Due for some routine service, our 580SK had five cylinders in for leak solving with kits on hand. We had a problem right at the end with the clam cylinders' and the genuine kit's piston seal was swollen over size and couldn't be kept in the lands for assembly also I didn't have a compressor which might have been required. Had to revert to the old rings from the bin, still fair condition but disappointing that the genuine ones would not fit and were disfigured when I tried to load them. All the aftermarket kits were cheap by comparison and fitted perfectly in other posts / later. The rings appear to be metallised / sintered? More steps before to follow in pictorial and I am on the home straight of a 1,038Hr full service to our 1150D elsewhere here, soon.
o rings in the freezer for hour get em to shrink & keep em cool. Nice fab up on glad wrench
Yo, thanks yes for the tip on rings, too late now and it was hot when I pushed through this, so that wouldn't have helped at all, maybe also they were six years old, could that matter? The gland tool is for the 1¾" shafts and have another for the larger 2¼" which gets all the cylinders apart from the curl, which is easy with a generic fork tool. I turned them from scrap in the workshop and they don't harm the piston shaft or bell out the face sockets in the gland, also can take a fair lever or tap or two to crack a stuck thread / seal.
Ha, you can see they have been delicately cheated on. lol
Yo, never afraid to put some more 'reach' on there, I not younger that I was ! Actually the handles are mild steel, oval boiler tubes and as you say only provide something for the cheat, most cylinders are pretty simple, some mild heat maybe and hammer over the thread if I must, most open with out a 'cheat' though. Put plenty of grease on the outer seal / backup and the thread, makes life easier.
First of the set, was the extender, thought I work from difficult to simpler (theory anyway), next was the stabilisers eek: a mess in there packed with dirt to the top, poor old cylinder and gland, why the column is open at the foot surprised me) and last was the hoist clam). The extender is interesting to solve, comes out fairly easily, hoses were sad so they were replaced, lots of leaked oil in there, one spacer shim was loose and required repair, shaft was bent (when aren't they), otherwise the cylinder was in good condition and out working today !. Seal kits from Reliable were excellent. This was 14MM peaked and straightened quite well. Custom sockets for our CASE work, where 3/4" drive won't cut it and the top one is specially made for our "Adelaide Hydraulics" aftermarket "BD10 / Fiat Allis ripper. Shafts are 1 9/32' - 32.5MM HT plain bar.
O rings age shouldn't matter good to use good to freeze. Nice project & learning wash the windows after stick the hose in the outriggers,open like that sounds like job security packing dirt around cylinder asking for broken fitting & wear
Yo, the rings were old stock (6yrs old actually piston rings G102288) and they fitted over without having to use the expander (kinked cut) which I haven't seen before. If I had a compressor, they might have worked? Just on the bench here, those rings are 76.31MM ID but the surfer lists them as 71.77MM? No problems with seal and backup rings, plenty of grease, gets them done. This, is the inside of the lift column, all over the cylinder, oh dear, historic dirt. My my, hey hey > neglect, should have gone here years ago. Next; All better !
Part of the same set of stabiliser cylinders, clean and reseal with AM Reliable Seal Kits, some shaft straightening, special socket to torque the retaining bolt with thread-lock.
Oops, oil leak in the extender rebuilding the stabiliser feet. O-Ring outside the nipple, fit a new one and the loss of seven litres of oil in 44 hours goes away, bit of a task to get to the cylinder in the extender and there was a funny incident I didn't photo, but the boss said "yes I heard and saw that so, stayed indoors". Pressing the distortion out of the feet broke the old jack in our press (it split the lower 1/3 of the cylinder) although 40 years old and this one works so easily compared to the small piston original. Had to restore these feet before they became too weak to weld and I am surprised how abrasive life on bedrock is for these, we have some slate, quartz, flint and a blue sandstone. Had to add 15MM on the inside and 12 MM outer wear build up, only have low hydrogen stick, must finish them today with a seal plate over the column port to keep the dirt back a little, if it works?
Make the foot more ridged with the socket if would stress the tower? Swinging everything on that side.Dad had a JD 315a & Ford,** others bottom outriggers had pin pull make a wider foot print why he bought A over a B all hoes up date all switch to same vertical stabilizers cheaper?? Rare to find a Deere or Cat in the states with offset JCB doesn't offer a model here
We would stop to talk to guy but a jerk he had Ferguson 30 offset everything between your legs riding the swing thrower a mess but neat.
Shouldn't as the 'footprint' is still the same area and size as original, however I have noticed that the feet have cut into the corners of the slider which supports the machine in each rear corner tower, so they will have to come out and have some restorative welding to stem the cracks that are forming. Yo, would be right, this machine is EU make and nearly all here are side shift. There is merit to both, with side shift I can stand next to a structure and work, but it probably won't be as stable or monitor how the machine is sinking compared to the centre mount 'hoe.
Offset was common 50yrs ago it was a extra same as digmor & 4/1 for hourly hire. Hoes had manual pin to pull slide out outrigger if needed a wider base
It was the shoe gave a wider foot print
For an initially unknown reason the parking brake alert buzzer went silent late last week. Wrongly assuming that the contact switch in the cabin handle would be the culprit, I removed the glove box, D.C. isolator switch (my mod), fibreglass firewall console, but not the steering wheel. Quick check with the multimeter confirmed that both terminals had continuity to frame when closed and, it was then that I recalled a 3 cable line underneath in the clutch and brake interlock that had lost its lock barbs. Sure enough, it seperated completely once I touched it on the RHS loom along the Hydraulic tank / front of the transaxle. Anyway it turned into a bit of a saga, the mat came up and so did the front floor panel and I noticed the D141049 parking brake boot was an old problem that had the new part in stock here to seal it. So that is on for tomorrow, had a migraine start when under the machine, so gave up for the day. This is the park brake switch, open circuit when the brake is fully off. This is the 3x connector which has lost its lock catch, now cleaned, some vaseline on the pins and small cable tie between the cables over each end.
