anyone have any experience rebuilding this cylinder? i bought the rebuild kit and have tried several configurations of the included seals but cannot get them to function looking at a big chunk of change for new cyclinders
forgot to mention... tractor is either a '90 or '91, i think rebuild kit is AGCO 1810748m91
I have a 50H, I rebuilt both cylinders and one is leaking again. They look like brake or clutch cyl off old Brit cars, Jags, MG, Healey all used these things. http://roadracingoverstock.com/girlingbrakemastercylinder-integral-1.aspx -- here's a whole page of pictures. https://www.google.com/search?q=gir...1OcP2oATh0ILoCQ&ved=0CFEQsAQ&biw=1536&bih=740 Mine have a second port that ties the 2 cylinders together but I blocked it as the fluid from the good one will **** out the leaker. When I get around to it I'm going to replace both with cheaper Girling cylinders. Lots of sellers and sometimes as low as $50 which beats ** price. Joe H
yes my cylinders are Girling also... so I guess that means someone had already replaced the originals... I tried to find a Girling replacement based on the numbers cast onto the cylinders but didn't have any luck. Mine also have the cross-over pipe linking the cylinders. New ** cylinders are around $600 ea from my dealer!!! Do you know if it is necessary to replace with crossover (my manual calls them "compensated" or "ccv") type cylinders or can i replace with non-linked cylinders like the one you show in the link? Also, there are quite a few Girling cylinders... Any idea how to correctly cross reference to ensure proper fit-up and function? Pretty sure your 50H uses the same cylinder as mine? Does the part# I gave look like yours? Do you have the Girling part #? Many Many Thanks!
I think Girling is the OE. Mine use the kit you linked to. The difference in the cylinders is the ID, think think 3/4" is what mine are but it's been awhile since I did them. You'll need to swap the push rod from yours probably although some do come with the same style. I have blocked off the crossover on mine, dropped a 1/8 ball bearing in the port and tightened the fitting. Works fine so do you need it? Who knows. For over $500 price difference I don't need it & will eventually get these cylinders. For now I just add fluid occasionally. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...roup=Compact Remote Reservoir Master Cylinder $52 here
here is a pic of mine. I should know the answer to this... but, There are two rubber seals.. one with a bearing in it... Does one of these seals and the bearing go in the cyl as the end of the piston assembly? Every diagram I've found shows the assembly without them, but it was in there when I disassembled mine and they were working (other than leaking) Now I can't get fluid to bleed down the lines.
Here is how it goes together. Pry the little flap in the spring retainer up enough to release spring & rod assembly from the piston. Slide the plastic piece back. Take the seal off & then the wavey washer. Put the new wave washer on, then the small seal and put the rod backnto the piston. Squeeze the retainer back down so rod is now secure in the piston. Should have replaced the piston seal while you had the rod out, sorry. The small seal at the end of the rod blocks off the supply from the reservoir so all the fluid goes to the brake rather than back into the reservoir. My kits didn't have those little seals with the ball, no clue what they are for. To make this work, the piston is pushing fluid, the little one at the end keeps the fluid going to the brakes rather than back to the reservoir. I've owned dozens of Brit cars with these cylinders and never seen anything like that ball seal. Jags, MGs, Healeys, none with that ball thingee in the cylinder. They are all like this diagram, no little ball gizmos. Joe H Send private mail if you want to phone me. Joe
Interesting! Those two little seals and ball bearing came from the AGCO rebuild kit, and the same were in there when I took it apart. BUT, none of my parts schematics show an additional seal or ball at the end of the rod, so I have to assume somebody must have assembled them incorrectly. So one big mystery is that they were working... Neither of the two seals in my photo are the one that goes on the end of the rod (the one you can see in the pic where I'm holding the spring back). I already put that one on and have the spring washer in... just have an extra. Also already put new seal on the steel piston body. I think I am correctly understanding the concept of how these should work, however with mine there is one problem. There is nothing inside the piston to hold the rod/seal assembly against the end of the cylinder when the brakes are pressed. I have a diagram that shows a different piston assembly (the one that in theory goes with the compensating 3-port cylinders we have) where there is another smaller spring inside the steel piston body which holds the rod/seal against the inlet port from the reservoir, but that is not what I have. So in other words, in the photo where I'm holding the spring back, there is nothing that prevents the rod with the seal on the end from retracting inside the piston body... so it can't seal the reservoir port of the cylinder. I'm thoroughly baffled.
ps... may as well leave this on here in case anyone else might find this helpful! And THANKS!!!
That's the way they work. The rod does move into the piston but it also moves the seal against the end of the cylinder to block fluid flow back into the reservoir. I have sealed hundreds of these cylinders over the years (Jag mechanic 30 years) and I've never seen that ball and cup that came in your kit. I thought the second seal in your picture was the one on the rod. So 2 mystery seals and a ball. You're baffled but you have it together right. Joe
Good news! I reassembled without any ball or additional seal and they work! And they're not even leaking! It was weird, at first fluid ran down and bled out the right side immediately but would not flow down to the left side at all. I pumped the brakes and drove it around for about 20 minutes with the left bleed screw open but it wouldn't flow down, but then after I'd parked it and was just about to shut it down it developed pressure and I had fluid at the left brake too... weird. Maybe the seal was blocking the res port and then just finally shifted or something? Now I just need to equalize the pedals (plus about a million other non-brake related things). Anyway, thanks again for your advice! I had been ready to give up and buy new ones. By the way, my manual does show a mc diagram with a ball and seal inside the compensating cylinder port that runs between the two cycl's.... but again, it clearly does not exist like that in my cylinders... FWIW