanks to ThePumpGuy. I received a new spring from him yesterday. I put some bronze in the sloppy out of round holes and reassembled the levers. It realy works different now that it is tightened up and with the new spring that isn't broke. But now it runs on the fast side so I guess I need to get a tach and adjust the stops. Hopefully that is all it needs.
NO problem my friend.. that's why we're here.. The Max RPM is stamped on the name plate on the side of the pump.. it will be the last set of #'s on the bottom line.. Should look like> 61-1100-4-2400.. the first # is fuel delivery,61mm3, the second # is at what rpm that full is measured, the third # is the spring code and the fourth # is max governor RPM.. IF your sure you have the spring hooked back up correctly, you shouldn't have to adjust the speed very much.. Usually, if you put it to idle.. that will tell a lot.. if its hooked Incorrectly, it will race about 500 rpms higher OR wont idle at all.. a slight turn of the screws 1 turn on either idle or max should get you where you need to be.. if not, its off with the cover again to double check your work.. OH, ANOTHER THING TO CHECK.. it's sometimes difficult to align the throttle "cut-out" with the shaft.. you may have missed it.. check that first.. If you send me the CODE, I can tell you the correct position of the spring ..
The code off the pump is : 53 - 800 - 3 - 2725 The spring should be in the top of the tomb stone and the third hole in the shaft link (hole closest to the shaft or most stretched spring). That is what I tried to do and hopefully that is right. The reason it runs fast now is that who ever set it up last (or maybe monkeyed with it when the lever spring broke ???) did not have the rectangular shaft seated in the retangular hole in the lever. You can see if you look close in one of the pictures above that the shaft is not in the hole properly. They had the nut tightened down tight enough to hold the lever in a more CCW position. So when I reassembled with the lever in it's proper position it was like advancing the throttle position relative to where the stops were set. I don't know if this was on purpose and I will find out why or if it was accidental and I just need to move the stops. So it would be really helpful if you could confirm those governor spring positions before I go further. Thanks a million for the help. This is just before reassembly. The kill lever works fine. That was the hardest part. It took me three tries before I had it lined up right. Couldn't really feel it until the cover was on and the castle nuts partially tightened. gg
You are correct on the spring position.. BUT, you have to make sure the piece with the holes on it[throttle ] ends-up inside the spring and NOT outside. and GOOD FIND on the lever to shaft position.. cant count how many times I've seen that.. Looks like your set..
THANKS G-man!!!! A VERY unexpected gift showed up on my door step yesterday.. Some of the finest Vermont Maple Syrup I've EVER TASTED.!!!! Its pancakes for breakfast and ice cream for dinner, just so I can use it.. Thanks again.. TPG
thepumpguysc - THANK YOU so much for the tip on making sure the arm is inside the spring !! I had replaced the throttle shaft seals on my tractor and upon reassembly it wouldn't idle correctly as I had the shaft outside the spring. Rectified that issue and the idle problem is solved. I have looked at who knows how many webpages trying to find out what I had done wrong and you are the only person who imparted this wisdom !
I've done 1 or 2 in my day.. Lol.. more like 10 or 20 Thousand!!! Your welcome.. tell your friends..