I recently had a 50 hour service on my new Kubota LX3310. The mobile mechanic came to my property to change engine oil, engine oil filter, transmission oil filters, and the hydraulic oil filter (this was part of the purchase agreement). I asked how to he would change the hydraulic oil filter (on the bottom of the transmission housing) without losing a lot of hydraulic fluid--since changing that fluid wasn't needed as of yet and the transmission holds about 4 gallons. He said, "Do you have a shop vacuum?" Of course I did. We taped a funnel on the end of the shop vac hose, I held the vacuum line with funnel in the fill port on the top of the transmission housing while he pulled the old filter and replace it. The vacuum didn't pick up any fluid but created a negative pressure in the transmission housing so no fluid came out when the old filter was removed and replaced on the bottom. He did pre-fill the new filter (and put a little fluid on the gasket) before installing. I thought this was a very clever technique. I'm wondering if others can share any tricks of the trade that helps facilitate tractor maintenance. Thought I would share this in case it's new info to someone.
Not new here, search for "suck bucket" here and you'll find plenty of info on that trick. Joe H
Bucket cylinder linkage pull the pin turn the eye 180 so the grease zerk is on inside & not get ripped off
Looks to be on the outside, in pick. Good idea but would have to look at it more. Not sure if I grub too many trees and rocks, it would be safer either way. My zerk is in the pins, recessed.
Look at the video, of a guy using a fork tines to hold snap rings pliers closed and factory hose clamps and you will steal a couple of forks from the kitchen. I did this and it worked great but bent the tines a little and while I straightened them out, I sucked at it. Of course, wife found it within a few days and I played stupid!
Just tell her it was caused by something she cooked!
Musta been a lightening strike ? Joe H
Great thread, years ago a friend told me for engine oil changes there was a suction system, if a hose could be fed to the bottom of the sump from the filler stem. The oil was extracted by a pump into a storage tank, no hot oil spilt on hands I suppose and the filter next; Job done. I guess I am over cautious but don't like oil leaks of any kind, dirty filters or discoloured oils, in the early days I did some aviation stuff (theory part) and the torque wrench was your friend or simply don't come to work the next day! That didn't continue for long as the farm required me but it left an indelible imprint on service, clean tools, tool room, welders, air, ppe [ear plugs and bi-focal protective lense glasses]. Ok too pedantic but I try not to work in dust here, due to silicon and choking up the filter, radiator and rarely recognised the alternator if it has an open frame, the field coils will overheat and short circuit also the diode pack and or regulator might fail. Mostly I give the tools a tub down in kero, then hot bath wash off with a caustic degreaser (Chemtech CT-14), this was after the dozer 1,000Hr service, oil the ratchets and detention springs and balls.
It looks like you could do surgery with those clean tools. A very good reminder for me to get my act together and do a better job organizing and keeping tools in good condition. Your post reminds me of a project I was on back in the late 1970's. I was with a trouble shooting group trying to figure out why so many International Harvesters were breaking down in the field. Those machines are running 24/7 during harvest. It turned out that a big issue was simply maintenance: rigorous zerk cleaning and shooting multiple times a day for main bearing areas that were running high heat/high stress. Operators weren't well trained. Machine and tool maintenance always tells the truth about the owner/mechanic.
I have use those oil vacs to suck the oil out of an engine. I would rather drain the oil. How do you know that you are getting the suction tube in the lowest spot? They do have a place in certain applications.
Most of my working years were in the field and I always left an oily sheen on all my hand tools. Most I did to clean things was use an oily rag. Corrosion was always a bigger worry that getting dirty hands.
I have an old parts washer that I run Diesel in, specifically for cleaning tools. Worst thing I hate, is to glove up for a job and get grease and oil all over the gloves. Weather is getting so warm, won’t be able to wear gloves anymore.
You are talking about nitrile gloves, rite? To me, these are like bags of water on my hands. The gloves slide around on the water...I hate that! Rather just wash my hands...LOL
I don’t mind my hands getting dirty, it’s part of the job but a lot of times, they add another layer of protection, depending on what I’m doing. Heaven forbid, I go near Never Sieze or a grease gun.
Absolutely Allan, couldn't agree more. We run a number of small [<250cc] Hondas' and they are very well made, especially the Japanese models, one I have [is actually Brazilian] has over 60,000km, all off road use, others are 40,000+ and have all received strict maintenance, the most specific, extreme use oil possible - Honda GN4, regular cleaning, corrosion protection, greasing and engine services. Yes and the cleaners' can be a problem, fossil fuels are great and I try to avoid inhaling or contact with them once I woke up years ago why, kerosene is the best cleaner but I leave it open as little as possible and the Nitrile gloves are great, except I go through boxes of them per year and they affect my finger nails, so have to be careful there.
Au have you tried liners under the nitrile?
look up e/vac, we have q/f nipple that are fitted via a hyd hose to filter and sump and refill via the filter line
Unfortunately, I was blessed/cursed either way large hands. I’m lucky enough to find Nitrile gloves that fit, never mind liners underneath but will actually give them a shot, as I like to wear gloves for certain situations. Most of the time, I believe if you are serious enough about lifting something big and heavy, no gloves ever, they cut down on hand strength!
The utility I retired from had 100% cotton liners for the rubber dielectric gloves. I have tried these liners. They kinda work. Actually, they work till they are soaked with sweat as well. LOL.
No, but like a mirror I'll "look into that."
Them windows are Richards wave say hi move on
Might be a tad conductive once saturated?
Chicken it's only hot once
The regular rubber or vinyl gloves make my hands sweat like crazy too. Try "flocked" lining rubber gloves. They help a lot. But I still only wear them if I'm working with really nasty chemicals, which is hardly ever.
The rubber gloves stay dielectric even if the liners are wet. Ideally, the user would change out the liners once saturated tho. It is amazing how some guys sweat soooo much while others do not, not at all. I have seen linemen that came in with FR shirts, and a couple hours later have to change them out because they are soaked. I have even seen guys put the wet shirt on the truck side mirrors and drive around like that to dry them, then put them back on in the afternoon because the 2nd shirt was saturated...crazy! The company I worked for had an incident whereby a lineman was burned because the current was conducted by the salt in his sweat. His stomach was badly burned. High voltage does crazy things for sure.
I still remember disconnecting my battery, to clear a code as I needed to get an inspection sticker later that day. Knowing I needed to drive it some, to pass the emmisions test. I was in a soaking wet tee shirt and learned first hand, you can get shocked by an automotive battery.
I don't actually sweat much at all - with the exception of when I have rubber gloves on my hands and it's hot out. They're just basically a sealed bag if they fit snug, and the sweat can't escape. And I generally don't find any that don't fit snug either. Size XXL gloves.