Never heard of using Vaseline? Hopefully it’s non conductive?
Yes it will only keep oxygen out of the way and I have used it on communications' cables for years on towers' as it keeps the connection free of oxidation, or like new and it has long term composition stability. Vaseline - "Snow White Petrolatum,", oil workers' found it accumulating on plumbing and that it helped heal sores!
Dielectric grease over Vaseline the sent additives can carry voltage but coming home from the pub yes Vaseline for work yes work I'll got you .
Working through a slew of routine tasks and accrued problems, a couple I'd need help with here. Quite a bit of dismantling to reach the D141049 park brake actuator, simple enough once reaching in from the top through the floor panel. I'm transferring to Donaldson filtration, now we have a local dealer, very high quality products, so am working my CASE stock filters through without fluid change, rather than tip them. Jobs, change D141049 boot, repair wiring loom connector in the park brake and clutch interlock, break and clean as many loom connectors (and make) after some Vaseline on the pins (one had minor assembly dirt in it), Hydraulic filter - bit messy but done, pump grease through primary and secondary propeller shafts uni joints, repair rodent damage on air intake rubber sealer, Oil filter swap out, Fuel filter swap out, repair cracks in steering tower moulded shells, clean cab floor, treat rust, clean transmission, clean engine area, radiator air clean, alternator air clean. Next to fix / solve, Transmission filter (not in stock ) buying in Donaldson, RHS epicyclic transmission on Carraro front axle has intermittent (1349265C1) main seal leak through annular groove to outer hub, King Pin kit due, Carraro driveshaft ?axle uni tractor joints, blade cutting edge detachment. Is this over cautious? Had a look at this last thing tonight and its worse than I first thought, the work has separated the skin behind the cutting edge, rock and soil are pressing in and levering the edge away from the blade body only on the LHS. I wasn't going to fix this but, it is time and I have a grader cutting edge I thought to get it cut down to 3" and replace this old cutting edge, even though its a bit thicker bar. My question is, how will trying to weld cutting edge steel to this with a stick welder work or, fail? How long can I expect these tractor joints / double uni's in the Carraro front axle assembly to last? Those uni's / spiders look very dry, thirty years old. Should I (when servicing the epicyclic / planetary transmission) dismantle the uni / spider joints and repack them with grease, or better still replace with new 84355357 uni's, what do others fix these with? I reckon they are dry and could do a lot of damage if they crack up (which they won't though). I notice some replacements have a grease nipple (zerk) but it must be impossible to reach in there?
Wow you're spoiling that hoe nice work. Rust por-15 is a paint/sealer to stops rust. U-joints if you can tread out the oem zerk they have extended zerks can use to grease & reinstall the oem. Prop the bucket is smart, wood will start popping count down faster popping faster you need to move away or rest loader bucket on a extra hoe bucket .
The way those u-joints are, you can’t even have a zerk fitting in them, or they will hit when they rotate. When I redid my Carraro axle, I ordered u-joints that were not supposed to have zerks but showed up with them. Due to time constraints, I made plugs for them and put good grease in the caps, before putting together. They are a PITA to replace. Next time, I will look for better u-joints that are non greasable, as the original ones lasted for 7000 hours.
The problem with greasable u-joints is getting just a small amount of dirt into it through the safety ball with a grease gun. It will most likely never come out and is grinding something inside. I worked a lot on Cat 980H loaders and all the u-joints were greaseless and still on the machine at 10000 hours. They dont get any particles of dirt into them so if they were installed with laboratory clean grease they just last. I have seen people put grease guns on nipples with 1/16 of inch of dirt on them and just start the pumping. No wonder the u-joint or pins and bushings wear out so fast. Simon C
Thanks, yes, this is Australian Hickory, very long grain, yet light when seasoned, it is actually an Acacia [Wattle], makes good handles and a fast / hot burner! Yes, thought that would be the case, although maybe one in the end of a cap might work? Oh yes, needle bearings [and similar] need critically clean conditions and maintenance easily slips to ignoring what is on the outside when the adaptor is plugged on then grit moves in!
Haven't been so well of late due to Winter germs since May but I made a commitment to clean my workshop today, degrease and tub all my trays of tools from a month or more of jobs, oil and put them away now I can think better, sort new parts so I am ready when underway again. Part of that is the Hydraulic filter, I carefully cut into it with our band saw and I respect what is an absolutely amazing technology, nothing obvious in the folds at the bottom despite the horror cylinder further up above in this thread ! Also our hoist / front bucket is part way through a restorative weld and I located some nice 1⁵/⁸" x 3" x 3/16" hardened washers (to shim up the curl pins) at a local engineering supply.
This looks like a good gland wrench setup. When you tighten the bolts holding the two halves together does it tension the pins and help keep them in the holes on the nut? I did my bucket tilt cylinder today with a universal hinged gland wrench. That nut points down at about a 45 degree angle and I was fighting gravity pretty hard trying to keep the pins engaged while I applied torque to break it free.
Yes thanks, I know exactly what you mean and keeping it all together and turning the gland is very difficult. I noticed when the 'C section' device (with two drive pins) fell out it tended to encourage the distortion of the pins and ovality in the gland sockets. Set me thinking, the more pins that are engaged and firmed into the gland would increase stability and to get this, the 'clamp' as described further above remains square on the piston shaft, yet doesn't score or gall the shaft itself and I found that for CASE, only two main sizes with three pin / peg positions fitted all thirteen cylinders on our SK hoe and 1150D crawler.